kal
Well-Known Member
Beautiful stainless panel! Nice work. Amazing how quickly you run out of room isn't it? Mine that I'm working on is 16x16x8 and I'll be using all of it. Yikes.
Kal
Kal
Control Panel
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kal
Well-Known Member
Mike, did you consider punching a hole in the side of the panel at all so that the SSR's sit directly on the heat sinks?
The way you've done is less work of course and was what I was originally going to do, but I'm now considering cutting a hole in the box for better heat transfer to the heatsinks (since there's no extra panel in between).
Kal
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
Cut a recrangular window into that stainless can then add a larger 1/4" thick alumimum plate that will give you 3/4" overlap all around, add sealer for a waterproof seal. Mount the SSR/ SSRD's to this plate with heat paste plus to the heat sinks mounted on the outside of the aluminum plate on the can. Not only will you still have a waterproof can but extra added cooling surface area from the aluminum plate. Clean, simple, waterproof and effective.
kal
Well-Known Member
BrewBeamer: Why not just cut a hole in the enclosure, attach the heat sink to the ensure (with sealer around to make it water proof) and then attach the SSR's directly to the heat sink?
On other words, Why use the thick aluminum plate at all?
In my case my enclosure is 16x7" at the top and I'm putting this massive 12x7x3" heatsink on the top:
Two SSR's will be attached to it.
($10 off of ebay - half the price of one Auber heat sink but probably 10 times the heat dissipation. Of course, I have two Auber 40A heatsinks that will now go unused since I already bought them too ..... <Sheesh>
I'll just use them for some other project in the future.... ).
Kal
On other words, Why use the thick aluminum plate at all?
In my case my enclosure is 16x7" at the top and I'm putting this massive 12x7x3" heatsink on the top:
Two SSR's will be attached to it.
($10 off of ebay - half the price of one Auber heat sink but probably 10 times the heat dissipation. Of course, I have two Auber 40A heatsinks that will now go unused since I already bought them too ..... <Sheesh>
I'll just use them for some other project in the future.... ).Kal
OP
OP
I'm not sure how much heat is actually created, it might be overkill. The stainless is not very thick, maybe 18 gauge tops. POL said his just gets warm to the touch. I like that huge heatsink you got there Kal, very nice.
Mike
Mike
The Pol
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Yah... my little standard heatsink just gets warm to the touch. The thing doesnt get that hot when I am boiling. The standard ones, for those that care, are very sufficient.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
BrewBeamer: Why not just cut a hole in the enclosure, attach the heat sink to the ensure (with sealer around to make it water proof) and then attach the SSR's directly to the heat sink?
On other words, Why use the thick aluminum plate at all?
In my case my enclosure is 16x7" at the top and I'm putting this massive 12x7x3" heatsink on the top:
Two SSR's will be attached to it.
($10 off of ebay - half the price of one Auber heat sink but probably 10 times the heat dissipation. Of course, I have two Auber 40A heatsinks that will now go unused since I already bought them too ..... <Sheesh>
Kal
Kal; after seeing airbalancer's photos in reply numbers 38 and 42 showing two seperate SSR's with two seperate SSR heat sinks I added my reply number 43 about a large aluminum plate to mount his SSR's and both heat sinks onto the aluminum plate. It appears airbalancer did not have one large heat sink to begin with and was already assembled. How was I able to anticipate your one large heat sink you posted in reply number 44 after number 43? I was going off what airbalancer posted in his pictures. If airbalancer had one large heat sink which I did not see in his pictures it would of been a totally different reply by me.
kal
Well-Known Member
Makes sense BrewBeemer: I forgot about that. By bolting both SSr's to one large plate which is then bolted to the TWO heatsinks you're actually using one "large" heatsink to cool two SSRs.
Good idea for him. Assuming he's not runing both SSR's at once.
Kal
Good idea for him. Assuming he's not runing both SSR's at once.
Kal
kal
Well-Known Member
OP
OP
The panel was powered up today, at least with 110 to make sure everthing works. The only problem I had was with the mash sparge switch because I wired both poles to the LED, I need to gete a couple diodes to fix that. Plus I need to learn to program the PID's.
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
That is very nice.
Pat
Pat
kal
Well-Known Member
Beautiful!
I'd recommend putting your RTD's in the kettles instead of inside your control panel however.
Kal
I'd recommend putting your RTD's in the kettles instead of inside your control panel however.
Kal
bakins
Well-Known Member
Way to make us all look bad...
