SimonSaysBrew
Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2013
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 5
Hi guys. I brewed this recipe back in late February 2014 and entered it in the Great AZ Homebrew Competition, category 14c. Double IPA. The competition was in late March. As always with IPAs and even more so with DIPAs freshness is a big component of the quality of the beer. So this beer peaked, fortunately for me, right at the time of the competition, about 4 weeks after brew day. I can’t take credit for the recipe as it was formulated and perfected over time by a good friend of mine from back east. The Wizard, as he calls it, scored a 45.5 on BJCP score sheets and was awarded a gold medal. It didn’t win best of show as another category actually scored a 46! I say, nice work to that brewer!
Here is the recipe:
Grains
American 2 row 14.5 lbs (82%)
Honey Malt 1 lb (5.6%)
Carapils .75 lbs (4.2%)
Amber Candi Sugar 1 lb (5.6%)
White Candi Sugar .5 lb (2.8%)
The Candi Sugar helps dry this beer out but the Carapils does the opposite. I know what you’re thinking, but it works. I was hesitant to use Carapils at first but the beer turned out beautifully balanced so give it a shot.
Hops
Amarillo 1oz first wort hop
Amarillo 1oz 70 minutes
Columbus 1oz 70 min
Citra 1.5oz 15 min (Add your kettle finings and yeast nutrient here)
Citra/Cascade 1oz 5 min
Centennial .5oz 5 min
Citra/Cascade 1oz 1 min
Centennial .5oz 1 min
Citra/Cascade 1oz Dry hop for 4 days at 68 F.
10 gallons of RO liqour treated with 2.5g of gypsum, 2.5g Epsom salt, 5g CaCl2 for the mash.
Mash in at 148-150 F for 60 min.. Shoot for a fairly thick mash.
Mash out at 165 F for 10 min
Sparge with 175 F liquor to capture approx 8 gallons of wort. Sparge liquor is RO water treated with lactic acid to achieve PH less than 6.0. This is important to avoid tannin extraction and harsh bitterness. Remember, it’s better to collect a little too much wort because all of those hops soak up a lot of wort.
In the kettle, add your first wort hops as soon as you start your run off from the lauter. After flame out, let the wort rest for about 10 mins, get a good whirlpool going and then let it rest for another 10 min. This should give you a nice “cone” in the middle of your kettle and make it pretty easy to run off and chill. I chill with a counterflow chiller so if you’re an immersion guy (or gal), you’ll have to figure out a way to keep the hops out of the fermenter but you’ve probably done that already. Some guys use a false bottom in their kettle to do this.
Stats
OG: 1.083 (pre boil 1.071)
FG: 1.016
SRM: 12
IBU: 108 (estimated)
ABV: 8.9 %
Brew house efficiency: 82-84%
Boil: 70 minutes
Fermentation
Yeast: WLP 090 San Diego Super Yeast. This is a high attenuator/high flocculator with a clean flavor profile. It’s a perfect yeast for IPAs. We forgot to make a starter (Doh!), so we pitched 2 vials of yeast into wort oxygenated with 90 seconds of pure O2 through a 2 micron stone. Oxygen is critical to making clean well attenuated beers. Get an oxygen stone. You want this beer to attenuate fully. We were shooting for FG 1.014 or less and we ended up around 1.016, maybe 1.015 by the time it was kegged. A starter probably would have gotten us there.
Pitched 2 vials at 70 F and set the temp controller to 63 F (beer temp).
At 24hrs raise temp to 65 F.
At 48hrs raise temp to 67 F.
At 72hrs raise temp to 68-70 F and leave it there until FG.
Dry Hop
I have a 7.5 gallon conical fermenter that I rigged to be temperature controlled. If you have a dry hop procedure that works for you then you should get as good as or better results than I do. Anyway here is my process.
Once I reach FG I turn the temp down to around 58 F and let it sit for a day. The goal is to drop as much yeast as possible. You can go lower if you want but 58 F worked for me. I then dump the yeast and set the temp for 68 F and let it warm up. I add the pellet dry hops and let it go for 48 hours and then rouse the beer. After another 48 hours cool down to low 60’s high 50’s again to drop out the hops. I think next time I will add a second charge of dry hops when I rouse the first addition. I felt that the aroma could have been a bit more robust.
Serving
I fine my beers with gelatin in my serving kegs. Properly done, a ½ packet of plain gelatin will give you excellent clarity. There are lots of good posts out there about how to fine your beer. If you are a vegan or will be serving to vegans, don’t use gelatin as it is derived from animal sources. You’ll need to use an alternate method. Since I keg, that’s the only method I can comment on here. I can’t stress enough that oxygen is the enemy of this beer and really any IPA. Double or even triple flush your serving containers with Co2 BEFORE you rack to your final packaging. I force carbonate to around 2.0 volumes. One final tip. It may be a little controversial but when I bottle an IPA for a competition, I tend to high fill the bottle to leave as little room for O2 as possible in the bottle. It will be noted on your score sheet but it won’t affect your score.
