CO2 tank in or out of refrigerator?
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Suthrncomfrt1884
Well-Known Member
accidentally posted without writing what I wanted.... whoops
Suthrncomfrt1884
Well-Known Member
I don't know how much of a difference there actually is, but then again, I don't know a whole lot about gas. I have two kegerators...one co2 tank in and one co2 tank out. I seem to get the same performance out of each one.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
You should get the same gas out of the cylinder either way. That being said, I did see a big difference in what the high pressure gauge read when it was in the fridge, compared with outside the fridge. A difference of 300-400 PSI. I thought I had a major leak due to the pressure drop from outside to inside.
To make it a non-issue, I simply installed a bulkhead fitting in the side of the fridge. I have the regulator (on the CO2 cylinder) connected on the outside, and then my manifold connected on the inside. Means I can change the tank rather easily now. Of course, I'm still on my first 5# tank. But, I also have two 2.5#, two 20oz (paintball gun style), and a 20# tank for gas. I need to get one of the 2.5# and the 20# filled so that I can put them in the rotation. I'll probably use the 5# up first, before moving over to the 20#. The 5# will be 'backup' for when the 20# needs to be filled. The others will be for when I take kegs elsewhere. :rockin:
I do like how I can glance at the gauges, outside the fridge, and know what's going on. I don't need to open the fridge to see what the gauges read. IMO, that's worth a lot. I do have a second bulkhead that I plan on saving for when I build up a keezer. I just hope to be able to score another 20# tank like I did this time.
To make it a non-issue, I simply installed a bulkhead fitting in the side of the fridge. I have the regulator (on the CO2 cylinder) connected on the outside, and then my manifold connected on the inside. Means I can change the tank rather easily now. Of course, I'm still on my first 5# tank. But, I also have two 2.5#, two 20oz (paintball gun style), and a 20# tank for gas. I need to get one of the 2.5# and the 20# filled so that I can put them in the rotation. I'll probably use the 5# up first, before moving over to the 20#. The 5# will be 'backup' for when the 20# needs to be filled. The others will be for when I take kegs elsewhere. :rockin:
I do like how I can glance at the gauges, outside the fridge, and know what's going on. I don't need to open the fridge to see what the gauges read. IMO, that's worth a lot. I do have a second bulkhead that I plan on saving for when I build up a keezer. I just hope to be able to score another 20# tank like I did this time.
Special Hops
Well-Known Member
The one inside the fridge will show a lower pressure on the gauge but the amount of gas is actually the same.
IN short - It does not matter.
IN short - It does not matter.
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
Where did you read that garbage and why are you dumping it here?
Ambient temperature only affects pressure, not CO2 volume. At 40F, CO2 pressure is around 600PSI. At 78F, around 800PSI. The volume remains the same and the tank will completely empty at 40F.
In fact, I keep my tank in the fridge for one simple reason - my garage often reaches 100+F in the summer. A full CO2 tank can easily rupture the safety disc at 90+F, emptying your full tank.
statseeker
Well-Known Member
I keep mine in the fridge and never had problem one.
Justibone
Well-Known Member
I keep mine in the fridge and have gotten more than the "typical" amount of CO2 one could expect from it. I put that down to luck, though... not to keeping it in the fridge.
I stand corrected. I was thinking of the situation with paintball tanks where lower temps give lower yields (due to reduced tank pressure).
But for keg applications the tank delivery pressure available isn't a factor since they only need tens of PSI. So the state change from liquid to gas doesn't matter and all* the gas will still come out.
But for keg applications the tank delivery pressure available isn't a factor since they only need tens of PSI. So the state change from liquid to gas doesn't matter and all* the gas will still come out.
Where did you read that garbage and why are you dumping it here?
Ambient temperature only affects pressure, not CO2 volume. At 40F, CO2 pressure is around 600PSI. At 78F, around 800PSI. The volume remains the same and the tank will completely empty at 40F.
In fact, I keep my tank in the fridge for one simple reason - my garage often reaches 100+F in the summer. A full CO2 tank can easily rupture the safety disc at 90+F, emptying your full tank.
Where did you read that garbage and why are you dumping it here?
