Brew Kettle Purchase Considerations

[Dan2539]

I'm going to be in the market for a good brew kettle soon to be able to do full boils with my extract brewing. I only plan on doing 5 gallon batches and have been looking at both the boilermaker as well as the polarware kettles. I plan on getting into all grain brewing a year or so from now and don't want to buy a product that I won't be using a year from now.
I really like the design of the boilermaker and am considering paying the steeper price for it because of the extra features it comes with standard. I really like the fact the boilermaker comes standard with a built in brew thermometer. My one concern is that I have heard people say that The 10 gallon kettle has it's temp probe set way too high for 5 gallon batches. Anyone encounter any problems with this?
The polarware pots also look tempting with their price tags as well, so I'm not sure where I should go from here. Are the polarwares pretty much just as adaptable as the boilermakers?

 

[ShortSnoutBrewing]

My opinion, and take that for whatever you want, is that if you have any shred of DIYness in you, or even just the thought of DIY in you get some kegs and convert them into kettles. You'll save A TON of cash better used on other equipment and it'll make you feel good too.

I haven't used either of the pots you talk about, sorry. I don't see the point of a thermometer on a boil kettle. If you plan on going all grain and doing bigger beers I'd also look at something bigger than 10 gallons. Not sure what the next step up is.

 

[boogyman]

If nothing else, if you buy a boilermaker or polarware pot now, you can use it as a HLT when you switch to all grain, then pick up whatever else you want/need later.

I have an 8 gallon pot which i started doing extract with, and i switched to all-grain (full boil, still using the same pot) and just added a 10 gallon cooler and some buckets.

 

[The Pol]

If you buy a Polarware and add all the stuff that the Boilermaker has, it will cost basically the same. The difference would be that the Boilermaker is a nicer kettle. Thy are designed with thier own falsies and pick ups to maximize performance. (.18gal deadspace!!)

10 gallon kettle thermo. location is at the 4 gal. mark, this is a limit imposed by the jig that Blichman uses to punch the hole.

The 15 gallon kettle is at about the 7 gallon mark.

 

[Thirsty_Monk]

IMO for 5 gal batches you need 10 gal kettle.
I would incourage you to consider MagaPots.
I would say spigot is must have and thermometer is nice to have.
Check MegaPots at Midwest Supply or Austin Homebrew Shop.

 

[CPTHOOK]

check out these SS fry pots
http://www.barbecueoutdoorgrills.com/stock-pots/
for the price i don't think you can beat them. Granted you would have to afix your valve and sight glass but i believe you could get it done for under $225 (62 qt).

 

[Beer:30]

My brewery consists of three 25 gallon Megapots and I could not be happier. I brew 15 gallon batches exclusively and these are perfect, and pretty tough to grow out of.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

I only have made one brew with my new Blichmann 10 gal Brew Kettle so take with a grain of salt.

The temp probe is too high to measure the hot liquor temp before adding grain (and this was a big-ish 1.069 Porter).
Even after adding the grain the Brewmometer did not give a good representation of the temp of the contents of the pot imo. It seems like it's reading the temp of the pot itself too much. When you stir and distribute the heat you get one temp reading but after the pot cools a bit the reading on the Brewmometer would drop but a Thermopen-type probe in the mash would read virtually the same temp as just after stirring. I just could not get a good representative reading of the mash using the Brewmometer.

I wondered if I'd need the sight glass and I really didn't. I only measure volume a couple of times throughout the process (and it's usually about the same volumes every time) and just don't see the need for a sight glass. A dowel works better imo.

Maybe it'll grow on me but, as I suspected, I just don't need these extra 'features'. And having all those penetrations in the wall of the pot just hinder stirring. I sort of wish I'd have just got a 10 gal Megapot with a spigot. The Blichmann is sort of thin-walled and there are several warnings to NOT lift the Blichmann when full. Looking at how the handles are attached to the kettle it's easy to see why.

 

[Catt22]

I only have made one brew with my new Blichmann 10 gal Brew Kettle so take with a grain of salt.

The temp probe is too high to measure the hot liquor temp before adding grain (and this was a big-ish 1.069 Porter).
Even after adding the grain the Brewmometer did not give a good representation of the temp of the contents of the pot imo. It seems like it's reading the temp of the pot itself too much. When you stir and distribute the heat you get one temp reading but after the pot cools a bit the reading on the Brewmometer would drop but a Thermopen-type probe in the mash would read virtually the same temp as just after stirring. I just could not get a good representative reading of the mash using the Brewmometer.

