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Gytaryst

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I brewed a Belgian Quad a few months ago that used 21 pounds of grain. BeerSmith II estimated the OG at 1.100. My measured OG was 1.055. That pissed me off, but I thought I knew where I went off the rails. I brewed a couple smaller beers in the meantime, an IPA, a pale ale and a stout all with OG's in the 1.055-1.065 range. I came in 5 to 8 points low on each one, asked questions on here, researched and read up on things, and assumed I had things relatively dialed in - not perfect, but I was encouraged that I was at least getting better.

Today I brewed an imperial stout. I normally brew 5.5 to 6 gallon batches, but I cut this one back to 3 gallons - thinking that should improve my numbers even more. BeerSmith estimated OG was 1.104. I hit all my numbers, pH, volumes, temps... everything dead on. Pre-boil gravity was supposed to be 1.077, I had 1.060. So I did a more rigorous boil than normal. Post boil OG was 1.073 . . . 43% efficiency.

I'm so pissed I could spit nails right now. I've been scratching my head trying to figure out what I need to do differently and I'm at a loss. I have no idea why this came in .031 points low. All the other numbers were dead on what BeerSmith estimated. I know the last time I mentioned efficiency I got bombarded with guys bragging about 80%+ efficiency telling me efficiency doesn't matter and they never look at it. Maybe, maybe not. 43% efficiency BLOWS - especially when everything else seems to be right in line with the recipe. I mashed at 153* for 45 minutes and did a starch conversion test.

Sorry for venting. Long brew day. I won't say it was a frustrating day because it wasn't. Everything was clicking into place just like it's supposed to. Until I took a hydrometer reading. Missing my OG by that much -
every f*#^&* time - no matter what . . . is just getting old.

Anyone want to buy a brew system?
 
There's got to be something about your system/process that isn't quite right. Have you verified your mash thermometer is accurate?

Brewing can be a long learning process. If you're ready to quit now maybe it's not for you.
 
Yeah man that's got to be frustrating! I've got a new system I'm working with right now and my efficiency isn't what it was before. I wonder if your crush isn't fine enough. I consistently got 83% efficiency with a simple BIAB pot and very fine crush. I'd check out your mill gap stir every 20 minutes and also make sure all your measuring tool (thermometers, hydrometers etc.) are accurate.
 
Check your thermometer. Check your hydrometer or refractometer. Make sure your measurement tools are all working properly and you're using them properly. Next brewday, make sure to get an extra-fine grind and mash overnight. If you're still coming up well short after an 8+ hour mash with a fine grist (and proper extraction of the wort out of the grain bed/bag depending on your process), then maybe God's telling you to drink less. ;)
 
System?? Process??
all-grain, 3 keggles, gravity fed, (no pump).

LnVwmen.jpg


The HLT and the BK are 1/2 barrel sanke kegs with the tops cut off, 1/2" ball valve silver soldered with stainless dip tubes. The HLT also has a sight glass. The MLT is a 1/2 barrel sanke keg with the bottom cut off. It has this bottom drain from Brewhardware and a roll of reflectix wrapped around it. It's probably overkill to have the entire 25' roll wrapped around, but I didn't have anything else to do with it. It's about 6 layers.

QN3XIig.jpg


I also have a 2" piece of foam rubber underneath. It holds temperature amazingly well, (less than a degree per hour). Living in Phoenix probably has something to do with it.

D5oGytS.jpg


I use the Brew in Bag for Keggle with a 10" round rack under it. I mill my own grain (fine), in fact I ran it thru my cereal killer twice today just to be sure.

I fly sparged for just under an hour today and hit my 5.25 pre-boil volume dead on. I'm thinking the boil in bag thing might be the problem. The alternative is a false bottom and I read a lot of posts from people having issues with the false bottoms floating up and grain getting under, especially with the bottom drain set up where there's no dip tube to hold it down. From what I read, I could do a much finer crush with the bag and not have to worry about small particles getting thru or a stuck sparge. So that was my decision process for choosing the bag.

But at this point I'm ready to go back to a 10 gallon Igloo cooler with a bazooka screen. That was my set up before.

In retrospect I'm thinking about just scrapping the whole keggle thing and down sizing to 10 gallon pots, maybe even BIAB and skip the whole MLT thing all together.

