Electric BKs and GFCIs

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bmud0314

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Alrighty, I have been managing full boils (5 gal batch) on my stove thus far, and it has worked. However, I would like to move to the basement eventually. I have been researching and found that GFCIs for 240 are hard to find and expensive. What methods have you guys used? I have seen two guys post that they don't see the need, but I am all for living, and am willing to be be overly cautious. Have any of you wired up one of these

http://www.labsafety.com/User-Attachable-In-Line-GFCI_24536740/?CID=9PP001

Or do you guys prefer the double pole GFCI breakers? They seem tough to find, as they are not in high demand and are very specific (multiple manufacturers each with different styles throughout the years).
 
Someone who knows will be along soon, but I think you probably need 30amp? I dunno though. :(

Good point, I didnt clarify. I am looking at 3500 watts for the BK. 3500/240= 14.58 amps. That is less than 80% maximum amperage (which is maximum for continuous draw correc?) so I should be in the clear with that.
 
Even though a 30A GFCI breaker will work, but that doesn't mean a 50 or 60 A can't be used. Just make sure that you size the wire (from the breaker to the control panel) to the breaker (ie, 10awg for 30 amps, 8 for 50A, etc.). The entire point of the breaker is to protect the wire. In this case the GFCI feature protects you.

For the breaker size calculation: figure out your required current (thank you for using 240V and not 230 or 220 ;) ) and multiply by 1.25. Go up to the next higher breaker size and you're good.
ex) 3500/240 = 14.6 * 1.25 = 18.25. A 20A breaker is sufficient.

BTW, the guys saying they "don't see the need" obviously don't understand electricity, what a GFCI does, or have any common sense.
 
I think the GFCI you listed would work fine.
But for about the same money you can buy the spa panel, and put pigtails on it to make it "In-line". Just put a 3 or 4' whip on the input side that you can plug into your 240v circuit, and you can make the output side as long as it needs to be to get to your rig.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys. While the Spa panel and the GFCI breaker are an option I can use, I am still leaning towards putting the GFCI in the cord on the kettle. My main reasons are 1) I already have a 240 line there (dryer outlet), and 2) portability. If I do it this way, I can brew at a friends place or at a new house (if/when I move) without worrying too much about electrical hookup.
Brew on!
 
I have my spa panel wired in-line. The input to the panel is a short length (4 or 5 feet) of 3-wire dryer cord. The output is my long 10 gauge cable to a female 30 amp, 240 v, 3 wire generator connector. My rebuilt stove has the corresponding plug. I can easily roll up and store the cable/spa panel combination, and only have a short cord attached to the stove to make set-up and take-down easy.
 
Even though a 30A GFCI breaker will work, but that doesn't mean a 50 or 60 A can't be used. Just make sure that you size the wire (from the breaker to the control panel) to the breaker (ie, 10awg for 30 amps, 8 for 50A, etc.). The entire point of the breaker is to protect the wire. In this case the GFCI feature protects you.

For the breaker size calculation: figure out your required current (thank you for using 240V and not 230 or 220 ;) ) and multiply by 1.25. Go up to the next higher breaker size and you're good.
ex) 3500/240 = 14.6 * 1.25 = 18.25. A 20A breaker is sufficient.

.

So if I use this formula, a 5500W BK element gets a result of 28.64, which means a 30A GFI -- right ?
 
So if I use this formula, a 5500W BK element gets a result of 28.64, which means a 30A GFI -- right ?

Yes, that is correct. Use a double-pole (240V) GFCI 30amp breaker. Match the breaker to the panelboard type (ie - GE goes with GE).
 
THX..my panel is ITE from Philly...oh and 10-4 on the 240 double pole...not sure if you can get 120V 30Amp GFCI breakers..
 

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