Did up my first brew (Tommyknocker Maple Nut Brown Ale) yesterday and currently have some good fermentation action going on. I guess it is what is called a partial mash brew with initial steeping of grain, dry malt extract and hops, boil, some more hops and Irish moss, boil, some more hops and maple syrup, boil, chill, transfer to fermenter. Primary equipment was my newly built garage kitchen (used cabinets/countertop/sink/microwave, camping utensils), Coleman camp stove, brew keggle, dual-coil chiller with submersible pump and ice, brewkit, used refrig with Ranco controller. Somewhat awkward like any new activity but no significant problems. Two lessons learned were to maybe use a grain bag next time and a DIY SS mesh hopstopper. Hoping all goes well with this batch.
First Brew in the Pail!
- Thread starter rgray58
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BlackBearForge
Well-Known Member
Congrats! I just got my first in the carboy last night and it is just starting to ferment this morning.
Thanks. Hope to brew many more.
Interesting to see that the first reply was all the way from Ireland. Rather than obsess during the entire brew process, when all was going well I would sit in my chair and play Celtic tunes on my mandolin for my dog while drinking some Legend Brown Ale. Absolutely great day!
Interesting to see that the first reply was all the way from Ireland. Rather than obsess during the entire brew process, when all was going well I would sit in my chair and play Celtic tunes on my mandolin for my dog while drinking some Legend Brown Ale. Absolutely great day!
Joy over. 
Came home to see the primary fermenter had slowed drastically since this AM. While transferring to secondary and just about done, a fly fell in the secondary.
Grabbed the clean turkey baster/sampler, doused with sanitizer being used for the stopper and airlock and sucked the fly out as quick as I could. But afraid the damage is done.
Will keep an eye and post pics if I even suspect an infection. $#@&@!&(^$&)#^%@*(^#@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
P.S. If I could, I would take my avatar's smile and shove it where the sun don't shine. I'm pissed!
Came home to see the primary fermenter had slowed drastically since this AM. While transferring to secondary and just about done, a fly fell in the secondary.
Grabbed the clean turkey baster/sampler, doused with sanitizer being used for the stopper and airlock and sucked the fly out as quick as I could. But afraid the damage is done.
Will keep an eye and post pics if I even suspect an infection. $#@&@!&(^$&)#^%@*(^#@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
P.S. If I could, I would take my avatar's smile and shove it where the sun don't shine. I'm pissed!
Newbeerguy
Well-Known Member
I will be 100% honest here. I would be ALOT more worried about racking your beer 1-2 after pitching the yeast. Sometimes it takes 3 days just for the fermantation to get going! Did you take a hydrometer sample? Even if it was at your expected FG, there is no way the yeasties were done cleaning up after themselves. I would keep it in the primary for 2 to 3 weeks. Maybe longer....
Hope it turns out ok!
Hope it turns out ok!
starrfish
Well-Known Member
Belgians ferment in open stone vessels I'm sure many flies drop in there with wild yeast...
why did you transfer so early? may have knocked east out of suspension leading to a stuck fermentation. gravity readings?... browns can be done in a few days... but longer is better. (yeast cleans up after itself) what yeast? I may be concerned with diacetyl more than the fly (buttery or butterscotch flavor common fault on quick brown ales). However you are going to secondary... more info please. Maple syrup takes a while to dry out if it was real maple. Pancake syrup is mostly corn sugar...
Learning experience... you still may be OK... more info.
why did you transfer so early? may have knocked east out of suspension leading to a stuck fermentation. gravity readings?... browns can be done in a few days... but longer is better. (yeast cleans up after itself) what yeast? I may be concerned with diacetyl more than the fly (buttery or butterscotch flavor common fault on quick brown ales). However you are going to secondary... more info please. Maple syrup takes a while to dry out if it was real maple. Pancake syrup is mostly corn sugar...
Learning experience... you still may be OK... more info.
Daybis
Well-Known Member
Congrats on your first brew.
