Specialty IPA: Rye IPA Denny Conn's Wry Smile Rye IPA

[SuperX]

Thanks!

OG 1.073. I just went to dry hop in my secondary and took a FG reading... 1.006. This reading was with my new refractometer, adjusting for alcohol using beersmith. I pitched at 60-ish F and kept the fermentation around 60 for 2 weeks then the last week I raised it to 68F. I'll filter next week and pour a sample off the keg to see what FG is on the hydrometer. Can't wait to try it!

The hydrometer says 1.020 for a final gravity. I filtered and kegged it - here is a glimpse of the final product. I'm a bit disappointed that it isn't clearer after filtering and that the hops are still not popping. I think the lack of hoppyness may be a factor of conditioning and carbonation. It gets better every day and has a smooth and creamy mouthfeel.

 

[Denny]

So I found the scale recipe tab in beer smith. If I scaled down to 3 gal batch with the AG version. Shouldn't I get the same results Denny? just less beer

Yep. I think my earlier comment about scaling down was in regards to reducing the ABV of the beer.

 

[juggabrew]

Yep. I think my earlier comment about scaling down was in regards to reducing the ABV of the beer.

sweeeeet! Now I can stick to AG.

 

[juggabrew]

Denny, im bottling today and would like to know how much sugar I should use for carbonation. its a 5.25 gal batch, beer smith is telling me 4oz.

 

[Denny]

Denny, im bottling today and would like to know how much sugar I should use for carbonation. its a 5.25 gal batch, beer smith is telling me 4oz.

Beersmith is a great tool to help you brew the way you want to brew. It is NOT instructions on how to brew. I use 5 oz., aiming for about 2.75 vol. of CO2.

 

[juggabrew]

Beersmith is a great tool to help you brew the way you want to brew. It is NOT instructions on how to brew. I use 5 oz., aiming for about 2.75 vol. of CO2.

thanks. I never added gypsum to this batch but could I add a little to one bottle to see what the difference would be?

 

[Denny]

thanks. I never added gypsum to this batch but could I add a little to one bottle to see what the difference would be?

You certainly can. The only problem will be getting a small enough dose. You'd need approximately 1/50th of a tsp. for a 12 oz. glass.

 

[juggabrew]

You certainly can. The only problem will be getting a small enough dose. You'd need approximately 1/50th of a tsp. for a 12 oz. glass.

cool. I took my last two bottles and put 1/8 tsp in one and 1/16 tsp in the other. I ran out of bottles that were sanitized so we will see how these turn out. From my previous concerns about taste after primary, its a lot better now that its done out of the secondary. hopefully everything comes full circle in a few weeks.

 

[Denny]

cool. I took my last two bottles and put 1/8 tsp in one and 1/16 tsp in the other. I ran out of bottles that were sanitized so we will see how these turn out. From my previous concerns about taste after primary, its a lot better now that its done out of the secondary. hopefully everything comes full circle in a few weeks.

Well, even 1/6th is a lot more than a tsp. in the kettle! I'll be interested to hear your findings.

 

[juggabrew]

Well, even 1/6th is a lot more than a tsp. in the kettle! I'll be interested to hear your findings.

Of course. I'll crack em open after thanksgiving

 

[juggabrew]

Well, even 1/6th is a lot more than a tsp. in the kettle! I'll be interested to hear your findings.

Of course. I'll crack em open after thanksgiving

 

[HappiBrew]

Single infusion mash, one batch sparge is what I do. It's not a no sparge recipe.

Denny, I'm newish to all grain and use your "dennybrew" method. Do you do the typical gallon of boiling mash-out with this and then try to hit a 50/50 mash sparge as mentioned on your site? Seems like the mashout may help with stickiness. And you sparge this with 180 degree water, right?

 

[HappiBrew]

----------------------------
1 Pkgs Denny's Favorite 50 (Wyeast WY2450PC)/Brewtek CL-50 Yeast-Ale

I thought this was wy1450 from Wyeast? Or am I misunderstanding the labeling. And you guys do this with just 1 vial, in a 2-3 quart starter, non-chilled or decanted?

