ParanoidAndroid
Well-Known Member
I've brewed over 10 batches of beer that have been dumped. Thats 1.5 years of brewing for me. I've made a few threads on it, so I wont go into finer details. I started out with a three vessel system and batch sparging. I'm now doing BIAB in a single vessel because I wanted to cut down on variables. The off taste was hard to knock down, but it was terrible; almost a combination of all the off flavors.
The reason I ask is I just brewed a SMaSH IPA in my old 4 gallon pot and it actually tastes decent and is drinkable; nothing like the others. I tried anything and everything to pinpoint the cause of the off flavor, and the only constants every time were the keggle that was used, and the copper immersion chiller (I even pre-boiled the chiller one time to make sure that wasn't it). I didn't use the chiller on the SMaSH and the recipe was just a scaled down 5 gallon BIAB.
Is there a certain keg that is not suitable for boiling in?
Things I do:
-Use 100% RO water and use EZ water for mineral/acid addition (so not a water problem)
-Use Ph meter and calibrate every time (so not a mash ph problem)
-Use Thermapen, which is the most accurate therm you can buy (so not a mash temp prob)
-Run through mill twice (getting 75% eff)
-Dedicated ferm chamber with thermowell that sits in wort (so not a ferm temp problem)
-Use yeast calcs (so not an underpitch problem)
I've also dismantled and cleaned/disinfected all fittings, use a sump pump in ice to get to pitching temp quickly, ferment on lower end of range,
The reason I ask is I just brewed a SMaSH IPA in my old 4 gallon pot and it actually tastes decent and is drinkable; nothing like the others. I tried anything and everything to pinpoint the cause of the off flavor, and the only constants every time were the keggle that was used, and the copper immersion chiller (I even pre-boiled the chiller one time to make sure that wasn't it). I didn't use the chiller on the SMaSH and the recipe was just a scaled down 5 gallon BIAB.
Is there a certain keg that is not suitable for boiling in?
Things I do:
-Use 100% RO water and use EZ water for mineral/acid addition (so not a water problem)
-Use Ph meter and calibrate every time (so not a mash ph problem)
-Use Thermapen, which is the most accurate therm you can buy (so not a mash temp prob)
-Run through mill twice (getting 75% eff)
-Dedicated ferm chamber with thermowell that sits in wort (so not a ferm temp problem)
-Use yeast calcs (so not an underpitch problem)
I've also dismantled and cleaned/disinfected all fittings, use a sump pump in ice to get to pitching temp quickly, ferment on lower end of range,