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mooonshine199

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I wanted to put this out there, my recent experiences, as a noobrewer I search lots and find few instances where what I'm doing is being done and documented for others to read. It may be because what I'm doing is usually done by people who don't bother taking notes, or are too embarrassed to document it, but again, for people that are in my shoes, doing this, here it is.

I make Frankenbrew... I have a dozen or so under my belt now, all extracts. I mix up recipes, on purpose and by accident... sometimes not so bad, sometimes really badly. I do Sanitize well, and I try to take notes, but sometimes I miss things. I have a wife and a couple young kids, a small house with enough room to brew extracts fairly easily. I've gotten the process down to an hour give or take for a brew, and bottling can be done in even less time. I have for the most part only bought Mr. Beer brand stuff, and I still use their plastic 2.5 gal kegs. I have two. I've never used their plastic bottles though, and I've bought a number of things along the way to make things easier and add some science to the equation.

I've never had to dump a batch yet, and only once or twice have I come close to "nailing it" on one of their recipes. I refuse to make "simple beers" even as a noob, just taking the can of "american light" and not adding anything to it- I see no point in making a 3% ABV beer... even for a learning experience.

My recent "experience" has been rolling along and started back in October, 2013. I had a few of my frankenbrews hang/stall/stuck fermentations, and so I thought I would go back to a recipe and see if I could at least come close to nailing it. I chose Defibrillator Dopplebock, a batch I had done well with prior and went to work on it. I followed the directions as written, and had a brand new Beer barrel to work with (properly sanitized of course). Oh - I do Use star-san to sanitize with, one of my step ups over the stock stuff. I started 10/14/13, and once my heated wort was added to the keg, I threw in a muslin sack with .5 ounces of Glacier pellet hops. I also added a little too much extra water into my keg. It was about 1/4 inch over the 8.5 Quart line. I also happen to have an AKAI Water Ionizer that has multiple settings. I use plain “purified” water for my brews using the AKAI, however sometimes I monkey around and toss in a cup or so of more Acidic (ph around 6-7) in place of a regular cup of water. Can't imagine this does anything, but again- throwing it out there. In this particular batch, I did add the acidic water, as well as some extra yeast. This kit came with the new gold Mr. beer packs of yeast (5g) and I had a few month old 2 gram mr. beer yeast I tossed in as well.
Oh aerating the wort? yes. I put the wort in the barrel with the lid- and I shake the living @#$% out of it for about a minute. usually it leaks all over, and I use a clean dishrag to wipe everything up once aerated. Only then do I toss in the yeast. I've left it on top, and I've stirred it after a few minutes. I don't think either way matters. Oh, and Pitching Temp- I always try to pitch in the mid 70's, usually can't wait for it to cool down to the low 70's but I never pitch over 80. I wait till at least 78, sometimes 75-76ish using an ice bath in the sink to cool the keg.

I use a refractometer that I bought online- worth every penny. Easy to use, and uses drops of liquid vs a hydrometer which I admit I've never used. I did check to see it reads zero with water, so I call that calibrated. I do use a specific calculator online to make sure I have the proper refractometer conversion built in - Link here: http://www.onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml -

Can anyone please let me know if this is correct and proper to use? That would be a step in the right direction.

The recipe said my OG should have been 1.085, my actual OG granted I added too much water was only 1.065... My FG goal was 1.008 again, according to the recipe. 2 weeks into the fermentation I'm at 1.035... Check the gravity a few times in the third week and I think it is...and after a few more days yup- stuck. I tried shaking, swirling to no avail- the closet I keep the kegs in is an interior climate controlled closet. Stays between 68-73.

10/28 - picked up some WLP001 yeast nutrient. I put 3/4 tsp in. Mixed it around. Also added 1/4 tsp yeast "nutrients" WLN1000HB - I read a lot about this stuff and the difference, I figured go with both, cross fingers one works. Another day goes by and- Nothing...

10/29, still at 1.035, so it's time to try something... remember this was supposed to be the one that doesn't get stuck... So I added a packet of dry yeast. Safbrew WB-06 11.5Gram packet I had laying around. It was dated 7/13 and I knew it was old, but tossed her in anyways. I also added 2 older 2g Mr. beer yeast packets thinking - hell why not. stirred a bunch...shut the door. I know- everyone is sitting around and saying… whats the acronym? Shut up sit down relax and have a home brew? I know I didn’t wait long for the nutrients to kick in, but I figured the sooner I got it going again the better…
When I shook it it seemed to have pressure in the barrel- it was gassing out the lid area... Thought for sure this was the cure, but I gave it another week and nothing 1.035.