I wondered if I'd need the sight glass and I really didn't. I only measure volume a couple of times throughout the process (and it's usually about the same volumes every time) and just don't see the need for a sight glass. A dowel works better imo.

Maybe it'll grow on me but, as I suspected, I just don't need these extra 'features'. And having all those penetrations in the wall of the pot just hinder stirring. I sort of wish I'd have just got a 10 gal Megapot with a spigot. The Blichmann is sort of thin-walled and there are several warnings to NOT lift the Blichmann when full. Looking at how the handles are attached to the kettle it's easy to see why.

I completely agree. Also, all of the fittings are weldless. I have a 10 gallon Polarware w/FB that I really like. Very soon I will be buying the 60 qt Polarware kettle. IMO, the Polarware kettles are of much higher quality. Not as shiny, but they are built like a tank. I gave up entirely on the bi-metal dial type thermometers and I have no need of a sight tube. I also have a converted keg that I use, but I don't like that it's so heavy. I also don't like the concave bottom that a keg has.

 

[Dan2539]

I completely agree. Also, all of the fittings are weldless. I have a 10 gallon Polarware w/FB that I really like. Very soon I will be buying the 60 qt Polarware kettle. IMO, the Polarware kettles are of much higher quality. Not as shiny, but they are built like a tank. I gave up entirely on the bi-metal dial type thermometers and I have no need of a sight tube. I also have a converted keg that I use, but I don't like that it's so heavy. I also don't like the concave bottom that a keg has.

Have deffinitely been considering the polarware pots as well... I thought that the boilermaker as well as the polarware pots were constructed of the same guage stainless steel though.

 

[chemman14]

I only have made one brew with my new Blichmann 10 gal Brew Kettle so take with a grain of salt.

The temp probe is too high to measure the hot liquor temp before adding grain (and this was a big-ish 1.069 Porter).
Even after adding the grain the Brewmometer did not give a good representation of the temp of the contents of the pot imo. It seems like it's reading the temp of the pot itself too much. When you stir and distribute the heat you get one temp reading but after the pot cools a bit the reading on the Brewmometer would drop but a Thermopen-type probe in the mash would read virtually the same temp as just after stirring. I just could not get a good representative reading of the mash using the Brewmometer.

I wondered if I'd need the sight glass and I really didn't. I only measure volume a couple of times throughout the process (and it's usually about the same volumes every time) and just don't see the need for a sight glass. A dowel works better imo.

Maybe it'll grow on me but, as I suspected, I just don't need these extra 'features'. And having all those penetrations in the wall of the pot just hinder stirring. I sort of wish I'd have just got a 10 gal Megapot with a spigot. The Blichmann is sort of thin-walled and there are several warnings to NOT lift the Blichmann when full. Looking at how the handles are attached to the kettle it's easy to see why.

how are you supposed to get your beer in the fermenter then?

 

[Berkbeer]

I have the 10 gallon polarware pot. I bought it used for a spectacular price so that helped seal the deal for me. It is a great pot. I see no reason for a thermometer in a boil kettle, and the sightglass would end up broken in my current brewery setup. I just added the falsebottom and with my bent copper pipe pickup I can achieve an acceptable amount of deadspace esp. since it is my boil kettle and I brew 6 gallon batches to give myself leeway to leave behind trub. I currently am considering adding a modified keg to the setup and using the polarware for stepped mashes but it is not in the near future as the converted Igloo cooler has worked great so far. In essence I would say save the $ and go with the polarware.

 

[Catt22]

I thought that the boilermaker as well as the polarware pots were constructed of the same guage stainless steel though.

They may well be of the same gage steel. I don't really know, but they certainly don't feel like it when you handle them. It could be an illusion. My good friend has a Brutus clone rig and with three of the Blichmann 15 gal kettles and he likes them just fine. Me, not so much.

 

[Catt22]

I just added the falsebottom and with my bent copper pipe pickup I can achieve an acceptable amount of deadspace esp. since it is my boil kettle and I brew 6 gallon batches to give myself leeway to leave behind trub. I currently am considering adding a modified keg to the setup and using the polarware for stepped mashes but it is not in the near future as the converted Igloo cooler has worked great so far. In essence I would say save the $ and go with the polarware.

