Food safety of steeping bags, copper and solder

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Juul

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I've seen several people recommend the use of nylon paint straining bags from home depot as steeping bags.

I would be worried about using these without further information about the food safety of the type of nylon used to make these bags. Should I not be worried?

I also have not been able to find good information on what type of copper it is safe to use for brewing.

I'm thinking about using this copper from home depot for my counter-flow chiller. How do I tell if that's safe?

The solder I'll be using for the copper is the standard lead-free solder from home depot. I'm assuming this should be safe for soldering pipes used for drinking-water, but the pH of my mash will be lower and it will be near boiling when it reaches the copper, so is this still safe to use for this purpose?

In general I'm lacking a good resource for determining the food safety of various materials when used for brewing. I've had no trouble search the FDA website.

I realize I won't get sick after having a few bottles, but I want to be sure that I'm not drinking something that will give me problems if I drink a bottle a day for 20 years.

--
Juul
 
I can't answer all of your concerns, but I can offer some info I learned just yesterday. Today, in Georgia, residential plumbers are required to use not only lead-free solder, but also use WATER-SOLUBLE flux so that it rinses clean from the pipes. I would assume the same is true for brewing.
 
I've been worried to use non-food safe items too, so I've been using food-grade cheese cloth from the supermarket. You can get turkey stuffing bags from the dollar store too. It's not reuseable, but if you want reuseable, why not get the bags that are sold at the homebrew store. It might be a couple of dollars more than a paint straining bag, but it's the right tool for the job.
 
I would contact the companies directly if you're concerned. There might be info on the web too... Copper piping is pretty common/standard for H2O so I would think it's ok, consumption wise, but I'm no expert.
 
I am a plumber and M or L copper even soft copper is fine for use. The solders we use and flux are all safe for drinking water... Lead free!. There is no difference in copper in your brew kit to whats in your house beside wall thickness.

Copper is only bad if you try to smoke through it. Kinda like kids using it as a pipe. At that point it can produce unwanted gases.

Before use, if your nervous is to run hot water through your setup for 5 minutes to clear any left over flux. Hotter the better. They make a copper instead of that refrigeration copper but I have never seen or heard of a difference. Copper is copper.

Remember when fluxing you need very very little, some people slop the stuff on like peanut butter on a spoon!! Doing this will only increase the amount of flux in the line which could clog some of you openings.

As far as nylon netting I have no idea.
 
Nylon should be fine. It's got a pretty high melting point.

Copper is ok since the yeast will metatoblise the trace amounts that might get in the wort during the brewing process.

Lead-free solder and flux is also safe for acidic solutions such as beer. You should wash it well before use though.
 
Nylon should be fine. It's got a pretty high melting point.

Melting is not really the issue. When some plastics are heated (especially in an acidic environment) they can leach plasticizers that may be bad for your health. I am saying those nylon bags do, but they might.

I have had the same concern about using the nylon bags, and I do currently use them. My only source of comfort is the fact that when there is some possibility of an issue people come on here, say something, and the thread blows up. That hasn't happened with nylons strainer bags yet.

Dupont does seem to make food grade forms of nylon (again, I am not sure about the heat and acid resistance). But, I do know if you call the company that makes the bags they will say it is not food grade. This should really not be interpreted that it isn't OK to use, they just did not do the work to get approval because why would they.

While I do use the bags currently, I am looking for a SS solution mostly for durability reasons.
 
I use the muslin grain/hop sacks sold at the LHBS for grains,raw,or pellet hops. No worries then. And they can be gotten bright & clean again after use. I dump what's in them,turning them inside out in so doing. rinse them out reall well to get the grainy bits out of the weave.
Then boil them in a small sauce pan for 5 minutes or so to loosen any stains.
I have a sandwhich size tupperware container I then put them in,covered with PBW solution. I give'em 5-7 days to soak clean. The container is clear enough to see when this occurs. Then wring'em out,rinse well,wring'em out again & hang up to dry. Clean & new again!
 
