Bru Gear ProFermenter 14 Gallon Review

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-CHRIS-

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I have been brewing for about 6 months now and moved over to all-grain a few months ago via a keggle-based electricbrewery.com HERMS system. I have been using a FastFerment since I started brewing but had 2 major problems:

1. No matter how much I cleaned it with PBW and StarSan it always smelled like beer after it was cleaned. This was coupled by a brewmaster buddy of mine that said he did not like having beer in contact with plastic for any length of time.
2. I wanted to start brewing 10 gallon batches since my 5 gallon batches were getting consumed too quickly.
3. The FastFerment wasn't even close to being sanitary with all the threaded connections and plastic ball valve. That being said, I never had an infection or off taste in any of my brews.

I looked at all the ~14 gallon fermenters out there and narrowed it down to the Brewers Hardware 15 gallon fermentor, the SS BrewTech Chronical 14 gallon fermenter and the Bru Gear fermenter. My major considerations were capacity, how sanitary it is out of the box, design/function, and finally how good it looks.

If money is no object the Brewers Hardware unit is a winner on all fronts. I do have a little concern about a massive 2" dump valve with such a small batch of beer. I think it may be unnecessary. It is completely sanitary and the ability to use tri clover to build a taller stand is a terrific innovation. What ruled this one out for me was it was over 60% more expensive than the competition shipped and wasn't functionally superior in my opinion.

I assume, although have no source for my assumption, that the SS BrewTech and Bru Gear units are made in the same factory or made from the same base design with some key differences. The price is similar, $495 plus shipping for the SS BrewTech and $588 for the Bru Gear. What made me finally decide on the Bru Gear was it is a totally sanitary design compared to the semi-sanitary design of the SS BrewTech. The BruGear has sanitary Tri Clover fittings for the bottom dump, racking arm, thermowell, and the blowoff port. It also comes with sanitary butterfly valves for both the dump and racking arm. In contrast, the SS Brew Tech does have a sanitary Tri Clover bottom dump and racking arm, but the thermowell is weldless, indicating threaded, and the unit ships with harder to sanitize 3 piece ball valves. All that being said, I have made great beer in the FastFerment and gasp even plastic buckets, but for the tiny price difference, why not select the best fermenter for the price? This is why I bought the Bru Gear.

As a novice brewer I was troubled by the lack of photos and description on the BruGear website to exactly show and list what I would receive with my order. I am a visual person, so photos help me understand what else I would need to order to make a complete fermenter. This is what you get in your double walled cardboard box:

brugear_02.jpg

brugear_03.jpg


I opted for the sanitary valve for the racking arm as it was only a $39 option. Everything is pictured that comes in the box, in addition it comes with one Tri Clover clamp and a Tri Clover to 1/2" barb fitting for racking. I fill it from the top, more on that later, so it is pretty much turn key. If you mount it high enough, you can use the 1/2" barb Tri Clover to rack your beer into kegs or bottles. A buddy of mine has a few of the 40 gallon fermenters and he suggested another elbow and a sightglass for the bottom dump. You don't want to restrict the trub dump with a 1/2" barb and with the current design it will shoot out horizontally and make a huge mess. I bought my additional fittings from Brewers Hardware.

After unboxing, the fermenter had the distinctive smell of welding/factory. I looked around and there was a little polishing compound stuck in a few of the Tri Clover fittings so a through cleaning with PBW was in order. Once it was cleaned and sanitized, there were no odors. The welds are consistent and the interior of the fermenter is completely polished smooth, very impressed.

On to brew day! I brew a citrus wheat that I just can't keep enough around, so it made sense to make this the first 10 gallon batch. My brewery is mobile, setup on 2 saw horses and some 2x4s. I usually brew outside, fill the fast ferment and then carry the filled fast ferment to my fermentation chamber. At around 50 pounds, it really isn't a big deal to carry. The filled BruGear probably weighs around 95 pounds plus I am not certain it is a good idea to move it full of beer. I needed a way to pump the wort from the outside brewery to the fermentation chamber. I purchased 20 feet of 1/2" silicone tubing for the task. To sanitize, I used a small fishtank powerhead pump in a bucket of StarSan, so during the entire brew day I was circulating StarSan through the tube. To get the last gallon or so of wort out of the transfer tube, I just heated some water in the HLT and pumped it though the tube. I have a valve at the end of the tube to stop the flow when I saw the color change to fresh water. It worked out great.