In fact, I keep my tank in the fridge for one simple reason - my garage often reaches 100+F in the summer. A full CO2 tank can easily rupture the safety disc at 90+F, emptying your full tank.
Is that true? I live in Florida and keep my tank outside the fridge in my garage. It used to be in the fridge, but I added a tap and moved the tank outside so I could fit another corny keg in there. It's been that way for 2 years now without a problem, but I am sure it gets to 100F in my garage in the summer. I'll stick a thermometer out there for a few days and see just how hot it gets.
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
pcollins
Well-Known Member
I keep my tank outside of the fridge. Means I can put more beer IN my fridge!!
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I actually asked the people where I get my CO2 tanks filled about this, today... Even with the coming heat wave, keeping the tank outside of the fridge should be safe (99.99% of the time). Provided the tank is in good order. Since most of my tanks are brand spanking new, and handled with respect and care, I'm not overly concerned. I'm actually glad I don't have the AC in right now. Mostly due to the fact that IF I did, my LL would want it off while I'm not there. That means the place would be closed up, turning into a sauna, and probably getting close to the danger zone for temperatures. I actually just checked my weather stations (inside my place) to see what the temperature's have been ranging. So far, I'm well below the threshold where I should be concerned. Not to mention, I've had CO2 tanks in place during those temps. No issues there.
Of course next summer I plan to be in a different place, where I'll be able to maintain a better room temp, and it won't be an issue at all.
BTW, there's a sticker on my 20# tank that says to not store above 125F (filled)... I also do tend to trust the people filling my tank to know their stuff. They have a good number of tanks on hand, with gas in them. So they need to know what the safe temperature limits are for these things.
I would be interested to hear if anyone has actually had a CO2 tank, either new, or with a recent hydro stamp on it, fail due to being kept in the 90-105F range. Not "I know a guy" type deal, but actual, first hand, experience.
Of course next summer I plan to be in a different place, where I'll be able to maintain a better room temp, and it won't be an issue at all.
BTW, there's a sticker on my 20# tank that says to not store above 125F (filled)... I also do tend to trust the people filling my tank to know their stuff. They have a good number of tanks on hand, with gas in them. So they need to know what the safe temperature limits are for these things.
I would be interested to hear if anyone has actually had a CO2 tank, either new, or with a recent hydro stamp on it, fail due to being kept in the 90-105F range. Not "I know a guy" type deal, but actual, first hand, experience.
EisBerg
Well-Known Member
Does the pressure gauge (the regulated/small one) read right when it's inside the cooler? I have been trying to get mine setup up unsuccessfully and curious if my pressure is set correctly. I set it but come back later to find it is higher. I don't know what I am doing yet so some reading up is due.
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
No one said it wasn't "safe". However, you do run the risk of emptying the tank in 100+F heat.
Several folks have posted over the years about ruptured safety discs. For example, a quick google search turned up emptied tank in a ~100F truck.
lamarguy
Well-Known Member
The rubber diaphragm is cold, so it is slower to respond and will tend to "creep up" a few PSI. So, set it a few PSI lower than your target and check it 10 minutes later.
Justibone
Well-Known Member
Depending on your regulator, it may creep a bit after you set it no matter what.
Mine creeps up 1-2 psi after about 10 minutes whether it's in the fridge or not. Sometimes it creeps another 1-2 psi after a couple of hours as well. That might be because it's cheap.
I just set it for 2 psi lower than I want it, and check on it after a couple of hours, adjusting if necessary.
They are not saying that the tank will fail. The tank does of course have a failure point but it is above the temperatures and pressures in question.
What they are saying is the safety disc will rupture and release all the co2, which is what it is designed to do, at a pressure below where the tank is in jeopardy. The disc blows off the pressure well below where the tank should rupture to prevent a deadly situation with pieces of tank exploding everywhere.
It may be that the disc is "Spec'd" to withstand pressures at temps up to 125 degrees, but every now and again you read where one lets go and blows the gas out around 100. I have seen a post on this forum where someones let go inside of a hot car. I would assume the discs are designed in such a way so that as they age they are likely to let go at a lower pressure rather than a higher one. That is why when the temp is getting above 90 or 95 people begin to get nervous over them. They just don't want to lose all their co2.
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