Melting is not really the issue. When some plastics are heated (especially in an acidic environment) they can leach plasticizers that may be bad for your health. I am saying those nylon bags do, but they might.

I have had the same concern about using the nylon bags, and I do currently use them. My only source of comfort is the fact that when there is some possibility of an issue people come on here, say something, and the thread blows up. That hasn't happened with nylons strainer bags yet.

Dupont does seem to make food grade forms of nylon (again, I am not sure about the heat and acid resistance). But, I do know if you call the company that makes the bags they will say it is not food grade. This should really not be interpreted that it isn't OK to use, they just did not do the work to get approval because why would they.

While I do use the bags currently, I am looking for a SS solution mostly for durability reasons.

All very true, however, nylon is considered a fairly stable plastic. It really depends on the additives, like you say, plasticizers and release agents. The melting point is merely relative to the point at which the plastic itself started to break down.

They do make food grade nylon products, and I'll disclaim that I do not know, or even expect the paint strainer bags we commonly use to be listed as food grade. Generally anything that is not meant specifically to be used in food preparation or storage will never have a food grade rating, even if it could. Manufacturers don't want to spend the time and money to get it, and they will never tell that they are if they are not certified.

I'd prefer a SS solution and that is why I'm looking to perfect a Stainless device for this. But I won't hesitate to use a bag either. There are tons of other things that are likely much worse than a beer made with boiled nylon thread.
 
I am a plumber and M or L copper even soft copper is fine for use. The solders we use and flux are all safe for drinking water... Lead free!. There is no difference in copper in your brew kit to whats in your house beside wall thickness.

Copper is only bad if you try to smoke through it. Kinda like kids using it as a pipe. At that point it can produce unwanted gases.

Before use, if your nervous is to run hot water through your setup for 5 minutes to clear any left over flux. Hotter the better. They make a copper instead of that refrigeration copper but I have never seen or heard of a difference. Copper is copper.

Remember when fluxing you need very very little, some people slop the stuff on like peanut butter on a spoon!! Doing this will only increase the amount of flux in the line which could clog some of you openings.

As far as nylon netting I have no idea.

Thanks for the advice! After searching a bit more I found some information about the different copper types (K, L, M, refrigeration, etc.), and it seems like the different types and standards are concerned with thickness and durability of the pipes as well as the safety for potable water use. K, L and M types all adhere to standard ASTM B 88 (not concerned with food safety), as well as ANSI/NSF 61, which _does_ concern food safety.

From a PDF document on the manufacturers website (of the tube I was planning to buy):

"NSF 61 Restriction Statement Copper Tube (Alloy C12200) is certified by NSF to ANSI/NSF Standard 61 for public water supplies meeting or in the process of meeting the U.S. EPA Lead and Copper Rule (56FR 26460, June 7, 1991). Water supplies with pH less than 6.5 may require corrosion control to limit copper solubility in drinking water."

The "refrigeration" or ACR type does not conform to NSF 61, or at least it hasn't been certified. I will email the manufacturer and see if they'll tell me if they actually use the same copper for all of their copper tubing, or if I need to go find some NSF 61 certified tube.

I also found this:

"All tube supplied to these ASTM standards is a minimum of 99.9 percent pure copper. The copper customarily used for tube supplied to these specifications is deoxidized with phosphorus and referred to as UNS C12200 or DHP1 Copper. Other coppers may also be used. "
from Copper.org: Copper Tube Handbook: I. Types of Copper Tube

I guess it's the 0.1 percent I have to worry about then.
 
I can't answer all of your concerns, but I can offer some info I learned just yesterday. Today, in Georgia, residential plumbers are required to use not only lead-free solder, but also use WATER-SOLUBLE flux so that it rinses clean from the pipes. I would assume the same is true for brewing.

Interesting. The solder flux I bought does say "water-soluble" on it. Good to know!

