Buffer 5.2 question
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Professor Frink
Well-Known Member
In theory, it will affect both, as much as you may get off flavors with the wrong pH. I've never done an AG without pH 5.2, I think it works great if you have very soft water like I have. Use 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water.
Lil' Sparky
Cowboys EAC
I've used it for a while. I haven't noticed any off flavors, and it does fix most (not all) pH/residual alkalinity problems with your mash.
gonzo brewer
Well-Known Member
I have the same question.. Kinda
I have 5 star ph 5.2 on my shopping list. I also have ph test strips on my shopping list.
Question: If I use ph 5.2 on every AG batch, do I need the test strips?
Should I get only the test strips to see where I am first? Do I need both?
I live in SoCal and the tap water is a little harder than city of LA. I also have a RO filter that has been disconnected from my kitchen remodel. I can set it up in the garage sink and buy the new cartridges ($60), then add salts. I'm am not sure this is necessary at this point. I have not experimented with branching out of APA's yet, but may do this down the road.
I am still learning and have 4 PM's and 4 AG's under my belt. I'm flying blind on my PH. All beers have turned out excellent so far. I'm working out the brewing qtys and efficiencies.
What is the next progressive step?
I have 5 star ph 5.2 on my shopping list. I also have ph test strips on my shopping list.
Question: If I use ph 5.2 on every AG batch, do I need the test strips?
Should I get only the test strips to see where I am first? Do I need both?
I live in SoCal and the tap water is a little harder than city of LA. I also have a RO filter that has been disconnected from my kitchen remodel. I can set it up in the garage sink and buy the new cartridges ($60), then add salts. I'm am not sure this is necessary at this point. I have not experimented with branching out of APA's yet, but may do this down the road.
I am still learning and have 4 PM's and 4 AG's under my belt. I'm flying blind on my PH. All beers have turned out excellent so far. I'm working out the brewing qtys and efficiencies.
What is the next progressive step?
I bought some, but I'm stupid and forgot to use it on both of the two AG's I've done so far. DOH!
aekdbbop
Well-Known Member
Jester369 said:
haha.. sounds like something i would do.
jdoiv
Well-Known Member
I use the 5.2 and it does work. I haven't noticed any off flavors from it. Theoretically it is better for hard water than soft, but you can use if for soft water as well.
My water is moderately soft and I'll use it for my lighter colored beers. You probably don't need it for darker beers as the dark grains are fairly acidic. I would suggest finding out the pH of your water and doing the nomograph on howtobrew for your water. This will give you an idea of what styles of beer using the 5.2 on would be good.
The instructions are not written very well, but it says to use 1 Tbsp for every 5 gallons going into the kettle. Since I brew 11 gallon batches and have about 13 gallons in the kettle pre-boil, I use 2Tbsp. + 1 tsp. added directly into my mash tun (before I add the grains). Don't bother with adding it to your sparge water as there should be enough in the mash that the pH won't change much with the sparge additions.
My water is moderately soft and I'll use it for my lighter colored beers. You probably don't need it for darker beers as the dark grains are fairly acidic. I would suggest finding out the pH of your water and doing the nomograph on howtobrew for your water. This will give you an idea of what styles of beer using the 5.2 on would be good.
The instructions are not written very well, but it says to use 1 Tbsp for every 5 gallons going into the kettle. Since I brew 11 gallon batches and have about 13 gallons in the kettle pre-boil, I use 2Tbsp. + 1 tsp. added directly into my mash tun (before I add the grains). Don't bother with adding it to your sparge water as there should be enough in the mash that the pH won't change much with the sparge additions.
shafferpilot
Well-Known Member
use those strips and post the results, I'm very interested to hear about just how well that stuff actually works at changing the PH in the mash.
I use it in both the mash water and the sparge water. I batch sparge hot (175F) for maximum extraction and the buffer means no astringency.
Try to get a water analysis if you are concerned about the hardness.
Try to get a water analysis if you are concerned about the hardness.
faber
Well-Known Member
As inexpensive as it is, and easy as it is to use, it's a great insurance policy. (I brew with filtered city water. If I had my own private mountain spring....I'd learn to work with that.)
I started using it on my third AG batch. Since I get about 6.5-7 gals., I put a heaping tablespoon there. No complaints.
I started using it on my third AG batch. Since I get about 6.5-7 gals., I put a heaping tablespoon there. No complaints.
gonzo brewer
Well-Known Member
The common response is it does work. OK ....
But has anyone performed a baseline AG brew without PH 5.2 and then duplicated the recipe with PH 5.2?
I would be very curious as to the results.
I am a KISS type and I don't need the bells an whistles if there is no hard evidence of improvement. I don't even use my irish moss because I do not mind cloudy beer.
But has anyone performed a baseline AG brew without PH 5.2 and then duplicated the recipe with PH 5.2?
I would be very curious as to the results.
I am a KISS type and I don't need the bells an whistles if there is no hard evidence of improvement. I don't even use my irish moss because I do not mind cloudy beer.
Lil' Sparky
Cowboys EAC
It really depends on your water. If your beer turns out fine, no astringency or efficiency problems, and you want to KISS I wouldn't bother with it. I didn't when I started brewing.
We have VERY alkaline water here. After we moved here, my first two batches turned out horrible before I started looking at the pH. Since our water is so alkaline, I'm not sure if the buffer is strong enough by itself so I've tried several things like lactic acid, diluting with RO water + 5.2 buffer, etc. Taking care of the mash pH has made a huge difference in the quality of my beer.
We have VERY alkaline water here. After we moved here, my first two batches turned out horrible before I started looking at the pH. Since our water is so alkaline, I'm not sure if the buffer is strong enough by itself so I've tried several things like lactic acid, diluting with RO water + 5.2 buffer, etc. Taking care of the mash pH has made a huge difference in the quality of my beer.
my first few AG batches were done with straight tap water, pH 7.2. i've since started using 5.2 in my HLT, and my efficiency has skyrocketed. couldn't comment on flavor, as i haven't repeated a recipe.
BeerAg
Well-Known Member
I have made small variations of the same Pale Ale about 10 times.
My first two times, I was having terrible efficiency, probably, in part, due to some very alkaline water.
I started adjusting PH. I started with Acid, and then recently moved to 5.2.
The first 5.2 batch is still a little green, but I can not tell any noticable difference between the the 5.2 and the acid only batch.
The 5.2 versus the last no-PH adjustment batch is a HUGE improvement.
My first two times, I was having terrible efficiency, probably, in part, due to some very alkaline water.
I started adjusting PH. I started with Acid, and then recently moved to 5.2.
The first 5.2 batch is still a little green, but I can not tell any noticable difference between the the 5.2 and the acid only batch.
The 5.2 versus the last no-PH adjustment batch is a HUGE improvement.
The best advice as mentioned above is, if your beer taste good now don't bother with it. If you are looking to increase your efficiency 5.2 may gain you a few points but you'll gain more with a better crush. However, if your beer is astringent and you suffer from harsh hop bitterness then 5.2 will help but you may also need to add some distilled water with your tap water to really make a difference. I had really bad astringency and super harsh hop bitterness, the 5.2 helped but when I started using half distilled and half filtered tap water I really saw an improvement. Now I make beer that taste like my favorite micros.
Brew-boy
Well-Known Member
I use it at half the recommended amount, I have heard the stories of off flavors. Myself I have seen my efficiency shoot up and no off flavors. I use straight RO water but build the mineral profile with salts + the 5.2
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