First time and some simple questions

[fauxtoe]

After making my first recipe I decided that I should just go for all grain with the stove top method using a massive grain bag and two pots.

My recipe has 6.5 lbs of grain including 1.5lbs of crystal malt (3lbs of honey too). Using what I think are pretty standard rules I've read on here Should one pot have a little over 2 gallons (8.125 liters) for the lauter, and 3.25 gallons for the sparge?

I used what I found being 1.25 liters to 1lb of grain for the lauter and 1/2 gallon of water to 1lb of grain for the sparge.

This also makes me questions what would I do if I had a bigger grain list without using honey, would I just end up with a bunch more beer(more liquid)? But wouldn't that also dilute the total OG? As it is this will end up being quite a bit less than 5 gallons after boiling loss and so forth.


And finally another silly question of sorts, is it ok to keep the burner on low to maintain a temperate around 150 while the grains soak? I don't have much insulation with the stove top method but I haven't seen anyone suggest this or denounce it.

 

[BluBruShack]

Im a rook in this area too but here is what I have found so far. I have been able to leave the burner off for almost half of the mashing process. It is generally around 30 minutes or so that I will have to give it a boost back into range. I think that if you left the burner on you would be stirring constantly or would risk burning your grain. GL and Happy Brewing

-BBS

 

[fauxtoe]

Anyone have any knowledge on the water?

 

[boscobeans]

Anyone have any knowledge on the water?

No longer live in the NYC area but your water (aside from chlorine that is boiled off quickly) is great for making beer. It is not too hard or too soft, just plain old water from upstate aquifers.

bosco

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

Water these days is amazingly uniform. Even if you have a soft water source, they dump stuff in it to make it hard water. That way it is easier on the pipes (less rust).

Bob

 

[Dan]

You might want to cut down on the crystal, by the looks of your recipe it is nearly 16 percent of it. Crystals add body and sweetness, they don't ferment. This can result in a high FG and sweet (as in sugary sweet) beer unless that is what you are going for I'd cut the crystal down to no more than a pound, probably even by half.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

You might want to cut down on the crystal, by the looks of your recipe it is nearly 16 percent of it. Crystals add body and sweetness, they don't ferment. This can result in a high FG and sweet (as in sugary sweet) beer unless that is what you are going for I'd cut the crystal down to no more than a pound, probably even by half.

GMTA! I like to keep caramel malts under 10% in most beers, maybe a bit more for certain styles.

I've been brewing AG stovetop BIAB batches for about 9 months now and here's what works for me; I have two large kettles, 7 and 5 gal, for the mash. Most grain bills can fit into one using a large paint strainer. For 10+ #s of grain, I simply split the mash into two vessels. For the sparge, I use either the 5 gal or a 3 gal kettle with preheated water and 'dunk' sparge per Deathbrewer's sticky. I use a water/grist ratio of 1.25 qt/lb of grain, and and the same ratio for sparging if I can. If I have to sparge in the smaller kettle I use .75qt/lb. Either way works, but I get about +3-5% eff. if I sparge with a 1.25 qt/lb ratio.

 

[fauxtoe]

Thanks for the tips on the water, I guess I should have specified. I love the water in NY but I was asking if my calculating was right:

"My recipe has 6.5 lbs of grain including 1.5lbs of crystal malt (3lbs of honey too). Using what I think are pretty standard rules I've read on here Should one pot have a little over 2 gallons (8.125 liters) for the lauter, and 3.25 gallons for the sparge?

I used what I found being 1.25 liters to 1lb of grain for the lauter and 1/2 gallon of water to 1lb of grain for the sparge."




I'll also probably adjust out some of the crystal but my goal was to make this a sweet crisp summer honey wheat.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

I'll also probably adjust out some of the crystal but my goal was to make this a sweet crisp summer honey wheat.

For something like that you want a very very small amount of crystal/caramel, if any. And keep it on the lighter side of crystal malt, like 10L or carapils. That way you'll get the right body, but a dry, crisp beer. The 'sweetness' will come from wheat yeast esters and the flavors from the wheat itself.

 

[Dan]

NB.. GMTA? I had to look it up! Cool man! As is your advice to the OP! Well done.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

NB.. GMTA? I had to look it up! Cool man! As is your advice to the OP! Well done.

As was yours, my friend. Thus the reason I started off by riding your coattails into the thread!

 

[wilserbrewer]

Fauxtoe, try looking at the water in a different light...total water used should be batch size plus boiloff (guess 1 gallon) plus grain absorption (say 1/2 gallon) less loss to trub (say 1/2 gallon).

So just ballparking for a 5 galllon batch you will need 7 gallons total water.

I think this is a better way to look at the problem than using X to mash and X to sparge.

Another simple way to look at it is to measure first wort runnnings, then subtact that from your total wort required (less losses of course) and that will be your sparge amount.

Basicly sparge to your required volume...this is rough but hope it helps you...it can be simple if you let it...