As it stands right now I'm pretty ticked so I doubt I'm going to brew anything else this year anyway.
 
I have 3 digital thermometers that are all in sync with each other and match the temp of my wife's analog candy thermometer. I calibrated my hydrometer on the last brew and it hasn't been used so while I can't be 100% sure it's correct - I am 99.9% sure. I'll check it in a while tho.
 
I haven't done many high gravity beers, but my understanding is that if you are going to get that high of an OG (1.1+), you either need to add more grain to make up for the efficiency loss or you need to sparge with more water to extract a greater amount of sugars, then boil that extra water off (e.g. 2 to 3 hour boil). I typically get 70% efficiency, so that is what I put in Beersmith. It took a number of batches to figure out what efficiency I was consistently getting, and it sounds like you've only done a few on your recent setup at a moderate gravity so it may take time to figure out what yours is.

Also, if you are fly sparging, the outflow speed has a large impact on your extraction. Going too fast can cause channeling and you can miss more of the sugar content. I think I remember John Palmer saying that ideally, your sparge should take about 45 min to an hour for optimal extraction. And you may consider letting your mash go longer too. How thick was your mash (quart/lb water/grain)? Too thick of a mash (1 qt/lb or less) and it may inhibit enzyme activity.

Lastly, another thought for the high gravity beer is to do what Jamil Z has labeled "polygyle". Look up the Brewing Network Brewstrong podcast and listen to the 3/12/17 episode with John Blichmann. It's a very interesting concept for big beers and I plan on trying it soon.

Sorry if this is all old news, just thought I'd throw it out there!
 
I am thinking along the lines of brewsader. I think channeling is your issue. I would try a batch, full volume, and stir regularly. No sparge. If that does the trick, the issue could be channeling. Maybe add a false bottom in addition to the bag.
 
I'll throw a couple things out but you may have already considered them...

Grain compaction. Do you ever move the mash around? Stir it? Is it hanging so heavy/packed/tight that the fluid cant get through the grain? It may fully wet during strike but possibly inadequate subsequent flow through after it gets a little goopy and settles in. Like some of the prior peoples posts, my gut says you are channeling or the wort is just flowing mostly around the whole ball/bag.

Grain freshness and/or quality. I walked into a brew shop a few years ago and it was obvious by the smell in the place that they didn't sell much. Musty, mildew like odors around the bins.

Maybe do a simple lighter pale brew and see how your system and processes turn out without a large grain bill. That big bill can definitely create some different dynamics with thermal concepts, fluidics, chemistry, etc.

Did someone accidently swap an under-modified or somethingeranother else with another base malt, at your supplier?

Is the mash pH ok? 5.2 to 5.6 ish? Do check it 5 to 10 minutes into the mash? And correct for temperature or let it cool before checking?

Have you stabbed the mash deep with a thermometer and verified your mash temp is truly what the grain is feeling?

Check your conversion, do the Tincture of Iodine test ($3 at your local pharmacy for a bottle of the stuff). Check some grain on the top AND some at the middle of the bag.

My hunch is it is something incredibly simple and you'll figure it out and be happily tipping your next brew.
 
I would expect using a grain bag as a simple liner in a bottom drain MLT is going to result in a highly preferential flow path straight down the middle of the grain bed.

Elevating the bag with an FB would solve that...

Cheers!
 
Ok I see what you have now. I kinda went through this, though not to the extremes you have. I got a eBIAB system from Colorado Brew Systems. Before I was using a simple cooler setup like you. I used to very good efficiencies... after not so much, not as bad as yours were... do what everyone suggests.. check thermo/hydro etc... grain crush does have a pretty big effect as I found out...
 
Believe me man, I know how frustrating the hobby can get sometimes. But, poor efficiency should be fixable. I'm thinking grain crush could be the culprit here. My efficiency was never quite there with BIAB. I was just getting standard crushes.
 
You have a keggle, you have a bag. Mill that grain really fine. Don't sparge at all. Your efficiency is primarily controlled by the milling of the grain. Sparging can get you more sugars but only from the available sugar source. If your grains are milled too coarse, the starches in the middle of the grain particles don't gelatinize and thus cannot be converted and are lost.
 
I agree with the above. I would also try to brew a lower og beer, and nail your og a few times before going up to quads and imperials. Since you got that bag, mill the grains super fine. Go to the BIAB section here and check out how those guys are setting up their mills. Brew a pale ale, and check the results. Post your grain bill in the Recipes section, have people give you feedback, and proceed.
 
