The_Gerbil_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Like many out there I've decided to upgrade and build a single tier brew stand based of the Brutus 10 build. I just welded up my stand (flux weld with plain steel 2" tube) and am progressing onto the next part of the build. I'm aware of multiple threads on the build so figure starting another won't add much value, so instead I figured I start one with lessons learned, tips, and suggestions for those currently building or planning on building one.
I have two to add thus far:
1. If you plan to flux core weld:
a) The cheapo $100 flux core welder from Harbor Freight appears to have done the job for me (will let you know the longevity of my amateur welds)
b) Keep it to 1/8" thick metal if your using the HF welder - that's the max it can handle
c) From my reading you cannot do stainless with Flux Core. Maybe it's just the HF that can't do it. Maybe someone can chime in here.
d) If aesthetics are important to you I wouldn't flux weld (not possible to get the same good looking weld as MIG/TIG). Also do lots of practice! I did a bunch of practice welds and the majority of my welds, while they appear to be structurally sound, are not pretty (I'm a function over fashion guy anyways so I'm not bothered by this).
e) The Harbor Freight welder will work in a normal socket, but it needs to be 20AMP. Many household outlets are only 15 AMP. Good chance you have one (and pretty much guaranteed to if you have an electric stove) but check your fuse box.
2. The Brutus 10 plans direct you to Caster City for the casters, however, they do not carry expandable casters that will readily work with the 1/8" thick 2" tubing (leaving an internal diameter of 1 3/4". Caster City (who was extremely helpful and based on the conversation alone would recommend them) said they get at least a few calls a month asking about what size to use for HB stands. He gave the following suggestions:
a) Use slightly thinner tubing. I'm not an engineer but guessing a slightly thinner tube would be structurally sound and provide an ID that would work with a caster right out of the box.
b) Weld on a bottom threaded plate and buy the threaded stem caster to screw in (this seems like too big of PITA IMHO).
c) Buy a length of 1 3/4" outside diameter PVC pipe. Cut into 4 pieces each a few inches in length. Then cut a slit down the side. Buy expandable casters with a stem that will fit the ID of the PVC pipe. Slide the PVC pipe into the legs of your stand and then put in your expanding casters. The caster stem will expand the pvc (since it has a slit) that will lock it in place. The stem is only there to keep the caster centered and from falling out so this should work. The weight of the stand will rest on the round plate of the caster.
available expandable stem dimensions: http://www.castercity.com/cm3-EXR-Stems.htm
3. Adding a brake to the caster will still allow the caster to swivel. The total locking casters will lock it from rolling and swiveling. The Caster City rep said you only need to buy 2 and then the other 2 casters shouldn't need locks. Also, the rep gave me a code for 10% off - think it's to track who helped the person calling so give them a ring and I'm sure you'll get a code too.
Link to total locking casters: http://www.castercity.com/cmK3a-stem.htm
Hopefully others will have some tips to add from their experiences. Lets keep it to things not specified in the BYO article or where directions in BYO didn't work.
I have two to add thus far:
1. If you plan to flux core weld:
a) The cheapo $100 flux core welder from Harbor Freight appears to have done the job for me (will let you know the longevity of my amateur welds)
b) Keep it to 1/8" thick metal if your using the HF welder - that's the max it can handle
c) From my reading you cannot do stainless with Flux Core. Maybe it's just the HF that can't do it. Maybe someone can chime in here.
d) If aesthetics are important to you I wouldn't flux weld (not possible to get the same good looking weld as MIG/TIG). Also do lots of practice! I did a bunch of practice welds and the majority of my welds, while they appear to be structurally sound, are not pretty (I'm a function over fashion guy anyways so I'm not bothered by this).
e) The Harbor Freight welder will work in a normal socket, but it needs to be 20AMP. Many household outlets are only 15 AMP. Good chance you have one (and pretty much guaranteed to if you have an electric stove) but check your fuse box.
2. The Brutus 10 plans direct you to Caster City for the casters, however, they do not carry expandable casters that will readily work with the 1/8" thick 2" tubing (leaving an internal diameter of 1 3/4". Caster City (who was extremely helpful and based on the conversation alone would recommend them) said they get at least a few calls a month asking about what size to use for HB stands. He gave the following suggestions:
a) Use slightly thinner tubing. I'm not an engineer but guessing a slightly thinner tube would be structurally sound and provide an ID that would work with a caster right out of the box.
b) Weld on a bottom threaded plate and buy the threaded stem caster to screw in (this seems like too big of PITA IMHO).
c) Buy a length of 1 3/4" outside diameter PVC pipe. Cut into 4 pieces each a few inches in length. Then cut a slit down the side. Buy expandable casters with a stem that will fit the ID of the PVC pipe. Slide the PVC pipe into the legs of your stand and then put in your expanding casters. The caster stem will expand the pvc (since it has a slit) that will lock it in place. The stem is only there to keep the caster centered and from falling out so this should work. The weight of the stand will rest on the round plate of the caster.
available expandable stem dimensions: http://www.castercity.com/cm3-EXR-Stems.htm
3. Adding a brake to the caster will still allow the caster to swivel. The total locking casters will lock it from rolling and swiveling. The Caster City rep said you only need to buy 2 and then the other 2 casters shouldn't need locks. Also, the rep gave me a code for 10% off - think it's to track who helped the person calling so give them a ring and I'm sure you'll get a code too.
Link to total locking casters: http://www.castercity.com/cmK3a-stem.htm
Hopefully others will have some tips to add from their experiences. Lets keep it to things not specified in the BYO article or where directions in BYO didn't work.
