augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
lol I wondered if you old site server was running a 56k modem myself...
BruControl: Brewery control & automation software
- Thread starter BrunDog
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Here's the thing. I thought I connected via serial, but I'm ignorant enough at this point that I'm not sure I did. For instance, I didn't realize until you pointed it out that I needed to set up the Arduino to connect to my home wi-fi through the interface setup and not in BC. Once I realized I needed to do that, it became apparent my computer never did properly pick up the Arduino.
Here's something new I saw this morning. I'm kind of at a loss right now. I've read suggestions on the interwebs for holding down a reset button on the Arduino while plugging in the USB, then releasing the reset. I dunno at this point.
Last edited:
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I wish I could help because I too was confused when I first set mine up and it was the simpler usb setup (I had issues with the clone ch340 arduino substitute chip drivers) but once you finally get it sorted out it becomes pretty clear and and you will be glad you did..
OP
OP
@TexasWine has the normal MEGA with the Atmel USB chip.
I'm using x64, shouldn't be an issue. Maybe try downloading the Arduino software (non-install version) and see if you can find the compatible driver in there: https://www.arduino.cc/download_handler.php?f=/arduino-1.8.5-windows.zip
I'm using x64, shouldn't be an issue. Maybe try downloading the Arduino software (non-install version) and see if you can find the compatible driver in there: https://www.arduino.cc/download_handler.php?f=/arduino-1.8.5-windows.zip
Downloaded and poked around. Microsoft doesn't think there's a compatible driver in there. I think I'm gonna open the box up and see what's inside. Seeing how this is unfolding, I might just take the guts out of the two boxes and put them in a proper cabinet.
tracer
Member
Texas Wine when you get the Windows warning about BruControl inside the warning box in smaller letters is the word (more) or learn more. Click on that and a new box will open and give you the option to run anyway. Tom
Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. When that pop-up warning box is clicked I get the following.
try plugging the arduino into a different computer and changing the cable
Did the first suggestion with no success, and at the moment I don't have another cable. Going to order one today.
nothing to do with ports but I've had an issue with what’s called the Arduino is stuck in sleep mode, I've also had dust in the socket of the usb connection and a micro usb cable that just went bad, you can test your cable out with your phone
HobbyBrauer
Active Member
Random question for all of you using a cheap plastic flow meter in their rigs. Are you using a pull-up resistor and/or RC filter on them? I am installing a small 0.1-3LPM flow meter on my RO system to auto fill my system but in my research it seems some people use nothing i.e. direct wire the sensor some instal a 10k pull-up resistor and others use a pull-up resistor and a basic rc filter. I haven't pulled the meter apart yet but was wondering what y'all do first.
@HobbyBrauer, I have two, and I just connected them with a cable that I made, nothing else added.
OP
OP
The one I use is wired directly to the pin and is working well. When I tested it with a scope it output a square wave, so it must have an internal pull-up (or pull-down).
HobbyBrauer
Active Member
Cool I'm going to just wire it straight up then and see what happens. Are there any indicators, besides lack of signal, that I would observe if it does need a external pull-up/down resistor / rc filter?
Also I just got in a Adafruit Feather M0 WiFi yesterday and seem to be having a similar problem as @TexasWine. The Feather powers up and I get a notification on my PC that it detected a new device and is setting up. It identifies it as a Feather M0 and says setup finished. When I go to Devices and Settings it shows the Feather M0 however, when I go to device manager it does not appear by name and is only listed as USB Serial Device with the port number. Now when I open the Arduino IDE it recognizes the same port number as the Feather M0....strange. I tried using the brucontrol interface installer and selected the proper port # but it won't upload the firmware. I was able to upload a test sketch to it via the Arduino IDE so I know the feather is working properly. I then updated the Adafruit drivers via installer and source files and pointed to them but got the same message that the "best driver is already installed." Now when I selected the option for "I have a disk" and pointed directly at the Adafruit-usbser driver it found the correct one and identified it as such but gave an error saying it could not be installed because the hash was missing etc... I am going to try and install the driver again tonight with driver signatures disabled and see if that gets it going but wondered if y'all had any other ideas?