 

[HappiBrew]

no reason to age this one...

i've made it a few times and i like it best fresh - mine is usually on tap about a month after brew day. get it on the dry hops now and toss some in the serving keg when you rack too. i've done 1 oz per 5 gal dry-hop in secondary for 2 weeks and 1 oz in the serving keg with great results...

Sorry to keep blowing up this thread, but if one was to bottle instead of keg, would you simply double the dry hop addition or maybe add a second ounce a few days before bottling?

 

[Black Island Brewer]

Sorry to keep blowing up this thread, but if one was to bottle instead of keg, would you simply double the dry hop addition or maybe add a second ounce a few days before bottling?

Funny you should ask, because I'm toying with the same question. My plan, unless I hear better, is to dry hop per usual in the fermenter, and when I bottle, I'm going to put some hops in a tea bag, drop it into my cooling priming sugar, put the hop bag and priming sugar into the bottling bucket, and then bottle. Hoping to get a similar effect as putting hops in the keg.

 

[Denny]

Denny, I'm newish to all grain and use your "dennybrew" method. Do you do the typical gallon of boiling mash-out with this and then try to hit a 50/50 mash sparge as mentioned on your site? Seems like the mashout may help with stickiness. And you sparge this with 180 degree water, right?

Nope, not any more. I increased my mash ratio to 1.6-2 qt./lb. so I don't have to do the mashout to equalize volumes. In fact, I've found that equal runoff volumes isn't even that big a deal. As long as the runoffs are within a gal. or so of each other there is virtually no impact on efficiency.

My sparge water runs 185-190F...sometimes even a bit higher if I'm not paying attention! FWIW, using my braid lautering system, I've never had a stuck runoff with this or any other beer.

 

[Denny]

I thought this was wy1450 from Wyeast? Or am I misunderstanding the labeling. And you guys do this with just 1 vial, in a 2-3 quart starter, non-chilled or decanted?

2450 was the original number. You're correct, it's now 1450. I use 1 smack pack in a 3 qt. 1.035 starter. Always crash chilled and decanted.

 

[Denny]

Sorry to keep blowing up this thread, but if one was to bottle instead of keg, would you simply double the dry hop addition or maybe add a second ounce a few days before bottling?

Sure, couldn't hurt...and I LOVE roller derby!

 

[hopitude]

So due to having locally grown hops from a good friend I'm subbing Columbus for Centennial and dry hopping with Glacier (because that's what I have). I can't see any issues with the centennial but the glacier....thoughts?

 

[Denny]

So due to having locally grown hops from a good friend I'm subbing Columbus for Centennial and dry hopping with Glacier (because that's what I have). I can't see any issues with the centennial but the glacier....thoughts?

If you use either, you'll be making an entirely different beer. They will have a huge impact. I spent a of time and effort formulating that recipe. If other hops worked as well, I would have used them.

 

[DUKHNTR]

Hey there brew folks. Got some questions regarding this recipe.

I don't see where in the first thread where any sparging is to go on with this recipe? If there is to be, how much sparge water, and at what temp? Also, once sparging is taking place, how long do the grains need to set in the sparge water?

Would a brew in a bag method work for this recipe to reduce the clumping the rye is prone to do?

Also, how is the mashing to take place? I don't understand this part of the recipe:

Step Rest Start Stop Heat Infuse Infuse Infuse
Step Name Time Time Temp Temp Type Temp Amount Ratio
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sacc 0 60 153 153 Infuse 170 22.00 1.35

 

[philipCT]

DUKHNTR: yeah, that looks pretty confusing, but it's just a formatting and notation shorthand deal. Here's what you have:

1. "sacc" = this is the name of your 1st mash step, it's called a saccharification rest.
2. "0 60" - this is a 60 minute mash
3. "153 153" - this step starts at 153 degrees and finished at 153 degrees (F)
4. "Infuse" - this is an infusion step. In other words, put the grain into the hot water
5. "170" - your water needs to be at 170 degrees F before you add the grain so that after adding grain and stirring out the doughballs the temp will settle at 153 (personally, for my equipment, this would be too hot, but YMMV. If the mash bed settles out hotter than 153, keep stirring)
6. "22.0" - add 22.0 qts of water to start this mash
7. "1.35" this will be the ratio of water to lbs of grain (sounds like a 5 gallon batch with 16.3lbs of grain)

Hope this helps!