So I am not a BIAB guy, but for all of my beers, I dont use the standard 1.25qt per 1lb water/grain ratio as it always seems the mash gets a bit too "thick" for my liking and my recirc is just not as efficient as I like it to be and with a few of my beers, stuck (or very slow) sparges (which introduces air pockets which is not desired) were also experienced as I crush just a bit more on the fine side but I dont double crush.

Just did not seem the water was able to get from the top of the mash to the bottom quickly enough to keep the mash where it needed to be.

I moved to a 1.49qt-1lb water/grain ratio and things got much better. Recircing flow was were I wanted it to be (was not "choked" flow-wise), the mash temps held closer to where I needed them to be (within 1-2deg of my HLT water) and efficiency actually went up from 80 -85% on my batches.
I also have not experienced a stuck/slow sparge since moving to this ratio either.

Granted you need a vessel large enough to do this, but I bought a 100QT pot for my MT and upping the water/grain ratio in the mash solved alot of my mash problems.

Just another idea if you have the capacity in your MT to up the water/grain ratio and try it out.

One other note (and I know this is obvious but I have to say it), make sure you are stirring your mash well when doughing in. Get all doughballs eliminated (the higher water ratio helps this as well) but make sure your grain is fully stirred and all the grain has been exposed to the mash water.
 
I'm confused on one thing--why would you be using a BIAB bag but also fly sparging? Doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose of BIAB's simplicity?

To say nothing of the extra time involved?

*************

So it sounds like, even though you use the bag, you're trying to do the traditional mash tun approach, including fly sparging.

One thing that made a big difference in efficiency for me was stirring the mash at 15 and 30 minutes, to make sure everything was mixed up, and to help even out any temperature extremes.

Can't really tell from the pics--it looks like your mash tun is on a burner. Is that to help maintain temps? Or just a stand? If you're maintaining temps with it, are you overheating the mash on the bottom which in turn can denature enzymes?

Depending on where you're taking temperature readings, it's quite possible you have significant differences in temperatures between layers. The grist interferes with the normal convective action of water being heated; it also tends to insulate it. It took me a few brew days to cotton to this--thus I'm stirring almost vigorously including trying to bring the mash up from the bottom to the top, to eliminate any thermoclines.

***********************

Channeling may well be a problem, though if you just hoist the bag.....

I'm wondering why you wouldn't just do a batch sparge? Easy-peasy, especially with the bag to help with lautering.

But then again, why not just BIAB? FWIW, when I switched from mash tun to BIAB, I dropped the gap on my mill from .035 to about .020. Efficiency is great, and no channeling since I raise the bag and squeeze it.

Just some thoughts. Good luck and I'm anxious to find out what solves this problem for you.
 
I was just wondering a few things
does this happen for low gravity beers?
what's your strike temp?
do you stir the mash?
have you been testing with iodine?

I suspect just a couple changes will get you back in the ballpark.
Like Mongoose said, I'm interested to learn what solves the problem.
 
A good night sleep helped.
All given info considered, I would finger channeling.

When you calm down consider doing a batch-sparge brew with everything else the same...

Cheers!
I've always done batch sparges. This was only the third brew I tried fly sparging on. My efficiency has SUCKED for the past 6 or 7 brews and 100% of my focus and attention has been on that. Everything I read said fly sparging was more efficient than batch sparging. Maybe it is -
maybe it isn't... I'm going back to batch sparging.
I would expect using a grain bag as a simple liner in a bottom drain MLT is going to result in a highly preferential flow path straight down the middle of the grain bed.

Elevating the bag with an FB would solve that...

Cheers!

I use a couple of my wife's cooling racks (crisscrossed). They're only 10" so there's minimal space below. I didn't want to run into the problem of having 5" or 6" inches of liquid sitting beneath a dry grain bed and have to adjust how much mash water I use. This recipe was 14.5 pounds of grain and I used 17 qts of water.