Also I just got in a Adafruit Feather M0 WiFi yesterday and seem to be having a similar problem as @TexasWine. The Feather powers up and I get a notification on my PC that it detected a new device and is setting up. It identifies it as a Feather M0 and says setup finished. When I go to Devices and Settings it shows the Feather M0 however, when I go to device manager it does not appear by name and is only listed as USB Serial Device with the port number. Now when I open the Arduino IDE it recognizes the same port number as the Feather M0....strange. I tried using the brucontrol interface installer and selected the proper port # but it won't upload the firmware. I was able to upload a test sketch to it via the Arduino IDE so I know the feather is working properly. I then updated the Adafruit drivers via installer and source files and pointed to them but got the same message that the "best driver is already installed." Now when I selected the option for "I have a disk" and pointed directly at the Adafruit-usbser driver it found the correct one and identified it as such but gave an error saying it could not be installed because the hash was missing etc... I am going to try and install the driver again tonight with driver signatures disabled and see if that gets it going but wondered if y'all had any other ideas?
Die_Beerery
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2017
- Messages
- 842
- Reaction score
- 641
You guys are hitting the reset button to put it in the “update” mode right?
OP
OP
Correct. The feather needs a double-click of the button. The LED will flash bright and dim, then it will accept FW.
HobbyBrauer
Active Member
Well after several hours of playing I finally got the brucontrol firmware installed. I was double clicking the button before but in the end the problem was the Adafruit drivers. The latest installer posted (v2.3.1) did not install the Feather drivers. After installing an old version (v2.0) everything went smoothly. Upon digging around the actual drivers, I found that for some reason the driver signatures were not present on the latest release which is why it was not installed. Seems like others on the web have had a similar experience as well.
OP
OP
Sorry... I am surprised at these driver issues. I personally haven't experienced any, but clearly we need to have these packaged/ready for those whose do not get recognized correctly.
HobbyBrauer
Active Member
I'm not that surprised since Microsoft has been tightening down the screws on driver signatures with recent updates. Now its a royal PITA to install an unsigned driver with Windows 10 (you have to shut down signature checks via recovery mode, and need to dig up your recovery key to unlock BitLocker.) Really Adafruit just needs to update their installation package which should take no time.
so right click and install from administrator doesn't work?
Downloaded the v2.0 drivers and going to give this a try when I get home.
HobbyBrauer
Active Member
No, that would work with Windows XP, 7, and 8 but not 10. The reason for this is now every driver has to signed-off by Microsoft (hence the name signature) to ensure safety and compatibility which, in theory is a great idea. However, its left to the individual manufacturers to send in their drivers which many don't do in a timely manner. While, one can install unsigned drivers I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what your doing since you have to "unlock" your computer which could cause major issues with other programs.
@TexasWine best of luck here is the direct link to the drivers I installed for you and others should the one you downloaded not work (I had to try progressively older versions till I found one that worked)
https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_Windows_Drivers/releases/download/1.1/adafruit_drivers.exe
OP
OP
That driver won't work for Arduino MEGA. They are for Adafruit devices, which have a different USB interface chip.
Thank you, sir, for pointing out what should have been obvious to me. I'm on the search now for old Mega drivers.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I install unsigned drivers on windows 10 at work at customers sites from time to time for the printing equipment I install and service.... I dont recall the exact steps but when the install fails it prompts you with an option to run it in compatibility mode and that always works... Ive never done what you mentioned here before. but thats with an actual driver installer program...
I was just about to send an email about issues getting the firmware on the Feather M0 WINC1500...
I had read the PDF, the interface guidelines, etc... I knew nothing about the double button push, then the install on a up-to-date Win10 machine did not work, so I tried the Win7 machine that BruControl is on, but it did not see the COM port, so installed the drivers in post #982 above, and was able to program, set up ssid/pass/static-dhcp, and get it going... very happy now...
I am going to use the feather with battery in the adafruit small clear-top case to monitor 4 temps of my Heat Exchanger system, and maybe control pumps and someday valves to optimize it.. The portability of the feather with battery and one 1-wire temp probe connector on the case for 4 sensors will be a real help...
I had read the PDF, the interface guidelines, etc... I knew nothing about the double button push, then the install on a up-to-date Win10 machine did not work, so I tried the Win7 machine that BruControl is on, but it did not see the COM port, so installed the drivers in post #982 above, and was able to program, set up ssid/pass/static-dhcp, and get it going... very happy now...
I am going to use the feather with battery in the adafruit small clear-top case to monitor 4 temps of my Heat Exchanger system, and maybe control pumps and someday valves to optimize it.. The portability of the feather with battery and one 1-wire temp probe connector on the case for 4 sensors will be a real help...
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I finally got around to installing the snubbing capacitors on both my 240v chiller and chiller pump on my home system yesterday and am happy to report it has resolved the issue of my adruino losing communication with brucontrol which was a regular thing for my fermentation control panel.
