electric BK

[nbigger]

I am building a electric kettle and want to make sure I have the right parts.
I ordered 2 SSR from ebay: Solid State Relay SSR 24-480V AC, 40A + Heat Sink. I have a PID and thermocouple: K Type Thermocouple (6 ft. cable) English thread (TC-K6)
1 x 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output) (SYL-2352). I have a 30amp GFCI already the only thing I would like to add is a weldless ball valve any one know a good place to get one. Once I get all the parts I will add pictures.

Thanks, Nick

 

[willynilly]

Sounds like you are ready to go!

www.bargainfittings.com

Full SS weldless for like $30??

 

[wyzazz]

You can also get your 1" Locknut and high temp "O" Ring from bargainfittings.com.

 

[nbigger]

Thanks for the link ordered the stainless ball valve kit and the 1 inch nut and o ring. I noticed they have a dip tube on there is that something I can make myself?

 

[IrregularPulse]

Dip tubes can be made for a few bucks with a short piece of 1/2" copper, 1 elbow, some flux, solder and a torch.

 

[wyzazz]

I did mine with a 45* and some 1/2" for a center draw diptube.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I am building a electric kettle and want to make sure I have the right parts.
I ordered 2 SSR from ebay: Solid State Relay SSR 24-480V AC, 40A + Heat Sink. I have a PID and thermocouple: K Type Thermocouple (6 ft. cable) English thread (TC-K6)
1 x 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output) (SYL-2352). I have a 30amp GFCI already the only thing I would like to add is a weldless ball valve any one know a good place to get one. Once I get all the parts I will add pictures.

Thanks, Nick

You didn't mention what heating element you are planning to use?
Are you planning 110 or 220v. You mentioned 2 ssr's so I assume you are planning 220v. If you are thinking 110v, you may have an issue reaching a boil in a reasonable time. Either way, you still need some receptacles, plugs, cable, etc...

 

[willynilly]

Plugs and receptacles... ha ha

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Plugs and receptacles... ha ha

Based on what the OP said he HAD... he is missing many pieces... plugs and receptacles are very basic (and can run into some $ if you are dealing with 30amp twist locs).
Is the GFCI a single pole breaker? Is it build into a cord?
Does he even have access to a 30amp source?

But then, I guess I could have just said something helpful like "Sounds like you are ready to go!"

 

[willynilly]

I love HBT, people are so touchy. I think I actually answered his question, there I go, being helpful Nice quote job, always good to leave out the important stuff.

Don't forget the brew rig, the silicone hoses etc... I don't think that the OP was posting EVERYTHING he has, I could be wrong.

 

[nbigger]

Sorry I did leave a few things out. I have a 220v 5500w element from Lowes. I believe I have a double throw 30 amp breaker. I will have a electrican friend check it all out and make sure it is safe and to code. I have a plug from my old electric dryer that I replaced with a gas one so I was going to use that. I also have a 4x8x6 box that I may use to wire it up in but that will depend on if it will fit ok.
Thanks for all the help, Nick

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I love HBT, people are so touchy. I think I actually answered his question, there I go, being helpful

You were indeed being helpful when you posted a link to Bargain Fittings... Not so much however when you posted the message "Plugs and receptacles... ha ha"

Nice quote job, always good to leave out the important stuff.

And you did.

Don't forget the brew rig, the silicone hoses etc... I don't think that the OP was posting EVERYTHING he has, I could be wrong.

The fact the OP titled the thread "electric BK" and listed specific items and model numbers he has ORDERED... I doubt he has everything else he needs except a weldless valve.

I asked about his electrical "plan" and suggested a few very basic items he will need just to start the dialog.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Sorry I did leave a few things out. I have a 220v 5500w element from Lowes. I believe I have a double throw 30 amp breaker. I will have a electrican friend check it all out and make sure it is safe and to code. I have a plug from my old electric dryer that I replaced with a gas one so I was going to use that. I also have a 4x8x6 box that I may use to wire it up in but that will depend on if it will fit ok.
Thanks for all the help, Nick

Is the old dryer outlet still there and are you planning to use it?
Does your cord have 3 or 4 prongs on it?

 

[nbigger]

it is a three prong and it is still there wired into the box. I am going to move it away from the dryer if I can use it. There is enough wire to move it to the location I would like to brew at.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

You should be able to wire the cord you have from your "control box" to the existing outlet. With a 3 wire outlet, sounds like you are gonna have to plan on a 220v only control box which should work with/for what you have listed.
Unless your electrician friend sees another option (a neutral and a ground in the box or a way to get them), you won't have 110v available in your control box for pumps, etc. Make sure he checks it out for your gfci, dryer outlets can be modified/altered/screwed up by folks switching parts to fit their appliance.

So now that you have power to your control box, you probably want another plug on the end of the cord from the heat element that will plug into the control box. Otherwise the box is permanently attached to your kettle and can't be disconnected for cleaning, etc.

Ed

 

[nbigger]

Ok that’s a good idea I will look into trying to get a 110 line it would be nice to have. When wiring the control box do I need to use solid wire? And the plug for the element what kind of receptacle would you suggest. One more question should I insulate the keg to keep the heat in and what should I use.

 

[wyzazz]

If you want 220, I would suggest having your existing "dryer plug" rewired from the breaker in to a 4 wire receptacle, for a cleaner look. You could split 110 off the 220v line that way. As for wire in the control box I'd use stranded wire, it's easier to bend in the larger diameters/guages. The insulation will help you hold heat and get to a boil faster but isn't necessary with a 5500 watt element. I guess it depends on if you want to make your BK look all shiny and polished, or if you want it to be really efficient.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt, I am NOT an electrician, just an avid DIY'er.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ok that’s a good idea I will look into trying to get a 110 line it would be nice to have. When wiring the control box do I need to use solid wire? And the plug for the element what kind of receptacle would you suggest. One more question should I insulate the keg to keep the heat in and what should I use.

As Wyzazz said, 110 is just one of the 220 lines along with a neutral. Depending on the age of you house and the outlet installation, you may already have what you need. Your electrician friend should be able to take a look and pretty quickly tell you. He can also assess how big a job it might be to rewire the outlet from the breaker panel if you want to go that route.

Use stranded wire inside the box.

I used twistloc receptacles but they are optional. I used them because they are on the bottom of my control box and I was concerned I might have an issue over time with the weight of the cord pulling the plugs out.

Insulation is also optional but it will help you heat faster. One beauty of going with electric is that you don't have to worry about setting the insulation on fire. I used vinyl covered, 1" polyurethane from McMaster. I strap the insulation on so it can be removed while cleaning.