Changing camlocks during brewing

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AfroHopster

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Ok have a problem I have a camlocks on my pumps and kettles. Last brew day I was using one pump to whirlpool and when I was finished I needed to swap and put the camlocks and hoses onto pump into fermentation bucket. Problem one is the wort is still 170 hot. Two is it drips and hot wort on floor. So I'm trying to see if anyone has any ideas for my problems
 
Shouldn't be any leaks with a good silicone gasket in there. The gaskets should last forever.

Yea, hot camlocks. You need some silicone gloves. I don't bother with the gloves myself though, kind of a hassle. I can wrestle those camlocks off even on my boiler, but you've got to be quick about it. I only lock down one lever. I brew outside, so a leak here or there isn't a big deal.

If you're clever with valves you might be able to just divert flow here and there without removing tubing.
 
None the camlocksleak, but if I'm taking one off and replacing it with another hose/camlock to change. I burnt my hands 2 times making the shift from whirlpool to fermenter.
 
Shouldn't be any leaks with a good silicone gasket in there. The gaskets should last forever.

Yea, hot camlocks. You need some silicone gloves. I don't bother with the gloves myself though, kind of a hassle. I can wrestle those camlocks off even on my boiler, but you've got to be quick about it. I only lock down one lever. I brew outside, so a leak here or there isn't a big deal.

If you're clever with valves you might be able to just divert flow here and there without removing tubing.

I actually don't understand why everyone buys all these quick connectors, a nice manifold-valve system would eliminate any need to make connections during brew day, or really ever.

But my suggestion is leave your ears about half locked down, be fast, use gloves and practice helps a lot! I've been in the oilfields 10+ years and I can make 4 inch camlock connections in just a few seconds. Find a rock that fits in the palm of your hand, it e'll help a lot.
 
I had that problem with my quick connects.. I got tired of swapping lines and now have 3 pumps with 3 way ball valves on 2 of them so I can vorlauf, fly sparge, whirlpool, and transfer to fermenter all without disconnecting any lines or pumps. Made my brew day much much easier.. just depends on how much you're willing to spend to avoid the hot disconnects..
 
I also have several cheap aluminum cookie sheets that sit in strategic places to catch drips when swapping around hoses. Also found that surgical gloves provide just enough insulation to swap a hot cam lock.
 
Ok have a problem I have a camlocks on my pumps and kettles. Last brew day I was using one pump to whirlpool and when I was finished I needed to swap and put the camlocks and hoses onto pump into fermentation bucket. Problem one is the wort is still 170 hot. Two is it drips and hot wort on floor. So I'm trying to see if anyone has any ideas for my problems


Despite all the other input my question is "why"
are you transferring your wort to your fermentor(s) at 170°?? I'd be much more concerned about oxidation than a few drops of wort on the floor!
 
When I was brewing on a single tier system and had to make several disconnect changes, I had an old beach towel that I folded long ways and just laid it on the floor in front of the ring. It caught all the drips and it went right into the wash after.

The thing that stops a lot of the hoses from draining is to shut the valve on the output of the pump. It airlocks most of the liquid.
 
When I was brewing on a single tier system and had to make several disconnect changes, I had an old beach towel that I folded long ways and just laid it on the floor in front of the ring. It caught all the drips and it went right into the wash after.

The thing that stops a lot of the hoses from draining is to shut the valve on the output of the pump. It airlocks most of the liquid.

Yes I will be making my 3rd purchase from you this week I wish ur store was closer lol. So much want
 
I second the vote for a good pair of high-temperature, silicone gloves. I use mine when switching my QD from the whirlpool port to my plate chiller.
 
After years of brewing, we no longer switch hoses. One trip to the emergency room made an extra pump cheap. We now have a hard piped manifold that we never take apart and clean in place. It is designed for all flows with ball valves. My foot thanks me.
 
I have a single tier with two pumps, one for the water side, one for the wort side.
I only have to change the output side of the pumps until the boil is going and of course once I need to change the input of the wort pump from the MT to the BK the MT is empty.
If I was using only one pump it would be a pita.
Yes, the camlocks are warm but you figure that out pretty quick.
As for the drips, as stated, put something under the camlock area. I use a bucket that is either holding my mash paddle/spoon or sitting around waiting for the IC runoff for clean up.
Take your time, be prepared, and enjoy!
 
I hang on to the silicon tubing and quickly unlock them. The locks don't have enough mass to burn unlike the actual fitting. The silicon tubing is hot but not hot enough to burn.
 
20160601_035018[1].jpg
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/minibv.htm
mini ball valve
works for me
 
I use a small 1pint tupperware container to catch any drips that remain when I'm swapping hoses around.
 
If your leaking from a Cam Lock could it be from the hose. I use Ty Wraps myself and I never have Cam Lock leaks. Now that's not to say I don't spray stuff all over the brewery when I brew but the Cam Locks don't leak...LOL

Cheers
Jay
 
If your leaking from a Cam Lock could it be from the hose. I use Ty Wraps myself and I never have Cam Lock leaks. Now that's not to say I don't spray stuff all over the brewery when I brew but the Cam Locks don't leak...LOL

Cheers
Jay

I use ty wraps (zip tys). Works great.
 

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