Co2 leak I just can't get completely stopped

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hmmmbeer

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I’ve traced my leaks to a few spots. I have been able to stop all but one of them from my Co2 regulator. I’ve used a little, and a lot of the Teflon tape with ungodly amounts of force to get the seal to be complete but just haven’t been able to get it to completely stop. It’s down to a very, very little bit of a leak but I was wondering if there is some kind of liquid seal I could use on this that the leak wouldn’t bust trough. I have some JB weld, silicone seal, red seal (for a car gasket), and super glue. All this sounds great and all but for some reason I keep getting the thought of rubber cement to mind. If any of these that I have on hand would work (with the gas off while applying it and letting it dry for a day or however long it takes) let me know.

PLEASE!!!! I’m tired of turning on and off the tank when I need it and don’t need it! JUST LET ME POUR IN PEACE!!!
:rockin:
 
its between my shutoff valve and the regulator body. It's hard to explain.

You should have a fiber/nylon washer between the regulator and the tank OR the regulator should have a rubber o-ring in the face of the flange that attaches to the tank.

You should not be using Teflon tape on flared joints. The face of flared joints should mate close enough to form a seal. You can use nylon washers if you choose (I don't have them on mine).

The standard threaded fittings, I usually wrap about 4 times with tape. You shouldn't really have to crank on the wrench to get them snug enough not to leak.

Good Luck.

Ed
 
Correct, I have the washer and such that attaches to the bottle; its the regulator that attaches to my splitter/shut-off valve.
 
You want to be sure that you are wrapping the teflon tape in the correct direction. If all your threads are looking good... both the male and female parts... then with the male threads to your left hand..wrap the tape clockwise about three turns or less. Tighten the fitting but don't over do it. If you still have a leak then one of your fittings is bad and needs replaced.
 
Is this a "don't need to use tape" or a "shouldn't use tape" (ie: it'll cause damage) type of deal?

i've used teflon tape for years. it's a preference thing, really

You want to be sure that you are wrapping the teflon tape in the correct direction. If all your threads are looking good... both the male and female parts... then with the male threads to your left hand..wrap the tape clockwise about three turns or less. Tighten the fitting but don't over do it. If you still have a leak then one of your fittings is bad and needs replaced.

Teflon tape won't damage your hreads/fittings.

On a flared fitting such as MFL, a compression fitting, or a fitting with a washer (like attacking the regulator to the tank, or a garden hose), the "seal" is not made by the threads, but rather by the face of the fittings seating together. In these cases, if you get teflon tape between the mating faces, they can't seal properly and "may" leak.

If you are taping regular NPT fittings where the seal is made by the threads, then teflon tape is perfect. So, if the end of the male fitting does not look like it is machined or otherwise intended to create a seal, then tape away.

Ed
 
You may already do it like this but just in case: When you screw in the valve/fitting with the T-tape on it, make sure you only turn it in the 'tighten' direction, you can't 'loosen' it in order to get the valve handle to line up or whatever. Only tighten, you can't go back.

At work we have some really stubborn spots to get pipe thread seals (like a screw-in heat element in a hot caustic tank) and we have to use both T-tape AND pipe dope. One or the other just doesn't work. You really shouldn't need that here but as a last resort it may be worth a shot. Good luck.
 

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