11/9-Still at 1.035...So after reading every single post from anyone whose had a stuck fermentation...I knew my alternatives, I almost tried a starter(something I still have yet to ever try)... (again remember these are mr. beer barrels 2.5 gal there's not much room in these things once they are brewing...) So I skipped the starter.

Decision? I have an extra barrel- so I get it out- get sanitized, and start brewing another batch. I figure I can get two shots at this stuck batch with another brew, first, by throwing High krausen beer at it, and last resort, throw it on the freshly used cake. (Neither of which I had ever attempted before)

11/9 (still)- I brew up a batch of what I'm calling Aztec Sunset. I used one can of Mr beer Aztec Mexican Cervesa, 1 Pouch Booster , 1 pouch Robust. This time I went with straight Purified water, no acidic water. I wanted to get serious this time. I wondered if my Akai purification system could be taking too much out of the water, so I added some goodies. 1/2 tsp Amalyse Enzyme into the recipe. NOT Beano, I've read they ARE different -(beano never stops without boiling and Amalyse will depending on amount used) Got this from the local home brew store. I wanted this one to finish clean, and low gravity regardless of taste/profile/drinkability. I have no "target gravity" here, as these are extracts, so I don't have a grain bill, mash temp etc... and not even a recipe this time, just winging it. Because I wanted this to finish low, and I was concerned about the water possibly being an issue, I also added 1tsp energizer, as well as 1/2 tsp nutrient.
Did my usual Aeration, and measured an OG of 1.054. As for the yeast on this one. I used a liquid yeast at room temp - no starter, Belgian Saison WLP568. I used this for the flavor character/profile as well as the temp range which is on the higher end of things. I read it can stall out...so I kept my temps dead on ( I use a digital room thermometer where the plastic thing sits next to the keg and the digital read-out is in my kitchen). Also I added a dry packet of mr. beer 5mg gold packet as well just for insurance. I figured I used all the energizer, nutrients, enzymes... this thing would have to be cursed not to finish low.
Well it took off as expected.

11/10-At high krausen about 20 hours later(read sometime the next day), the foam was pumping out of the top of the lid on the Mr beer keg. I took both fermentors and opened the lids, gently poured about 2 cups from the krausening beer to the stuck one. 2 cups...give or take a cup. Eyeballing it- and looking at the lines on the side... at least a cup- no more than three.
11/20- While I was two kegs deep in the closet, one day my wife said “wow it really stinks in there today!!” and I went to look and got a whif- and wow it smelled like heaven…but this heaven quickly turned hell when I realized it was because the spigot on the Mr.beer keg had broken… ugh- this is the new version with the lever on it, so I quickly got out my brewing pan and boiled 2 gallons of water in it with the lid on so as to sterilize it. Once boiling- I had an old spigot from an old kit- I tossed it in the boiling water. Then I dumped the water out and put the lid on. I grabbed the leaking keg, dumped the contents as gently as possible into the brew pan (still hot but not scalding). I could see somehow, I must have over tightened the plastic nut- and or grabed it by the spigot – the spigot had cracked off- and how this was not spewing beer all over I don’t know… I untwisted the broken spigot, and with a freshly washed and patted dry arm, quickly removed the old parts and put on the new one touching as little as possible- trying not to leave arm hair or anything else inside the barrel. Once done, I poured the beer back into the keg…put on the lid…what else could go wrong?

12/8- I called it. Time to end this. The Aztec Sunset finished at what I thought was a very high still - 1.025 - which according to my calculator listed above is about 6.17% aBV. That will work for me...
The Defib (stuck batch) actually started bubbling again after the krausen addition although barely, and not for long... It came down a smidge and finished at (still high) 1.030. So all that and it came down 5 points... better than nothing.

I wasn't done yet though with the DD (stuck) I wanted to try the last step in the experiment. Once I bottled the Aztec Sunset, I bottled a 6 pack of the stuck DD, but then I poured the rest of it onto the Aztec Sunset yeast cake and let it sit even longer... On 12/21 I bottled the DD as it didn't move at all, still at 1.030. Both brews I used glass 12 ounce bottles. Prime tabs.( I love these – very easy to meter out accurately) 5 each. they showed signs of immediate carbing/Co2 bubbles but not much so I don’t expect any glass grenades. No bombs yet as of today 12/23. (got them in a case box in a garage sink just in case).

