Building my first Jocky Box / portable keezer

[Justintoxicated]

I'm in the process of cleaning out a soda plate chiller I got for free. It's a beast and weighs 37 lbs!

2017-08-20_11-42-49 by glamisduner, on Flickr

I cleaned all these adapters with a barkeepers friend soak and brushing (inside and out!), i think they are these https://www.chicompany.net/index.ph...ucts_id=3368&zenid=kqkcqa97of8cu5uqin5qk35r74

: adapters by glamisduner, on Flickr

The nuts on the barbs are a bit ruff, but the nuts don't really make contact with the beer, so I might just use them (except for a couple that were really corroded or broken), the posts are SS and cleaned up fine. I plan to replace all the nylon seals that go between the barb and the adapter above.

2017-08-20_11-49-10 by glamisduner, on Flickr


Cleaned the plate chiller with very very hot 190 degree PBW wash, then starsan, then flushed with distilled. I boiled water, poured it into a balllock keg, added pbw, and used my air compressor (with filters) to push the mixture through the block. The amount of pressure required was a bit too much for the hot water and tubing and I broke a few lines (so this is dangerous!)

2017-08-20_11-43-33 by glamisduner, on Flickr

I was going to build a portable kegerator (cooler that fits 2 small kegs inside it), but since I got this plate, I figured I would build a 2 tap box that could run the chiller, or hold 2 2.5 gallon kegs, depending on where I was going to take it. I was lead to believe that this cooler could hold 2 2.5 gallon AIH rubber handle kegs. (this thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=6302871&postcount=383)

So I went to costco to get the new updated version.
I selected the igloo maxcold 60 on wheels.

I'm a little disappointed with it.

Old vs new
igloo coolers by glamisduner, on Flickr

The wheels are narrower and more flimsy.
wheels by glamisduner, on Flickr

The old version wheels are enforced all the way to the outside of the rim, And the wheel itself is made of rubber, not plastic, and they are wider! I think this might matter with a 40 lb plate inside the cooler!
2017-08-20_11-46-41 by glamisduner, on Flickr

Plastic wheel
2017-08-20_11-46-56 by glamisduner, on Flickr

The handles are also not as nice, as there is no grip to wrap your fingers around, just an indentation.

2017-08-20_11-44-04 by glamisduner, on Flickr

I might take the new version back and just try to clean up the old cooler that has been serving me well. I really wanted a new cooler but the old one is better quality for sure. Although, if you ca only find the new one it would probably work fine. But this setup is going to be heavy, so the better wheels and handles will be nice to have!




I have a question, the large side of the adapters in the picture also have a nylon bushing, but these bushings are stuck inside the cold pate. I tried to remove one and it wouldn't budge. Should I just leave them in there if they are not leaking? Some of them were pretty discolored from the soda (I think).

Also, how do I know I got the plate clean enough? it still had soda sitting in it from who knows how long ago! Gross!

Also if anyone has experience with these things, this is a 6 port chiller, does that mean I can do 6 taps total? I could do double passes if I do a 3 tap. 3 passes if I do a 2 tap. I was planning on doing 3 passes because why not? Is this a bad idea for any reason? I could put in a 3rd tap, but it would have to be plugged when using this setup to hold 2.5 gallon kegs (there isn't enough space for the 3rd tap in this configuration.)


Thanks in advance!

 

[microbusbrewery]

I built a four tap using a 7 circuit cold plate a while back (http://www.microbusbrewery.org/2015/11/steel-belted-jockey-box-build.html) and I'm getting ready to start on another one soon. I'd replace the bushings; they may not be leaking now, but they're cheap and you don't want to have to tear it all down again if they start leaking or cause off flavors. A dental pick style tool should help get them out. Soaking the entire cold plate in water should help loosen any dried sugar. That'll also help remove residue from the lines, although they're probably pretty clean based on what you've done so far.

I did a double pass on three taps and a single on one. I would not advise doing a triple pass because you will have a ton of line resistance. I ended up using 1/4" tubing on most of mine after experiencing too much resistance with 3/16 tubing.

I'm not sure if I misunderstood...are you planning on having the cold plate and a couple small kegs in the jockey box?

 

[Justintoxicated]

I built a four tap using a 7 circuit cold plate a while back (http://www.microbusbrewery.org/2015/11/steel-belted-jockey-box-build.html) and I'm getting ready to start on another one soon. I'd replace the bushings; they may not be leaking now, but they're cheap and you don't want to have to tear it all down again if they start leaking or cause off flavors. A dental pick style tool should help get them out. Soaking the entire cold plate in water should help loosen any dried sugar. That'll also help remove residue from the lines, although they're probably pretty clean based on what you've done so far.

I did a double pass on three taps and a single on one. I would not advise doing a triple pass because you will have a ton of line resistance. I ended up using 1/4" tubing on most of mine after experiencing too much resistance with 3/16 tubing.

I'm not sure if I misunderstood...are you planning on having the cold plate and a couple small kegs in the jockey box?

microbusbrewery, I tried a dental pick to remove them when I first removed the posts but I could not get them out they were pressed in there really good. I had to use a mallet just to pop the barbs out of the swivel nuts. Maybe a knife for something to cut them out would work, but then I worry about scratching the sealing surface or making things worse? Do you know what size bushing they are? I'm placing an order online and will order replacements (even if I can't figure out a way to get them out right now).


Ok I might test with 3 passes to see what it works like, but I hear you on the line resistance. I will starting looking for some kind of plug to seal the last 2 ports then. Couldn't you just crank of the CO2 higher though? I was able to get a good flow with all 6 ports at about 20-25 psi.