brugear_04.jpg


Finally, here is everything in place in my True GDM-12 fermentation chamber. I use an Inkbird STC-1000 to maintain the temp at 63 degrees for this wheat beer. I will report back on the quality of the beer in 2 weeks. I am going to try to harvest the yeast out of this batch via the bottom dump.

brugear_01.jpeg


In summary, I am very pleased with the purchase and would not hesitate to recommend the BruGear fermenter to anyone looking for a high quality fully sanitary fermenter with no compromises. They really have a winner here. I think the SS BrewTech has some design compromises that are not easily overcome such as the weldless thermowell. I would have rather not have the thermowell. then have the weldless one. The threaded valves are replaceable, but then you are in the Brewers Hardware price territory with an inferior design. I really like the Brewers Hardware Fermentor, but at 62% more expensive than the BruGear, it doesn't make financial sense.

Hope this helps.

Chris
 
Can you tell me the total height of this with the lid on (to the top of the blow off elbow). Wish they made a 7 gal version of this.
 
I agree they need to make this in a 7 gallon. I bought 2 of the 7.3g Stout short fermenters and that are fantastic, but the price is high. These looks really nice for the price.

I agree the SS brewtech cost cutting measure make zero sense to me. Why have a conical and add threads and a weldless thermowell..
 
Can you tell me the total height of this with the lid on (to the top of the blow off elbow). Wish they made a 7 gal version of this.

The measurement to the top of the blowoff tube is approximately 40"

For reference, the interior dimensions of the True GDM-12 is 45" high 21" wide and around 19 1/4" deep.

I wouldn't want a much shorter fridge as pouring in yeast could be problematic.

Unless size is a consideration, I don't see a problem fermenting 5 gallons in this fermenter.

Chris
 
How was your experience ordering from their website? I ordered a kettle from them a week ago and haven't heard anything since the order confirmation and haven't received a tracking number.
 
How was your experience ordering from their website? I ordered a kettle from them a week ago and haven't heard anything since the order confirmation and haven't received a tracking number.

It was pretty painless, my order confirmation was almost instantaneous and I received a tracking number 2 days after my order confirmation. Maybe you have a configuration that they need to put together and pack first delaying the shipment?

Chris
 
The design of the vessel, as well as the handles, and lid clamping system leads me to believe this is made in the same shop as the SS Brew Tech.

I bought an SS and am doing my first batch with it. The weldless thermocouple was a minor concern to me. I’m very, very uptight about cleaning and sanitation. The main reason I bought the SS was the cooling system they offered complete with a pump, controller, AND an insulation jacket. Anyone try to wrap the cone part of a conical in closed cell foam before? Holy cats!

I’m 9 days into my first fermentation with an Oktoberfest in the fermenter using lager yeast and keeping the fermenter in the low 50’s. Here’s my impressions of the SS thus far: Their cooling coil system is in the top 1/3 of the fermenter so you get some temperature striation. The controller temp reads 1 degree higher (+/- .2F) than the thermowell temp. Not a big deal once you figure that out.

I was previously unaware of the Bru Gear until I saw your post. Sanitary valves and a tri-clamp for the thermowell are bonuses. I also like the design of their cooling/heating coil- it looks like it goes much further into the wort than the SSBT design. I modified a Stout 7 gal fermentor with a stainless immersion coil in much the same way.

For the cost of the Bru Gear cooling system, you still don’t get a controller, pump, or insulation jacket. If the lid dimensions are the same though as the SS, you can always use SS’s system. If you had BG’s coil with the rest of SS’s cooling/heating kit, that would be the perfect set up!

One other bonus with the BG that I do see is the larger opening on the lid for dry hopping. You could even do a CIP spray ball if you are so inclined.
 
They were supposed to release their 2.0 version of the kettle last month, maybe that's why there is a hold up. I've contacted them about it but they never get back to you. The appear very focused on the commercial side and not so much on the homebrew side.
 
How was your experience ordering from their website? I ordered a kettle from them a week ago and haven't heard anything since the order confirmation and haven't received a tracking number.

Have you tried reaching out to them? Give them a call if they have a phone number. The quickest way to get a response, post on their Facebook page. Seriously. I had a confirmation the next day for my order, but I know they're getting the 2.0 kettles out, so maybe that's the hold up? You never know until you reach out to them.
 