KGrvVJ4.jpg


... Grain compaction. Do you ever move the mash around? Stir it? Is it hanging so heavy/packed/tight that the fluid cant get through the grain? It may fully wet during strike but possibly inadequate subsequent flow through after it gets a little goopy and settles in. Like some of the prior peoples posts, my gut says you are channeling or the wort is just flowing mostly around the whole ball/bag.
I tried stirring it every 20 minutes on a 60 minute mash two brews ago. I didn't notice any difference and it just seemed like extra work and a pain in the butt. Plus I have no way to directly heat my mash. Once it's closed up I only lose about 1 degree in 60 minutes. Opening it and stirring it every 20 minutes dropped it down 4 or 5 degrees - wasn't worth it to me.
Grain freshness and/or quality.
The brew shop I go to is pretty busy. I overheard the owner talking about how breweries get first pick on grains and brew shops get whatever is left. I thought I heard him say he does about $15,000 a month just in grain. Maybe some of the less popular grains might sit around, but everything I used for this brew was pretty standard.
... Maybe do a simple lighter pale brew and see how your system and processes turn out without a large grain bill.
I did - that's why it's so frustrating. I brewed that Belgian quad that was supposed to be 11% and it turned out being like 5.5%, (and sour). 21 pounds of grain and 2 pounds of Belgian candi syrup for a 5.5% abv beer that's almost undrinkable. If I wasn't so cheap it would be undrinkable. After that I did brew several smaller lighter beers to see if I could get a handle on things. My efficiency was still low, but not drastically low, so I assumed I was making progress. I brewed a stout that is awesome. It was supposed to be 7% but came in at just under 6%, so I was miffed but not majorly upset. It tastes great. So this time I decided to cross my fingers and go big again. This was supposed to be a 10.6% Imperial stout. Coming in .031 points low was like a kick in the gut.
... Is the mash pH ok? 5.2 to 5.6 ish?
5.5, I checked it after I stirred in the grain, so maybe 3 to 4 minutes in.
... Have you stabbed the mash deep with a thermometer and verified your mash temp is truly what the grain is feeling?
I have 3 digital thermometers and the probes are all only about 4 inches. I do have a 12" inch dial thermometer I used to use way back when I was doing extract kits on the stove. It takes forever to get to temp and I never checked the accuracy, so I don't use it.
... Check your conversion, do the Tincture of Iodine test ($3 at your local pharmacy for a bottle of the stuff).
Yup

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... My hunch is it is something incredibly simple and you'll figure it out and be happily tipping your next brew.
That's my hunch too... which is why it's so frustrating. With each brew I think, okay I got this now . . . and then . . .
You have a keggle, you have a bag. Mill that grain really fine. Don't sparge at all. Your efficiency is primarily controlled by the milling of the grain. Sparging can get you more sugars but only from the available sugar source. If your grains are milled too coarse, the starches in the middle of the grain particles don't gelatinize and thus cannot be converted and are lost.
I milled it as fine as I could get my cereal killer, (I believe it's about .025?). I even ran thru twice this time. Personally, I think it's a combination of the bag and the fly sparge that's screwing me up. I don't want to abandon the bag just yet because the theory of crushing super fine makes a lot of sense to me. But I'm definitely going to give up fly sparging. This last fly sparge was my last fly sparge. It seems like if all the conditions are absolutely perfect then fly sparging is the way to go. But if even one minute simple detail isn't in line, fly sparging is the worst way to go.
So I am not a BIAB guy, but for all of my beers, I dont use the standard 1.25qt per 1lb water/grain ratio as it always seems the mash gets a bit too "thick" for my liking and my recirc is just not as efficient as I like it to be and with a few of my beers, stuck (or very slow) sparges (which introduces air pockets which is not desired) were also experienced as I crush just a bit more on the fine side but I dont double crush.
I'm going to try thinner mashes as well. It's been awhile since I read about mash ratios and the theories behind thin versus thicker. Whatever I read convinced me to stay around 1.25 - I think mostly just so I was using a consistent given so I wouldn't have to wonder if my mash being too thin or too thick was a factor. But yeah, I think I am going to shoot for around 1.4 to 1.5 from now on.
I'm confused on one thing--why would you be using a BIAB bag but also fly sparging? Doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose of BIAB's simplicity?