Think I'm done? No... Immediately after I bottled it, I Brewed another batch, wanted to try this too. Firstly because I’m crazy, and 2ndly because I wanted to see if this yeast was still viable after all this use/abuse…The New batch I'm calling ...”Don't know yet” (yes, that’s the name)... It's: 1 Can of American Classic, 1 pouch booster, 1 pouch Golden. I added 1/4 tsp both energizer and Nutrient for good measure. I used zero yeast. I pitched this wort right onto the cake from the Stuck DD, which is also the cake from the Aztec Sunset. (so there’s at least 4 kinds…I’m sure one strain probably dominated but who knows which one)… There was probably a cup or so of the old beer still in there which I know sounds brutal, remember that batch started back on Oct 14th.. and yes, the muslin sack with the Glacier hops...is still in there...now. I kinda forgot about that... (that wasn't in the Aztec though)... My OG on this new batch is 1.063. As I write this, I’m just after High krausen – the yeast was healthy enough, and took right off. Now the bubbles are slowing- I see sick looking blobules in there floating around…I see a very cloudy beer…full of yeast…and stuff… and the bag of hops is..as you can imagine, like a corpse floating in the East river…IF this sounds appealing to you…well I’m on the fence. Crossing fingers it cleans up, settles out at whatever my FG is in a few weeks time. I’ll bottle it and update.

After I brewed this yesterday, I had a friend over and we sampled the Aztec as it had been in bottles a week now and I threw two in the fridge just to see if they were...meant for human consumption. They were. Pretty good actually- very green...very. Very fruity... but you could tell it was not going to be bad once in bottles for a few months. The saison spicy? Well it’s there- strong? No- the beer had carbed, and wasn't too bad for only a week...

The DD? I haven't tried one yet from the 12/8 bottling... too scary still. I will try it first…(and only once it is …there… will I even try to open a 12.21 bottled DD) - It was a bigger beer and I dont even want to look at it yet- maybe in 2014...


I'm still confused as to why all my beers seem to be finishing so high. My OG's have ranged from just under 1.090 all the way to like 1.040...I've read "extracts" are the root of it.. but you would think the amalyse would have done the trick in the DD batch... Anyways. I love brewing extracts because of the time saving. A friend does mashing and sparging, even grows Hops, but I don't have the time for all, nor the space for that amount of equipment. That and I love how I can knock out brew after brew. I also like the small batch size. No matter how bad it is, ~20 bottles of just about anything doesn't last long once I decide it’s not getting any better after a few months...If it makes it that long.

So to all the Noobrewers out there, don't worry, just sanitize and give it more time.
To all the pro's that read this, I'd love any and all insight, advice, lambasting, critical and nonsensical comments you can provide. Thanks
 
You have my admiration for your persistence. I almost would put you as insane, or genius. I can't tell yet. I hope your brews turn out well.

Sent from my XT1049 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Jeesus man. Seems you have all the toys but no real tools, seems you have researched how to use them, but ignore the results.
Take a deep breath, follow a recipe exactly and pay attention to what it does.
Or, keep doing what your doing if it works for you
 
Moonshine: Reading your account was almost like watching a real bad horror movie- it's awfull but you can't tear yourself away.
I admire your persistence and your fly-by-the-seat-of-the-pants inventiveness.
I suppose as long as you're happy with the results, you're OK. But if you ever want to step things up a notch and make the best beer you possibly can, then I think you'll have to start over again completely from scratch. Starting with those Mr. Beer kits.
But more power to you man. You make beer, and that's always good.
Merry Christmas! :mug:
 
Once fermentation starts, ditch the refractometer for readings and use a hydrometer. Alcohol skews the results, so no refractometer reading is correct once alcohol is in the mix. There are various calculators out there, but I've never had one be accurate when using it. If you don't calibrate it with a hydrometer, a refractometer is useless, especially after fermentation begins. None of your readings are accurate at all, and are totally useless as to the FG. Your readings are probably more like 1.008 or 1.010.

I admire your persistence. You are totally opposite of the way I brew, but if you enjoy it that is great. I'm cheap, for one thing, and would never make a brew that I wasn't sure of. I would hate to spend money and not have a great result. I can tweak the recipe later, and sometimes I do, but I've never made an undrinkable beer except for the "caramel cream ale" recipe posted on this forum.
 