--
Juul
 
I've been worried to use non-food safe items too, so I've been using food-grade cheese cloth from the supermarket. You can get turkey stuffing bags from the dollar store too. It's not reuseable, but if you want reuseable, why not get the bags that are sold at the homebrew store. It might be a couple of dollars more than a paint straining bag, but it's the right tool for the job.

Yeah. I think I'll end up getting one from a home-brew store. They're not that expensive.
 
Might want to check where the homebrew store got their "hop bags" from. They may just be selling a paint straining bag under another name.
 
So for the bags, Im thinking cheese cloth would be perfect. 12 bucks and get 5 sq yrds of the stuff?
 
Yeah. I think I'll end up getting one from a home-brew store. They're not that expensive.

I actually just ordered one, because I do BIAB and the paint strainer bags are just a little too small for that. I got a huge bag that will fill my entire 11 gal kettle. I'll still use the paint strainer bags as hops bags, though. They don't really make me nervous....
 
For most of you, your parents drank water that ran through copper pipes or galvanized steel pipes. The copper pipes were soldered with lead solder and the flux was not water soluble.

Meanwhile, somebody in a government bureaucracy had to justify their position and came up with new regulations that cover everything that we eat and drink. Some of these are very good and necessary but many of them are of questionable scientific origin and many people are scared to death of things that a generation ago were just fine. It takes time and temperature to leach chemicals out of materials. How long will this copper be in your wort? Will it reach temperatures near 400 degrees? Not long and not likely. Quit worrying about things unnecessarily. You have more to fear walking to the mailbox or driving to work than the chemicals in these items.
 
My brother in law is a corpration emergency plumber. He basicly does really big malls and strip malls in the middle of the night. Anyway I just asked him how safe it is and he stated just about what others have said that the regulations are so tight now you will be able to drink the flux soon. He said if Im worried about it flush with water and no need to flush with solution do to copper does send off an alloowable copper chemical but he said they ignore it because copper is non porus and the copper thats there actual kills microbs naturally in standing tubes. He said PEX is better than copper but its not recommended for outside use do to ultra vilot light.

Thats really my 2 cents as far as having a person doing it for 20 years and picking there brain. At least I can help in a non brew way :mug:
 
I am a plumber and M or L copper even soft copper is fine for use. The solders we use and flux are all safe for drinking water... Lead free!. There is no difference in copper in your brew kit to whats in your house beside wall thickness.

Copper is only bad if you try to smoke through it. Kinda like kids using it as a pipe. At that point it can produce unwanted gases.

Before use, if your nervous is to run hot water through your setup for 5 minutes to clear any left over flux. Hotter the better. They make a copper instead of that refrigeration copper but I have never seen or heard of a difference. Copper is copper.

Remember when fluxing you need very very little, some people slop the stuff on like peanut butter on a spoon!! Doing this will only increase the amount of flux in the line which could clog some of you openings.

As far as nylon netting I have no idea.

Thanks for the info! I posted another comment previously, but perhaps it got lost, or maybe it's waiting for moderator approval.

Anyway, I did some more online digging, and I found this great free resource:

The Copper Tube Handbook

Using that resource, and technical info I found on the Mueller Industries website (the manufacturer of the copper pipe found in home depot). I was able to verify that this copper coil is indeed food safe, though at first glance it doesn't look like it.

The copper coil I bought is listed on the package as type "Refrigeration", instead of type K, L or M. Refrigeration type is also referred to as Type ACR (see this table).

It turns out that there are a two types of standards that apply to these copper pipes. The ASTM standards, that seem to concern themselves mostly with the strength and thickness of the copper (though I haven't really dug into these standards), and the ANSI/NSF standards that have to do with safety for potable water use.

