Cloning HopHands by Tired Hands Brewing Company

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brewed another version of this last weekend. i went with:

80% pale ale malt
15% oats
5% golden naked oats

i always seems to get better efficiency than i plan for with these simple grainbills... got 80% and 11 gallons at 1.052.

also tried 1318 for the first time...gonna let it go for 10 days, dryhop 4 or 5 and keg.
 
exileonmainst said:
What are people's thoughts on cold crashing this beer or fining it?

Mine was done fermenting yesterday and in the PET bottle it was a bright, hazy off-yellow color. Much like the real thing. Last night I decided to cold crash it down to 50 to hopefully compact the trub. This morning I checked it and now it's much more clear and a brownish color. Don't know what I really expected because of course that's what the cold crash does, but it doesn't really look like HopHands anymore. I'm still gonna dry hop it in the keg so maybe it will ultimately look different in the glass, but I'm wondering if I should have left the yeast and stuff in suspension? I used 1318 btw.
Click to expand...

You can use gelatin but it kind of changes the character. I think the yeast in suspension adds to the mouthfeel of the beer and give it a character that gets lost when you drop it all out. You can perceive it as being 'cleaner' but then it isn't as much of a clone. Let it be hazy and beautiful!
 
I wouldnt fine this beer. Ive hit it with gelatin before and, like Mintyice said, the hop character suffered. Cod crashing prior to dry hopping is fine, but its gonna get cloudy again once you dry hop. With time the beer will settle, I dont normally bother with anything other than cold conditioning in the keg, the fresher and less finings the better IMO.

On a recent batch with 1318 I forgot Whirlfloc, now that isnt the best idea. Its soooo murky, brought it to a wedding and it looks like juice and I was worried folks might not dig it. Twas wrong, we kicked nearly 2 kegs at a wedding of only 75 people.

https://instagram.com/p/4cLPrpwd_w/?taken-by=ed_coffey
 
Thanks for the replies.

When I took a sample after the cold crash (prior to dry hopping) it actually looked fine in the hydro jar. Cloudy, bright yellow/orange like it should be. The color of beer in the fermenter always throws me off. I can never predict what it will actually look like in a glass.

Shooting to tap it Saturday or Sunday. The sample was very promising even without the dry hops.
 
Anyone try dry hopping in the primary when you were at 90% attenuation? I did this with a blonde ale with great success. The hops help clear all the yeast, and the yeast cleaned up any oxygen I introduced. The results were a hazy but yeast and hop debris free beer.
 
ryancrook said:
Anyone try dry hopping in the primary when you were at 90% attenuation? I did this with a blonde ale with great success. The hops help clear all the yeast, and the yeast cleaned up any oxygen I introduced. The results were a hazy but yeast and hop debris free beer.
Click to expand...

Yes, Ive done it in the past and with the beer I spoke about 2 posts up. In this case I did it bc I was under the gun to get the beer finished, as well has having 10 gallons in a Spiedel and didnt want to dry hop 2 kegs. It worked well but its not my normal process.
 
I'm thinking about brewing this one but I'm not a fan of centennial (i often get soapy notes from it). So, I was thinking of replacing it, probably with cascade. SWMBO tends to favor the pale ales/IPAs with more of a juicy character. So, I'm gonna go with mosaic in place of the simcoe. Think this will be a good combination for the beer?
 
BumpyAZ,

I just did a version with all Mosaic....it came out good...friends and family liked it....nice aroma and smooth flavor...do what what you want and see what happens
 
Hey guys, pretty new to home brewing and would love to give this a try! I do 1 gallon BIAB. Could someone please tell me the correct amount of grains and hops I should be using?

Thanks
 
Brewed this three weeks ago and it's pretty damn good. Thanks for all the work on the recipe! Now I need to get back to TH for a growler so I can do a side by side. I used 1318 for the yeast and subbed in Mosiac instead of Simcoe. One thing I noticed is HopHands is currently 5.5%. I believe it used to be 4.5% and that's what the clone is targeted as? Could be wrong though. Whatever, I prefer it at a more sessionable strength for I can drink more of it.

