skinny said:Looks almost identical to mine. Not water tight, but it covers the screw terminals,is splash resistant, and makes it easy to change the element out after it dry fires.
Simple = Cheaperbowhuntah said:Excellent! Once again I was way over thinking things!
This exactly why I did it. Dry fired Monday and brew day was over. All that potting for nothing
Yooper said:I assume that you had a problem with "report this post" vs. reply (possibly on a smart phone), and all is ok in this thread?
Yes yooper, sorry! smartphone and sausage fingers are a bad combination LOL
runningweird said:is this for a through the wall kettle installation?
BigJim_inFLA said:Very nice! Now I know how I will be capping my elements. Thanks.
stevehaun said:What holds the pvc cap onto the element? Unless I am missing something, your approach does not seem to provide much strain relief.
Bobby_M said:A smear of silicone caulk would make it waterproof enough.
What holds the pvc cap onto the element? Unless I am missing something, your approach does not seem to provide much strain relief.
pickles said:I don't understand it either. Does the PVC cap friction fit to the back of the element. Your previous explanation doesn't address it.
Sweet, that's how I felt when I thought of it. I said jeesh I could just do this.... The Guy at Lowes asked what I was doing with that stuff anyway. Being in the Bible Belt I said: uh.. nothin....pickles said:Oh of course the cord grip holds it on, I had a brain fart!
How are you grounding the element and kettle??
ShakerD said:Ding the light goes on.
I guess you could always run a wire down to the bottom collar and put a bolt though it for a ground.
kklowell said:I did copy you...but I added a screw in the side that I tightened until it provided enough friction to hold the cap from moving at all.
Nice neat idea...thank you for it.
forcabrew said:How's this method been holding up for everyone?
No worries, glad to help. I live for the K.I.S.S. approach. Good idea to add a screw.
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