Specifically, the ANSI/NSF 61 standard is the one to look for, as that certifies the copper tube for use in drinking water systems:

"This [NSF 61] is a health effects standard, which embodies a testing protocol that measures and limits the amount of lead and other contaminants that a device may contribute to drinking water. It also applies to any devices used within the final one liter of volume that exits from a tap or other device. Plumbing fixtures and fittings that comply with this standard are considered "lead-free" and may be used in drinking water systems."

from Copper.org: Machined Products - Safe Drinking Water Act FAQ

Now, for the Mueller Streamline brand copper tube, only the Type K, L and M tube is NSF 61 certified. This is problematic, since the tube I bought is the ACR or "refrigeration" type. However, I snooped around the Mueller Streamline Technical information and found the following:

"All tubing produced in Fulton, MS, and Wynne, AR, is seamless and of UNS C12200 grade of copper" (ref)

Now my copper tube only said Made in USA, but then I found out that all Mueller Streamline copper tube is made in Fulton, MS or Wynne AR (ref).

Ok. So my "refrigeration"-type copper tube is UNS C12200 grade, and so is the type K, L and M, so it looks like they simply didn't bother with the NSF 61 certification where it wasn't relevant, even though it is the exact same grade of copper tube and thus should pass the certification.

There is one important note, though:

"Please note that devices, and not alloys, are certified under NSF 61. This is because devices, which are constructed of alloys in various designs and configurations, vary in the surface area of any lead-containing alloy exposed to the test water. Thus the various designs of devices, even when made of the same alloy, can leach varying amounts of lead." (ref)

So, one more check is required: Does Mueller Streamline have a Type K, L or M copper tube (NSF 61 certified) of the same internal diameter as the refrigeration type I bought? If so, then the same surface area of the same grade copper will be exposed to the water (well wort actually), so I can conclude that it's safe. This might be going to extremes, but I figured that I might as well complete the story now that I'd gotten started. I looked at their brochure online, and though my local home depot doesn't carry it, they do make both type K and L pipe of the same outer diameter at least. I suspect that the inner diameter variation between K, L and "refrigeration" types is small if not non-existent.

Out of curiosity I looked up what the UNS C12200 copper grade consists of:

99.90% copper
0.02% phosphorous
(ref)

Some interesting information about NSF 61:

"Any device, to be certified under NSF 61, is filled with pH8 test water and samples are withdrawn and analyzed over 19 days. In order to pass, the data must insure, with 90% confidence, that 75% of the products examined leach less than 11 ppb lead. Note that this is less than the 15 ppb of lead limit of the Lead and Copper Rule in that the (U.S.) EPA assumes that up to 4 ppb of lead could potentially originate from other sources. In fact, a California Proposition 65 consent judgment has set a lower limit of 5 ppb of lead in that state, as measured according to the NSF 61 test procedure." (ref)

I take that to mean that NSF 61 certified "devices" sold in California have a stricter requirement of at most 5 ppb lead during the NSF 61 testing, though I am not 100% sure I am understanding this correctly.

The last thing to investigate will be what the pH of wort is (I expect that it's below 7, not above as in NSF 61 testing), and whether or not this pH difference, as well as the near-boiling temperature (I'm using this for a counter-flow cooler), will have any effect on food-safety.

This may seem like a lot of effort to basically verify what was already known, or at least strongly suspected, but I found it a bit suspicious that no-one I asked so far, from home-brewers to plumbers to the brew-master at a microbrewery, had a simple answer such as "these are the copper grades and/or certifications you should look for".

Perhaps I will make a wiki-page on food-safety of brewing materials once I finish investigating the other materials I plan to use.

--
Juul
 
Thanks for the info! I posted another comment previously, but perhaps it got lost, or maybe it's waiting for moderator approval.

Anyway, I did some more online digging, and I found this great free resource:

The Copper Tube Handbook

Using that resource, and technical info I found on the Mueller Industries website (the manufacturer of the copper pipe found in home depot). I was able to verify that this copper coil is indeed food safe, though at first glance it doesn't look like it.

The copper coil I bought is listed on the package as type "Refrigeration", instead of type K, L or M. Refrigeration type is also referred to as Type ACR (see this table).