 

[HappiBrew]

Nope, not any more. I increased my mash ratio to 1.6-2 qt./lb. so I don't have to do the mashout to equalize volumes. In fact, I've found that equal runoff volumes isn't even that big a deal. As long as the runoffs are within a gal. or so of each other there is virtually no impact on efficiency.

My sparge water runs 185-190F...sometimes even a bit higher if I'm not paying attention! FWIW, using my braid lautering system, I've never had a stuck runoff with this or any other beer.

Awesome, thanks. I stayed up reading the entirety of this thread last night and caught where you said that earlier. Really appreciate everyone taking the time to answer questions that have probably been answered a 100 times already. I think I'm ready to tackle this beast now. Love IPAs and this one is obviously homebrew legend.

 

[hopitude]

If you use either, you'll be making an entirely different beer. They will have a huge impact. I spent a of time and effort formulating that recipe. If other hops worked as well, I would have used them.

Thanks for the feedback, I'm not trying to disrespect the recipe with which obviously a lot of r&d has gone into (you don't get a 50+page thread for a sub-par beer, congrats!!). I'm just trying to use what I have, Columbus is an "engineered Centennial substitute" which is why I thought centennial would slot in well, not authentically but well. Glacier.....well yeah maybe that's a mistake, I'll stick to a more appropriate dry hop

 

[Denny]

Hey there brew folks. Got some questions regarding this recipe.

I don't see where in the first thread where any sparging is to go on with this recipe? If there is to be, how much sparge water, and at what temp? Also, once sparging is taking place, how long do the grains need to set in the sparge water?

Would a brew in a bag method work for this recipe to reduce the clumping the rye is prone to do?

Also, how is the mashing to take place? I don't understand this part of the recipe:

Step Rest Start Stop Heat Infuse Infuse Infuse
Step Name Time Time Temp Temp Type Temp Amount Ratio
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sacc 0 60 153 153 Infuse 170 22.00 1.35

I've brewed that recipe more times than I can count and have nev er had trouble with the rye. It's only 18% of the grist. If it gives you problems, you need to look at your system.

Mash with about 1.6 qt./lb. at 153 for 60 min. Sparge with enough water at 185-190 to get your boil volume. The grain doesn't need to sit in the sparge water at all. Just stir the water in, vorlauf and runoff.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

 

[Denny]

7. "1.35" this will be the ratio of water to lbs of grain (sounds like a 5 gallon batch with 16.3lbs of grain)

Hope this helps!

Thanks for deciphering! FWIW, I now use in the neighborhood of 1.6 qt./lb. to mash this.

 

[Denny]

Thanks for the feedback, I'm not trying to disrespect the recipe with which obviously a lot of r&d has gone into (you don't get a 50+page thread for a sub-par beer, congrats!!). I'm just trying to use what I have, Columbus is an "engineered Centennial substitute" which is why I thought centennial would slot in well, not authentically but well. Glacier.....well yeah maybe that's a mistake, I'll stick to a more appropriate dry hop

No disrespect intended towards you, but why not get the right hops and make the right beer? It's really the combo of Columbus and Mt. Hood that make that beer 90% of what it is.

 

[HappiBrew]

2450 was the original number. You're correct, it's now 1450. I use 1 smack pack in a 3 qt. 1.035 starter. Always crash chilled and decanted.

Being my first attempt at a starter (usually just use trusty Nottingham) I was going to buy a stir plate/flask, but the largest my LHBS carries is 2000ml. Would you recommend ordering a larger plate and flask to accommodate 3 quarts,,, doing a 2 step starter, or something all together different?