Here is Feather M0 setup programmed and working, next step the 4 copper thermowells brazed to the HX and make a nice waterproof custom quad cable and figure out a waterproof power switch and waterproof usb bulkhead fitting. and make a nice graphic...
OP
OP
I think the only place this is mentioned is in the firmware tool itself. On one of the instruction pages after you select the Feather as the interface, it should say “double press”.
Btw I like your enclosure w/ battery. You might consider rearranging it so the battery and feather antenna are separated a bit to maintain/improve signal quality.
Die_Beerery
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2017
- Messages
- 842
- Reaction score
- 641
Will the scripting gods look at this and help me find my errors?
I have at least 1 or 2, but for the life of me, I can't find them.
Some of the issues are, sometimes it seems to progress a "step" ahead. Also It will not get past the first mash step timer.
Thanks!
I have at least 1 or 2, but for the life of me, I can't find them.
Some of the issues are, sometimes it seems to progress a "step" ahead. Also It will not get past the first mash step timer.
Thanks!
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2014
- Messages
- 321
- Reaction score
- 182
Your sacrificial virgin count seems a little low for this quarter.
OP
OP
That script is very long for someone to decode offline. Posting just the hiccup parts might help. One quick thing noted... section names must be unique. You can’t have multiple sections named [timer], since the script interpreter won’t know which one to go to.
Die_Beerery
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2017
- Messages
- 842
- Reaction score
- 641
Good call.. I bet that why it always bounced back up to that timer.
OP
OP
In fairness, this isn’t explicitly stated in the manual - we will fix that.
HobbyBrauer
Active Member
Couple questions about counter elements I am using three counter inputs two are hall effect flow sensors (one for my RO system and the other in my recirculation loop) and the other is an RPM sensor on my pump motor.
1) How do I change the element in BruControl to only display the Rate of flow not the count total? Obviously the total and rate are good for my RO sensor but I don't care about the total Liters circulated in my loop or the total revolutions my motor has spun I just want to see the rate for each.
2) How does one reset the count total? The rate obviously goes back to zero but the count keeps adding. Could I add a button named Reset on the workspace which would zero-out the flow meter?
3) I'm observing some form of interference on my RPM counter. The motor is a 4-wire system (24vDC, 0-5v control, 5v pulse tachometer, and GND) Its wired into a 24vDC motor controller chip (same ones everyone uses for TopsFlow TD5 pumps) and then into the interface. All cables outside the panel are fully shielded but inside the panel is not. When I activate the pump via pwm at 20% it kicks on fine but the rpms are reading north of 25k now when I increase the pump speed to max the RPM drops to 3750 and remains stable. The motor is rated at 5000rpm at full speed no load so 3750 is probably accurate since it does have a load but at low power I am clearly getting some interference. Any ideas on how to fix this? I suppose I could use shielded two conductor cable inside the panel for the PWM and rpm wires but I wonder if that is necessary or would I be better off installing a low pass RC filter?
1) How do I change the element in BruControl to only display the Rate of flow not the count total? Obviously the total and rate are good for my RO sensor but I don't care about the total Liters circulated in my loop or the total revolutions my motor has spun I just want to see the rate for each.
2) How does one reset the count total? The rate obviously goes back to zero but the count keeps adding. Could I add a button named Reset on the workspace which would zero-out the flow meter?
3) I'm observing some form of interference on my RPM counter. The motor is a 4-wire system (24vDC, 0-5v control, 5v pulse tachometer, and GND) Its wired into a 24vDC motor controller chip (same ones everyone uses for TopsFlow TD5 pumps) and then into the interface. All cables outside the panel are fully shielded but inside the panel is not. When I activate the pump via pwm at 20% it kicks on fine but the rpms are reading north of 25k now when I increase the pump speed to max the RPM drops to 3750 and remains stable. The motor is rated at 5000rpm at full speed no load so 3750 is probably accurate since it does have a load but at low power I am clearly getting some interference. Any ideas on how to fix this? I suppose I could use shielded two conductor cable inside the panel for the PWM and rpm wires but I wonder if that is necessary or would I be better off installing a low pass RC filter?
OP
OP
1. You can’t. You could however create a variable element that reports just the value you want. You would need to run a brief script to make it carry the value over. I suppose we could update the element settings to make it configurable.
2. Disable the device element, wait a period of time than is bigger than the device element’s refresh interval, then re-enable the element.
3. Sorry, I’m not following this at all. Could you explain the motor and RPM counter in more detail? A schematic and/or part numbers and links would be helpful.
2. Disable the device element, wait a period of time than is bigger than the device element’s refresh interval, then re-enable the element.