It turns out that there are a two types of standards that apply to these copper pipes. The ASTM standards, that seem to concern themselves mostly with the strength and thickness of the copper (though I haven't really dug into these standards), and the ANSI/NSF standards that have to do with safety for potable water use.

Specifically, the ANSI/NSF 61 standard is the one to look for, as that certifies the copper tube for use in drinking water systems:

"This [NSF 61] is a health effects standard, which embodies a testing protocol that measures and limits the amount of lead and other contaminants that a device may contribute to drinking water. It also applies to any devices used within the final one liter of volume that exits from a tap or other device. Plumbing fixtures and fittings that comply with this standard are considered "lead-free" and may be used in drinking water systems."

from Copper.org: Machined Products - Safe Drinking Water Act FAQ

Now, for the Mueller Streamline brand copper tube, only the Type K, L and M tube is NSF 61 certified. This is problematic, since the tube I bought is the ACR or "refrigeration" type. However, I snooped around the Mueller Streamline Technical information and found the following:

"All tubing produced in Fulton, MS, and Wynne, AR, is seamless and of UNS C12200 grade of copper" (ref)

Now my copper tube only said Made in USA, but then I found out that all Mueller Streamline copper tube is made in Fulton, MS or Wynne AR (ref).

Ok. So my "refrigeration"-type copper tube is UNS C12200 grade, and so is the type K, L and M, so it looks like they simply didn't bother with the NSF 61 certification where it wasn't relevant, even though it is the exact same grade of copper tube and thus should pass the certification.

There is one important note, though:

"Please note that devices, and not alloys, are certified under NSF 61. This is because devices, which are constructed of alloys in various designs and configurations, vary in the surface area of any lead-containing alloy exposed to the test water. Thus the various designs of devices, even when made of the same alloy, can leach varying amounts of lead." (ref)

So, one more check is required: Does Mueller Streamline have a Type K, L or M copper tube (NSF 61 certified) of the same internal diameter as the refrigeration type I bought? If so, then the same surface area of the same grade copper will be exposed to the water (well wort actually), so I can conclude that it's safe. This might be going to extremes, but I figured that I might as well complete the story now that I'd gotten started. I looked at their brochure online, and though my local home depot doesn't carry it, they do make both type K and L pipe of the same outer diameter at least. I suspect that the inner diameter variation between K, L and "refrigeration" types is small if not non-existent.

Out of curiosity I looked up what the UNS C12200 copper grade consists of:

99.90% copper
0.02% phosphorous
(ref)

Some interesting information about NSF 61:

"Any device, to be certified under NSF 61, is filled with pH8 test water and samples are withdrawn and analyzed over 19 days. In order to pass, the data must insure, with 90% confidence, that 75% of the products examined leach less than 11 ppb lead. Note that this is less than the 15 ppb of lead limit of the Lead and Copper Rule in that the (U.S.) EPA assumes that up to 4 ppb of lead could potentially originate from other sources. In fact, a California Proposition 65 consent judgment has set a lower limit of 5 ppb of lead in that state, as measured according to the NSF 61 test procedure." (ref)

I take that to mean that NSF 61 certified "devices" sold in California have a stricter requirement of at most 5 ppb lead during the NSF 61 testing, though I am not 100% sure I am understanding this correctly.

The last thing to investigate will be what the pH of wort is (I expect that it's below 7, not above as in NSF 61 testing), and whether or not this pH difference, as well as the near-boiling temperature (I'm using this for a counter-flow cooler), will have any effect on food-safety.

This may seem like a lot of effort to basically verify what was already known, or at least strongly suspected, but I found it a bit suspicious that no-one I asked so far, from home-brewers to plumbers to the brew-master at a microbrewery, had a simple answer such as "these are the copper grades and/or certifications you should look for".

Perhaps I will make a wiki-page on food-safety of brewing materials once I finish investigating the other materials I plan to use.

--
Juul

Your looking into this way more than is needed. I love the effort but to get those certifications costs money and that is why refrigeration pipe does not get them. The ID and OD sizes between the two are different. They know people are going to use these lines and mix them.