I have a question about the head on this beer. Mine really has very little and I'm not sure why. This is my first kegged beer, so I could be doing something wrong altogether. Any ideas? Notes below:

-I really doubt there's a gas leak since it's been on the gas for over a week and the canister isn't empty.
-I dry hopped in the keg and still have all 6 ounces in there (pellets inside a tight knit voile bag) so that could be doing something.
-Initially I put the keg on 25 PSI for a day or two to try to quick-carb it, then I decreased it down to about 10 for the past 6 days or so.
-It feels lightly carbonated in the mouth and will foam slightly when shook, but the head is minimal.
-Next step I guess will be to remove the dry hop bag and maybe shake the keg?

Photo Jul 13, 10 15 19 PM.jpg
 
I may be wrong but I thought SaisonHands was closer to 4.5% while HopHands is 5.5%
 
BA lists it at 4.8%. my latest version with 1318 came in at 5.3%...i'm ok with that.
 
exileonmainst said:
Brewed this three weeks ago and it's pretty damn good. Thanks for all the work on the recipe! Now I need to get back to TH for a growler so I can do a side by side. I used 1318 for the yeast and subbed in Mosiac instead of Simcoe. One thing I noticed is HopHands is currently 5.5%. I believe it used to be 4.5% and that's what the clone is targeted as? Could be wrong though. Whatever, I prefer it at a more sessionable strength for I can drink more of it.

I have a question about the head on this beer. Mine really has very little and I'm not sure why. This is my first kegged beer, so I could be doing something wrong altogether. Any ideas? Notes below:

-I really doubt there's a gas leak since it's been on the gas for over a week and the canister isn't empty.
-I dry hopped in the keg and still have all 6 ounces in there (pellets inside a tight knit voile bag) so that could be doing something.
-Initially I put the keg on 25 PSI for a day or two to try to quick-carb it, then I decreased it down to about 10 for the past 6 days or so.
-It feels lightly carbonated in the mouth and will foam slightly when shook, but the head is minimal.
-Next step I guess will be to remove the dry hop bag and maybe shake the keg?
Click to expand...

Shake the keg. I started dry hopping in the keg and discovered the last of the 4 kegs from a batch would not carbonate. This happened twice, so I thought about it a while and had a eureka moment. The hop oils, after time, created a surface barrier to carbonating the beer. Give your keg a shake at your serving pressure and I guarantee you will hear your regulator putting in more gas. Do this over 3 days, shaking occasionally and you will be carbed perfectly.
 
exileonmainst said:
Brewed this three weeks ago and it's pretty damn good. Thanks for all the work on the recipe! Now I need to get back to TH for a growler so I can do a side by side. I used 1318 for the yeast and subbed in Mosiac instead of Simcoe. One thing I noticed is HopHands is currently 5.5%. I believe it used to be 4.5% and that's what the clone is targeted as? Could be wrong though. Whatever, I prefer it at a more sessionable strength for I can drink more of it.



I have a question about the head on this beer. Mine really has very little and I'm not sure why. This is my first kegged beer, so I could be doing something wrong altogether. Any ideas? Notes below:



-I really doubt there's a gas leak since it's been on the gas for over a week and the canister isn't empty.

-I dry hopped in the keg and still have all 6 ounces in there (pellets inside a tight knit voile bag) so that could be doing something.

-Initially I put the keg on 25 PSI for a day or two to try to quick-carb it, then I decreased it down to about 10 for the past 6 days or so.

-It feels lightly carbonated in the mouth and will foam slightly when shook, but the head is minimal.

-Next step I guess will be to remove the dry hop bag and maybe shake the keg?
Click to expand...


Mine looks similar in color. I put mine on 30 psi for 36 hours then serve. Carbonation was fine.

I get about a half inch to inch of head on the pour but then subsides to what your glass looks like. May be fine.
 
I haven't done a hopstand/whirlpool before so, I just wanted to see if there's a general process for this people are using on this recipe? Should I start the whirlpool at flameout, when I get to 180, or another temp? If I'm not starting at flameout, I assume I should run my cooler until I hit the whirlpool temp, turn off the cooler, add hops and let it go till time is up and then resume cooling? How long of a whirlpool should I do?

Another technique question. Am I OK doing a single mash if I'm targeting 18% oats on the first? Or is everyone doing a protein rest around 120? I'm doing BIAB if it matters. Thanks!
 
BumpyAZ said:
I haven't done a hopstand/whirlpool before so, I just wanted to see if there's a general process for this people are using on this recipe? Should I start the whirlpool at flameout, when I get to 180, or another temp? If I'm not starting at flameout, I assume I should run my cooler until I hit the whirlpool temp, turn off the cooler, add hops and let it go till time is up and then resume cooling? How long of a whirlpool should I do?