To say nothing of the extra time involved?
In retrospect . . . yes. I was having issues with efficiency and trying all kinds of things to raise it. Fly sparging was one thing I tried. And now that I've tried it, I'm done with it. I contemplated going with a FB, doing away with the bag and doing fly sparges. Instead I've decided to keep the bag for awhile and abandon fly sparging.
... Can't really tell from the pics--it looks like your mash tun is on a burner. Is that to help maintain temps? Or just a stand?
That's just a 2x4 frame I built. It's a bottom drain so no way to really heat it with a flame underneath. I considered buying a pump and making a recirc system - but at this point I've decided I want to go backwards and make things simpler rather than adding more contraptions that just complicate things and add more stuff to go wrong. My beers were "okay" back when I started with minimal equipment. I started adding this and that to make them even better, and looking back it seems like things have just gotten more complicated and the beer isn't as good. My first few batches were partial boil, BIAB extract kits in an 8 gallon pot on the kitchen stove . . . I'm seriously thinking about just going back to that. I started at 10:30 yesterday morning and finished up at 4:30 in the afternoon. I kind of miss the 2 hour brew days in the comfort of my kitchen.
... But then again, why not just BIAB? FWIW, when I switched from mash tun to BIAB, I dropped the gap on my mill from .035 to about .020. Efficiency is great, and no channeling since I raise the bag and squeeze it.

Just some thoughts. Good luck and I'm anxious to find out what solves this problem for you.
Thanks - that's the direction I'm leaning in.
I was just wondering a few things
does this happen for low gravity beers?
what's your strike temp?
do you stir the mash?
have you been testing with iodine?
Mash temp for this was 153*F. grain temp was 80*F and strike water was 164*F. Hit 153*F dead on.
Yes I stir it when I dough-in - that's it.
Yes, I do the iodine test. Have tried it with and without chalk. Not sure I noticed a difference and with a 4 year old daughter in the house finding chalk is sometimes more trouble than it's worth.

Thanks for all the feedback. I was pretty discouraged last night and posted this more as a vent just to get my frustration out. I didn't expect so many encouraging responses. Very much appreciated. Thanks and CHEERS!

:mug:
 
I'm thinking it's the combo of fly sparge with your grain crush in the Biab with a thick mash. That mash is a bit thick ( water to grain and fine crush) and the surface area of those grates is small. I'm thinking that's causing an inefficient washing of the grains. Perhaps your bed is compacting a bit from all the fine particles. If you want to fly sparge I'd increase the gap on your mill a bit. I'd also consider a false bottom.

I typically see a 15-20% drop in my efficiency when I go above 1.100 in OG.

I think I read you only did a short mash time on this batch. That's counter productive when your fighting for better efficiency on a big beer. Give those enzymes some time to convert all those sugars.

I also stir a few times during the mash. I typically use 1.5 qts per lb. I recirculate during the mash and still see a 3-5% jump in efficiency if I stir a few times toward the end of the mash. I do turn off the pumps for a bit after I stir to let the bed settle.

Hang in there!
 
Do you raise the mash temp for mash-out?
In my experience higher-gravity beers are more difficult to brew, at least for me. From now on, I think I am going to brew my beers to more than 1.070 gravity and then add LME or DME at the end of the boil.
 
Your grist ratio is pretty thick... Have you tried a thinner mash? I really like 1.6qt/# but I have a different system. I have an eHERMS and I fly sparge.

I didn't read things in too much depth but a keggle should support a thinner mash for bigger beers. Might be all the way to the top but it should help you. You've also touched on crush a bit.. Do you have a picture of your crushed grain? Might get some pointers there as well or help to rule that out.
 
Are you trying to hit 1.100+ with a 60 min boil? If I were brewing anything that high, I'd go with 2 hours min in order to bolster the efficiency hit you'd see by using that much grain. Longer boil = bigger sparge = more sugars in the BK = higher OG after boil-off.

I've found I can hit 80% efficiency with a 60 min boil if I'm brewing around 1.060 or less, but anything above that usually gets a 90 min boil to keep my efficiency somewhat the same. Quads and imperial anything gets 2 hours and I usually come in around 70%. I've never attempted to brew anything over 1.090-ish.
 
Honestly, if I had a big bag like that , and no false bottom, id be inclined to do full volume BIAB method...and forego the sparging operation. That would rule out a large percentage of the possibilities.
 
Rather than using the iodine test to check for mash completion, I recommend using the method here, that actually allows you to calculate the percent conversion (conversion efficiency), and can't get fooled by starch hidden in the cores of grits.