Refrigeration lines are actually better to use than L or M copper due to the fact that they are cleaned and dehydrated as not to contaminate a refrigeration system, But the cost is higher due to this.

Your not a commercial brewer having your facility inspected. Relax and brew on.

PS

Refrigeration tubing is type L thickness. Thats what the letters stand for is thickness and or grade if you will.
 
For most of you, your parents drank water that ran through copper pipes or galvanized steel pipes. The copper pipes were soldered with lead solder and the flux was not water soluble.

Meanwhile, somebody in a government bureaucracy had to justify their position and came up with new regulations that cover everything that we eat and drink. Some of these are very good and necessary but many of them are of questionable scientific origin and many people are scared to death of things that a generation ago were just fine. It takes time and temperature to leach chemicals out of materials. How long will this copper be in your wort? Will it reach temperatures near 400 degrees? Not long and not likely. Quit worrying about things unnecessarily. You have more to fear walking to the mailbox or driving to work than the chemicals in these items.

Yeah, if I used only materials that were otherwise used in food / plumbing then I wouldn't be too worried. I would worry a bit if I consistently used something called a "paint strainer bag" made of nylon possibly mixed with other unknown materials, in something near-boiling that I intend to drink.

However, most of my interest here stems less from direct food safety concerns and more from curiosity about the materials and process. I am often curious about the stuff that I buy as a consumer. How is it made? Where did it come from? What kind of materials are in this? There are good tv shows and a lot of information available online, but this is very general information. I often get annoyed with the lack of transparency in industrial mass-production. Ideally I would like to have access to information regarding every aspect of the production of the products I buy, exactly because I feel that it encourages re-purposing and creative re-use of existing products. Most people might not want to know what their paint-strainer bags are made of, but as soon as you plan to use them for something other than their intended purpose, it can suddenly become very interesting.

I want to encourage more people to build things and learn about the science and engineering of the world they live in. I want to lower the gap between consumer and producer and get more people to realize that they have the power to be makers, inventors and producers, not just consumers working their 9 to 5 and buying whatever mass-produced items are the coolest or cheapest this month.

I think a large part of empowering people to be more than consumers is access to information. The realization that the sometimes abstract principles you learn in school can apply, very directly, to your every-day life is a powerful one, and one I think can help kids and adults alike feel more connected and responsible to both their local community and the global society as a whole.

Long rant I know, but I didn't want to come across as some safety nut who has read one too many articles about "such and such causes cancer". This is more of an investigation into the transparency, or lack thereof, of the products and materials that are sold in stores today.
 
I actually just ordered one, because I do BIAB and the paint strainer bags are just a little too small for that. I got a huge bag that will fill my entire 11 gal kettle. I'll still use the paint strainer bags as hops bags, though. They don't really make me nervous....

Cool! I'll have to look into this. That would mean I could probably use my counter-flow cooler without any additional filtering. I can't think of any reason not to do this actually. Are there any disadvantages to BIAB?
 
** In response to Juul... I would say that the only disadvantage is you might be limited on the amount of grain you can use (limiting your OG) unless you have a huge kettle and a huge bag.. That's why I ordered such a big one, and just this afternoon I made a 15.5gal keggle. Now I can do up to maybe 17-20lbs of grain. Before I was only able to do up to about 15lbs at the most (filled to the tip-top of my kettle) in my 11 gal kettle.. I enjoy it, but I plan to move to a mash tun soon...
 
This just in... according to the state of California, existing causes cancer.

Related story: While boarding an airplane at San Francisco Aiport, after handing over my boarding pass, I see a sign stating that there are chemicals in the area known to the state of California to cause cancer. Really?! Couldn't that be said of the whole airport? Also, what am I going to do about it at that point? Stupid blind bureaucracy.
 
