Fermentation chamber - heating source necessary?

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ILMSTMF

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Hello,

Got a used mini fridge, STC1000, and wiring ready to go. Question is, do I need to install a heat source in the fridge also? Or can I simply allow the STC to turn off the fridge when target temp is reached?

If the heating source is necessary, can one recommend something specific and easy? I read that a reptile heating mat would work. I'd rather use that then trying to rig a hot light bulb in there. Plus a heating mat would seem to have a smaller footprint.

Thanks!
 
If you ever intend to ferment above your room temp then you'll need to install a heating source. I haven't yet, but will be doing a saison soon and it'll be necessary.
 
Hello,

Got a used mini fridge, STC1000, and wiring ready to go. Question is, do I need to install a heat source in the fridge also? Or can I simply allow the STC to turn off the fridge when target temp is reached?

If the heating source is necessary, can one recommend something specific and easy? I read that a reptile heating mat would work. I'd rather use that then trying to rig a hot light bulb in there. Plus a heating mat would seem to have a smaller footprint.

Thanks!

I have a SOF chamber than I run using a cool-only controller. My basement holds 68 all year rounds so I just use it to hold the temps of my ales down in their optimal range for primary fermentation. Then I'll either bump up a few few degrees or just remove the carboy and let it come up to ambient.

Assuming that you're not trying to do siasons or anything that requires going above your ambient temperature, you'll be fine.
 
I've never needed a heat source in my ferm chamber, but then again I live in Texas where it's *almost* always fairly warm.

In the summer, you probably won't find it necessary. In the winter months, you might, depending on where you fermentation chamber is and how cold the ambient temps around it get.
 
Thanks to all for your insight!

Some more details. It's a sealed fridge (duh) that is outdoors and will probably remain there. Not sure how much external temperature will affect the interior of the fridge but I suppose it's worth considering that as a factor particularly in the winter. That settles it, I'll invest in a heat source. Who can recommend a specific product to do the trick?

PS - temperature probe will be measuring ambient internal fridge temp, I don't have a thermowell (yet).
 
I use a fridge that has been built out with plywood. It is 95F in my garage today so I don't need heating but in the winter I have to as temps drop to the 20's and 30's. So I don't know where you're at but I assume come fall/winter you'll want the heat source.

I intend to swap from a Johnson controller to the STC-1000 wired for heat and cool and using a personal heater from amazon.
 
Thanks to all for your insight!

Some more details. It's a sealed fridge (duh) that is outdoors and will probably remain there. Not sure how much external temperature will affect the interior of the fridge but I suppose it's worth considering that as a factor particularly in the winter. That settles it, I'll invest in a heat source. Who can recommend a specific product to do the trick?

PS - temperature probe will be measuring ambient internal fridge temp, I don't have a thermowell (yet).

http://www.brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html

I'm planning on building on of these for a sour mash chamber I've been sketching out.
 
Hello,



Got a used mini fridge, STC1000, and wiring ready to go. Question is, do I need to install a heat source in the fridge also? Or can I simply allow the STC to turn off the fridge when target temp is reached?



If the heating source is necessary, can one recommend something specific and easy? I read that a reptile heating mat would work. I'd rather use that then trying to rig a hot light bulb in there. Plus a heating mat would seem to have a smaller footprint.



Thanks!


It depends on how cold your ferm chamber might get in colder weather. Especially if it's not in a well cooled/heated living space.
I use a ceramic bulb used for reptile enclosures. There is no light emitted so "light strike" issues aren't a concern. I use a 150 watt bulb in a std ceramic light fixture base.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I've seen the second one used as a heating source in a fermentation chamber.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Warmwave-1-500-Watt-Electric-Fan-Portable-Heater-HFQ15A/202025247
or
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lasko-My...-Portable-Personal-Heater-Black-100/202363459

I'm going to be building mine soon, just have a "chore" from SWMBO first. Something about 100 retaining wall stones sitting in the garage where the fermentation fridge is going. The conversation went a bit like this:

SWMBO: Hey, are you going to finish doing the landscaping?

Me: Yeah, sure uhm....hey are you pretty used to those retaining wall stones sitting in the garage?

SWMBO: Why?

Me: Well....are you?

SWMBO: Yes, why?

Me: Perfect, I'm going to put my fermentation fridge there when I get the landscaping done.

SWMBO: *walks off*
 
My only concern with space heaters that size are where I'm going to put them. The FV leaves very little space inside the fridge once I get the door closed which is why I was thinking a thin reptile mat would be the better choice. But even that I don't know where I'm going to place... Ceiling perhaps?
 
My only concern with space heaters that size are where I'm going to put them. The FV leaves very little space inside the fridge once I get the door closed which is why I was thinking a thin reptile mat would be the better choice. But even that I don't know where I'm going to place... Ceiling perhaps?

I've seen them hung from the ceiling. I'm trying to think...maybe you could hang it from the ceiling but have it hanging so the pad goes length wise along the back or a side wall?
 
Dug through some old threads and some folks are using reptile heat cable. This gets run around the interior walls of the fridge, taped up.