To OP, you sold me on this one. I don't do 10 gallon batches right now, but I know in the next 6 months I'll start going that way. I for some reason didn't realize the thermowell on the SS is weldless...that's a no-go for me. Tri-clamp all the way.
 
To OP, you sold me on this one. I don't do 10 gallon batches right now, but I know in the next 6 months I'll start going that way. I for some reason didn't realize the thermowell on the SS is weldless...that's a no-go for me. Tri-clamp all the way.

Yeah, having some weldless fittings didn't make sense to me either. That being said, I have never had an infection in my FastFerment which is all threaded fittings and a ball valve you can only clean by soaking...

5 gallon batches don't seem to be any issue in the BruGear fermenter, I have a Belgian Dubbel in it now.

Chris
 
I have a 7 gallon SS and just recently bought a 14 Gallon SS fermentor. The weldless thermowell has never caused me any issue. Very easy to unscrew and clean with no issues and I've never had an infection.

As for the cooling coils, they work awesome. I have the digital thermometer that they sell inserted into the lower thermowell of the conical and then the controller temp sensor in the top lid thermowell. The temps have always been either eact or +/- .5 degrees F off.

The BruGear does look good and it looks almost identical to the SS Brewtech except for the legs and some fittings. Since the Lid looks exactly like the SS Brewtech, I wonder if you can use the FTSS from SS Brewtech on the BruGear?

EDIT: Never mind, I just saw on their website that they offer their own cooling solution.
 
BTW, I would imagine that the people that have a major concern about the weldless thermowell would also have a issue with the cooling system that these fermentors have, the coil is a bit more of a bear to clean then a small threaded thermowell.
 
Can the OP verify if the Bru Gear has volume markings? If so, are they etched?

I am torn between these two conicals and am having real trouble deciding which route to go. I like all of the features and sanitary valves of the Bru Gear, but I can get a 1/2 bbl SS Chronical for the same price. Being able to get 15 gal of finished product from one vessel is a big plus! But I agree about the weldless thermowell on the SS being a sticking point. I mean, why go through the trouble to make everything nice and sanitary, but then skimp on that?
 
Despite a relative amount of negative feedback (relative being a relative word... there is very little chatter about this company in the grand scheme of things) I went ahead and ordered 14 gallon conical with racking valve upgrade this afternoon. Ordered with a credit card, so there should be no problem disputing/cancelling if need be... But I am optimistic! There simply is not a better (by the numbers) fermenter at the $500 price point! Hell, like the OP stated, not one of the other sub-1k units is completely sanitary! Trust me, I was tempted by the sale price of the Blichmann units... but two things. First, if you upgrade the Blichmann unit to tri-clamps, the price nears $700. Secondly, if the price is reduced, that's because they are about to release something different.

So here's me being optimistic and another potential review thread! Cheer's to OP for great pictures
 
I have a 7 gallon SS and just recently bought a 14 Gallon SS fermentor. The weldless thermowell has never caused me any issue. Very easy to unscrew and clean with no issues and I've never had an infection.

As for the cooling coils, they work awesome. I have the digital thermometer that they sell inserted into the lower thermowell of the conical and then the controller temp sensor in the top lid thermowell. The temps have always been either eact or +/- .5 degrees F off.

The BruGear does look good and it looks almost identical to the SS Brewtech except for the legs and some fittings. Since the Lid looks exactly like the SS Brewtech, I wonder if you can use the FTSS from SS Brewtech on the BruGear?

EDIT: Never mind, I just saw on their website that they offer their own cooling solution.

I have read before that the bru gear and ss Conicals are from the same manufacturer in China so Its very likely the parts are interchangeable.
 
Would the cooling coil go deep enough into the conical to accommodate 5.5g batches? Also thought about buying one of Bobby's stainless elements and having a bung welded in. "Brew in a Conical" for a fraction of the price compared to Brau Supply or BrewHa
 
Recieved my fermenter yesterday. Had it shipped to the shop to save a few bucks and keep it hidden from SWMBO (for the time being). Good tuen around time- Ordered on a monday, recieved it on the following tuesday. Good looking product, I'm excited to put it to use.... but they only sent 4 of the 5 clamps needed to put it together. I'm waiting to hear back from them before I decide if further tri-clamp accessories will be purchased from Bru-Gear.

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I'm waiting to hear back from them before I decide if further tri-clamp accessories will be purchased from Bru-Gear.

I highly recommend a 90 degree elbow, a sight glass, a few more clamps and a bunch of spare gaskets.

