First Batch Done - Some Questions

[Indy418]

First off, thanks for anyone who can help me out.

Long time beer geek, first time brewing. Went out and purchased a starter kit and just got done with the first batch. I have some questions about some of the directions that came with the kit that don't seem quite right, even though I followed them to the "T."

I went simple for the first batch-- a 3 1/2 lbs. can of Coopers Bitter malt extract, pre-hopped, with a 2 lbs. package of dried malt extract.

I sanitzed then boiled three quarts of water in my pot, and four gallons went into the bucket. Water boiled and I added the canned and dry extract. Then that came to a boil, I removed it from the heat and poured it into the fermenter with the cold water.

Next, I added the yeast that came with the Coopers can and covered the top to the fermenter partially. I waited ten minutes, the stirred the yeast in, covered the fermenter up, and put the airlock on (half filled the air-lock with water as well)

I had aggressive fermentation the next day which shot the water right out of the airlock. I was told that's because I didn't let the extract cool down before adding the yeast. Gotcha. Just kept cleaning out the airlock and the fermentation eventually settled down.

To the questions...

-I've read pretty much every where that you're supposed to boil the extract and water for 45 minutes or so. My batch, however, boiled over with foam after only a few seconds of boiling. How do you prevent against boiling over?

-I haven't read anywhere else that you're supposed to stir the yeast in, but my directions told me to--what's up with that?

-When should I start taking my hydrometer readings and what's the best way to do it? Can I just take the top off the fermenter and drop the hydrometer in?

-I've also been told that if I want a fuller tasting beer, I can use more than just one can of malt extract, but should that change the amount of water I boil it with?

Ok. That should be it for now. Again, thanks for anyone who can provide a little bit of help. Not sure how this first batch will go, but I'll wait ten days, bottle, wait a week and see!

Thanks!

 

[JMSetzler]

1. Prevent against boil-overs with a bigger brew kettle if possible. Another way is to bring the wort to a boil a little more slowly, but that won't help a lot.

2. Stirring in the yeast is not necessary. It will hydrate and do it's thing on its own if you are using dry yeast.

3. I take a hydrometer reading when my wort is between 60 and 70 degrees before I pitch the yeast. I take another hydrometer reading when I rack from my fermenter to the bottling bucket. Those two readings will help you calculate your ABV.

4. You will want to look at various beer style recipes and see how much extract is used in them. It varies from style to style and, most importantly, from brewer's preferences

 

[Rhymenoceros]

I'm pretty new at this too but I might be able to answer a few of these:

-Boil overs will happen, I've heard a small fan blowing over the top of the kettle will keep the foam down, and make sure its not covered. That'll keep the foam down and get rid of DMS (causes bad flavors). P.S. the generally accepted boil time is 60 minutes.

-I have never stirred my yeast in and it's been just fine

-Every one has their own hydrometer opinions, you should have taken on before you pitched your yeast, that will give you you original gravity, which is useful in several calculations. You will most likely use your hydrometer to tell when your beer is done fermenting, so an OG isn't really necessary. When you think your beer is done fermenting take a hydro reading, wait a few days and take another one, if they are the same, you're good to bottle. Some people dont even bother with hydrometers, but its good to know how to use one.

-3 quarts is a pretty small boil, do the biggest boil you can (your small boil size also probably helped the speed of the boil over). The more extract you add, the more malty your beer will be, Ive used 7 lbs of liquid extract in all of my brews so far. It all depends on the style and taste youre going for.

P.S. it may take more than a week in bottles to carb your beer, also, the longer you wait the better your beer will be.

 

[nebben]

-I've found that boilover really starts when hops are added. Did yours all of a sudden burst over? An alternative is to get a bigger pot, or put the hops in while the heat is off temporarily. I believe there are additives available that reduce foaming during the boil too.

-Stirring yeast is good, or throwing it ontop. I just pour it in.

-Take a reading just before pitching yeast, and again when you're transferring to secondary, or just before bottling to make sure it is done. I will test at about 2+ weeks and again a few days later to verify fermentation is through. Do *not* drop the hydrometer into your beer , instead, draw off a sample with a turkey baster or better yet with a siphon or wine thief and put it into the tube that the hydrometer comes packaged in. This way you can keep the hydrometer from getting stuck or breaking in your beer...plus you can drink the tested sample after measuring it!