Another technique question. Am I OK doing a single mash if I'm targeting 18% oats on the first? Or is everyone doing a protein rest around 120? I'm doing BIAB if it matters. Thanks!
Click to expand...


I did 180 whirlpool/hop stand for 30 minutes. Chilled to 180, added hops whirlpooled and put lid on. I actually swirled it a few times in that 30 minutes. Then chill to 70 after the 30 minutes is up.

Single mash is fine. I did 15% oats.
 
I ended up shaking the keg and the head is better. I heard that "hop oils create a CO2 barrier" theory before, so maybe that's what happened. The head is still not perfect so maybe it just needs a bit more shaking. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
atom said:
BA lists it at 4.8%. my latest version with 1318 came in at 5.3%...i'm ok with that.
Click to expand...

TH's website lists it at 5.5%

http://www.tiredhands.com/cafe/beers/

I do recall it being lower when I first had it around a year ago, but I could be wrong. I suspect the recipe evolves slightly over time though.

Wonder if they use anything other than Pale Ale Malt and Oats? With 1318 it seems hard to get it to ferment down to 1.010 which is what someone said the FG is. Maybe they are using a small amount of corn sugar to dry it out?
 
exileonmainst said:
I ended up shaking the keg and the head is better. I heard that "hop oils create a CO2 barrier" theory before, so maybe that's what happened. The head is still not perfect so maybe it just needs a bit more shaking. Thanks for the suggestion.
Click to expand...

Your welcome. Like I said, set at serving pressure, shake when you remember to, and within about a dozen times or so ( not scientific at this point ) you should reach equilibrium and carbonation.
 
My version of this with galaxy in place of the centennial has been in primary for about 10 days now. Getting ready to dry hop soon and was wondering if anyone has done a two stage dry hop on this recipe? Seems like a ton of hops in the dry hop to me, especially for a pale ale. I'm a little worried about over doing it (don't want it to smell like im dipping my nose in a bag od pellets) and was thinking about putting in half the hops for 5 days and then doing a second dry hop if I'm not satisfied with where it is at that point. Any thoughts?
 
Brewing this tomorrow. Looking forward to this beer. Thanks to Coff, Mintyice and other contributors for what seems a tasty beer.
 
11 gallons into the fermenter with 1318 pitched. Missed my SG by 2 points under. Fermenter is set for 66 F. Now the wait....
 
I have brewed this recipe like 4 times. I usually change the hops/water profile/yeast each time to see what difference it makes. They have ended up all real similar, but havent had them side by side. Do oats produce a unique flavor? I guess im not sure how to describe it, but i think it must be the oats i dont like. I love them for the mouthfeel etc but idk. I am going to a beer festival in SD this month and tired hands will be there so I am crossing my fingers to see what the real thing is like. Anyways my point is my other IPAs turn out alright and the oat based ones are always different, just wondering if people think the oats add flavor or something else is going on.
 
globe said:
I have brewed this recipe like 4 times. I usually change the hops/water profile/yeast each time to see what difference it makes. They have ended up all real similar, but havent had them side by side. Do oats produce a unique flavor? I guess im not sure how to describe it, but i think it must be the oats i dont like. I love them for the mouthfeel etc but idk. I am going to a beer festival in SD this month and tired hands will be there so I am crossing my fingers to see what the real thing is like. Anyways my point is my other IPAs turn out alright and the oat based ones are always different, just wondering if people think the oats add flavor or something else is going on.
Click to expand...


I think the oats definitely add a unique flavor and mouthfeel, one which I like a lot. Tired hands beers are amazing. You should definitely try as many tired hands beers as you can. I have the luxury of living 30 minutes away from the brewery. They tend to have oats and wheat added to a lot of their IPAs and pale ales. Definitely heavy on base malt with no specialty grains and heavy dry hopping. Lots of aroma.
 
Any thoughts on using 002 in this beer? My LHBS doesn't carry wyeast and was out of safale 04. Thanks for the research, tired hands is by far one of the best newer breweries that I have tried, everything they make is fantastic.
 
Jeremym19 said:
Any thoughts on using 002 in this beer? My LHBS doesn't carry wyeast and was out of safale 04. Thanks for the research, tired hands is by far one of the best newer breweries that I have tried, everything they make is fantastic.
Click to expand...

Likely will attenuate more than 1318 and 002 will drop out like a rock when done, so the beer will probably be very clear.
 