3. Sorry, I’m not following this at all. Could you explain the motor and RPM counter in more detail? A schematic and/or part numbers and links would be helpful.
HobbyBrauer
Active Member
Gotcha. What would a script and variable element look like? Would it be possible to create another script (or possibly the same one) that could disable the counter element and re-enable it after that period via a button?
My motor is a BLDC type made by Micropump. There are four wires that connect it 1) +24vDC 2)0-5vDC analog control signal input 3) Tachometer 5v pulse output and 4) Common GND. Here is the link to the manual:
http://www.micropump.com/support_documents/380Manual.pdf
If you scroll to page 10 it talks about the tachometer output but I also copied it below:
"Using the Tachometer Output. The tachometer output can be monitored using any frequency counter. The tachometer output is 0- 5V square wave that has two cycles per drive revolution. The frequency range is 0-160Hz. To convert the tachometer output to RPM, multiply the frequency by 30. The tachometer can be used as a speed feedback in a control system, or as a means of automatically sensing a decouple condition. Please contact your distributor if you need assistance."
In my setup the pwm control signal from the arduino feeds a separate speed control board to generate the proper analog signal and acts as a manual override/shut-off for the pump system. Here is the specific one I'm using:
https://store.brewpi.com/mashing/brewing-pumps/pump-speed-control-board
What I am experiencing is when I activate the pump at any speed between 0 and 50% the rpm is a constant 29000r/min this occurs even at 1% power when the pump is not moving. Above 50% the rpm drops to a reasonable rate that goes up linearly to max 370r/min at 100% power. I am assuming this is an accurate max as the motor is spec'ed to max 5000r/min at no load but I am testing with pump head attached.
My motor is a BLDC type made by Micropump. There are four wires that connect it 1) +24vDC 2)0-5vDC analog control signal input 3) Tachometer 5v pulse output and 4) Common GND. Here is the link to the manual:
http://www.micropump.com/support_documents/380Manual.pdf
If you scroll to page 10 it talks about the tachometer output but I also copied it below:
"Using the Tachometer Output. The tachometer output can be monitored using any frequency counter. The tachometer output is 0- 5V square wave that has two cycles per drive revolution. The frequency range is 0-160Hz. To convert the tachometer output to RPM, multiply the frequency by 30. The tachometer can be used as a speed feedback in a control system, or as a means of automatically sensing a decouple condition. Please contact your distributor if you need assistance."
In my setup the pwm control signal from the arduino feeds a separate speed control board to generate the proper analog signal and acts as a manual override/shut-off for the pump system. Here is the specific one I'm using:
https://store.brewpi.com/mashing/brewing-pumps/pump-speed-control-board
What I am experiencing is when I activate the pump at any speed between 0 and 50% the rpm is a constant 29000r/min this occurs even at 1% power when the pump is not moving. Above 50% the rpm drops to a reasonable rate that goes up linearly to max 370r/min at 100% power. I am assuming this is an accurate max as the motor is spec'ed to max 5000r/min at no load but I am testing with pump head attached.
Going way back for this one. Any issues threading the NPS on this meter to NPT elsewhere in your system?
OP
OP
No issues threading the meter. It is technically BSP I think. Use generous Teflon!
OP
OP
@HobbyBrauer... apologies I don’t have any experience with this pump. Seems cool though! The manual is lacking however - they seemed to vote against graphics.
Since the interface is reading a very high number when the pump is off, I can only assume it is reading noise. The manual doesn’t describe the output circuit of the tach... like if it is open collector and needs a pull-up resistor.
Does the noise occur all the time, even when the motor’s power is turned off, or just when power is applied (even if not enough for the motor to spin)?
The only real way to understand what the interface is seeing would be to put a scope on it. You might be able to see the voltages with a volt-ohm meter assuming rotating the shaft incrementally can place the tach output in both high and low states.
I don’t think we would want to put a capacitor on the tach output - it’s rapid changes will put a big load on it.
Since the interface is reading a very high number when the pump is off, I can only assume it is reading noise. The manual doesn’t describe the output circuit of the tach... like if it is open collector and needs a pull-up resistor.
Does the noise occur all the time, even when the motor’s power is turned off, or just when power is applied (even if not enough for the motor to spin)?
The only real way to understand what the interface is seeing would be to put a scope on it. You might be able to see the voltages with a volt-ohm meter assuming rotating the shaft incrementally can place the tach output in both high and low states.
I don’t think we would want to put a capacitor on the tach output - it’s rapid changes will put a big load on it.
Similar threads
