Filtering Question

[djstaticburn]

I have recently come across some vids/info that suggests you can take a 10" tall under sink filter housing and a filter that is 30 microns and filter the majority of trub out while still letting enough yeast through to the secondary to bottle. pretty cheap, and easy to make this btw.

My question is, if i filter with a 1 or 5 micron filter (thus filtering the yeast) throw a packet of say coopers kit yeast, and then then say 3-5 days later batch prime in the 2ndary, 1. would the beer still carb properly. 2. would any off flavors be produced, cuz i would think that all of nutrients aside from the dex / dme i would use for bottling would be gone, so i would guess not.


just curious.

 

[skunkfunk]

Kinda defeats the whole purpose of filtering it to do that. You'll still get bottle trub.

A good long cold crash or gelatin finings will do just as well. If you're force carbing maybe filtering could make some sense, but meh.

 

[djstaticburn]

not kegging yet, only just did second batch, but i would say feesably by the begining of feb ill have a 3.3 or 5.0 cu. ft deep freeze with a johnson temp ctrl module, i spend most of my time trying to find ways to do the next step up as cheap as poss on the financial end while still getting good quality.

but you totally answered my question, waste till i can cold crash / keg.

thanks sir

 

[Yooper]

not kegging yet, only just did second batch, but i would say feesably by the begining of feb ill have a 3.3 or 5.0 cu. ft deep freeze with a johnson temp ctrl module, i spend most of my time trying to find ways to do the next step up as cheap as poss on the financial end while still getting good quality.

but you totally answered my question, waste till i can cold crash / keg.

thanks sir

In order to push the beer through the filter, you need kegs and c02. So you'd need at least two kegs (one to hold the beer, and one to receive it), the c02 tank to push it, and the filtering set up along with the other connections and tubing needed. If you're going to do that, might as well sterile filter (removing the yeast) since you'd be putting the beer into a keg anyway.

You can't really do this without a 'closed system'- pushing the beer with c02 and not allowing any contact with oxygen, as oxidation will ruin the beer.

 

[Natdavis777]

I don't bottle. I do help my friend though. This is a beer after a week in the bottle. By the time its was drinkable, it was pretty clear. I wouldnt worry about filtering until you keg. You should be able to get some bright beers by bottlingView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1420246235.164879.jpg

 

[djstaticburn]

cool thanks so much guys

 

[djstaticburn]

that reminds me of another question skunk.

I saw a tut vid on cold crashing, he was using a better bottle carboy and from the crash it had seriously sucked in the volume of the carboy. ATM i have 2 6.7gal ferm buckets, and 2, 5 gallon food grade buckets that I drilled 1/2" holes in and stuck a grommet and airlock in em. Could i cold crash with that equip?

 

[djstaticburn]

Kinda defeats the whole purpose of filtering it to do that. You'll still get bottle trub.

A good long cold crash or gelatin finings will do just as well. If you're force carbing maybe filtering could make some sense, but meh.

that reminds me of another question skunk.

I saw a tut vid on cold crashing, he was using a better bottle carboy and from the crash it had seriously sucked in the volume of the carboy. ATM i have 2 6.7gal ferm buckets, and 2, 5 gallon food grade buckets that I drilled 1/2" holes in and stuck a grommet and airlock in em. Could i cold crash with that equip?


PS - this is terrible as i work tech support, sorry for the double post, i cannot for the effin life of me find the delete post option.

 

[skunkfunk]

that reminds me of another question skunk.

I saw a tut vid on cold crashing, he was using a better bottle carboy and from the crash it had seriously sucked in the volume of the carboy. ATM i have 2 6.7gal ferm buckets, and 2, 5 gallon food grade buckets that I drilled 1/2" holes in and stuck a grommet and airlock in em. Could i cold crash with that equip?


PS - this is terrible as i work tech support, sorry for the double post, i cannot for the effin life of me find the delete post option.

There are a few options. Use a solid bung that is big enough it can't be sucked in. Use foil instead of an airlock. Use an s-type airlock. I use foil.

 

[sboyajian]

I use a 6.5 gallon ferm bucket for cold crashing. No problems.

 

[oakbarn]

We keg and got into filtering and it is a waste of time. Unless you are moving your beer around alot, most of the keg trub comes out in the first ounce. If you move a keg and are fairly careful, we have no issues. The cold crash and then de trubbing the keg works great for us. The filtering does require 2 kegs. We ferment our Lagers in a corney keg and then Cold Crash to 33 degrees and de trub and transfer and no longer a filter between. We lost two much product with the filter and sometimes having to mess with the seal was a PITA. Our beer comes out crystal clear unless we shake the keg (Quick force carbonation because we cannot wait )


We do have some "floaties" in some of our beers, but in Home Brewing, that is a "feature"!:rockin:

 

[djstaticburn]

Sweet thanks sir, most def helps