 

[lx302]

I see you have a lot of questions.
Welcome to the forum and the hobby of homebrew.
Although a good homebrew book and this forum will help, you can start searching for topic to help out.
See below for some answers to your questions.

First off, thanks for anyone who can help me out.

Long time beer geek, first time brewing. Went out and purchased a starter kit and just got done with the first batch. I have some questions about some of the directions that came with the kit that don't seem quite right, even though I followed them to the "T."

I went simple for the first batch-- a 3 1/2 lbs. can of Coopers Bitter malt extract, pre-hopped, with a 2 lbs. package of dried malt extract.

I sanitzed then boiled three quarts of water in my pot, and four gallons went into the bucket. Water boiled and I added the canned and dry extract. Then that came to a boil, I removed it from the heat and poured it into the fermenter with the cold water.

Next, I added the yeast that came with the Coopers can and covered the top to the fermenter partially. I waited ten minutes, the stirred the yeast in, covered the fermenter up, and put the airlock on (half filled the air-lock with water as well)

I had aggressive fermentation the next day which shot the water right out of the airlock. I was told that's because I didn't let the extract cool down before adding the yeast. Gotcha. Just kept cleaning out the airlock and the fermentation eventually settled down.

To the questions...

-I've read pretty much every where that you're supposed to boil the extract and water for 45 minutes or so. My batch, however, boiled over with foam after only a few seconds of boiling. How do you prevent against boiling over?
Most hopped extract kits will say to bring to a boil and or 15mins before adding to a fermenter. The reason you read that 1hr is perffered, is for brewers who add their hops to unhopped extract or do an All-Grain recipe to extract the hop oils and flavors. To prevent boils overs, you remove the pot off the heat, or turn down the heat. That simple.

-I haven't read anywhere else that you're supposed to stir the yeast in, but my directions told me to--what's up with that?
You want to stir the yeast in and shake and stir the wort to add oxygen for good fermentation.

-When should I start taking my hydrometer readings and what's the best way to do it? Can I just take the top off the fermenter and drop the hydrometer in?
Don't drop the hydrometer in. Use a tall glass or plastic/glass cylinder designed for a hydromter. You should have taken a reading right before you added the yeast. This is your Starting Gravity. Then take another reading before you bottle. This is your Final Gravity, A certain amount below the starting gravity, you know when your beer is done fermenting. The difference between the 2 reading you can also figure out the amount of alcohol is in your beer. I don't take reading in between due to possible contamination. Wait 3 weeks, then bottle is a good rule of thumb.

-I've also been told that if I want a fuller tasting beer, I can use more than just one can of malt extract, but should that change the amount of water I boil it with?
No, use the same amount of water. 5gals. Adding more malt will increase the SG and FG, hence more alcohol content of the finished beer.

Ok. That should be it for now. Again, thanks for anyone who can provide a little bit of help. Not sure how this first batch will go, but I'll wait ten days, bottle, wait a week and see!

Thanks!

 

[Ben25]

Welcome!

1- When your boil first starts, you have to keep an eye on the heat, otherwise you know what happens. It will go through a hot break, and the foam will die down, then you can crank the heat up more. Just always watch it, or it will boil over! (also, keep a spray bottle full of water handy, and spray it if it starts to foam up.
I don't think you have to boil it for that long if you're using prehopped extract. The longer boil is to extract the alpha acids from the hops.

2- You don't need to stir the yeast in. Just dump it on top and it will find its way.

3- From what I've found, it's easier to take a sample out of the fermenter using a turkey baster or wine thief. That way you're not fishing for your hydrometer.

4- If you're using prehopped cans, I don't think the amount of water really matters, but you can add more for fuller taste. You would have better results using unhopped extract and steeping grains and adding hops, but then the bigger the boil the better.

Hope this helps!
Ben

Edit* Wow I'm slow! there were no posts when i started writing this!

 

[Rhymenoceros]

I don't really know much about pre-hopped extract, so some of my previous advice may not be applicable to it.

 

[tndave]

When the wort starts to foam stirring will reduce the foaming and thus the boil over until the heat break. After that you should be fine...as far as boil over is concerned...

I sanitzed then boiled three quarts of water in my pot,

I don't get it...boiling will sanitize the water.

 

[Indy418]

Awesome!

Don't want to bump it back up the thread but since it's my first post, just wanted to say thanks for all the help!

If homebrewing has taught me anything so far--it's patience. I keep staring at the bucket--"Ferment! Do it! I want to bottle and taste!"

Thanks!