I attach the sight glass to the bottom port and the 90 on the end of the sight glass to drop trub. The sight glass is helpful in showing when you are into beer.

You may also consider a way to slightly pressurize the fermenter during cold crashing. I just bought one of those MFL to sanitary adapters from Brewhardware.com. If you don't slightly pressurize (1 PSI) the fermenter, you will suck nastiness into the fermenter during cold crashing.

Chris
 
Thank you for the suggestions, I agree entirely. The question I had was one of whether or not I was going to order the additional pieces from Bru-Gear or elsewhere. 48 hours after pointing out their error via their website, I had not heard anything back. I directly emailed them at [email protected] and heard back an hour later; here's hoping!
 
They sent the clamp out 2-day USPS, so I'll have that Tomorrow or the day after. I'm pumped to do some wet testing to sort my process out .. That said, I wonder about the racking arm. It leaves behind THREE quarts of liquid. That's a pretty healthy percentage, considering that I will have used the bottom dump valve to dispose of the trub. I'm mulling over how to modify it so that it still rotates without contacting the sides, but creates less waste. It should be noted that the SS Tech units do not have this problem with their ports being lower.

View attachment 1453085268183.jpg

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View attachment 1453085290715.jpg
 
I highly recommend a 90 degree elbow, a sight glass, a few more clamps and a bunch of spare gaskets.

I attach the sight glass to the bottom port and the 90 on the end of the sight glass to drop trub. The sight glass is helpful in showing when you are into beer.

You may also consider a way to slightly pressurize the fermenter during cold crashing. I just bought one of those MFL to sanitary adapters from Brewhardware.com. If you don't slightly pressurize (1 PSI) the fermenter, you will suck nastiness into the fermenter during cold crashing.

Chris

That’s one way to do it and it helps prevent oxidation should you manage to suck some air along with sanitation solution.

I find I don’t get much back suction if I drop the temp in 4-6 degree increments over a matter of hours rather than dropping from 60-70F to 34 in an hour. I don’t have the luxury of pressurizing with my 14 gal SSBT since it’s got the coils in the lid and there is no TC opening on that lid. With the new SSBT 1/2 bbl I just bought with the coil in the side, a CO2 blanket can be a reality.

Thanks for the tip on the TC to 1/4” MFL adapters! I’ve looked all over. I just picked up two today.
 
That said, I wonder about the racking arm. It leaves behind THREE quarts of liquid. .

With a 5 gallon batch that is a 15% loss. I did not notice that difference with the SS Brewtech. I wonder how much liquid gets lost in the brewtech between the 90 degree elbow and the bottom of the fermenter? Probably 50% less at least.

Personally I fill my kegs from the bottom port because the beer runs cleanly really quickly after dumping a little yeast and trub. I actually ordered a sample valve today for the racking port since I don't use it for racking.

Chris
 
Personally I fill my kegs from the bottom port because the beer runs cleanly really quickly after dumping a little yeast and trub. I actually ordered a sample valve today for the racking port since I don't use it for racking.

And that's maybe what I'll end up doing. Haven't had to revamp my process this much in years is all. The Chronicals, per the FAQ page, create less than one quart of waste; for those comparing.
 
I have added a new upgrade to my fermenter, i have added a sample valve to the racking port. As mentioned previously, I do pressurized transfers with CO2 so I don't really need the height of the racking port. This also lowers the cost of the fermenter since you don't need the second butterfly valve. I bought the sampling valve and a 1.5" TC to 3" TC for the top port from brewershardware.com and the flare to 1.5" TC from brewhardware.com for the pressurized transfer.

Boy I wish someone would introduce a pressure rated conical fermenter so I could carbonate in place.

brugearsamplevalve.jpg


Chris
 
What about a carbonation stone in-line during pressurized transfer to keg? Might need a little ingenuity depending on your kegging process but should get you within a few tenths of a volume if you calculate properly.
 
What about a carbonation stone in-line during pressurized transfer to keg? Might need a little ingenuity depending on your kegging process but should get you within a few tenths of a volume if you calculate properly.

I don’t think you’d be able to really hold what little carbonation you might gain. Typically, I fill a CO2-purged corny in about 5 minutes through a standard keg outlet fitting in the outlet side of the keg. With the low pressure allowed for transfer in the fermenters, it requires venting your keg as you fill so I’d be surprised if you gained any points since you really can’t keg under pressure like you can off a commercial rig.

