Awesome information, thanks!I have one of those, and have used it for ~5 brews now. I made use of the upper port for a hacked reddnek HERMS
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Pros:
- never had a stuck sparge yet. the perforated design has been wonderful, even on a RIS with significant flaked oats
- once heated it holds temp forever
- the thermometer was within 0.5F of my reference temp gauges
Neutral:
- the original 2-piece ball valve is ok, but I found it was difficult to get ALL of the gunk out after my third brew. I swapped over to a tri-clamp style ball and have been happy with the newfound ease of cleaning up
Cons:
- there is always a small bit of weeping from the lower port. it could be possible to eliminate it, but I'm not wanting to deform the stainless by tightening more than the rubber washers being 2/3 of the way smushed
- it's heavy when the 22# of dry grain is wet and it needs to be moved
- you need to use about 10 gallons of heated water to preheat unless you're using a HERMS/RIMS to adjust water temps
Anything specific you'd like to know more on?
without preheating, I was unable to achieve 149F mash temp on a 2xIPA with 22.5# of 68F grain and 190F strike water. all of that insulation was really sucking up the heat.Any idea what kind of temp loss you experience without preheating the vessel?
Ohhhhh ok that makes it easy. I didn't even think about using the hottest tap water. That's a lot easier than trying to heat up 10 gallons of water on the burner and measure out your strike water after.without preheating, I was unable to achieve 149F mash temp on a 2xIPA with 22.5# of 68F grain and 190F strike water. all of that insulation was really sucking up the heat.
I left my wet grain filled tun out on the deck this past early May, with temps down into the 50s at night and mid 60s in the afternoon, and the lid sitting on the top (i.e. not clamped down). temp dropped less than 10F in 16 hours.
I preheat with 130F tap water right out of the faucet, and let it set while I'm making salt adjustments and heating my mash/sparge water
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