I am brewing this up for the second time tomorrow. I bumped up the pale malt to 9 lbs and the flakes oats to 2 lbs (18%). Will hop the same just looking for more oat creaminess and accounting for efficiency loss. My batch came in around 1.042 last time.

Will post back results in a couple weeks.
 
Thanks for the recipe Coff....brewed it yesterday with 1318. Excited to have this for the start of fb season. Everyone do a 2 or 3 week primary?
 
Just kegged a variant on this recipe. 82.5% pale, 17.5% oats. All Azacca and Mosaic in the boil. Dry hopped with 2oz Centennial, 1oz Azacca, 1 oz Mosaic. Fermented 50/50 with 1318 and Brett C. Smells super fruity and dank at the same time. I'll let you know how it is once I tap it.
 
Thanks for sharing this recipe. Had a pretty good first run. As someone who isn't primarily kegging, do you have any advice for bottle conditioning? The finished product was on the dry/bitter side (still freaking great, though).
 
Thanks for the "final" recipe Coff, I'm gonna brew this one again with the changes you noted.

Few clarifications - when you dry hop in the keg do you dry hop at room temp and then remove them? Or at keg temp and leave them in? Also, what carb level do you shoot for? I've heard of a lower carb helping in the creaminess of a beer like this. What psi & temp do you carb it at?
 
cuda6pak said:
Thanks for the "final" recipe Coff, I'm gonna brew this one again with the changes you noted.

Few clarifications - when you dry hop in the keg do you dry hop at room temp and then remove them? Or at keg temp and leave them in? Also, what carb level do you shoot for? I've heard of a lower carb helping in the creaminess of a beer like this. What psi & temp do you carb it at?
Click to expand...

My method:

Purge the keg with O2, bag the hops and weigh it down with a sanitized shot glass or spoon, tie the bag to a keg post with dental floss. Dry hop at room temp (65-70) and shake the keg once a day for 4 days. Take them out after 4 days and fridge it. I shoot for 2.0-2.2 volumes CO2 but that depends on the temperature of your fridge.

Lately I've just been adding the hops in primary towards the end of fermentation but that's just me being lazy. I'll cold crash in the fridge before racking to a keg. I've had problems with too much hop matter getting into the keg and getting pours with hop bits.

Best way is to do a sealed transfer with CO2 from primary to the liquid in post of a purged keg full of bagged/contained hops. After dry hopping, push the beer with CO2 from the liquid in to the liquid out of another purged serving keg. You need to make a keg to keg jumper with 2 liquid posts and tubing though.
 
Thanks. I've done the keg hop at keezer temp until the keg floats but always seem to get a bit of gunk for the first 7-8 pints. I've also thrown the hops in loose before in the primary bucket and was happy with the resulta. Lately with the conical setup I've dry hopped at the end of primary with loose hops but usually end up with some debris that I can't cold crash out that winds up plugging the keg during transfer. I transfer via CO2 from primary to the keg. I don't think I have the patience to burn two cleaned kegs just for one beer.

Always interested to hear somebody's method when theyve totally nailed down the recipe exactly the way they want.
 
dstar26t said:
Ed, can you talk about your procedure for mineral additions? What form of Calcium Chloride you use and when do you add it and the Gypsum if you don't mind?
Click to expand...

Not Ed, but I brew this enough I think I have it dialed it:

I target 120ppm sulfate. I have experimented with 300ppm (perception of drying bitterness went way up) and 200ppm, but 100-120ppm seems like the sweet spot. I target 100ppm Chloride. I use Bru'n water, so salts get added when adding the grains to the mash, and again when I batch sparge. I aim for 5.2-5.4 mash pH, usually planning for 5.3 so it can swing either way. I add lactic acid to both unheated mash and sparge water (typically around 2mL each).

Hope that helps.
 
mintyice said:
Not Ed, but I brew this enough I think I have it dialed it:

I target 120ppm sulfate. I have experimented with 300ppm (perception of drying bitterness went way up) and 200ppm, but 100-120ppm seems like the sweet spot. I target 100ppm Chloride. I use Bru'n water, so salts get added when adding the grains to the mash, and again when I batch sparge. I aim for 5.2-5.4 mash pH, usually planning for 5.3 so it can swing either way. I add lactic acid to both unheated mash and sparge water (typically around 2mL each).

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

It does, thanks. Are you using a CaCl2 solution or the straight LD Carlson prills?
 

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