First Keezer Gas Leak

[Brüverine]

Just kegged my second beer a few days ago and check this afternoon to find an empty CO2 canister.

Perhaps my nifty new MFL quick connects are the culprit?

I checked for leaks when warm and after a day of sitting in the keezer...so this one really snuck up on me. Going to get a refill of CO2 tonight after work and try to find the leak.

Any insight/words of wisdom for this situation?

 

[Golddiggie]

What are you using to clamp the hoses to the swivel nuts??

 

[DuncB]

It's a very popular thread topic sadly. You have to start at one end of the system and check as you go.

ie cylinder, next connections, ball lock connectors, posts and the corney keg lids.

Immersion in water ( not the regulator ) is very reliable . Sprayed starsan shows bubbles.

Make sure the tube is really rammed in fully and has a flat end into any connector. Do the MFL connector up and then another quarter turn ( not gorilla tight ), the plastic connectors can crack.

No really tight bends on the tube coming out of the connectors either.

 

[Brüverine]

I'm just using standard hose clamps with the Philip's head fastener.

Most barbs are 1/4 inch OD but I made sure to get 5/16 OD barbs to be snugger on my 5/16 ID hose. All connections have hose clamps to barbs.

All MFL connections have nylon washers where they may come in contact with metal, but not where the connect directly to plastic (i.e. keg gas in post connect).

 

[FswBG]

Yes, I had a similar battle after a new keezer build a few years back and have adopted a few quick ways to narrow down the leak that seem to work for me.

1. Check all hose clamps and make sure they're tight.
2. Check your tank regulator. Is it on tight enough? Washer still good? Spray it down and listen for the leak at the source.
3. Rule out a leaky keg by doing the following
3a. Turn off the gas to all kegs via your manifold/secondary regulator/ or at the tank.
3b. After a few hours or even next day, turn back on the flow one keg at a time. If there is a keg that is using a lot of CO2 to refill, take it off the gas and set aside for inspection. Continue doing this for remaining kegs. I hope it goes without saying that if you are carbing up a beer when doing this test, it will be a bit more challenging.
3c. Keg inspection - Put a decent amount of gas in the keg (>10psi) spray the ball/pin locks, lid, and around the PRV with soapy water or star san and look for bubbles. If you don't find the immediate problem, I typically replace all gaskets, re-lube them, and then back into the keezer to be retested. If you set a keg aside, but didn't find any issues I'd look at the disconnects. Any bent poppets? Replace the disconnect anyway? Use discretion.

 

[Brüverine]

No really tight bends on the tube coming out of the connectors either.

I don't have any tight bends, but do have a loop or two so that may be something to check.

I know the keg is good and the regulator is good from my last keg. The fact that this tank drained so quickly this time makes me think it is just something that contracted as it got cold and may have to do with the new connections. I will be more vigilant and check a few times a day comes I get my new tank.

 

[Golddiggie]

IME, the screw tighten clamps blow for being leak free. I switched over to oetiker clamps soon after I got my first kegging setup (back in 2011). Never looked back. These clamps seal all the way around the fittings without fail (if you buy the correct size, which is easy).

Keep in mind, as well, anything that's a screw to tighten can (and usually will) come loose when it's the worst possible time (for you). Oetiker clamps are crimped to close and will not come loose on you. You have to cut the clamps (stainless ) to remove them.

 

[Brüverine]

New canister in and everything seems to be holding. I really cranked on the MFL connector so I think that was it. Submerged everything but the regulator in water to check for bubbles and nothing.