Gregredic
Well-Known Member
P-J, In regard to the spa panal 50amp GFCI. Could I possible find a 50amp GFCI that I could put in my controller box that would do the same thing? I was just thinking it would be nice to keep weight and bulk down.
You certainly can do that. A few things to keep in mind: The GFCI that you buy must match the mains breaker panel that you have. The wiring to your brewery outlet must match the amps of the breaker protecting it. The GFCI breaker for your mains panel could cost you way more than the spa panel. (Brace yourself!)P-J, In regard to the spa panal 50amp GFCI. Could I possible find a 50amp GFCI that I could put in my controller box that would do the same thing? I was just thinking it would be nice to keep weight and bulk down.
Hi guys, I have not built this yet. I am still gathering info and trying to decide on what I want. I will probably wait and make this a winter project. I brew about once a month right now on my turkey fryer setup, so I am really looking forward to getting rid of these propane tanks. Thanks for all of the info and help to all who responded, especially P-J. I will post pics when its done for sure though.
That is exactly the intent. A small leakage current (0.06A) to ground trips the breaker. It has the same effect as pressing the test button.Thanks P-J.
Is the idea of the E-stop so that you ground out one of the main Hot lines from the 240 and trip the GFCI, in effect killing power?
So I am FINALLY building this rig (just minus the timer, timer power indicator, and the timer power switch). I was running the lines that go to ports 9 and 10 on the PID and my 10 gauge wire doesn't come close to fitting these connections. I check to see if 12 gauge would work, and it will not. Since these particular lines aren't what is powering the SSR, would I have any problems using 14 or 18 gauge computer power cord wires?
Exactly.!tommyk - From my understanding of the wiring diagram, neither wire will be hot going to the element if the switch is in the off position.
tommyk - From my understanding of the wiring diagram, neither wire will be hot going to the element if the switch is in the off position.
You really need to think about it a lot more. If the SSR is not carrying current there is no path for current to flow. Imagine a switch instead of the SSR. If that switch is turned off there is no path for the current to flow.Yes, but if you flip the switch to turn the element on, it will be getting hit with 110v until the PID turns the SSR on to get the second hot wire on (which would then be 220v).
So it seems like even if PID is saying to "not run the element", the element will still be running at half current. Is it really always supposed to be running even if the temperature is correct and the PID is shut off?
That is exactly how it works. The current carried to trip the GFCI is 0.06A.P-J, I have been wiring this system up now for a few days and I am now reaching completion. Am I to understand that the E-Stop switch works by tripping the GFCI? I was sort of amazed at how small the wire on teh 1k ohm 1 watt resistor was when I installed it last night.
Ok.... And when the there is no path for current to flow because the SSR in not conducting? There is no path for current to flow.I think tommyk was asking about "line 1" coming into the element switch and that it isn't going through the controller.
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