FG off (what am I doing wrong?)

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Pyg

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My last few 5 gallon batches have been finishing with a high FG. The oatmeal stout and deception stout I understood because of the use of lactose, however the IPA listed below had a SG of 1.070 (which was higher than expected- per Brewers friend)
FG of 1.030 (higher than expected- per Brewers friend)
5 gallon batch

IBUs: 78 (per Brewers friend)

ABV: 7.5 (per Brewers friend)

MALT

6.6 lb Pale liquid malt extract

2 lb pale DME

.05 lb Crystal 20malt

0.5 lb Munich malt

.05 lb carapils

HOPS

1 oz (28 g) warrior at 60 minutes

1 oz (28 g) Citra at 15 minutes

1 oz (28 g) Citra at 10minutes

1 oz (28 g) Citra at 0 minutes

2 oz (57 g) Citra at dry hop

YEAST

1 packet Safale S-05

I mashed the grains for 30 min @ 155F
I boiled 6 gallons wort for 60 min.
I took the SG @ 75-80F
Pitched yeast at same temp
1 week @68F
1 week @60F
Took FG @ 60F

My hydrometer is calibrated to 60F

Do my fermentation stop?
Or do I just have a bunch of Unfermentable sugars?
Would the grains add that much in-fermentable sugars?

I was aiming for 7.5 % and got 5.25%

Any thoughts?
Advice?
Leave it be?
 
So what I think you're saying is, the measured Original Gravity of your IPA was 1.070, and the measured final gravity after two weeks is 1.030. The bulk of your sugars came from the LME and DME... the steeping grains are more for color and flavor, very little sugar is contributed. I don't see anything that would add a bund of non-fermentables. If you still have the beer in the fermenter, I'd add another packet of US-05 (my favorite yeast) and let it clean up the remaining sugar. Keep in mind is 1 sachet is not always enough to ferment a 5 gallon batch... there are calculators (Mr. Malty) out there that can help calculating how much yeast you'll need to fully ferment the beer.
 
My last few 5 gallon batches have been finishing with a high FG. The oatmeal stout and deception stout I understood because of the use of lactose, however the IPA listed below had a SG of 1.070 (which was higher than expected- per Brewers friend)
FG of 1.030 (higher than expected- per Brewers friend)
5 gallon batch

IBUs: 78 (per Brewers friend)

ABV: 7.5 (per Brewers friend)

MALT

6.6 lb Pale liquid malt extract

2 lb pale DME

.05 lb Crystal 20malt

0.5 lb Munich malt

.05 lb carapils

HOPS

1 oz (28 g) warrior at 60 minutes

1 oz (28 g) Citra at 15 minutes

1 oz (28 g) Citra at 10minutes

1 oz (28 g) Citra at 0 minutes

2 oz (57 g) Citra at dry hop

YEAST

1 packet Safale S-05

I mashed the grains for 30 min @ 155F
I boiled 6 gallons wort for 60 min.
I took the SG @ 75-80F
Pitched yeast at same temp
1 week @68F
1 week @60F
Took FG @ 60F

My hydrometer is calibrated to 60F

Do my fermentation stop?
Or do I just have a bunch of Unfermentable sugars?
Would the grains add that much in-fermentable sugars?

I was aiming for 7.5 % and got 5.25%

Any thoughts?
Advice?
Leave it be?

In brewers friend I get 1.060 and 5.87%, Munich malt has the enzymes for mashing but your technique sounds like steeping and not mashing. So it's probable that your OG is not as high as calculated, so in this case go by actual measurements. Why you aren't getting to FG looks like temperature and maybe pitch rates. You want to start colder and end warmer, instead of what you are doing which is the opposite. At 1.070, I'd also increase your pitch rate, there are a million calculators out there online, but to keep it easy, use two packs of s-05 when you go over 1.060 OG.
 
Thanks for advice.
Yes I steeped, not mashed!
I have an extra pack of S-05 I will add it,

Think I will still be able to bottle this weeked?
 
Most likely the result of unfermentables in the LME, higher Starting Gravity then anticipated and a low pitch rate for the yeast.

