False bottom holes?

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xgarland77x

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I cut the bottom off a sanke keg and am using a triclover to attach plumbing to the top which has now become my bottom(see first pic).

I want to use the bottom I cut off as a false bottom. I have seen the few threads on here but am wondering if anyone has some advice as to how big the holes should be and how far apart they need to be....

Thanks

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I'm doing the same thing except I will be reusing cooler false bottoms. How do you plan to secure the FB to the bottom of the keg? Sorry, can't help with the hole except there are lots of small ones;)
 
i would also like to know this as i plan to do the same thing. i would imagine you would not need to secure them. they may slide around when you add water and grain. but if you are recirculating your wort and not stirring it shouldnt be a problem.
 
I've read that you want to target for about 30% opening but small enough holes so your grains don't fall through. Something like 3/32" or so. On a 12" SS keg drop you will be placing hundreds of holes in your false bottom.
On-the-other-hand... You could do waht some guys have done here on HBT. Take a very thin cutoff wheel and cut radial lines projecting from the center of the FB blank. You basically cut just enough to get the blade through. (think of thin slices of pie)
I plan to do exactly what you have done for my E-brewery I am building. Let us know what you ended up doing and how it works.
 
One thread proposed to keep the holes about 1/4 inch apart and like you said 3/32 drill bit...the slits seem was easy, I may head to the hardware store to see what they got because cobalt drill bit are not cheap and by my math I should be in the 400 range for holes...I'll post later after I come back from ACE...
 
I bought a blade type thing attached it to my cordless drill and went to town, cut one slit...didn't seem like it would last. I made a design with it kinda like a rim or something...Started to drill holes with these cheaply bits 3/32" from harbor freight worked out well but I had to stop, will post some pics later on...
 
3/32" holes on 5/32" centers, staggered is industry standard.

industry standard or homebrewer standard? that's a lot of holes to drill!
Easiest diy false bottom would be the grinder slotted. I got a apprentace to drill 300-400 hole in thin guage ss sheet for mine, still finishing off the brewery so no info whether it works or not!
 
I like the gun method!!! Seems flawless, haha... Here some holes drilled taking a long time... Hard on the hands!
 
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Mine (ignore the element it was needed to plug the socket that was already in my MLT when I got it)
It has good flow with just water but as I said I haven't tried it with a mash yet.
 
As I understand it most pros use a slotted false bottom, the pub I brew at the false bottom is slots about the same as the thickness of a quarter with about twice that in between slots.
 
1/3 the way...it's way hot and the drill is heating up, gotta rest the tools and my poor hands

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I finished it a couple weekends ago...brewed with it too, worked well, just the first bit had some chunks but I simply put a stainless steel sink screen in front of the stream...

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Brewed with mine for the second time on the weekend. The wort was running clear during the valouf, I had aggusted my crush down a fair bit and I think that helped (hopefully it wasn't the reason for the stuck sparge though!), Did you do a valouf as you mentioned the first bit had a fair bit of husks in it, I always thought this was quite normal and the reason for valoufing the first 2-3 quarts.
 
Hey! Garland77, what are you all using to get from the bottom of the keg to the ball valve? I like the idea of using that as the bottom of an ekeggle, and then using the piece you cut out as a false bottom.
 
clamskittles said:
Hey! Garland77, what are you all using to get from the bottom of the keg to the ball valve? I like the idea of using that as the bottom of an ekeggle, and then using the piece you cut out as a false bottom.

I use a tri-clover clamp or whatever it's called, it may also be called "sanitary fitting", of the 2 inch type, then I put another sanitary fitting which goes from 2 inch to 1in NPT threading in which I attach a elbow to a 12X1 inch NPT Nipple to a 1 inch ball valve to a 1 in NPT downspout. Everything is 316 stainless steel except the PVC downspout... If you have anymore questions clamskittles I'd be happy to discuss, I'll post some pics later that show exactly what my ramblings mean...
 
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