Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

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Ok, 3 weeks into bottle conditioning of my WLP-005 high-efficiency take on this after 3 weeks in primary. I tried 2 bottles last week and it was harsh/"green". Seeing nucleation on the inside of my bottles, more towards the bottom; wondering if this is a sign its still not done? Should I throw a bottle in the fridge for a few days and try mid week or give it another bunch of days to mature?

First bottle-conditioned batch (brew partner has a kegging system) so I'm a bit anxious...
 
pvburton said:
Ok, 3 weeks into bottle conditioning of my WLP-005 high-efficiency take on this after 3 weeks in primary. I tried 2 bottles last week and it was harsh/"green". Seeing nucleation on the inside of my bottles, more towards the bottom; wondering if this is a sign its still not done? Should I throw a bottle in the fridge for a few days and try mid week or give it another bunch of days to mature?

First bottle-conditioned batch (brew partner has a kegging system) so I'm a bit anxious...
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3 weeks bottle conditioned at what temp?
 
kapbrew13 said:
Very strange after 6 weeks (3 + 3) it taste harsh/green. Could it be off flavor due to your water?
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Dunno, last batch with my tap water (Porter) was very tasty -- still haven't tasted a 3 week bottle, the 2 week-ers are what was disappointing. I had my hydro sample before conditioning in a wine glass and it was very pleasant, so i'm hoping its just some sort of volatility from the incomplete carbonation process. I guess I'll chill one down and take a shot at it tonight.
 
I've heard darker beers hide some off flavors that lighter beers can't. Do you treat your water. I always use campden. Just a thought.
 
kapbrew13 said:
I've heard darker beers hide some off flavors that lighter beers can't. Do you treat your water. I always use campden. Just a thought.
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No treatment; my water certainly isn't hard (unlike my parent's house) but I'm not sure what else (if anything) could be up with it -- I'll let the thread know the verdict in a few days.
 
Wino24 said:
Hi all....I made this last year...great beer. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has used S-05 in this beer and if so do you think it would taste much different than if Notty was used? Thanks
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gkal1964 said:
Tasting update: Let me start by saying I nor anyone who taste tested this beer is a BJCP judge or even a beer tasting expert. All 4 beers came out excellent and any one of these yeasts works great in this recipe. The overall consensus is that the 1028 London ale was the least favorite but still a good beer, very crisp and a touch drier. from here you really are splitting hairs. If we had to make a decision, the Nottingham would probably be third. we really could not pick a winner between the US-05 and the 1056, both yeasts seem to offer a bit more complexity and the malt flavor of the beer seems slightly brighter with some fruit and floral notes. I have to stress these are very slight differences and taste is subjective. I will say I have made this beer many times and my best tasting batches have been with Wyeast 1056 yeast, the best being a 3rd generation re-pitch. Hope this helps. And thanks again to Biermuncher for this awesome recipe.
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Here is a previous post where I talk about using different yeast strains in this beer. To summarize, the US-05 is excellent in this beer. Good Luck
 
Brewed this with a friend's daughter this weekend. However, I missed the mash temp and ended up mashing at around 150. How do you think this will affect the beer?

Also, OG ended up being 1.044.

We basically brewed it for him. He doesn't like beer much, but seems to like this one ok enough. I'll probalby help him drink it though... Hopefully it will be light, but still tasty.
 
I want to brew this but my LHBS doesnt carry nottingham... any recommendations on either a white labs or wyeast to use instead, or should I order a nottingham online? Thanks!
 
vince805 said:
I want to brew this but my LHBS doesnt carry nottingham... any recommendations on either a white labs or wyeast to use instead, or should I order a nottingham online? Thanks!
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I've used WLP001 Cal Ale for all my batches and they have all turned out great.
 
I brewed this on Fri. and subbed .5 lb Vienna and .5 lb Dextrose (Extract Version) with Notty yeast. I will dry hop with .5 oz Centennial and .5 oz Cascade after fermentation is complete. I hit 1.038 and it tasted great! Can't wait to keg it.
 
Just tasted it flat after crash cooling. WOW, it's delicious. The centennial hops really do make this a unique and tasty recipe. Will definitely be on a constant rotation in my kegerator. Thanks BM!!!
 
Help!

I just brewed this with biab method but it came out only 1.032. I think I should add some dme but I don't know what kind or how much or how to add it since I already pitched it. Wis 1.032 too much different than 1.039? What will it taste like if I just leave it?
 
I came up short like that and just tossed in a pound of corn sugar at the end of boil. It was delicious, but really dried out the finish. Made it even more likeable to some of my Coors drinking friends. You could add the DME and it might not affect it like the corn sugar. I'd do it, since you are going to come up in the 3% range for ABV without it. Throw in a pound. BTW, I just brewed another batch of this stuff, so I'm going on 50 gallons. This recipe will always have a tap on my keezer.

EDIT: You want to boil that pound of DME with a little water, cool it to pitching temps with a cover on it before you add it to the pitched wort.
 
I made this as my first brew ever. Did a 5 gallon all grain batch and hit an OG of 1.045 that fermented down to a 1.004. It was kept in primary for 1 week and secondary for around 10 days, then transferred to keg and force carbonated. I kicked the keg last night (with the help of friends of course) it lasted all of about 6 days! :rockin: I will be making another batch of this very soon, excellent recipe BM thanks!
 
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Two weeks in the primary and my beer has things floating on the surface. Not sure if they're just floating yeast, but does this look ok? There's no webs or anything so I'm hoping it's not an infection. This is BM's centennial by the way, hence why I'm posting it here. Thanks

I used Notty yeast.
 
