Could my crappy non-SS braid be effecting my efficiency?

[neumann]

So when I built my MLT (a la Flyguy), I didn't realize that the supply hose I bought wasn't SS. I've done 6 or 7 batches always getting about 60% efficiency each time toying with one thing or another trying to get a better rate. I've now moved onto looking at my manifold and discovered that it wasn't really stainless steel (it looks to be some sort of braided nylon or something as it is fraying at the ends). I'm going to replace that thing with a true SS braid from a hot water heater supply line anyway because I don't want any issues with it, but should I expect a jump in efficiency? And, if so, what kind of jump are we talking?

 

[balvey]

I would be more worried about flavors coming from it. If you are getting wort out of the MLT then I don't think that would be the cause for lower efficiency.

check out the efficiency thread..

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/maximizing-efficiency-when-batch-sparging-77125/

 

[Revvy]

I'd be more worried about your plastic braid melting and shrinking then leeching anything...you didn't notice the posts in flyguys thread warning folks not to use the plastic braid?

There's even a thread about it today. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/engineered-polymer-braid-vs-stainless-steel-braid-177421/

I'm surprised you've got any use out of it....when it gets hot, it collapses and shrinks, reducing the the size of the tiny holes and the ability for wort to flow through.

 

[passedpawn]

I used a braid and got 70 - 75% consistently. After I got my own mill (Schmidling) Malt Mill) I never get below 80%, sometimes 85%.

I just dumped the braid for a bazooka screen, which is a more bulletproof version of same. I got tired of working out the kinks and crushed sections of the braided hose.

 

[neumann]

I built my MLT from the entry on the Wiki as opposed to the post on the board and I didn't see any warning about the nylon braids. I didn't even know that there was something besides the SS braids when I bought all my supplies. It looked like SS so I bought it. No worries though because I won't be using it for any more batches. If I get better efficiency, awesome, if not, just better to get dangerous stuff out of my beer.

 

[malkore]

Well right now I suspect you're only draining through the end of the hose...so yeah I'd suspect you'll get some kind of increase by going to a true SS braid.

 

[bosco_NJ]

make sure you get the SS braid used for a hot water heater. they are much larger & won't collapse like the thinner ones, mine is 1" diameter.

 

[JerD]

If you've got the time and tempermant, you can make up a copper manifold for a few less dollars. I switched from the stainless tubing and I'm loving it. It was a bit tedious fitting the perfect square in a round cooler. Even though I'm batch sparging, I am getting a few more points on my efficiency.

 

[neumann]

I've got a 3/4" hot water hose but I can't get the dang rubber hose out of the middle. I can't get it to budge at all, the braid is so tight that I can't slide it in any direction. Maybe I will make a copper manifold. I have a rectangular cooler so it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[balvey]

Did you cut both ends off of the hose?

 

[neumann]

Yep. Took a hacksaw to it and went through it pretty quickly.

 

[Revvy]

I've got a 3/4" hot water hose but I can't get the dang rubber hose out of the middle. I can't get it to budge at all, the braid is so tight that I can't slide it in any direction. Maybe I will make a copper manifold. I have a rectangular cooler so it shouldn't be too difficult.

Slow and patient, is the trick. I used tin snips to cut the ends off, but a dremel works great as well.

I forced some of the braid down a bit, then grabbed the hose with a needle nose pliers, then slowly pulled, and every now and then I would compress the braid, then pull some more, then compress, then pull. The braid is similar to those old "Chinese finger torture" toys; when you grasp the ends and try to stretch the braid, it becomes tighter, and when you grasp the ends and push towards each other, the braid loosens.

If you look at the braid you will see it's exactly the same design only around the nylon core. If you realize that, then removing the core from the braid is pretty easy.

From the wiki about the finger trap.

There is nothing special about the bamboo or other material. The tightening is simply a normal behaviour of a cylindrical braid, usually the common biaxial braid. Pulling the braid lengthens and narrows it. The length is gained by reducing the angle between the warp and weft threads at their crossing points, but this reduces the distance between them and hence the circumference. The more one pulls the more the circumference shrinks (i.e. the trap tightens). The same effect is used in specialized textile manufacturing, and by fly-fishers

 

[Revvy]

If you read the thread you will also note that many of us take out the original inner hose and drill a bunch of holes in it til it looked like a machine gun barrell. Then I boiled it for about 10 minutes to help break all the loose threads off it and make sure there was not fibers or anything. And slipped it back into the ss braid. This prevents the braid from collapsing.It also allows you to wrap your braid in a circle if you use a t shaped adapter inside of it.

 

[neumann]

The braid on this is so tight that I can't compress it. I have gotten some needle nose pliers on the hose but the rubber hose seems to tear before the hose budges. I'd like to use this hose cause I did spend $13 on it .