I'm now in the habit of letting all of my beers sit in the primary for 3 weeks a minimum. Then I decide to go to secondary, bottles, or kegs.
I am also interested in seeing what recipe you are using to produce a tommyknocker maple clone.
I'm now in the habit of letting all of my beers sit in the primary for 3 weeks a minimum. Then I decide to go to secondary, bottles, or kegs.
I am also interested in seeing what recipe you are using to produce a tommyknocker maple clone.
Thanks for the replies and here's some more info as requested.
Early transfer based on LHBS guidance (weekendbrewer.com) which from all indications is a reputable store in the Richmond, VA area.
Recipe had two yeast choices and LHBS had checked off the first choice -Wyeast 1968 London ESB. Bottle I have is White Labs Homebrew Liq Yeast, London Ale Yeast, WLP013. I assume it's the same.
1/3 lb pure, unadulterated, no preservative maple syrup used during boil. 1/2 cup more maple, 1/2 cup Extra Light Malt Extract, and 2 cups of water to be used for priming.
Phone is ringing off the hook so it took awhile to write this. I see someone is asking for the recipe which I will post in a separate reply.
Early transfer based on LHBS guidance (weekendbrewer.com) which from all indications is a reputable store in the Richmond, VA area.
Recipe also called for fermentation between 68 and 72 and to transfer when fermentation slows. I was fermenting at 70 degrees. Airlock bubbling was fairly constant on Monday @ 0400, 1600, 2100 and Tuesday at 0400. Tuesday at 1730 it had drastically decreased.
Recipe had two yeast choices and LHBS had checked off the first choice -Wyeast 1968 London ESB. Bottle I have is White Labs Homebrew Liq Yeast, London Ale Yeast, WLP013. I assume it's the same.
1/3 lb pure, unadulterated, no preservative maple syrup used during boil. 1/2 cup more maple, 1/2 cup Extra Light Malt Extract, and 2 cups of water to be used for priming.
Phone is ringing off the hook so it took awhile to write this. I see someone is asking for the recipe which I will post in a separate reply.
Figured to just scan and attach the recipe. Originally written for a partial boil, the hand-written notes are corrections made by my LHBS owner to adjust for a full 5 gallon boil. If you can't read, pm me and I will send a PDF file.
Well, it's probably just fine so don't worry!
And, their instructions to transfer as soon as fermentation slows are wrong. Don't worry about it this time, but don't do it on your next batch! There used to be a real concern about yeast autolysis and getting the beer out of primary ASAP. However, with the new quality yeast strains, almost all brewing authorities will tell you to not do that. Not only can it stall fermentation, you can actually stop some of the good stuff the yeast does after fermentation. For example, one of the by products of the yeast is a substance called diacetyl. When the fermentables are gone, the yeast will actually then go back and digest whatever they can, including their own waste products like diacetyl. It's been shown that there is a huge benefit to better tasting beer (and less risk of oxidation and infection) if the beer is left in the primary for that to happen, usually about a week or longer. Moving the beer as soon as fermentation slows, and relying on airlock activity to tell you so, is very "old school" and old thought. It probably did no harm, but it certainly didn't help.
One last tip- about fermentation temperatures. Remember that an active fermentation produces heat, so if your room is 72 degrees, the beer inside may be as high as 80 degrees or more. You want to keep the beer at the optimum fermentation temperature for your yeast strain. A great place for this information is the yeast manufacturer's website. For example, here's what White Labs says about their WLP013:
WLP013 London Ale Yeast
Dry, malty ale yeast. Provides a complex, oakey ester character to your beer. Hop bitterness comes through well. This yeast is well suited for classic British pale ales, bitters, and stouts. Does not flocculate as much as WLP002 and WLP005.
Attenuation: 67-75%
Flocculation: Medium
Ideal Fermentation Temperature Range: 66-71°F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium
So, you can see that the instructions about keeping it above 72 degrees are BS. The higher the temperature, the faster the fermentation, the more likely the yeast will produce fruity flavors that are called "esters". In some beers, it's fine and actually part of the profile but generally you don't want to exceed the top of the yeast strains temperature range, as recommended by the manufacturer.