I agree with your plan to try mashing thinner (as many have already recommended.) And also agree that with your equipment, you should go back to batch sparging. The photo of the inside of your MLT convinced me that you likely have severe channeling issues.

And lastly, 45 min is too short a mash when doing a big beer. You really want to make sure you give sufficient time to get close to 100% conversion, since you can't avoid losing significant lauter efficiency due to the large grain bill. The method linked above will let you know when the mash is actually done.

Brew on :mug:
 
Your grist ratio is pretty thick... Have you tried a thinner mash? I really like 1.6qt/# but I have a different system. I have an eHERMS and I fly sparge...
His efficiency would likely drop even further with a thinner mash since he wouldn't be able to sparge at all. 1.17 qt/lb is more than enough water.

Are you trying to hit 1.100+ with a 60 min boil? If I were brewing anything that high, I'd go with 2 hours min in order to bolster the efficiency hit you'd see by using that much grain. Longer boil = bigger sparge = more sugars in the BK = higher OG after boil-off.

I've found I can hit 80% efficiency with a 60 min boil if I'm brewing around 1.060 or less, but anything above that usually gets a 90 min boil to keep my efficiency somewhat the same. Quads and imperial anything gets 2 hours and I usually come in around 70%. I've never attempted to brew anything over 1.090-ish.
^^ This. I do 90 min boils on 1.100+ beers too, in order to sparge more.
 
His efficiency would likely drop even further with a thinner mash since he wouldn't be able to sparge at all. 1.17 qt/lb is more than enough water.

1.17qt per lb is enough water? That would be one hella thick mash.
The OP posted he goes with 1.25qt/lb which is standard practice for most brewers so I was surprised to see someone recommend a even thicker mash for this.

I always mash right at 1.49qt/lb and never have efficiency issues or sparging issues. If anything it gets better on both efficiency and sparging/recircing.

I would absolutely NOT recommend going too thin on the mash but upping it to 1.5 would not be the end of the world and may actually help with it being a bigger beer/larger grain bill with his efficiency.

Worth a try for an exBEERiment!
:fro:
 
I use a single kettle, continuously recirculating mash, no sparge set-up, so I cannot offer any advice on process. I can commiserate, however, because I've missed my numbers many times whilst climbing the learning curve.

My advice is that if you cannot beat your efficiency problem, then join it! If you are getting 43% efficiency, then feed your current recipe to BeerSmith (or whatever you use), and tell it to convert from the assumed efficiency (typically 70%) to 43% efficiency. You will need to use a lot more grain, but you will get the points you are targeting.

If, by chance, you target 43% and hit 70% anyway, you can always water it down to where it belongs.
 
Go back to batch sparge. Run your mash thickness so that you get equal volumes from the first and second runnings. I use Brew365.com to do my volume and temp calcs for brewing and I've had excellent results.

When you add the sparge water, stir the crap out of it...like 10 minutes of vigorous stirring.

As noted, big beers really benefit from a longer boil.

I've been battling the same thing, but my problem was the crush. Switched to Bag in a cooler batch sparge with .025 crush (cereal killer) and my efficiency went from 61% to 71% (brewhouse efficiency calc'd by brewer's friend).

I've been trying to get my efficiency up so that I could brew a big beer. With the inherent drop in eff. with big beers, I wanted to be over 70% for middle of the road beers before I stepped up. I wouldn't try another high gravity brew until you get the eff. worked out. If you're mid-60's or lower for a 1.060 beer, you'll have a hell of a time hitting your numbers for a high gravity beer.
 
I use a single kettle, continuously recirculating mash, no sparge set-up, so I cannot offer any advice on process. I can commiserate, however, because I've missed my numbers many times whilst climbing the learning curve.

My advice is that if you cannot beat your efficiency problem, then join it! If you are getting 43% efficiency, then feed your current recipe to BeerSmith (or whatever you use), and tell it to convert from the assumed efficiency (typically 70%) to 43% efficiency. You will need to use a lot more grain, but you will get the points you are targeting.

If, by chance, you target 43% and hit 70% anyway, you can always water it down to where it belongs.


I would argue this is bad advice. 43% is really, really low efficiency and leaves a lot of room for a big oops in the opposite direction. He's likely not far away from being able to consistently get 70% or better. Just need to hone in on the exact issue or issues leading to this.

Band-aid fixes don't fix the underlying issue and just lead to more problems.
 
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