CO2 tank questions...

[s2cmpugh]

Good day everyone. So I'm researching kegging and all the parts and procedures involved. The plan is to purchase this fridge https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/fr...fridge-kegerator-conversion-89013/index7.html and then the keg conversion kit from keg connection. I was going to leave the co2 tank inside so as to not risk cutting a coolant line inside the fridge.

HOWEVER, my LHBS also has kegging equipment, but their website says to NOT put a steel co2 tank in the fridge with the beer as it causes leaks using a brass regulator. Is this true? This guy has already proven to be a bit crazy (ie; xfer beer to secondary as soon as bubbling stops or it will taste bad).

Also, their are different conversion kits for a 2 tap system on kegconnection. Which one do I purchase? I already understand the ball lock vs. pin lock, but I don't see why there is a $50 price difference in the 2 draft systems.

Thanks!
Cris P.

 

[Scut_Monkey]

I know there are a quite a few people that leave the CO2 tank and regulator within the fridge. I do and I have had not problems. I really can't see why the regulator would start leaking unless you had bad seals in it.

 

[superjunior]

same here - no problems

 

[airmek]

I have my CO2 inside with no problems at all.

 

[s2cmpugh]

See that's why I think this guy is crazy. Years ago I worked on pools, and we used CO2 to keep the Ph regulated. The pump rooms that held the CO2 tanks would get rather warm in the summer and cold in the winter time (year round heated pool) and I never had a regulator leak unless we failed to tighten it all the way.

His website says the steal and brass would contract at different rates causing a leak in the threads I guess?

What about the stuff at kegconnection?

 

[veritas524]

For keg connection, are you referring to the dual setup with two regs vs the dual setup with one reg and a manifold? I just purchased the one reg setup w/ the manifold last night for $199 They only charged me $30 to ship to hawaii too!

 

[Snafu]

For what its worth, technically he's correct. A steel cylinder will expand and constrict more than an aluminum cylinder. I believe there may actually be a OSHA regulation against it. ( I work in a cylinder testing facility) the actual issue with that is not the brass regulator, but the brass valve inside the cylinder, its under pretty high pressure (750psi @ 70deg). That being said, I have both steel and aluminum cylinders and yes I've used both in my refrigerator with no problems. I do try to use the aluminum more and the steel only as an emergency backup.

The example you gave with the high and low temps in the shed are slow changes in temps (seasons). For example, you store your steel cylinder in your shed during the summer months, and as you know, here in richmond thats almost always 95+, now you swap out you co2 cylinder in your fridge thats say 45 deg, theres a possibility that the brass and steel will not expand/constrict at the same time and you blow the valve. Its a slim chance, but possible. Brass and aluminum are much better suited to rapid changes in temperature. Just sayin is all.....

 

[Bret86944]

Regardless of the metals there should be a nylon washer where your regulator is screwed onto your CO2 tank (or a built in rubber ring).

 

[GarySBrewing]

Hello, I am new to site so I hate to come across as a know it all, But I have 27 years + experience in the compressed air & gas industry. Snafu, I'm sorry to say you have it backwards, The coefficient of expansion of Aluminum to Carbon Steel is 3:1 roughly, regardless the argument is mute, as the total temperature differential between average ambient and the inside of a kegorator is only about 60 - 70f which really shouldn't have any effect on either the tank, regulator or connection seals as long as regulator nut is tightened to a sufficient torque (50ft/lbs should be sufficient) s2cmpugh don't worry, have a home brew and relax, yes your local guy is a bit of BS artist, but he is partially correct about using a 2nd fermenter to clarify your brew with exception of timing, after about 14 days in primary, trub may impart undesireable flavors to your brew, transferring to 2nd allows longer ferment/storage time without risk of altering flavor, but also exposing your brew to risk of contamination in transfer process. I hope this helps.

 

[s2cmpugh]

Thanks for all the help guys! Sounds like I don't need to worry and just be more concerned about drinking beer out of my own tap!

As far as keg connection, I was looking at the two tap system, but for some reason the price difference b/t some of the two taps is like $50...why????

 

[airmek]

Thanks for all the help guys! Sounds like I don't need to worry and just be more concerned about drinking beer out of my own tap!

As far as keg connection, I was looking at the two tap system, but for some reason the price difference b/t some of the two taps is like $50...why????

Which ones are you looking at?

 

[s2cmpugh]

The top four here for pin lock: http://stores.kegconnection.com/Cat...ck+Kits&searchpath=91338538&start=17&total=26

I just don't see the difference in them except maybe one has a regulator with two separate pressure outputs?

and here for the ball lock kind: http://stores.kegconnection.com/Cat...ck+Kits&searchpath=91336340&start=25&total=41

What makes one all stainless? Are the lines hard stainless steel lines or are they braided stainless like brake lines on your car?? Just so confused...

 

[airmek]

Ball locks are more popular, therefore they generally command a higher price, even used ones.

The biggest difference I can see between those are the taps themselves. The standard taps are the cheapest ones available and are usually chrome plated brass. Brass contains lead, obviously something you would not want your beer coming into contact with.

The more expensive kits have Perlick taps made of Stainless Steel. They are very nice and dont contain lead. Also they are "forward sealing" which means they wont stick like the cheaper ones do when the beer dries inside the spout of the tap. These taps are highly regarded among many homebrewers, including myself.

Another difference is some of those kits have different regulators. If you have two beers and one of the styles does not require as much carbing then you would want a dual body regulator so you can carb and serve at two seperate pressures.

And lastly, the CO2 cylinder itself. Some of those kits use a paintball tank which is less volume and size than a standard 5 pound tank.

"All stainless" refers to all metal that the beer touches in the system is made of stainless steel. Mainly the keg and the taps. The beer hose is still vinyl or whatever the material is that they use to make it.

 

[s2cmpugh]

Sweet, thanks for the help! Sounds like I should purchase the better taps and larger co2 tank kit. Does it really matter what locking style I get? Can you still find parts for both easily?

 

[DocksideBrew]

Just got the double pin lock system with the upgraded taprite doule three gauge regulator and 5lb co2 tank. AWESOME!

 

[s2cmpugh]

Is there really a difference between ball lock and pin lock? Which style is preferable?

 

[airmek]

Sweet, thanks for the help! Sounds like I should purchase the better taps and larger co2 tank kit. Does it really matter what locking style I get? Can you still find parts for both easily?

The pin lock kegs are slightly shorter and slighty bigger in diameter than the ball locks. It only matters if your tight on space. My kegerator holds three ball locks but its tight. I doubt it would hold three pin locks because of their larger footprint.

If space is an issue and you need ball lock kegs, just be aware that there are vendors that have converted pin locks to ball locks simply by changing the attachment fittings. Make sure that you don't buy converted pin locks. Other than that it does not matter.