I'm not trying to rip on your LHBS- they are absolutely trying to be helpful and give you the best information they can. Just be aware that not every one can have all the best and up-to-date knowledge, and the yeast manufacturer can give the best info on their yeast strains and temperatures.
I'm sure your beer will be awesome- so don't worry! Just relax and let it be. The great thing about brewing is it's a great hobby for procrastinators!
And, their instructions to transfer as soon as fermentation slows are wrong. Don't worry about it this time, but don't do it on your next batch! There used to be a real concern about yeast autolysis and getting the beer out of primary ASAP. However, with the new quality yeast strains, almost all brewing authorities will tell you to not do that. Not only can it stall fermentation, you can actually stop some of the good stuff the yeast does after fermentation. For example, one of the by products of the yeast is a substance called diacetyl. When the fermentables are gone, the yeast will actually then go back and digest whatever they can, including their own waste products like diacetyl. It's been shown that there is a huge benefit to better tasting beer (and less risk of oxidation and infection) if the beer is left in the primary for that to happen, usually about a week or longer. Moving the beer as soon as fermentation slows, and relying on airlock activity to tell you so, is very "old school" and old thought. It probably did no harm, but it certainly didn't help.
One last tip- about fermentation temperatures. Remember that an active fermentation produces heat, so if your room is 72 degrees, the beer inside may be as high as 80 degrees or more. You want to keep the beer at the optimum fermentation temperature for your yeast strain. A great place for this information is the yeast manufacturer's website. For example, here's what White Labs says about their WLP013:
WLP013 London Ale Yeast
Dry, malty ale yeast. Provides a complex, oakey ester character to your beer. Hop bitterness comes through well. This yeast is well suited for classic British pale ales, bitters, and stouts. Does not flocculate as much as WLP002 and WLP005.
Attenuation: 67-75%
Flocculation: Medium
Ideal Fermentation Temperature Range: 66-71°F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium
So, you can see that the instructions about keeping it above 72 degrees are BS. The higher the temperature, the faster the fermentation, the more likely the yeast will produce fruity flavors that are called "esters". In some beers, it's fine and actually part of the profile but generally you don't want to exceed the top of the yeast strains temperature range, as recommended by the manufacturer.
I'm not trying to rip on your LHBS- they are absolutely trying to be helpful and give you the best information they can. Just be aware that not every one can have all the best and up-to-date knowledge, and the yeast manufacturer can give the best info on their yeast strains and temperatures.
I'm sure your beer will be awesome- so don't worry! Just relax and let it be. The great thing about brewing is it's a great hobby for procrastinators!
Thanks. I've been a little worried about differences between what my LHBS says and what I have read here but decided that his methods would at least work. I'm not sure my LHBS was keen on me going full-boil (but he was very helpful to adjust the recipe). On my first visit, his pitch was partial boil, chill in sink, ferment somewhere in house with no real answer to my question that my house temp is about 78, etc. I threw him off when I went in to buy my equipment and ingredients and said I built a keggle and chiller and added a Ranco controller to my frig. But brewing my first batch definitely helped me understand many of the techniques I have read about here on this forum but didn't fully understand. And I am already planning some technique and equipment improvements I plan to make for the next batch.
eanmcnulty
Well-Known Member
Listen to Yooper. She knows what she talks. That is the best thing about HBT. The conversationson here go back and forth so quickly, that the best information floats to the top. The more you read the more voices you will recognize to trust for good information. I homebrewed twenty years ago and I had was the Charlie Papazian book. A good book, but the ability to search for help or just ask for it today allows us to imporve our brewing so quickly. Thanks HBT!
starrfish
Well-Known Member
yoop is the queen of this board! she's helped me more times than she knows! (she actually responded to my very first post on this board in minutes! thanks yoop!)
thanks for posting more info... I may try an all grainer of this I love brown ales!
)thanks for posting more info... I may try an all grainer of this I love brown ales!
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