That whole thing just read as "frantic".

IMO, you're doing too much with too much - there are so many variables that you'll never be able to have consistancy, which would allow you to locate the issues you're experiencing one at a time and remove them.

Keep it Stinkin' Simple. It's beer man, make a SMaSH or two. Less can definitely be more. Then add ingredients to play around with.

My .02
 
Take an hydrometer reading rather than rely on the refractometer once you have fermentation started. You may be well off in your estimation.

As Yooper said, the calculators are only estimates.

In your epic novel above, you note that one of the beers should have been 1.085, but measured at 1.065. This could make huge difference in the refractometer calculation.
 
Wow, all three turned out great! For those of you who thought it sounded frantic, it was written really fast and when I reread it I could see that in the post totally. When I brew I actually take a bit more time. Although when the beer was leaking it was frantic I admit.

So the DD that I bottled at different dates, really can't tell the difference. But it's the best one by far. The Aztec Sunset, well, it turned out great but the fruity undertones from the Saison yeast and the Aztec base is like a red Corona with lime lime lime...but still ok if you are into that kind of beer.

The "Don't know yet", as for the name- yes, it fits like a glove. It's got a whole interesting flavor from all the yeast that went into making it. It's not nearly as fruity as the Aztec, and you can feel the Saison doing it's thing in there, but its probably my favorite of the three.

I had a friend come out for a few days, and in two days we went through 24 bottles 8 of each flavor, and we got pretty skulled off them. Went down easy, and I've got a case left of them to condition as long as I can avoid drinking them.

Cheers!!
 
Thought I'd come back to this. I brewed another batch after the last ones, used whatever I had laying around. Unfortunately, I lost my docs on how I made it. I called it, "ugh..." The only notes I have are on the labels, Brewed 4/17/15, bottled, 6/1/15. It's been in a closet at nice temps since then, and I just threw a couple in the fridge for a couple weeks. Just opened one....

Excellent Amber color, lighter body, subtle hoppy aroma, and the flavor? Amazing... I think "ugh..." may be my best beer ever, and is definitely going to be what I say when I have my next store bought beer.

Took a hiatus on brewing for a few years, got busy with life, but recently some friends were asking, so I peer pressured them all into buying some extract kits, and we all have batches fermenting as we speak. Can't wait to break a few more of these out, I'll be throwing 6 or 10 more into the fridge today.

Since then I bought a hydrometer. This was indeed the problem with my FG readings were so high. I tested the batch I have had going for 10 days or so, and the refractometer reading was 1.047 ish. This is coming from a 1.087 OG reading, using Saf-05, a 3 year old can (Best before Sept 28, 2014) of Mr. Beer (Current date is 3/18/17) Winter Dark Ale. I boiled 1 lb of CBW crystal amber malt for 10 mins, with a half-ounce of northern brewer hops in a cheesecloth sac. (Although the Malt was new, the hops were same as the older vintage gear) Once that was over, I added the HME, along with 1.75 packages of Mr. Beer rhobust LME (also best by 2014 - (I used the other .25 of the package to make a starter with some old yeast I had in the fridge from 2014. I used "about" 1/4 of the package of LME and about 300ml of water and put it in my 1000ml flask on a stir plate. I used an airlock on it because I wanted to see the amount of activity. The starter barely bubbled at all throughout the first two days...I threw in a second pack after 2 days- nothing... fourth day I dumped it.)), I left the boiled hops sac in, and added a second half ounce of the same hops in a second bag. Stirred it all up, and poured it into my 2.5 Mr. Beer keg.

I put the lid on and shook the thing to death, then added the brand new just bought saf-05. waited a few, stirred it one last time and let it sit.

This one I'm calling "Maybe May"... because I don't plan on even trying it until then.

The refractometer reading was 1.047 ish... the hydrometer reading is 1.023. Major difference.

So I tasted the sample from the hydrometer, and well.. it's thick and syrupy. So... Here we go again.

I got a smack pack of Wyeast 4021 (champagne) - and I'm gonna throw it in there later tonight. It's been 14 days and although the saf-05 is like 75-80% attenutation, and I think I'm at like 70-72ish%? I'm thinking this isn't gonna drop much more on it's own and for me it's like maple syrup... I think the 4021 might be bale to get me down to the mid teens if I'm lucky and that might help with the syrup factor.

Thoughts?
 