Can anyone speak on their experience with this? Particularly, wondering if there's a suggested wattage to use. Aaaaaaaaand I'm just now seeing reviews on the 50 watt specifically by home brewers who are singing its praises. Before I pull the trigger on buying the 50 watt, anyone care to chime in? Thanks!

25 watt @ about $16
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OVBEEK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

50 watt @ about $22
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIWMS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dug through some old threads and some folks are using reptile heat cable. This gets run around the interior walls of the fridge, taped up.

Can anyone speak on their experience with this? Particularly, wondering if there's a suggested wattage to use. Aaaaaaaaand I'm just now seeing reviews on the 50 watt specifically by home brewers who are singing its praises. Before I pull the trigger on buying the 50 watt, anyone care to chime in? Thanks!

25 watt @ about $16
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OVBEEK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

50 watt @ about $22
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIWMS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I built an controller with an outlet in the back for the fridge and reptile cable. Works great, I can lager near freezing & ramp to whatever I need on the top end. I went with the 50 watt version.



 
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Great photos and thanks very much for confirming this as a good choice! It's settled, I'm pulling trigger on the heating cable. Only problem is... It won't be here until next week, I'm building the temp controller rig Saturday and brewing Sunday. Hoping I can leave the heating source out of the equation for a few days. Not even sure I'll need it. Doing a witbier (extract kit), Safbrew WB-06 which wants low 60's ferm temp.
Good or poor practice? - attach only the cooling source to STC, turns off the cold when 60-ish is reached, cold back on when too warm.

Thanks!
 
That's just fine. I've been doing it for the last 3 months. I can use cold side only as long as I want to keep it under 70~ (my ambient temp this time of year). If I want to go above 68 comfortably, I'll need a heat source.


Is taping to the side okay? Does it damage the plastic sides of the fridge/the tape? Would electrical tape be better?
 
+1 on this heater.

I also recommend an old PC case fan wired to an old cell-phone wall wart for power, runs always, keeps heat stratification at bay.

Is taping to the side okay? Does it damage the plastic sides of the fridge/the tape? Would electrical tape be better?

Tape it to the bucket. Won't hurt anything. But *DO* insulate it from ambient so that you are measuring BEER TEMP and not fridge temp.

Then set the STC to desired BEER temp and let it rip. I can also highly recommend AlphaOmega's STC+ to give you °F and temp profiles
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Good or poor practice? - attach only the cooling source to STC, turns off the cold when 60-ish is reached, cold back on when too warm.

Thanks!

as long as ambient > 60 you're fine. It really just depends on where you are, but this time of year shouldn't be any issue.
 
Hello,



Got a used mini fridge, STC1000, and wiring ready to go. Question is, do I need to install a heat source in the fridge also? Or can I simply allow the STC to turn off the fridge when target temp is reached?



If the heating source is necessary, can one recommend something specific and easy? I read that a reptile heating mat would work. I'd rather use that then trying to rig a hot light bulb in there. Plus a heating mat would seem to have a smaller footprint.



Thanks!


I have the same set-up and my ambient is usually 66-68, which is fine for most ales. I currently have a saison going and have used a heating pad under the bucket to get it up to 80.





Sent by the magic of the wizards who live inside the internet.
 
Tape it to the bucket. Won't hurt anything. But *DO* insulate it from ambient so that you are measuring BEER TEMP and not fridge temp.

Then set the STC to desired BEER temp and let it rip. I can also highly recommend AlphaOmega's STC+ to give you °F and temp profiles

I was talking about what looks like a heating wire on the side of the fridge, not the stc temp sensor...

Maybe I'm just used to using ni-chrome wire in my labs but usually heating wires get damn hot.
 
+1 on this heater.

I also recommend an old PC case fan wired to an old cell-phone wall wart for power, runs always, keeps heat stratification at bay.



Tape it to the bucket. Won't hurt anything. But *DO* insulate it from ambient so that you are measuring BEER TEMP and not fridge temp.

Then set the STC to desired BEER temp and let it rip. I can also highly recommend AlphaOmega's STC+ to give you °F and temp profiles

Agree with all of the above. I have a 120mm computer fan mounted in the door. In addition to keeping even temps throughout, it also helps prevent frost buildup when lagering.
 
redshift, awesome rig! See where your wood block is? That's where my FV would sit. I can't prop mine up on that shelf because the freezer compartment is in the way. My question is did your unit previously feature a freezer compartment up top that you've removed? I might try to do that myself instead (if my fridge allows it). Otherwise I have to remove the door panel to get the FV to fit on the floor of the fridge.

Lastly, how do you have that computer fan rigged? I mean, how is that powered and what is the power supply attached to? Looks like my two outlet receptacle might need to turn into a three total outlet project...
 
I have a 5 cu ft chest freezer, and since the bucket is wedged between the hump and the wall, using a fan style heater overheated the chamber. My best solution is a heating pad as only one bucket will fit in the "bottom".
 
redshift, awesome rig! See where your wood block is? That's where my FV would sit. I can't prop mine up on that shelf because the freezer compartment is in the way. My question is did your unit previously feature a freezer compartment up top that you've removed? I might try to do that myself instead (if my fridge allows it). Otherwise I have to remove the door panel to get the FV to fit on the floor of the fridge.