IMO, I think you fermented backwards... Usually for Chico strains, I ferment at 64 for 8-10 days then let it rise to 68 for a few days to allow the yeast to clean up and get those final points. If it is still in your fermenter, I would suggest letting the temperature rise to 68-70 for a couple of days. At this point active fermentation has ceased, so you won't get any off flavors from the higher temps.
 
the steeping grains are more for color and flavor, very little sugar is contributed.

What you're getting wrong here is that steeping grains add some gravity to the wort. They leave behind non-fermentable sugars that will leave a high FG.

To get a more fermentable wort you need to mash those steeping grains with a base grain like 2 row. This is the main reason for people using extract with steeping grains to get a higher than normal FG.
 
What you're getting wrong here is that steeping grains add some gravity to the wort. They leave behind non-fermentable sugars that will leave a high FG.

To get a more fermentable wort you need to mash those steeping grains with a base grain like 2 row. This is the main reason for people using extract with steeping grains to get a higher than normal FG.


So it is possible that I have fermented all the fermentable sugar and my high FG is the result of the steep?
Therefore no extra yeast would be needed!
But how do I know the difference between Unfermentable sugar and stalled fermentation?
Is there any dangers if I add more yeast and there is no more fermentable sugar in the beer?
 
I'd taste it and see if it tastes good before I pitched the yeast. If it tastes good I'd bottle and if it's too sweet I'd try pitching more yeast.
 
Yeah, north of 1.065 you'll probably want to use 2 packets of 05 next time. Pitch around 63 as it will rise to about 68 during active fermentation and hopefully you can maintain that temp for another few weeks.
 
Raise the temp ~68, let it sit another week, sample it, see what its doing. if it starts dropping, then leave it. Make sure you get a few consecutive samples at the same FG before calling it done. If it stays consistent, then taste it, if you like it, bottle it. If not, then go ahead and try pitching the second sachet of yeast. (Hydrate it first)

Did you hydrate the yeast first?

You said, "calibrated hydrometer" Did you check the calibration? The paper indicator inside can slide a bit from time to time.

Also, I've had issues from where I took the sample in the fermenter giving me false readings. I was .20 points lower at the top, then the bottom. Try taking the sample from the middle of the fermenter.

Check out Brulosophy on pitch rates. Rates are important, but one sachet of 05 hydrated could result in a longer fermentation time. Check out the xberiment. Interesting stuff. Though I bet your beer's higher OG would play a slightly different outcome.

http://brulosophy.com/2015/04/20/yeast-pitch-rate-single-vial-vs-yeast-starter-exbeeriment-results/

Cheers,
Steve
 
I raised temp to 68.
I hydrated some yeast and added.
The ferm bucket airlock started slowly bubbling an hour later.
I figure it won't take long to get to correct FG
I was still hoping to cold crash Mid week and
bottle Sunday.
Not sure that is now possible, but it will have to be considering I already added dry hops.
And I don't know if I should dry hop for longer than 7 days
 
Hours after I added yeast the airlock bubbled for less than 12 hours.
After 3 days of no activity I have started cold crashing.
 
Did you take another gravity reading? Any change?


I did not, I am weary of opening the lid too many times. I can only assume it did Due to airlock activity.
However I will take a reading in the morning for a more definite answer.
 
FG at 1.024
Considering my target FG was 1.013, and I overshot my SG by 10 points think it is done
 
My most recent brew, an IPA, over shot my starting SG. Ended up with 1.080.
Finished. With 1.020
I even used 2 packs of S-05 yeast.

Seems all my brews finish with a lot of Unfermentables
 
Let them sit longer in your fermenter - by longer I mean 30 days. This will ensure you are done the fermentation process. BTW, 30 days on your yeast cake will not effect your flavor.

Good luck and keep cranking out the brews.

PS
When you add in your liquid malt and or dry malt save 1/2 to 2/3 for the last 5 or 10 minutes of your boil. You don't need to cook your pre-mashed malts for 60 minutes, the boil - when using extract - is for the hops.
 
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