I’ve actually had more problems with stone-carbonated kegs being overly foamy than ones where I simply turned up the pressure via the outlet fitting once I had a keg sealed.
 
What about a carbonation stone in-line during pressurized transfer to keg? Might need a little ingenuity depending on your kegging process but should get you within a few tenths of a volume if you calculate properly.

I am not an expert in inline carbonation, but wouldn't that require the fermenter to be at the proper pressure e.g. ~15psi at around 37 degrees for a basic ale? Otherwise, wouldn't the carbonation stone just pressurize the fermenter?

Thanks,
Chris
 
@-CHRIS- , what's your dump-schedule like? On my conical (not brugear) I've been struggling with dumping the right amount. If I wait until it's pretty done it'll clog some, but otherwise I feel like I waste quite a few beers dumping too much.
 
I aim for 11 gallons into the fermenter to give me some wiggle room in the dumping of trub. Usually I fill the fermenter, let it sit 24 hours, drop the cold break than pitch the yeast. Since I make basic ales and stouts, fermentation is almost always done within 2-3 weeks. At the end of fermentation, I pressurize the fermenter to 1-3PSI and cold crash the fermentation chamber. I then use the CO2 to push the yeast and trub out of the bottom port before I fill the kegs. I generally capture around 1/2 gallon in this process. I don't bother harvesting yeast at this point in time. This gets me two full corny kegs.

Chris
 
I am not an expert in inline carbonation, but wouldn't that require the fermenter to be at the proper pressure e.g. ~15psi at around 37 degrees for a basic ale? Otherwise, wouldn't the carbonation stone just pressurize the fermenter?



Thanks,

Chris


Not exactly. My experiments with inline carbonation are still ongoing but I have had fairly successful results so far.

My experience so far has been that manipulating the flow rate and oxygen pressure/flow through the stone while keeping the fluid temp and size of tubing constant allows me to dissolve a wide range of carbonation. I haven't reached the perfect calculation yet for my system but I keep working on it little by little. I've had beers ranging all the way from greatly undercarbed to slightly overcarbed.

My current system is a triclover tee with a cam lock for the incoming flow, a carbonation stone, and a ball valve on the outgoing flow.

I keep the fermenter pressure at 2.5psi. The carbonation going through the stone doesn't pressurize the fermenter because it's only pushing co2 into the liquid that's between vessels.

I'm not sure if this method is common, proper, etc. but I've been experimenting with it and am liking the idea of being able to dial in a few set values I can rely on to eliminate the extra carbonation period entirely.
 
@-CHRIS- , what's your dump-schedule like? On my conical (not brugear) I've been struggling with dumping the right amount. If I wait until it's pretty done it'll clog some, but otherwise I feel like I waste quite a few beers dumping too much.

:off: I have had the same issue with the AHB conical we use... Ironically its the butterfly valve on my bottom port thats causing my issues... the smaller ball valve is easier to control and I am able to cut the flow faster.. the lock on the handle of the butterfly valve has caused me to waste beer while I fight it.

The 90 degree elbow has helped a bit though. I know the butterfly valve is supposed to be better but I find it awkward to use in this case.
 
:off: I have had the same issue with the AHB conical we use... Ironically its the butterfly valve on my bottom port thats causing my issues... the smaller ball valve is easier to control and I am able to cut the flow faster.. the lock on the handle of the butterfly valve has caused me to waste beer while I fight it.

The 90 degree elbow has helped a bit though. I know the butterfly valve is supposed to be better but I find it awkward to use in this case.

I'll take a picture of my keg filling setup tonight as I am kegging some beer tonight. That being said, out of the bottom drain, I have a 90 degree elbow, the butterfly valve, a sightglass then a 1.5" TC to 1/2" barb that then goes into a silicone tube into the keg. The 1/2" barb certainly reduces the flow which allows me to limit waste. I tend to "burp" the valve, by opening it full and closing it quickly, until it runs clear. The sightglass shows me when the beer is starting to run clear. If I get a little trub in the bottom of the keg, I am really not too worried.

Chris
 
I got my SS Brew Tech conical a couple years ago and it does not have a weldless thermowell, in fact it is welded. They must have gone to weldless as of recently to cut costs, bummer.

When I formulate my recipes I usually shoot for 5.25 gallons into fermentor, that way I have a 1/4 gallon that goes to trub and racking arm loss. With this method I always have a complete 5 gallon corny.
 

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