Ok, so thursday night we will be brewing the Centennial Blonde as our first All Grain brew. After going through the first 15 pages of this seriously long post in search of my answer, i figured i would just post. For a 5 gallon batch, what is your mash volume? And does anyone do a sparge (if so, how much volume there)? Still getting in to the swing of things. Got about a half dozen extract brews under our belt, but this is the first all grain brew with the full setup. Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks,

Chris
 
The sparge is the rinsing of the sugars from the grains. It's rare to not do one, but some people simply use a lot more grain and skip it. There is evidence, possibly anecdotal, that doing a no-sparge batch makes a better beer. It's certainly inefficient.

Otherwise you could figure out your grain to water to a ration of say, 1.3 Quarts per pound. Account for grain absorption, and do the mash. Then rinse with enough water to reach your preboil volume. You could split that amount into two and sparge twice, or sparge once with the whole amount (if you have room in your mash tun). This is batch sparging.

You could also continually rinse by matching the mash tun drain rate with an equal amount of sparge water and collect until you reach your pre-boil volume. This is Fly sparging. I think batch sparging is easier to start with.
 
Here's an interesting decision I have to make:
I'm brewing this (all grain) tomorrow. I had planned on going direct to keg with no secondary.
Due to travel schedule, I can make the transfer to keg either 8, 14, or 25 days in the primary. Of course I prefer the 8 days just so I can start carbing and drinking it sooner but don't want to adversely effect the beer or not give it time to clarify.
This keg will be transported so I want it as clear as possible.
Should there be a noticeable difference between 14 and 25 days in primary?
What do you guys think?
 
depending on which yeast you use I had some funky smells and bitterness from Notty that went away around week 3 in primary
 
Yo, Beav..........i would go with 14 to 25 days in primary. If you can get away with 25 then do it. I do about a month for almost all of my beers. If 14 works better i think you will be OK too. I try to stay away from the one week primary, just too many variables foe me personally. Others do it with success , but I'd rather err on the side of longer in the primary. I would also rather wait on better beer, rather than rush mediocre beer.

Just my 2 cents. Enjoy your brew.........i have this batch in the primary right now.

Peace in the middle east!!!!!!
 
just transferred at 1 week in the primary. my OG(extract was) 1.045 and I transferred today at 1.012... Taste was good... still quite green and almost talked like it was a little carbed.. guess that was because it was so green still. Will let sit 2 weeks in secondary and then bottle!
 
Just brewed this up the past weekend as a last "Ode to Summer" here in Colorado. Overshot my OG a bit (had not done a beer this low, and got quite an efficiency boost with my BIAB setup with such a loose mash!). Came in at 1.045, which should still be fairly sessionable. Smells great, can't wait!!!

Thanks for the recipe, BierMuncher!
 
cyclonite said:
Just brewed this up the past weekend as a last "Ode to Summer" here in Colorado. Overshot my OG a bit (had not done a beer this low, and got quite an efficiency boost with my BIAB setup with such a loose mash!). Came in at 1.045, which should still be fairly sessionable. Smells great, can't wait!!!

Thanks for the recipe, BierMuncher!
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I love when I over shoot the OG! Bonus alcohol never hurt anyone. :)
 
Since the Marine Corps has prevented me from brewing for the last 5 months, I'm going to warm up again with an extract brew of this recipe. I'm pumped about it.

Can't wait to try the all grain recipe, just have a few more things to acquire to have that ability.
 
Missed the OG by 4 points because I left a bit of the wort behind due to the hot break and crud after the boil but still topped off to 5.5 gallons. Looking good.
 
pvburton said:
Ok, 3 weeks into bottle conditioning of my WLP-005 high-efficiency take on this after 3 weeks in primary. I tried 2 bottles last week and it was harsh/"green". Seeing nucleation on the inside of my bottles, more towards the bottom; wondering if this is a sign its still not done? Should I throw a bottle in the fridge for a few days and try mid week or give it another bunch of days to mature?

First bottle-conditioned batch (brew partner has a kegging system) so I'm a bit anxious...
Click to expand...

Tried a 4-week bottle and man did it mellow out! No longer "green"/"warm", smooth and balanced since I overshot the OG. A bit overcarbed, but I'm hoping more of the CO2 disperses into solution over time as well (each bottle has gotten progressively better).

PS-- was done with WLP-007 (not WLP-005 as stated above) and I'm happy w/ the characteristics thus far, if that makes sense.
 
Brewed this as my first All Grain back in May this year and it is definately a very good beer.

Brewing some more this weekend.

My first time breing it I left in Primary for 12 days and secondary for 21 days.

Those who have gone thru a shorter fermentation ....i.e. 7 days primary and 14 days secondary....does it really turn out just as good???

I would like to turn around faster this time if it doesnt effect quality.

Thanks!
 
mgortel said:
Brewed this as my first All Grain back in May this year and it is definately a very good beer.

Brewing some more this weekend.

My first time breing it I left in Primary for 12 days and secondary for 21 days.

Those who have gone thru a shorter fermentation ....i.e. 7 days primary and 14 days secondary....does it really turn out just as good???

I would like to turn around faster this time if it doesnt effect quality.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

When I brew this, ferm 12-13 days, keg and gas for 3 days, turn out great everytime. Done this about 4 times this summer 10 gallon batches.
 
Hi, folks. I just bought m ingredients for this one. I am doing a 10gal all grain version. Did I see right that 10gal only calls for 1 pkg of yeast? I'm now getting worried I didn't buy enough. Am I going to be ok????
 
According to Mr. Malty's Pitching Rate Calculator, your 10 gal version of 1.039 wort only requires 14 grams of 100% viable yeast .. so I think you'll be fine with one packet ;)

Good luck
 

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