Brewed an Ordinary Bitter...

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Although the Malt Miller are great, folk in the EU may have better luck with www.geterbrewed.com as they can use the Northern Ireland exemptions to act as a wormhole through the Brexit border mess so may be your best bet for getting British stuff into the EU.
Thanks for the hint. It is really difficult to find shops that sell specific malts via search engine, because they mostly turn out US results. I knew of the shop, but not that they had Chevallier.

@Miraculix There is a new Dutch shop close to where I live that sells lots of Crisp and Thomas Fawcett. Will check that one out soon. No Chevallier though... Home - Selected Brewing Ingredients
 
Thanks for the hint. It is really difficult to find shops that sell specific malts via search engine, because they mostly turn out US results. I knew of the shop, but not that they had Chevallier.

@Miraculix There is a new Dutch shop close to where I live that sells lots of Crisp and Thomas Fawcett. Will check that one out soon. No Chevallier though... Home - Selected Brewing Ingredients
Great, thanks! My parcel arrived and I didn't have to pay anything extra for importing from the UK. Below 150 euros, no additional taxes or hidden fees. But make sure to tell the seller that they should stick the bill somewhere OUTSIDE of the parcel, in these little plastic envelopes for example. Otherwise it's a pita to get the missing documents to them.... Because apparently nobody notifies you.
 
Thanks for the hint. It is really difficult to find shops that sell specific malts via search engine, because they mostly turn out US results. I knew of the shop, but not that they had Chevallier.
Tagging "UK" or whatever usually helps.

@Miraculix There is a new Dutch shop close to where I live that sells lots of Crisp and Thomas Fawcett. Will check that one out soon. No Chevallier though... Home - Selected Brewing Ingredients
They may be nervous about whether they can sell it as it's more expensive, but if you ask them then they should be able to get it.

Crisp have also started doing floor-malted Hana, the original Bohemian barley, which makes gorgeous lager.

But apart from the heritage stuff I'd go with Fawcett given the choice....

Also worth mentioning that malt prices are up a lot this harvest, but some are only putting their prices up at New Year - malting is an energy-intensive business and we all know what's happened to energy prices this year.
 
My first best bitter just hit .011 in fermenter. It had a bit of sweet twang 2 days ago so I wasn’t sure but now that has faded and tastes more balanced. I might be a bit off on color but I think it’s close.
 

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It's worth emphasising that cask beer is hugely dependent on the quality of cellarmanship in the pub, and for various reasons the average standard of cask beer in London pubs is some of the worst in the UK. There are some exceptions, and London generally has the numbers to allow high throughput so when it's right it can be great, but one imagines a lot of tourists are put off by drinking vinegar on a Tuesday lunchtime when they will get a so much better experience in a pub that cares on a Friday night.

Although the Malt Miller are great, folk in the EU may have better luck with www.geterbrewed.com as they can use the Northern Ireland exemptions to act as a wormhole through the Brexit border mess so may be your best bet for getting British stuff into the EU.

Less appropriate though for 1970s Boddies, which was the matter at hand. Boddies though is the perfect example of how the right amount of crystal can be - nothing, northern bitters generally use less crystal than southern ones but tourists tend to only see the Thames Valley versions and assume they're all like that. And then they assume that the colour comes all from crystal and other speciality malts when in reality almost all traditional British brewers add caramel or a touch of black malt to make the beer browner so that they have a consistent product. It's no wonder that US commercial bitters tend to be a bit of a mess that don't bear much resemblance to the real thing, at least on the evidence of what made it across the pond for GBBF this year (advisory, contains handpull porn) :
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...r-favorite-recipe.472464/page-88#post-9309332
This year CAMRA had a homebrew competition at GBBF for the first time - not as well-regarded as say Brewcon , but this recipe for the section winner gives you a starting point.
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/great-british-beer-festival.99058/page-2#post-1156557
Fuller's have tweeted some pages from their recipe book which I've collected in this thread, which led ESBrewer to what he claims is a good match for ESB. It's worth noting that Fuller's use 7.2% light crystal and that's more than enough for my northern tastebuds.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...imperials-neipa-from-the-horses-mouth.642756/
It gets exponentially more difficult to make great bitter as you go down the ABV scale, but pubs generally don't put on cask beers over 4.5% as they don't get enough turnover except in city centres, so if you're not a regular bitter brewer I would strongly recommend starting at a classic Best strength of 4.3% rather than 4% or lower. My personal taste is overwhelmingly in favour of Goldings and anti-Fuggles, but putting aside that bias, Goldings were traditionally used in the premium beers of Britain and I'd suggest you start with all-Goldings before experimenting with other hops.

