CO2 Valve Gone Bad

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Clint Yeastwood

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Last night I put one of my old CO2 rigs in the pool and found it was leaking from a valve. I opened the valve up and put a new O-ring in it, but it's no good. It looks like something bent it in the past.

I have a couple of questions.

First, are these valves any good to start with, or should I get something else? I notice they tend to shoot out little bursts of gas when I turn them. I would guess the natural gas industry uses valves that don't do this. Second, is there any way to put new parts in these things so they can be left in manifolds instead of taking the manifolds apart?

01 14 23 bad co2 valve.jpg
 
"First..." Not enough of that valve is shown to be able to research its reliability, but frankly it doesn't matter as it looks hella old and likely isn't even made any more ;)

"Second..." You will rarely be able to find replacement parts for shutoff valves. The classic is folks wanting to swap out the barbed output brass part for an MFL one. Never happens.

I would recommend replacing the valves with 1/4" NPT to 1/4" MFL versions equipped with internal check valves. Don't buy any barbed brass. If the Morebeer.com site wasn't running pathetically slow I'd find a link for you...

Cheers!
 
I suspect this manifold came from Morebeer. The Teflon tape is neater than it would have been if I had put it together, and Morebeer still sells it.

You can't take the barb off and install a Duotight fitting. It looks like if I replaced this in the 4-valve manifold I pulled it from, and I set it up for Duotight stuff, I would have to spend more than the cost of a new aluminum manifold.

These things are apparently not of the best quality. I guess that's why they're cheap. Instead of buying another one, I'm going to see how well the aluminum jobs work.

I am trying to make sure I have enough Duotight stuff to put a manifold together. I don't want to find out I missed some parts I need to make it all work.
 
"First..." Not enough of that valve is shown to be able to research its reliability, but frankly it doesn't matter as it looks hella old and likely isn't even made any more ;)

"Second..." You will rarely be able to find replacement parts for shutoff valves. The classic is folks wanting to swap out the barbed output brass part for an MFL one. Never happens.

I would recommend replacing the valves with 1/4" NPT to 1/4" MFL versions equipped with internal check valves. Don't buy any barbed brass. If the Morebeer.com site wasn't running pathetically slow I'd find a link for you...

Cheers!
I'm in the
folks wanting to swap out the barbed output brass part for an MFL one.
camp. I've never given a second thought to using brass in a gas fitting. As you are one of my most respected voices on here; What's the story? Any suggestions on my best choice for replacing a brass barbed outlet on a taprite with an on/off with integrated check-valve and MFL?
 
^Holy Cow^ :D

What's the story?

My comment was wrt barbs, not brass per se. In this era barbs are just a pita, when 1/4" MFL equipped valves can use either classic barbs with swivel nuts, or use push-to-connect fittings ala JohnGuest, DMfit and Duotight to make connecting gear easy.

I have a dual-body Taprite for my keezer but I bought it with MFL output valves (that come with internal checks). I also have a Micro Matic reg for beer gas and a few Chudnow regs, both single and dual-body models. All of these use 1/4" NPT valves with right hand threads, so it's a pretty simple matter to find and install replacements if needed - usually the hardest part is removing the old valve if the builder used thread cement.

Anyway... @Bobby_M carries a popular shutoff valve model with integrated check...

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/bv14check.htm
Cheers!
 
I'll have to include it in my next brewhardware.com order... Thanks! Here in Canada, I haven't been able to source a simple shutoff w/ check-valve and MFL... they all either have only a barb, or no check-valve and Taprite's web 'query form' is useless.
 
I am switching everything possible to Duotight and MFL.

I believe I can get two of my regulators to work. One seems to be working now. I should be able to have CO2 and beer gas until I decide if I want any new hardware.

The regulator in the photo may be a Micro Matic, because that's what it says on the dials. I may try to replace the dead gauge or gauges.
 

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