Not sure Champagne yeast is going to do anything. Most wine yeasts cannot ferment the complex sugars in malt. Since S-05 has already been to work on this wort, a the simple sugars are gone. I suspect the Champagne yeast will do nothing. I think you would get better results with something like 3711 (or Belle Saison, or Mangrove Jack Belgian strain). I have only used 3711 of those, and it is a monster.

If you do use the Champagne yeast, please report back your results.

Another problem with Champagne yeast, is that it is a killer yeast; that is, it prevents ale yeast from working. So if it doesn't work, you may have problems trying something else afterwards.


Other comments on your recipe/process:

'I boiled 1 lb of CBW crystal amber malt for 10 mins'. Boiling grains can extract tannins, and is not recommended. The sugars in crystal have already been converted and basically need to be dissolved in hot water, so just steep in ~160 F water. Try to limit max temp to 170 F.

Not sure what volume you were making, but 1 lb of crystal is a lot for 2 or 2.5 gallons. 1 lb of crystal will add ~18 points of unfermentable sugars. In 2 gallons, that would mean that .009 of your 1.023 FG is from this unfermentable sugars. Added to the fact that it was a dark beer kit, which probably had a lot of unfermentables anyway, and you added dark LME; it is not surprising you ended up with 1.023. In fact I think you did very well to get down to 1.023 FG.

1.023 would be way too sweet for me. Not sure what I would do. Just thinking off the top of my head, I think I would probably add a half pound of plain table sugar dissolved in a half gallon of water (boiled and then cooled). The sugar will drop the FG by maybe .002, and diluting from 2.0 to 2.5 gallons will further reduce FG ...... you might be able to get it down to 1.016 that way ........ which is still sweet to me, but some people like it that way.
 
Thanks for the input! Volume was 2.5 gallons, and I realized I didn't notate above it was actually 2 packs of Saf-05 initially which may have been how I got to 1.023. I had to move the fermentor to open it up- was very careful- and tossed in the well bloated smack pack of wy4021. I will update, but plan on checking daily for visible activity, and I'll do a reading in 2-3 days depending on that. It'll be interesting for sure to see if there's any movement, and if there is, was it cause by simply rousing the original 05, or if the champagne yeast was able to eat up any of the other sugars. That was the thought anyways after reading tons online, many say results of this will likely be inconsequential, but a few threads noted that the the 4021 "might" eat some of the sugars the 05 couldn't. I'll def try the 3711 at some point. thanks again, and I'll post results as I get them.
 
Ok, so here's my latest update:
So the last beer "Maybe May" is bottled and it didn't budge in the end. So that's ok, it seems dark and sweet, but we'll see how it conditions for a few months. I'm going to try one to check carb levels this weekend, it's in the fridge already.

Anyone that's read my threads know's I take notes, I document everything, but I try pretty crazy stuff. I like trying different. I know I can follow recipes, but I like to take the path less beaten and try different things. Even at the expense of a potentially better beer.

So this time I decided to use some stuff I had laying around, as well as some new stuff- and try a legitimate experiment:
Two identical brews, with only a different yeast. Given this last batch had tons of extra yeast, and all the stuff I've read about Champagne yeast being a killer yeast - and really high attentuation, I decided to brew one batch right on top pf the yeast cake from the "Maybe May" batch, and then an identical brew with nothing different but a new yeast. I used Bry-97, two packs for the other beer.

So, I called them Beer 1 and Beer 2. (think Dr. Suess)
Beer 1 and beer two were made with identical ingredients and identical process:

4 quarts water
1lb plain Amber dme
1lb briess sparkling Amber
1lb extra light
4oz sorachi ace hops
Boiled 30 mins.

Last 10 minutes (at the 20 min mark)
I added 1/4 tsp yeast nutrients -

Post boil added
1 can azteca Mexican cervesa Mr. Beer hme
4oz additional soarchi hops
Added filtered water to make 8.5 quarts

I then used a fish tank air pump to aerate for 30 minutes. (I didn't have a stone handy, so I googled how to make this: I used a 2 inch Tupperware with a big hold cut in the lid, and a microfiber cloth from a sunglasses case, a irrigation system double headed piercer to connect the hose to the Tupperware, and sanitized the entire thing.)

Post aeration, at about 70 degrees I checked the original gravity and it was showing 22 brix, or 1.092-1.093 on my refractometer and pitched two packs of BRY-97 West Coat Pale yeast.

