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rmg2800

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My sister bought me a Brewer's Best Double IPA kit. I was planning on Brewing it this weekend. The instructions Say to steep the specialty grains for 20 min. Should I follow the instructions or steep for longer? The instructions also specifically stated "Do not rehydrate the yeast" (Us-05) Should I go ahead and rehydrate the yeast or listen to the instructions? I also purchased some nylon paint strainer bags for the grains. I tried cleaning and soaking the bags in boiled water. The water the bags are soaked in have a chemical taste after being soaked. How can I prevent this from being transferred to the wort.

Thanks
 
My sister bought me a Brewer's Best Double IPA kit. I was planning on Brewing it this weekend. The instructions Say to steep the specialty grains for 20 min. Should I follow the instructions or steep for longer? The instructions also specifically stated "Do not rehydrate the yeast" (Us-05) Should I go ahead and rehydrate the yeast or listen to the instructions? I also purchased some nylon paint strainer bags for the grains. I tried cleaning and soaking the bags in boiled water. The water the bags are soaked in have a chemical taste after being soaked. How can I prevent this from being transferred to the wort.



Thanks


Bags: I would honestly just soak and boil them in water a couple times and see if that gets the flavor out.

Yeast: I would rehydrate personally.

Grains: that part I don't see a harm in listening to the directions. 20-30 mins in pretty standard for specialty grains that you're trying to get some flavor and color from. It wouldn't hurt to let them steep a bit longer if you feel like it. Just don't heat them to 170. Good luck!
 
I think the BB kits I started with had a muslin bag for the steeping grains included. I always did mine this way...

Dump grain into included muslin sack, tie to handle of kettle, add my 2-3 gallons of water and start heating. By the time it gets to about 165*f it should have taken about 30 minutes. Pull the sack out and give it a squeeze (no one has proven this is the wrong thing to do since BIAB brewers squeeze the crud out of 10+#s of grain after boiling) and turn my heat up to start the boil. Wait until it starts to foam and add my bittering hops and start the timer. I did 3 kits just like this and each one was exactly how it should have been.

Biggest thing... Don't listen to the instructions about transferring to secondary aft 8 days! Leave it in primary for 2 weeks period. Take a gravity reading, wait 2 days and take another reading. If they are the same, *then* either transfer for dry hopping or just add the dry hops to the primary and rack to a keg or bottling bucket in 5-7 days.
 
Yeah, the BB kits usually come with a bag. I've used paint strainer bags with no issue, too, but the muslin bags work just fine.

You can rehydrate the yeast if you are careful about avoiding contamination, but it is perfectly ok to sprinkle dry yeast on the wort.

Their steeping guidelines are fine, too.

Really, you'll make perfectly good beer using their instructions and bag.
 
I agree with re-hydrating the yeast, leaving it in the primary, and squeezing the grain when you pull it out (You can even rinse the grain before you start squeezing if you want).

I dont think I would use the bags though. Id just buy/order a steeping grain bag or buy a white laundry bag from walmart. Its not worth risking adding chemicals to your wort (even if you boil the bag multiple times, chemicals still might seep). The cheap white laundry bags from walmart have worked for me and do not have chemicals in them. I dont know if I would recommend it over a steeping bag though.
 

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