I'm considering getting one of these but I'm a total noob at dealing with electrical wiring. I was looking at the manufacturer's website and was wondering why you guys didn't mimic their diagram. http://www.protectedhome.com/documents/TC9102DHV 120 VAC Wiring Diagram.pdf
Any other help is appreciated. I'd like to get this one, but I keep wavering because I'm not confident with electricity. It kills!
I've wired one of these up and want to configure it to keep a fridge at a set temp.
I've successfully turned off relay2 which I won't be using, but I could really use some help figuring out how Set Point1, High Set Point1, Low Set Point1 work.
I can set the values but I don't understand how they work together.
Could someone post an example to help get me started?
To keep the fridge at 45 degrees:
SP1 = ___
HSP1 = ___
LSP1 = ___
Thanks!
bad coffee said:That is wrong, and totally unsafe.
You never want to leave the 'hot' wire on all the time. The hot wire should be switched by the relay.
If you wired yours with the hot on all the time you should rewire it correctly.
B
Just bought two of these for two 14.8 cf freezers for my garage here in the Chicago area. I work with electrical all the time in my decorating business so i have outlets, boxes, 14 & 12 solid wire, caps and all lying around so this looks like a no brainer to me. Most important is everyone seems quite happy with the results after its assembled.
Whats the best option for the heating element? I assume 14 gauge wire is good for the heater if its only a 4 foot run. Just drop it in the back hinge side between the weather strip like the thermometer?
Take a look at the STC-1000 build threads. They are actually very easy to assemble and operate. I built one into a 2 outlet old work blue plastic box and it works great for running the fridge and heat wraps. They are actually very easy to build and get working properly. I can keep my lager temps at around 45 degrees in the Fla summer heat pretty easilly. I am using a dorm frige made into a blue board chamber and the larger volume makes it a little slower cooling, but once it gets there it maintains it extremely well. My total investment was less than 20 bucks for everything including the STC-1000, circuit box, outlet and cover. I already had a cord and wiring here, so I didnt have to buy any more stuff to get it to work great. Hope this helps to get you back on the path and going again.
Wheelchair Bob
I love this thread! I want to build a keezer/fermentation chamber (basically this http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/The-Mother-of-All-Fermentation-Chillers) and need a controller to run the keezer at serving temp and one to control the fermentation chamber. I was thinking of using the TC-9102D-HV Dual Stage to run the chamber and a STC-1000 to run the keezer. However, if you're Amazon Prime, the TC-9102D is $59 rather than $120. At that price, I could get 2 and run all of it with both. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057APR3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Any other suggestions or advice?
Thank you!
Finally took the time to register here after getting my fermentation chamber up and running.
I owe a HUGE thanks to the posters in this thread, in particular LandoLincoln.
I came into this project with absolutely no electricial knowledge, very little patience and large, clumsy hands. The images and descriptions in this thread saved me a good $50 and have me a solid DIY buzz.
I just got around to wiring the TC-9102 this past weekend for my kegerator/lagering refrigerator. Everything seems to be working right but was curious how you guys have your temperature probe mounted/placed? I just have the PTC sensor that came with the unit. I know this is not supposed to be submerged in fluid, but has anyone built something that just the tip sits in some sort of fluid for a more accurate temp? Any pictures of your placement would be awesome!
Question, I've bought one of these controllers and I was wiring it up here and there when I had some time to sit down. Where is the number 9 wire coming from? Is this coming off of the power plug?
Is there anything wrong with keeping all the pigtails, wire nuts, and connections within the outlet box and having a 4'-5' run between the controller and outlet box?
Tomcat0304 said:Is there anything wrong with keeping all the pigtails, wire nuts, and connections within the outlet box and having a 4'-5' run between the controller and outlet box?
Of course if I have multiple beers that are slightly staggered in fermentation, this isn't a problem, except for the first beer that goes in. Which is just another excuse to continually brew.
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