Can my house handle EBIAB?

[Kmcogar]

I am a renter and my closest outlet to where I brew does not appear to be GFCI. BUT, There was one day where the circuit turned off randomly. The only way to get it back on was to reset the GFCI circuit in my bathroom.

If the outlet connects to that, would it be ok? Im not sure if i explained that correctly. Let m know if i can provide more details.

 

[doug293cz]

I am a renter and my closest outlet to where I brew does not appear to be GFCI. BUT, There was one day where the circuit turned off randomly. The only way to get it back on was to reset the GFCI circuit in my bathroom.

If the outlet connects to that, would it be ok? Im not sure if i explained that correctly. Let m know if i can provide more details.

A GFCI outlet can protect other outlet that are connected on the same circuit. Sounds like the outlet of interest is on the same circuit as the bathroom. To test, plug a lamp into the outlet and push the "Test" button on the GFCI in the bathroom. If the light goes out, it's on the same circuit and is GFCI protected. Test both outlets of the duplex, as it's possible to wire them on separate circuits, and you want to make sure your brewery is plugged into a GFCI circuit.

A 15 amp 120V circuit would limit you to a max of about 1650W, which may not be enough power for a good boil depending on the batch size you want to do. What batch sizes do you anticipate?

Brew on

 

[jeffmeh]

If we are talking 120v rather than 240v, it is a simple matter to replace a standard duplex outlet with a GFCI outlet. Whether the lease allows for it is another matter, but a reasonable landlord would lilely agree unless he were biased against you brewing.

 

[jeffmeh]

More limiting is how much current you have available to drive a suitable element.

 

[Kmcogar]

Sorry, I forgot to mention. I do 3 gallon batches, so I would start with 4 gallons to boil. I'll be using 120v. I live on military base housing. I'm not sure if they would allow me to change the outlet.

 

[Gonefishing]

Check it as suggested above, but also see if you can determine if it is a 15a or 20a circuit. It may say on the GFCI face, or it might be really easy and the longer slot on the outlet may look like a sidewards T.

 

[sfish]

Most likely the bathroom is wire 15a check if the kitchen is 20a. You could run a heavy duty extention cord to the brew area. And yes it is normal for several outlets to be conected to the bathroom GFI.

 

[AnOldUR]

If we are talking 120v rather than 240v, it is a simple matter to replace a standard duplex outlet with a GFCI outlet.

Or one of these.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Is there a 20 amp circuit available? This would permit 2000w vs 1500. The difference is substantial. Your kitchen may have a 20 amp gfi.

 

[Kmcogar]

OK, so my house is weird. I am stationed in Hawaii in old military housing. The outside outlets are connected to a 20a( I JUST CHECKED) gfci outlet in my UPSTAIRS bathroom. I think I might need to buy that gfci extension cord listed above, just in case. Also, I planned on using one 2000w element. Is this going to be a problem?

 

[AnOldUR]

Also, I planned on using one 2000w element. Is this going to be a problem?

The one from HD is 15 amps. Here's a 20 amp in-line GFCI.

Swapping out the receptacle is cheaper. These are easier and portable.

 

[Kmcogar]

I'll have to disassemble my outside outlet and take a look.

 

[sfish]

You're good or maybe I did not understand the issue.

The outside outlets are connected to a 20a( I JUST CHECKED) gfci outlet in my UPSTAIRS bathroom.

That gives you 20a in the closet as well if you overdraw the 20a the gfi blows and you need to reset.

 

[Kmcogar]

I think I'm good... thanks guys

 

[doug293cz]

With 20A you can run a 2000W element. 2000W is about 6800 BTU/hr. 4 gal of water weighs 4 gal * 8.33 lb/gal = 33.32 lbs. Heating 33.32 lbs of water from 70°F to 212°F would require (212 - 70) * 33.32 = 4730 BTU. With no heat loss from your kettle, it would take 4730 BTU / 6800 BTU/hr = 0.7 hr = 42 minutes. Due to heat losses from the kettle sides and top of liquid, actual heating would take longer. The better insulated your kettle, the less heat loss, and the faster it will heat.

Time to heat strike water to 165°F (with no loss) would be 42 * (165 - 70) / (212 -70) = 28 minutes. Time to heat from mash to boil (with no loss) would be 42 * (212-150) / (212 - 70) = 18 minutes. Realistically, time to heat strike water would be 40 - 50 minutes, and time to boil would be 25 - 40 minutes. Times will vary depending on actual volumes, outside temperature, and wind velocity.

Brew on

 

[Kmcogar]

Doug....you are awesome...... I don't know how you know this but that is some sweet info. Thank you very much. That time works for me! I also have some reflectix insulation around my kettle for when I mash

 

[z-bob]

Do you have an electric clothes dryer? That will be a 30A dedicated 230V circuit. There are 2 different style plugs; it could be either one -- probably 3-prongs in a building that old. That will handle a 5500W heating element easily. (that's what I use to heat my strike water, then I finish brewing on the gas stove or outside w/ a propane turkey burner.)

 

[wzd]

OK, so my house is weird. ...

No, that is actually quite common. Kitchen, Bathroom, garage, and outdoor outlets need to be GFCI. Kitchen is usually wired on it's own, but the bathroom, garage, outdoor, (and sometimes basement outlets) are often on one GFCI circuit with the GFCI in the 'first' one. 'First' being the closed to the panel, and then all the others are wired in a way that the GFCI protects them. The wire is usually cheaper than a GFCI outlets for each one!

As mentioned by others, check using the test/reset buttons on the GFCI and if they work as an on/off switch for the other outlet, then the other outlet is protected by that GFCI.