** In response to Juul... I would say that the only disadvantage is you might be limited on the amount of grain you can use (limiting your OG) unless you have a huge kettle and a huge bag.. That's why I ordered such a big one, and just this afternoon I made a 15.5gal keggle. Now I can do up to maybe 17-20lbs of grain. Before I was only able to do up to about 15lbs at the most (filled to the tip-top of my kettle) in my 11 gal kettle.. I enjoy it, but I plan to move to a mash tun soon...

Good to know, thanks!
 
• ANSI/NSF 61: Drinking Water System Components-Health Effects
This is the health standard for all plumbing products and materials that come in contact with potable water. Copper water tube, copper fittings, and copper and brass plumbing valves and fixtures are covered by NSF Standard 61. The Standard specifies that copper tube be evaluated at a pH of 6.5, rather than at the pH of 5 and 10 for other material types.
• ANSI/ASME B16.22: Wrought Copper and Copper Alloy Solder-Joint Pressure Fittings
As its name implies, this specification governs the elbows, tees and other solder-type fittings used to join standard plumbing tube. The copper used in these products has the identical 99.9 percent purity as standard copper water tube.
• ASTM B32: Standard Specification for Solder Metal
This specification covers the solders used to join copper tube and fittings. Today's plumbing solder contains no lead.
• ASTM B 88: Standard Specification for Seamless Copper Water Tube
This specification covers Copper UNS No. C12200 seamless copper water tube suitable for general plumbing, and similar applications for the conveyance of fluids, and commonly used with solder, flared or compression type fittings. The type of copper water tube suitable for any particular application is determined by the internal or external fluid pressure, by the installation and service conditions and by local requirements. Means of joining or bending are also factors that affect the type of tube to be used.
End Use Marks
NSF-61
Products bearing the NSF-61 mark are certified by NSF International to ANSI/NSF Standard 61 for health effects only. Certification does not include performance evaluation.
NSF-pw
Products bearing the NSF-pw mark are certified by NSF for all applicable performance standards for pressure-rated potable water applications and also to ANSI/NSF Standard 61 for health effects.

NSF Certification
The U.S. Safe Drinking Water Act (1996) and the Lead and Copper Rule (1991) require public water suppliers to provide noncorrosive drinking water to their customers. Typically, this is accomplished through the use of pH adjustment (pH 6.5 to 8.5) and through the addition of corrosion inhibitors such as ortho- and polyphosphates. The resultant tap water concentrations of lead and copper must be below the action levels of 15ug/L and 1300ug/L, respectively.
NSF International has certified several copper tube and fittings manufacturers to ANSI/NSF Standard 61. All have the limitation of being certified for use in non-corrosive aqueous environments. Specifically, the pH must not be below 6.5. Otherwise, resultant copper concentrations in tap water may exceed the action level established by the EPA.
ANSI/NSF Standard 61 requires products evaluated to conditions other than those specified in the standard (such as pH 5 and 10 exposure water) to be labeled with a limitation statement, as follows:
Copper tube (Alloy C12200) is Certified by NSF to ANSI/NSF Standard 61 for public water supplies meeting or in the process of meeting the EPA Lead and Copper Rule (56FR 26460, June 7, 1991). Water supplies with pH less than 6.5 may require corrosion control to limit copper solubility in drinking water.
NSF Certified copper tube must bear the NSF Certification mark and the limitation statement. The length of the limitation statement makes it difficult to place on the tube itself. Additionally, current inking technology results in smearing and low legibility. For these reasons, NSF certification policies allow copper tube manufacturers to place the limitation statement on a tag attached to bundles of copper tube, or on the boxes of coiled copper tube. Placing "NSF" on the tube itself is still required.
- See more at: http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techref/nsf/pip_cert.html#sthash.jH66sj1j.dpuf
 
U.S. Safe Drinking Water Act (1996) and the Lead and Copper Rule (1991) - HENCE, before 1991 all copper may be potentially tainted. Tell all those distilleries that have their pots before 1991, oh but they are grandfathered in...
 
Quick note from reading other posts....when referring to copper in refrigeration the copper is for the coolant, freon etc, and not for food safety...
 
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