I am hoping to build the box such that it can hold 2 2.5 gallon kegs (For camping where the kegs need to be kept cold for a couple days) or using this cold plate for other times when I will be serving the beer at parties or events that do not extend days. (probably using 5 gallons kegs for these).

So I could set it up for 3 taps, but one of the taps will be in the way of the kegs when I put them in (I would need to remove and plug it when switching out the plate for kegs).

I suppose I could just build a 3 tap later and have dedicated portable keezer and dedicated 3 tap jocky box. But for now I think the 2 tapper will be enough for me.

 

[Justintoxicated]

microbusbrewing, or anyone else are the red nylon bushings the ones I need in this link?

https://www.chicompany.net/common-i...gs/flare-fittings/nylon-flare-fitting-washers

I found them under cold plate fittings on the site above. I do believe the ones in there currently are also red.

 

[microbusbrewery]

Both mine use red ones and I believe they are color coded by size. I think those are actually 5/16" even though they list them as 1/2" (the pic shows them as being sized in between the white 1/4" and the black 3/8"). I ordered a bunch from these these guys, http://www.installationpartssupply.com/category/stainless-steel-flare-gaskets.html#.WZwoAyh942w BTW, if you're looking for a clean inexpensive way to transition the supply lines from outside to inside, these work well, http://www.installationpartssupply.com/product/S3249.html

It'd be worth testing with three passes. And yes, you can crank up the pressure but the longer it sits, the more CO2 will go into solution. Given enough time, you could start seeing over carb'd beer. I've only used mine for short periods of time, like four or five hours for a festival. At home I usually serve at 12psi on my keezer, but the jockey usually gets set at about 15-17 psi in order to get a decent flow through two circuits. You could do things like venting the kegs periodically, but if left too long you'll probably start having problems.

 

[Justintoxicated]

Both mine use red ones and I believe they are color coded by size. I think those are actually 5/16" even though they list them as 1/2" (the pic shows them as being sized in between the white 1/4" and the black 3/8"). I ordered a bunch from these these guys, http://www.installationpartssupply.com/category/stainless-steel-flare-gaskets.html#.WZwoAyh942w BTW, if you're looking for a clean inexpensive way to transition the supply lines from outside to inside, these work well, http://www.installationpartssupply.com/product/S3249.html

It'd be worth testing with three passes. And yes, you can crank up the pressure but the longer it sits, the more CO2 will go into solution. Given enough time, you could start seeing over carb'd beer. I've only used mine for short periods of time, like four or five hours for a festival. At home I usually serve at 12psi on my keezer, but the jockey usually gets set at about 15-17 psi in order to get a decent flow through two circuits. You could do things like venting the kegs periodically, but if left too long you'll probably start having problems.

Ahh cool, I'll defiantly have to do some testing then My kegs are at about 15 psi on my keezer right now but usually I have that set lower as well, as the keg warms up won't it require high pressure to retain Co2 anyways?

those bulkheads look good but I'm not sure how much cooler wall they can go through? They are way cheaper than the ones I was looking at. https://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=375_19_220_285&products_id=2262

The cooler is only 1" at the very top white border (it's a bit flimsy around the outer collar, but it's probably drillable), but if I drill into the more solid part it's about 1.5-2" (it's a little curvy so it varies). Also are they calling the nut in the picture the spanner nut?

I still need the bulkhead parts and those washers, but I just spent about $350 on parts for the build lol. well the 2 2.5 gallon kegs were $150, and I bought a couple keg gloves for when using the jocky box, so maybe those things shouldn't count

 

[microbusbrewery]

Ha, yeah these things aren't cheap. It's kind of crazy how expensive the fittings can be.

So those little bulkheads would only be big enough for a single layer. I made a larger hole on the inside of mine so just the exterior metal of the cooler is sandwiched between the nut and the bulkhead body. And yes, the spanner nut they're referring to is the one in the pic. I'm not sure why they sell them separate, but they do. For those longer ones you're using, are you going to put some kind of spacer so that it doesn't collapse the inner and outer skin of the cooler when you tighten them down?

 

[Justintoxicated]

Ha, yeah these things aren't cheap. It's kind of crazy how expensive the fittings can be.

So those little bulkheads would only be big enough for a single layer. I made a larger hole on the inside of mine so just the exterior metal of the cooler is sandwiched between the nut and the bulkhead body. And yes, the spanner nut they're referring to is the one in the pic. I'm not sure why they sell them separate, but they do. For those longer ones you're using, are you going to put some kind of spacer so that it doesn't collapse the inner and outer skin of the cooler when you tighten them down?

I'm not sure what to do for the gas and beer inputs (gas will only be needed if I can't fit a small CO2 bottle inside, but it might be nice to have anyways so I can use my 5lb tank (I have too many tanks!). I could use a little help from someone who has done this before. My cooler does not have any metal, but a large washer would probably help? I might have to fork out the cash for the longer bulkheads, I have used the ones I linked before for my air lines run into my keezer collar and to tighten those "spanner nuts" (not really what I would call a spanner nut hah) they like to press in on the wood. I'd love to save money and use the ones you linked though, just not sure if they will work.

 

[Justintoxicated]

So while I decide what to do for bulkheads a few things came in the mail. Taps, shanks, Kegs etc.

portable kegerator by glamisduner, on Flickr

portable kegerator by glamisduner, on Flickr

kegs fit by glamisduner, on Flickr