 

[Denny]

I use a gal. glass jug that used to hold apple juice. It was about $4 and that included the juice! IMO, a flask is a waste of money.

 

[dale1038]

I use a gal. glass jug that used to hold apple juice. It was about $4 and that included the juice! IMO, a flask is a waste of money.

I have to respectfully disagree here. I would order a 4 quart flask from Northern brewer. I slummed it for quite a while with starters, but it's really nice to be able to cook, cool, and ferment in the same vessel. Don't forget the fermcap!

 

[Denny]

I have to respectfully disagree here. I would order a 4 quart flask from Northern brewer. I slummed it for quite a while with starters, but it's really nice to be able to cook, cool, and ferment in the same vessel. Don't forget the fermcap!

It's not like I haven't tried a flask. But I found them fussy about volumes and fragile. I decided that a jug worked better for me.

 

[dale1038]

It's not like I haven't tried a flask. But I found them fussy about volumes and fragile. I decided that a jug worked better for me.

Absolutely! As long as the cat gets skinned. Just replying to this thread is making me want to brew this up again. I think I subbed the yeast last batch and the beer wasn't the same.

 

[HappiBrew]

It's not like I haven't tried a flask. But I found them fussy about volumes and fragile. I decided that a jug worked better for me.

OK, I have several 1 gal growlers that I use for 1 gal BIAB batches. I suppose one of those would sit on a stir plate just fine and I already have bungs and air-locks to fit them.

 

[HappiBrew]

I have to respectfully disagree here. I would order a 4 quart flask from Northern brewer. I slummed it for quite a while with starters, but it's really nice to be able to cook, cool, and ferment in the same vessel. Don't forget the fermcap!

Fermcap? That's the anti foam over stuff, right? I just decided to try out the new Clarity Ferm from White Labs for clarifying. I'll be sure to pick up some Fermcap next time I'm in the store.

 

[Denny]

OK, I have several 1 gal growlers that I use for 1 gal BIAB batches. I suppose one of those would sit on a stir plate just fine and I already have bungs and air-locks to fit them.

You don't need bungs and airlocks for a starter. In fact, it's better not to use them. Use a piece of foil placed loosely over the opening. That way air can be drawn into the starter to help increase the cell count.

 

[HappiBrew]

You don't need bungs and airlocks for a starter. In fact, it's better not to use them. Use a piece of foil placed loosely over the opening. That way air can be drawn into the starter to help increase the cell count.

Right on, that's certainly easy enough. I'm making a cigar box stir plate that will easily fit my growler. So this should be exciting.

 

[HappiBrew]

I am curious though, what the reason for a nearly 400 billion cell count starter is. I'm not real educated on this but most of my calcs have a 1.073 beer in the 250 billion range. I understand it must be recipe and yeast strain specific. Just wondering what this specifics were as they relate to this beer.

 

[Denny]

I am curious though, what the reason for a nearly 400 billion cell count starter is. I'm not real educated on this but most of my calcs have a 1.073 beer in the 250 billion range. I understand it must be recipe and yeast strain specific. Just wondering what this specifics were as they relate to this beer.

The reason? Dozens and dozens of batches of experience brewing that recipe!

 

[HappiBrew]

The reason? Dozens and dozens of batches of experience brewing that recipe!

I understand. I was talking more about the science of it and how it relates to specific flavors in this beer. I'll figure it out though, thanks.

 

[Black Island Brewer]

I am curious though, what the reason for a nearly 400 billion cell count starter is. I'm not real educated on this but most of my calcs have a 1.073 beer in the 250 billion range. I understand it must be recipe and yeast strain specific. Just wondering what this specifics were as they relate to this beer.

I guess my question is for both Yermom and Denny: 3 liters, yes, but on a stir plate? the 400b count looks like it would be 3L on a stir plate. If unstirred, 3L would be closer to the 250b range. Since Denny's reputation is for, well, simplicity, I'm guessing, Denny, that you don't use a stir plate?