There is a great, clear, idiot-proof guide to creating an inexpensive, DIY floating dip tube that works like the more fancy Clear Beer Draught system at http://think.gusius.com/diy-keg-floating-dip-tube/.
Unfortunately, since I'm likely an idiot, I managed to screw a couple things up. I figured it would be useful to throw this up here, so that you can either get a chuckle, or perhaps not repeat my mistakes.
1.) Using the AliExpress links, order the *exact* parts discussed in the guide. I followed the link for the silicone tubing, and clicked 8mm, thinking that meant 6mm ID x 8mm OD. It actually is 8x10mm. As I noted in a different thread, I tried to use the 8x10mm silicone tubing, but it is too heavy for the buoy to hold up when attached to the dip tube, and either won't float or will turn upside down. Luckily, the 8mm tubing stretches nicely over my 3/8" racking cane, so I have plenty of uses for it around my brewery.
Secondly, you need to order the requested size float valves. I got the MK44 float, thinking that it would work, since it was a little cheaper to order in a pack of 10, than to order 8 MK51s individually. Alas, the MK44s don't float the 6mm tubing, so that's a waste. Unless someone can give me a use for 10 floating magnetic level switches?
2.) To get the 6mm tubing on the damn dip tube, I heated it in boiling water. I'm a pretty big guy with accompanying "too large to be trying to futz with the inside of a keg" hands, so getting the tubing a little bit more pliable helped.
3.) I found that it was easiest to first get the tubing on the dip tube on one end, then pull the bottom end up off the tube up through the keg to attach the float part. That way there is no weight on the tubing when you're questioning your sanity trying to squeeze on that tiny-ass tubing. Once you've got tubing on the dip tube, what worked for me was to thread the tubing through the float valve, and pull the valve out of the way for a sec. Attach your 1" section of 8mm tubing to the barb on the filter, then push the 6mm tubing in through the opening. Then lastly, pull the valve down onto the 8mm tubing on the barb. It was a pain in the ass to try and push the 6mm tubing into the filter with the valve snapped on.
4.) I like to purge kegs by pushing StarSan out with CO2. However, the floating dip tube leaves about 1/2 liter or so behind. If you tilt the keg towards the liquid out side when you're reaching the bottom of the keg, you'll pull all of the liquid out.
5.) I had no issues closed transferring a lager with the floating dip tube. I promptly screwed up transferring a West Coast IPA, but that's because I kept clogging the disconnect poppets, so I don't think that'll be too much of an issue.
6.) The next step is to attach magnets to the valve and the outside of the keg, to try and create a really simple volume indicator.
Unfortunately, since I'm likely an idiot, I managed to screw a couple things up. I figured it would be useful to throw this up here, so that you can either get a chuckle, or perhaps not repeat my mistakes.
1.) Using the AliExpress links, order the *exact* parts discussed in the guide. I followed the link for the silicone tubing, and clicked 8mm, thinking that meant 6mm ID x 8mm OD. It actually is 8x10mm. As I noted in a different thread, I tried to use the 8x10mm silicone tubing, but it is too heavy for the buoy to hold up when attached to the dip tube, and either won't float or will turn upside down. Luckily, the 8mm tubing stretches nicely over my 3/8" racking cane, so I have plenty of uses for it around my brewery.
Secondly, you need to order the requested size float valves. I got the MK44 float, thinking that it would work, since it was a little cheaper to order in a pack of 10, than to order 8 MK51s individually. Alas, the MK44s don't float the 6mm tubing, so that's a waste. Unless someone can give me a use for 10 floating magnetic level switches?
2.) To get the 6mm tubing on the damn dip tube, I heated it in boiling water. I'm a pretty big guy with accompanying "too large to be trying to futz with the inside of a keg" hands, so getting the tubing a little bit more pliable helped.
3.) I found that it was easiest to first get the tubing on the dip tube on one end, then pull the bottom end up off the tube up through the keg to attach the float part. That way there is no weight on the tubing when you're questioning your sanity trying to squeeze on that tiny-ass tubing. Once you've got tubing on the dip tube, what worked for me was to thread the tubing through the float valve, and pull the valve out of the way for a sec. Attach your 1" section of 8mm tubing to the barb on the filter, then push the 6mm tubing in through the opening. Then lastly, pull the valve down onto the 8mm tubing on the barb. It was a pain in the ass to try and push the 6mm tubing into the filter with the valve snapped on.
4.) I like to purge kegs by pushing StarSan out with CO2. However, the floating dip tube leaves about 1/2 liter or so behind. If you tilt the keg towards the liquid out side when you're reaching the bottom of the keg, you'll pull all of the liquid out.
5.) I had no issues closed transferring a lager with the floating dip tube. I promptly screwed up transferring a West Coast IPA, but that's because I kept clogging the disconnect poppets, so I don't think that'll be too much of an issue.
6.) The next step is to attach magnets to the valve and the outside of the keg, to try and create a really simple volume indicator.