The thing about bitter is that it's all about balance - every component makes a contribution, but not overwhelming the other components. That starts with water, see these suggestions from one of the main British brewery suppliers - traditionally British brewers particularly in Yorkshire were obsessed with the hugely mineralised well waters of Burton (up to 1000ppm sulphate) and would load their water with gypsum. That's changing, you're seeing generally less minerals and more of a balance towards chloride, but British brewing liquor is still far more mineralised than USians are used to :
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...vous-about-mineral-levels.94723/#post-1044916
Yeast really matters and is a big part of the difference between different family breweries. The first choice is getting an actual brewery yeast - Brits can usually scruonge some cask dregs from a pub, or harvest from the few bottle-conditioned beers that use a primary yeast such as Fuller's 1845 or St Austell Proper Job. Second choice would be Brewlab in Sunderland who have an extensive collection of the real thing and after various ups and downs are now selling direct again :
https://brewlab.co.uk/product-category/home-brew-yeast-slopes/
I don't know how it works now, but in the past they were happy to take specific requests. Don't embarrass them by asking for eg "the Black Sheep yeast" as that gets into all sorts of trademark problems, but historically if you asked them for "a yeast suitable for a Black Sheep clone" then they would send you yeast labelled "HH". Which is a bit of a coincidence given that Black Sheep got their yeast along with some of their squares from the old Hardy & Hanson brewery....

You will also notice that about half the Brewlab descriptions include some mention of phenolics - phenolic yeast are far more common in the UK than US labs make out. But they tend to be awkward at a homebrew level, usually needing a lot of oxygenation - hence fishtails. WLP037 Manchester is slightly phenolic and meant to be great if you can find it, WLP036 Yorkshire Square i has a bit of a handful that can get very clovey if you don't give it enough oxygen. The Ringwoods and Whitbreads from US labs all have their fans, as I say I quite like WLP041 for an unfussy strain that gives a nice drinkable pint, and some of the WLP02x strains are worth a play.

But it's no good having a lovely yeast if you let it clean up after itself too much, see this epic thread on fermentation profiles for British yeasts :
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...emps-and-profiles-cybi-other-thoughts.221817/
Just as some light reading, folk here will enjoy Jeff Alworth's series of articles on his impressions of British beer "in the wild" in 2019 - it's not all Fuggles and Goldings....
https://www.beervanablog.com/beervana/2019/9/10/juicy-bitter-on-cask
And his earlier paean to cask beer
https://www.beervanablog.com/beervana/2018/10/12/the-worlds-most-crafted-beer-is-cask-aleIf we ever wanted to exalt a beer type that requires the most hands fussing over it, a beer resistant to making at large scale, one that can’t really be put in a bottle, one that is as likely to wilt from environmental conditions as freshly-plucked lettuce, it is cask ale. When you’re served a pint at the right temperature, poured properly, that is perfectly fresh and well-handled, it’s a marvel of coordination. There’s a reason Americans picked the bones of British brewing while leaving its cask soul behind: it’s just too hard to make.
Great information here. I have ripped through a 55 kg bag of Chevalier this year - several different bitters, a mild, and an English porter. Outstanding. Currently enjoying the porter immensly. Done brewing for 2022 as I am off to the UK for Christmas including a post New Years trip up to Sheffield, perhaps a daytrip to Burton and a day in London, besides celebrating with family in the East Midlands. Will have waiting for me 3 bottles of the Gales Prize Old Ale rebrewed by Darkstar and 3 bottles of Fullers 2022 Vintage Ale. Will place an order for another 55kg with my local homebrew store for pickup on my return.
 
