Epsom Salt

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PJM

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When looking in our cupboard I ran across this big bag of what purports to be epsom salt. See attached picture. Can I use this for brewing?
 
Epsom Salt is MgSO4.
Yes, it can be used to boost Sulphate levels, but since you're also raising Mg++ levels at the same time, which is less wanted, the amount that can be used sensibly is limited. Look at Bru'n water's spreadsheet or Brewer's Friend Water calculators to get the drift.

For example, Burton water has a relatively high Mg++ level, as well as Ca++, SO4--, and what not.
 
Can't get picture to load but the package says "magnesium sulfate USP (heptahydrate) 100%"
 
Can't get picture to load but the package says "magnesium sulfate USP (heptahydrate) 100%"

No need for a pic. USP means Pharmaceutical grade. Heptahydrate means that every molecule of MgSO4 is surrounded by 7 H2O (water) molecules. This is the most common form.

So the molecular formula is MgSO4.7H2O

After calculating your desired Mg ppm for your brew, the molecular mass of the whole molecule (including the 7 H2O) is taken into consideration when weighting out the compound.

See this Wiki info for more details.
 
It has limited value in brewing, but can be used occasionally to increase the sulfate level in cases where a "sour" hint of flavor is also desired, perhaps in very bitter and dry IPAs.

You still want to stay under about 30 ppm of magnesium in all cases for flavor reasons, and in large amounts it is a laxative (remember 'milk of magnesia'?).
 
Thank you both. Thought it was probably too good to be true. I'll stick to regular MgSO4.
 
Thank you both. Thought it was probably too good to be true. I'll stick to regular MgSO4.

Typo? You mean CaSO4 perhaps?

Very soft water here, so I use a little MgSO4 in many beers, raising Mg to 10-20 ppm. A pound will last many, many years that way.

For it to become a laxative you really need to add scoops full of it.
 
Oh. Okay. I have used MgSO4 that i got from Moorebeer on other occasions. I thought from islandlizard's post above that the "heptahydrate" part made this different than what I normally use. I have used 2 or 3 grams in both my strike water and sparge water when building water from RO. I'll take a look at the wiki link above.
 
Hepta-hydrate means 7x water. It has no effect, other than adding weight. So less Mg and SO4 per gram compare to lower hydrates or anhydrates.

If you have clear crystals, it is a hydrate. If it's a fine opaque powder it could be an anhydrate, or a powdered hydrate.
I bet the MoreBeer stuff is the same as the bag. It's the most common.
 
Oh. Okay. I have used MgSO4 that i got from Moorebeer on other occasions. I thought from islandlizard's post above that the "heptahydrate" part made this different than what I normally use. I have used 2 or 3 grams in both my strike water and sparge water when building water from RO. I'll take a look at the wiki link above.

It has limited value in brewing, but can be used occasionally to increase the sulfate level in cases where a "sour" hint of flavor is also desired, perhaps in very bitter and dry IPAs.

You still want to stay under about 30 ppm of magnesium in all cases for flavor reasons, and in large amounts it is a laxative (remember 'milk of magnesia'?).

Still, the same advice. It's never, ever, needed. But it can be used to bring a "sour" flavor forward for certain beers. It should not be a routine addition, as malt has plenty of magnesium, and in most beers it shouldn't be used at all.
 
You can get all the sulfate your brewing water needs from gypsum (CaSO4). I can't think of an instance where I have ever needed MgSO4 in my brews. In fact, most of my water additions have only needed CaSO4 and/or CaCl2.
 
'Sour' is a little too limited a description for the flavor imparted by Mg. I suggest that 'bitter' is another good descriptor. In a bittered beer, Mg will be a welcome addition.

While its hard to overdo calcium in ale brewing, it does turn out that yeast DON'T particularly want or need calcium in the water or wort. In the case where you want high sulfate in the brewing water, supplying a portion of that with epsom will produce a notably better result than just using gypsum. Epsom salt is a good tool...just in limited situations.
 
@IslandLizard, they are both clear crystals and look the same. They must be the same.

Below is an example of a recent cascade pale ale I brewed (Yooper's Pale Ale) and the additions to the RO water that I made. Yooper is surely familiar with the recipe! At the risk of taking up too much of everyone's time, it would be interesting to see what changes each of you would make to the water additions and why.

6lb MO
3lb Vienna
2lb Munich
.5lb C60
.5lb C20

RO or distilled %: 100% / 100%

Mash Thickness: 1.5 qt/lb

Total Grain (lb): 12.0

Adjustments (grams) Mash / Boil Kettle:
CaSO4: 3 / 3.12
CaCl2: 3 / 3.12
MgSO4: 4 / 4.16
NaHCO3: 0 / 0
CaCO3: 0 / 0
Lactic Acid (ml): 0
Sauermalz (oz): 4 (2.1%)

Mash Water / Total water (ppm):
Ca: 88 / 88
Mg: 22 / 22
Na: 0 / 0
Cl: 85 / 85
SO4: 190 / 190
Cl to SO4 Ratio: 0.45 / 0.45

Alkalinity (CaCO3): -185
RA: -261
Estimated pH: 5.32


I used EZ Water Calculator for this.

Thanks.
 
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