Lastly, how do you have that computer fan rigged? I mean, how is that powered and what is the power supply attached to? Looks like my two outlet receptacle might need to turn into a three total outlet project...

There was a small plastic freezer compartment that was easily removed.

The computer fan is connected to an old cell charger & plugged into a wall outlet.
 
Oh nice, I'll try removing my freezer compartment too. Excellent.

Sorry to pry, how did you rig the computer fan to an old cell phone charger? I've got those laying around aplenty and with various sizes (micro USB included). That fan, doesn't it just have a hard-wired power cable coming out of it? How would you get power to transmit to that using an old cell charger? Thanks!
 
Oh nice, I'll try removing my freezer compartment too. Excellent.

Sorry to pry, how did you rig the computer fan to an old cell phone charger? I've got those laying around aplenty and with various sizes (micro USB included). That fan, doesn't it just have a hard-wired power cable coming out of it? How would you get power to transmit to that using an old cell charger? Thanks!

Cut off the phone-side-plug of the wall wart. You should have 2 wires. PC fan will have 2 or 3, depending on whether it has a 3rd RPM sensor (typ yellow). Usually red and black which is usually what the wall wart has. Hook red to red and black to black. Some wall warts are only 5V and many PC fans are 12V, but lo and behold many a 12V PC fan will run, slower and quieter, on 5V
 
It's going to be a busy fk'ing weekend...! Thanks all!:D
 
Oh nice, I'll try removing my freezer compartment too. Excellent.

Sorry to pry, how did you rig the computer fan to an old cell phone charger? I've got those laying around aplenty and with various sizes (micro USB included). That fan, doesn't it just have a hard-wired power cable coming out of it? How would you get power to transmit to that using an old cell charger? Thanks!

Just cut the plug off both, strip the wires, connect bare wire leads with electrical tape or heat shrink. I did the same for the 2 fans I have in my keezer:

 
I have brewed saisons into the 30's (ambient) with nothing more then a 40 watt bulb in a chest freezer as heat. To answer your question OP, if you're mostly doing ales and lagers in a fairly stable ambient temp...No. You do not need a heat source. If you want one anyway, a 40 watt bulb is far less dangerous, and far more efficient then a 1000 watt hairdryer or a space heater. Another option is an aquarium heater, or a heating pad. If your ferment chamber is well insultated and sealed, that should be all the heat you need.

I get scared when I'm always reading about space heaters and unsupervised hair dryers in enclosed spaces. Better check the smoke detectors while building that out is all I can say.
 
Thanks for the input jbaysurfer! Saisons in ambient 30's farenheit or celsius? Ambient in the sense of the temperature OUTSIDE of your chamber or the internal ambient temp between chamber wall and FV?

I'll be honest, and I don't mean to discredit the wonderful folks who are daring enough to do try it, but I also get the willies thinking about putting one of those other heating sources in that enclosed space. Fast forward, I decided on getting the 50 watt reptile heating cable. Very very small footprint and should heat efficiently when needed. Also, again, the fridge will remain outdoors in all seasons! New Jersey sees pretty hot summers and winters that average lower than 40F.

Rock and roll!
 
I have brewed saisons into the 30's (ambient) with nothing more then a 40 watt bulb in a chest freezer as heat. To answer your question OP, if you're mostly doing ales and lagers in a fairly stable ambient temp...No. You do not need a heat source. If you want one anyway, a 40 watt bulb is far less dangerous, and far more efficient then a 1000 watt hairdryer or a space heater. Another option is an aquarium heater, or a heating pad. If your ferment chamber is well insultated and sealed, that should be all the heat you need.

I get scared when I'm always reading about space heaters and unsupervised hair dryers in enclosed spaces. Better check the smoke detectors while building that out is all I can say.

Thats why the Lasko MyHeat tiny 200W heater is the best, because it has an auto thermal shutoff. If your chamber gets to like ~110F it will shut off and it wont turn back on unless you manually flip the switch off for 30 seconds then back on. Its the best option IMO, good power, built in fan, and the built in cutoff.
 
Thats why the Lasko MyHeat tiny 200W heater is the best, because it has an auto thermal shutoff. If your chamber gets to like ~110F it will shut off and it wont turn back on unless you manually flip the switch off for 30 seconds then back on. Its the best option IMO, good power, built in fan, and the built in cutoff.

I'm unfamiliar with that particular unit, but it does seem much safer then the 1k-1500W typical space heater unit people are using. I think 200W is overkill as well depending on the size of your space, but if it works for ya...great. The dirt cheap 40W bulb has been with me since my first brew.
 
Thats why the Lasko MyHeat tiny 200W heater is the best, because it has an auto thermal shutoff. If your chamber gets to like ~110F it will shut off and it wont turn back on unless you manually flip the switch off for 30 seconds then back on. Its the best option IMO, good power, built in fan, and the built in cutoff.

The reptile cord in my ferm chamber is plugged into & controlled by the controller. It only turns on for a while then the controller shuts it off until the temp drops a few degrees. I've cranked it up as a test, the cord gets warm but is never at a point where its too hot to touch.
 
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