Beer 2:

I followed the exact same process and arrived at the exact same O.G. 22 brix, or 1.092-1.093,(I was VERY impressed with myself on this...) this one may have been a hair closer to 1.092. While it was aerating, I was bottling the "Maybe May" batch. Once I was done bottling, aerating, and the temp was again about 70 degrees I poured the entire brew on top of the yeast cake from the Maybe May. Reminder, that yeast cake included: 2 packs dry Saf-05, 1 smack pack of Wyeast 4021 champagne, and 1 final pack of Lalvin Champagne Yeast (EC-1118 ) just to make sure that maybe may wasn't going to go any further.

So that was one hella yeast cake.

Both beers took off like rockets at like 8-10 hours were going strong for a couple days, then died down.
Both beers after two weeks started to clarify very nicely. Visually you could not tell the difference.

On April 27th, I liked how it was going and said, lets give it one more week in there to settle out, meanwhile I'll get all geared up for a 50 bottle bottling session and was super excited to get them in the bottles.

On 5/1... My wife says, the beer closet really stinks babe....I said, hang in there babe, 1 more week.
I went in there to get a bottle of the Maybe May's and put it in the fridge to test carbonation.
I smelled beer... big time. Then I realized my foot was stuck to the floor...
Oh no.
Beer 1, spigot broke off... it was leaking very slowly... probably over the course of a day or two max, and about a gallon of the 2.5 gallons was missing. Well missing from the fermentor, it was clearly soaked up by the 20 sweatshirts haning in the closet, which had also dripped beer all over the floor, which splashed up onto the walls... what a mess.

I thought. Damn. Well there goes my nice little experiment. As soon as I touched the spigot it let loose completely. It was like dried beer was holding it on there. I yelled for help and wife came to the rescue with a big tub. I carried the fermentor to the sink and quickly remembered that none of my bottles were sanitized or ready... BUT, I always keep my 2 flip top growlers sanitized and ready to go. So I grabbed them and opened one and knocked the spigot off and just let it flow into the growler. It filled it so I threw the lid on and went to the next, it filled it about a third.

Because they are the flip tops, thick walled glass ball type growlers, I think I'm ok to carb them up. I tossed in 26 muntons carb tabs on the fill one (with head space), and 10 in the 1/3 full one. This was at 9PM mind you after a long enough day to begin with. I went to bed disappointed...

Then I woke up at 6AM as usual this morning and said, oh snap, I forgot to measure the FG!!!
So I ran to my shed and grabbed the refractometer, ditching the hydrometer for lack of volume to measure...

I figured, I already added the carb tabs, but it had only been about 9 hours... but still... added sugar means I may be showing a HIGHER FG, not a lower right? So the measured via refractometer sample was 12.2 brix, about 1.049, the conversion I used shows 1.0218:
http://onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml
Shows the final result about 9.3 ABV. Again, this is with the added carb tabs- so this is a low ball figure, but probably pretty accurate.

I tasted it, it wasn't bad...it was definitely strong, a little alcohol-ish? maybe?
Attenuation on the Bry-97 from the web showed about 73-77%, and from my calcs I think I got about 75%? So right in the middle.

The Beer 2 is still in the fermentor, but i had to move it a bit, so it got a little mixed up in the process. I'm hoping it settles back down by the weekend as I really want to bottle it, not have the same issue (I doubt that will happen again)... and check the reading on it.

As the champagne yeast will likely be the winner in beer 2, and the attenuation rate may be higher... I'm wonder ow far it may have gone, and what I'll hit there. I'm glad I was able to at least get "some data" although the accuracy is questionable, from Beer 1.

Again, any thoughts, comments- all appreciated. I'll updated once I get the results of Beer 2. I also plan to measure FG before I add the carb tabs, but then I'll take whatever's left and try to recreate the 1/3 growler situation, where I take one 12 oz bottle, fill it 1/3 of the way, add barely about 1/3 carb tabs to it (compared to the usual 5 I put in each) and see if after 9 hours of sitting the FG is affected.

Remember, I always drink the stuff I create- and I force my friends to as well. hahaha (evil laugh).

The only real question I have for the any takers is- could there be a greater risk of infection- if the Beer 1 (the broken spigot) was leaking for more than a few days? Like if it was really leaking slowly for a week or so, and therefore fresh air was being sucked into the fermentor from the created vacuum? I realize there may be risk of infection from the hastily bottled and likely mishandled leaking fermentor.

Thanks and cheers!
 

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