Brew kettle fitting welding

[ExHempKnight]

I brought my new brew kettle (62-qt Bayou Classic w/ fryer basket) to a buddy to weld a stainless coupler into for a ball valve and pickup tube.

The outside is welded fine. He had a little difficulty due to the difference in material thickness between the pot and the coupling, but it came out great.

The problem surfaced when he tried to weld the inside. He was able to weld the top half of the coupler. But he couldn't see the bottom half, and could barely fit fit the TIG torch underneath to weld it.

The fitting was too close to the bottom of the pot. However, it needs to be this way, as it needs to be below the basket (I'm making a single-vessel system). He tried using a mirror to see, and attempted to weld the bottom portion, but only succeeded in blowing a hole through the pot.

Any ideas on a fix? My idea so far is to clean and grind smooth the welds he was able to make on the inside, and fill the remaining gap with silver solder. I know the gap, while really small, still needs filled to prevent any nasties from growing there.

 

[BendBrewer]

I understand this is too late, but those weld-less valves work just fine for the next guy.

 

[stevehaun]

You don't have to weld the inside on a boil kettle. No worries about "nasties" since you are boiling the wort for > 1 hour. I would try to have him repair the hole from the outside and call it good. The main issue for you now is being leak-free.

 

[ExHempKnight]

Yeah, but the inside is kinda ugly. And there's a pinhole leak. I'm thinking the solder idea will fit the bill.

Though incase the solder doesn't work... I know JBweld is food safe, but can it withstand boiling temps?

 

[gopherh3]

If he blew all the way through, cut a piece of brass to butt up against the hole on the inside and then just fill it with weld filler from the outside. (strike the ark and feed wire if you're using TIG, straight SS wire for your MIG, or plain old stainless stick rod.) when you're done, pull the brass away (use gloves) and you're done.

 

[ExHempKnight]

Unfortunately a little late, but that's pretty cool.

He filled the hole right after he blew it, and it looks fine from the outside. The inside, however, is what's ugly. I cleaned it up fairly well, but there's still a few pits (and one pinhole leak) on the inside.

I'm going to try soldering up the pits, the pinhole, and the remaining gap on the backside of the fitting (where he was unable to fit the torch).

 

[ExHempKnight]

This is now a moot point. I've cut out the fitting and made a patch out of stainless sheet metal. Taking it to a shop to weld in the patch.

Weldless fittings are in the mail.

 

[klyph]

You could also have the fitting welded in flush on the inside. This would make it much easier for him to weld all the way around it. It would stick out a little far, but it's welded, so you don't have to worry about breaking it off.

 

[ExHempKnight]

Meh. The valve will also have a QD on the end, and I don't want the whole thing sticking a mile out into space. At this point, weldless is easier and less headache.

 

[klyph]

He probably could have welded it if he used a gas lens and stuck the tungsten out, but weldless fittings work just fine.