I got 10 bottles of the 2022 vintage, but I am gonna try to wait until next winter before I start drinking them, have a few older ones in the cellat and it's not really an everyday ale...
How is the Prize? I have never tried it but it seems lovely.
 
I got 10 bottles of the 2022 vintage, but I am gonna try to wait until next winter before I start drinking them, have a few older ones in the cellat and it's not really an everyday ale...
How is the Prize? I have never tried it but it seems lovely.
I've got a 09, 10, 11, 13 and 21 Vintage. Going to open on of the Gale's in Boxing Day
 
Interesting. The forum sent me a notice that I was responded to in post #93. I'm guessing it only looks at the first ten letters of a name?

"Wasn't me!" - Shaggy
 
No touchy two months 😳
How???
Brew two batches and lock away one of them. Then be as patient as possible with the first one, then slowly drink it, be a bit more patient, maybe brew another batch in between and two months are over. When you then finally open the first bottle of the first batch, you will see that you got an entirely different beer in front of you. Way more rounded, all the flavours have somehow melted together and the beer is much better in total. Homebrewtown suffers grately from impatience and too-early-consumptionism. This might come from the american beers, which indeed taste best as fresh as possible. But this IS NOT the case for balanced beers or malt forward beers. These need time. Even if already great directly after brewing, they will still be much better after sufficient time is given.

Why 2 months? I prime my kegs and most my to-be-consumed-mild ales are good at ~4weeks conditioning at room temp and ~1 week in the fridge.
Mild ales are designed to be consumed fresh, but even these need some conditioning, as you said yourself. I would keep mild ales at least 3 weeks, better 4, before having them, basically like what you are doing. Bitters have more ibus and more abv, they need more time. Some are good after one month, but most of them are at their best after about 2 months +- 2 weeks.

... but do not overdo this aging thing :D. There is also a decline at some point.

Oh, and one final thought, when kegging, priming is the only good way if you intend to mature them a bit. The priming will take care of all the unwanted oxygen that might have gotten into the beer during transfers and whantnot. Also, CO2 from the bottle contains a bit of O2, which might not matter much when being chilled and emptied wwithin a few weeks, but I wouldn't want to risk it if I intend to age the beer for one or two months.
 
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Brew two batches and lock away one of them. Then be as patient as possible with the first one, then slowly drink it, be a bit more patient, maybe brew another batch in between and two months are over. When you then finally open the first bottle of the first batch, you will see that you got an entirely different beer in front of you. Way more rounded, all the flavours have somehow melted together and the beer is much better in total. Homebrewtown suffers grately from impatience and too-early-consumptionism. This might come from the american beers, which indeed taste best as fresh as possible. But this IS NOT the case for balanced beers or malt forward beers. These need time. Even if already great directly after brewing, they will still be much better after sufficient time is given.


Mild ales are designed to be consumed fresh, but even these need some conditioning, as you said yourself. I would keep mild ales at least 3 weeks, better 4, before having them, basically like what you are doing. Bitters have more ibus and more abv, they need more time. Some are good after one month, but most of them are at their best after about 2 months +- 2 weeks.

... but do not overdo this aging thing :D. There is also a decline at some point.

Oh, and one final thought, when kegging, priming is the only good way if you intend to mature them a bit. The priming will take care of all the unwanted oxygen that might have gotten into the beer during transfers and whantnot. Also, CO2 from the bottle contains a bit of O2, which might not matter much when being chilled and emptied wwithin a few weeks, but I wouldn't want to risk it if I intend to age the beer for one or two months.
Luckily I brewed 10 gallons of finished bitter and have two kegs full, slowly carbonating. Haven’t touched it. The 25th, I’m pulling a sample out of one!
 
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