Seriously - wow!
If you have a parts list please share. I know you listed bits and pieces in this threads, but I'd like to have some pointers to some of the other stuff (like thre breakers, switches, smaller relays, etc.). I really like the idea of the control box and the "power" box... Looks easy to work with, etc.
Edit:
I re-read whole thread and dug some on automation direct and grainger. I think I found everything except the 24V transformer. I'll price this out for yucks - I just rebuilt mine, so it'll be a while before I do it again.
Seriously - wow!
If you have a parts list please share. I know you listed bits and pieces in this threads, but I'd like to have some pointers to some of the other stuff (like thre breakers, switches, smaller relays, etc.). I really like the idea of the control box and the "power" box... Looks easy to work with, etc.
Edit:
I re-read whole thread and dug some on automation direct and grainger. I think I found everything except the 24V transformer. I'll price this out for yucks - I just rebuilt mine, so it'll be a while before I do it again.
OP
OP
Quick update, frames welded up and control panel is mounted. I made a quick and easy swivel bracket out of a stainless pipe union. Now to build the HLT and a bunch of plumbing. Out of the 40 feet of square tubing I think I have 3 inches left.
bakins
Well-Known Member
Was wondering could I do all the control side in 120V? Found some 120V switches like yours that can handle 120V at 6.5A, which should be enough for pumps and solenoid valves. This could simplify it a bit - and eliminate the need for pump relays. Also found plenty of 120V controlled relays for the other stuff.
OP
OP
I don't see a problem with that. You would only need relays for the elements.
tipicreeper
Well-Known Member
Nice job Squirrel!
good use of wire way & fusing (breakers).
I like the ops panel seperate from the main control panel.
send a pic of the outside, dissconnect handle.
Cheers
-David
good use of wire way & fusing (breakers).
I like the ops panel seperate from the main control panel.
send a pic of the outside, dissconnect handle.
Cheers
-David
bakins
Well-Known Member
Hey airbalancer,
Do you have some better pics of how you actually did all your outlets? Are they just in the side of the high-voltage box? I see them in one pic, but was wondering if you had some more pics.
Thanks.
Do you have some better pics of how you actually did all your outlets? Are they just in the side of the high-voltage box? I see them in one pic, but was wondering if you had some more pics.
Thanks.
OP
OP
Yea thats them in the side of the electric panel. They are twist lock 30A outlets from HD. Pretty simple install, just drilled the hole with a holesaw and screwed them in place. I did seal them up with some silicone.
bakins
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing this whole box is somewhat shielded from liquid? I'm just worried about some wort getting in "between" the plug and the receptacle. I guess that a very small chance though.
bakins
Well-Known Member
Looked at you site. I like. A lot.
Do you have a plumbing diagram? I'm looking and reading trying to figure out the flows. It looks simple, but I'm dense sometimes.
Thanks for sharing! My wife hates you
Do you have a plumbing diagram? I'm looking and reading trying to figure out the flows. It looks simple, but I'm dense sometimes.
Thanks for sharing! My wife hates you
OP
OP
It's pretty simple actually. The pump discharge either goes throught the HEX or bypasses the HEX and feeds the top of the MLT. The pump return either comes from the MLT or the HLT. The boil kettle is fed by gravity.
Tell your wife no hard feelings
Mike
Tell your wife no hard feelings
Mike
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip on the angled, hinged electrical box. I bought one off ebay last week for $40.
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
What mounting adapters did you use to secure the 22 mm switches to the front plate? I just ordered the same switches and realized I have no idea who sells the mount/adapter.
CodeRage
Death by Magumba!
What mounting adapters did you use to secure the 22 mm switches to the front plate? I just ordered the same switches and realized I have no idea who sells the mount/adapter.
You drill a hole. depending on the model it is 13/16 or 7/8" If they are the illuminated ones from automationdirect then it is 7/8. The switch portion twists and unlocks then pulls away. Stick the switch through the hole, twist and lock it to the base. Then use the base screws to apply tension to the plate securing the switch.
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
OP
OP
If you look on the third page of the thread there is a basic wiring diagram that might help you out.paddy21 said:
Power comes in at the switch then goes to a 30 amp breaker. Then up to a 2 pole mechanical relay that kills power completely via the control panel switch. After the relay one leg (red wire) goes to the SSR then to the element. The other leg (yellow) goes directly to the element.
BTW you mailbox is full
Cheers
Mike
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