First time using a mash tun.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BeerMe82

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
60
Reaction score
0
Location
canandaigua
Yep, ive been doing everything from kits in a pot on the stove up till this point. Ive been looking around on youtube and in the forums for some mashing procedure instructions and thought I had a good Idea of what I was doing. I think im supposed to mash at the specified temp for an hour and drain it off to the brew pot, then sparge through the grain bed until I reach my total quantity, but then I saw a guy do two complete mashes, and yet another guy just run a few quarts through his grain for sparge, then top off with tap water before the boil. Now im confused. Which method is right for me??? And how do I know?
 
Yep, ive been doing everything from kits in a pot on the stove up till this point. Ive been looking around on youtube and in the forums for some mashing procedure instructions and thought I had a good Idea of what I was doing. I think im supposed to mash at the specified temp for an hour and drain it off to the brew pot, then sparge through the grain bed until I reach my total quantity, but then I saw a guy do two complete mashes, and yet another guy just run a few quarts through his grain for sparge, then top off with tap water before the boil. Now im confused. Which method is right for me??? And how do I know?

I haven't done this yet either, but I've read and watched a lot of videos. I think the confusion comes from the fact that there are a number of different methods one could use. There's batch sparging vs. fly sparging for instance.

I think the method you use depends on equipment and your recipe.

The basic method I've seen for people using a cooler MLT is something like this:

Preheat the cooler.
Heat strike water.
Add water to cooler, then dough in your grain.
Once you regulate your temp, let it sit for 1 hour.
"Settle" the grain bed by draining a quart or two of the wort until it runs clear (called vorlof?)
Pour those first runnings back into the MLT.
Then drain the rest of the wort into your pot.
Add the preheated sparge water, and drain that.

Those last steps involve some other things I think, but like I said, I've never done this yet. I'm sure someone will come by and set me straight about a few of the things I said. :mug:
 
onipar has the basic idea, but I'd change one thing - "over" heat your strike water (step 2) and add it to your tun first. It will pre-heat the tun, then once its cooled to the desired strike temp add your grains.
 
Onipar you've got it. You can let the spate water sit in the cooler for a couple of minutes and you'll want to vorlof every time you start draining, like with your sparge water. There are many other ways to do it, just like everything else in brewing but you've got it.
 
Ha, sweet. Glad I didn't throw him off completely. :mug:

Yesterday was actually my very first Partial Mash (BIAB), so I've been doing crazy amounts of research getting ready.

jmf143, yeah, that makes more sense. :drunk:
 
There's a few strike water calculators out there on the web, they basicly take grain temperature and quantity into account, and you input your desired mash temp. They it calculates what strike temperature you will need to get to, so that when you add your cooler grain, it will end up right at the desired mash temp. I think Beersmith does this too.

For my system it's generally 165deg strike to get a mash temp of around 152-154.
 
Also a note about the vorlof. I use a Tupperware pitcher and catch the first draining. Once it drains clear, I move the pitcher and let it run into a pot. The barley hulls are filtering & settling during this period.

A small tip I found works well for me, is I take a square of tin foil and lay it in the top of the mash tun. I then pour the collected wort back into the top, right ontop of the foil, so that I don't disrupt the grain bed.
 
Back
Top