The 10 gal Polarware kettle has one gallon of dead space below the false bottom. IMO, the dead space volume doesn't matter at all. I'm currently using the kettle as a direct fired MT with continuous recirculation similar to what you are planning to do. The converted keg is my BK which also is equipped with a FB. Occasionally, I will use the keg for both mashing and boiling when doing 12 gallon batches of relatively high gravity beer. I can mash for 12 gallons in the 10 gal Polarware, but when I do, I have to keep the water/grain ratio fairly low and the tun is usually filled to the brim. I really need the bigger MT, but the budget is kind of tight at the moment.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

how are you supposed to get your beer in the fermenter then?

That's what the spigot (valve) is for. But in any case, I use a saucepot to ladle it from my old 8 gal Megapot into a funnel set into the carboy. I ladle most of it in and then lift/pour the last bit...works great. Since I'm using the Blichmann as a Mash Tun only I still have to do this step this way.

The Megapots are way thicker than than the Blichmann. Never used a Polarware.

After looking at the Megapot, Polarware, and Blichmann; I liked the false bottom and pick-up tube of the Blichmann the best (having never tried any of them). I still like that aspect of the Blichmann but I just don't find the Brewmometer or sight glass all that useful. I'll prob continue to use the Boilermaker for my Mash Tun and then get a big Megapot (like 15 gal) for a new boil kettle. That should make some 10 gal batches possible if I choose to. But if I could go back and do it again I'd prob just go with a more simple pot with spigot for my mash tun.

 

[chemman14]

That's what the spigot (valve) is for. But in any case, I use a saucepot to ladle it from my old 8 gal Megapot into a funnel set into the carboy. I ladle most of it in and then lift/pour the last bit...works great. Since I'm using the Blichmann as a Mash Tun only I still have to do this step this way.

The Megapots are way thicker than than the Blichmann. Never used a Polarware.

After looking at the Megapot, Polarware, and Blichmann; I liked the false bottom and pick-up tube of the Blichmann the best (having never tried any of them). I still like that aspect of the Blichmann but I just don't find the Brewmometer or sight glass all that useful. I'll prob continue to use the Boilermaker for my Mash Tun and then get a big Megapot (like 15 gal) for a new boil kettle. That should make some 10 gal batches possible if I choose to. But if I could go back and do it again I'd prob just go with a more simple pot with spigot for my mash tun.

right, but I planned on letting gravity do the work and not a pump

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

right, but I planned on letting gravity do the work and not a pump

Me too, I don't pump anything but IC water.

 

[Berkbeer]

Using a pick up has greatly reduced the dead space for me. Just a peice of bent 3/8 copper it rotate it depending on who much liquid I want left behind.

The 10 gal Polarware kettle has one gallon of dead space below the false bottom. IMO, the dead space volume doesn't matter at all. I'm currently using the kettle as a direct fired MT with continuous recirculation similar to what you are planning to do. The converted keg is my BK which also is equipped with a FB. Occasionally, I will use the keg for both mashing and boiling when doing 12 gallon batches of relatively high gravity beer. I can mash for 12 gallons in the 10 gal Polarware, but when I do, I have to keep the water/grain ratio fairly low and the tun is usually filled to the brim. I really need the bigger MT, but the budget is kind of tight at the moment.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

Using a pick up has greatly reduced the dead space for me. Just a peice of bent 3/8 copper it rotate it depending on who much liquid I want left behind.

I was a bit surprised at how little there was at the bottom of the pot when I cleaned it. It had sat there for several hours, letting every last drop drip from the grain, and there was almost exactly 1 qt of liquid at the bottom.

 

[jamest22]

i just replaced my old kettle for full boils. i went very budget minded and picked up one of these: (free shipping if you get the amazon prime trial and then cancel)

36 Quart Stainless for $75
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JXYUA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[johnnyc]

My buddy just got an AWESOME deal on an aluminum brewpot. He found a restaurant supply place, didn't realize it was wholesale to businesses only, and got a 40 qt heavy duty restaurant grade pot with sturdy handles for $40!!! The cashier let it slide "this time". If I didn't have keggles I'd be jealous.

 

[schristian619]

right, but I planned on letting gravity do the work and not a pump

I use gravity with my current set up. I just attach a short piece of sanitized tubing to the outlet on the ball valve and let it drop into my carboy. Works very well for me.