From the score sheets:
Aroma: Piney, resinous, citrusy and floral
Appearance:Light amber, good head, retention low
Flavor: Hops! Glorious hops. Complex flavor. Malty notes back this beer up.
Mouthfeel: Good body, tingly. Medium to strong body.
Well that's it. Give it a try if you like and let me know what you think.
Cheers!
Here is the recipe:
Grains
American 2 row 14.5 lbs (82%)
Honey Malt 1 lb (5.6%)
Carapils .75 lbs (4.2%)
Amber Candi Sugar 1 lb (5.6%)
White Candi Sugar .5 lb (2.8%)
The Candi Sugar helps dry this beer out but the Carapils does the opposite. I know what you’re thinking, but it works. I was hesitant to use Carapils at first but the beer turned out beautifully balanced so give it a shot.
Hops
Amarillo 1oz first wort hop
Amarillo 1oz 70 minutes
Columbus 1oz 70 min
Citra 1.5oz 15 min (Add your kettle finings and yeast nutrient here)
Citra/Cascade 1oz 5 min
Centennial .5oz 5 min
Citra/Cascade 1oz 1 min
Centennial .5oz 1 min
Citra/Cascade 1oz Dry hop for 4 days at 68 F.
10 gallons of RO liqour treated with 2.5g of gypsum, 2.5g Epsom salt, 5g CaCl2 for the mash.
Mash in at 148-150 F for 60 min.. Shoot for a fairly thick mash.
Mash out at 165 F for 10 min
Sparge with 175 F liquor to capture approx 8 gallons of wort. Sparge liquor is RO water treated with lactic acid to achieve PH less than 6.0. This is important to avoid tannin extraction and harsh bitterness. Remember, it’s better to collect a little too much wort because all of those hops soak up a lot of wort.
In the kettle, add your first wort hops as soon as you start your run off from the lauter. After flame out, let the wort rest for about 10 mins, get a good whirlpool going and then let it rest for another 10 min. This should give you a nice “cone” in the middle of your kettle and make it pretty easy to run off and chill. I chill with a counterflow chiller so if you’re an immersion guy (or gal), you’ll have to figure out a way to keep the hops out of the fermenter but you’ve probably done that already. Some guys use a false bottom in their kettle to do this.
Stats
OG: 1.083 (pre boil 1.071)
FG: 1.016
SRM: 12
IBU: 108 (estimated)
ABV: 8.9 %
Brew house efficiency: 82-84%
Boil: 70 minutes
Fermentation
Yeast: WLP 090 San Diego Super Yeast. This is a high attenuator/high flocculator with a clean flavor profile. It’s a perfect yeast for IPAs. We forgot to make a starter (Doh!), so we pitched 2 vials of yeast into wort oxygenated with 90 seconds of pure O2 through a 2 micron stone. Oxygen is critical to making clean well attenuated beers. Get an oxygen stone. You want this beer to attenuate fully. We were shooting for FG 1.014 or less and we ended up around 1.016, maybe 1.015 by the time it was kegged. A starter probably would have gotten us there.
Pitched 2 vials at 70 F and set the temp controller to 63 F (beer temp).
At 24hrs raise temp to 65 F.
At 48hrs raise temp to 67 F.
At 72hrs raise temp to 68-70 F and leave it there until FG.
Dry Hop
I have a 7.5 gallon conical fermenter that I rigged to be temperature controlled. If you have a dry hop procedure that works for you then you should get as good as or better results than I do. Anyway here is my process.
Once I reach FG I turn the temp down to around 58 F and let it sit for a day. The goal is to drop as much yeast as possible. You can go lower if you want but 58 F worked for me. I then dump the yeast and set the temp for 68 F and let it warm up. I add the pellet dry hops and let it go for 48 hours and then rouse the beer. After another 48 hours cool down to low 60’s high 50’s again to drop out the hops. I think next time I will add a second charge of dry hops when I rouse the first addition. I felt that the aroma could have been a bit more robust.
Serving
I fine my beers with gelatin in my serving kegs. Properly done, a ½ packet of plain gelatin will give you excellent clarity. There are lots of good posts out there about how to fine your beer. If you are a vegan or will be serving to vegans, don’t use gelatin as it is derived from animal sources. You’ll need to use an alternate method. Since I keg, that’s the only method I can comment on here. I can’t stress enough that oxygen is the enemy of this beer and really any IPA. Double or even triple flush your serving containers with Co2 BEFORE you rack to your final packaging. I force carbonate to around 2.0 volumes. One final tip. It may be a little controversial but when I bottle an IPA for a competition, I tend to high fill the bottle to leave as little room for O2 as possible in the bottle. It will be noted on your score sheet but it won’t affect your score.
From the score sheets:
Aroma: Piney, resinous, citrusy and floral
Appearance:Light amber, good head, retention low
Flavor: Hops! Glorious hops. Complex flavor. Malty notes back this beer up.
Mouthfeel: Good body, tingly. Medium to strong body.
Well that's it. Give it a try if you like and let me know what you think.
Cheers!
