Bray's One Month Mead

[loveofrose]

So I got a 1 gallon batch going. When I shake, how do I go about it without having an Mead explosion? Is foaming normal? Should I shake with the airlock on?

Gently at first with the airlock on. You can get a bit more vigorous after the initial bomb of fizz is finished.

Careful adding nutrients. Either add very slowly or dissolve in a tsp of water first.

 

[loveofrose]

I now have some BOMM that is 3 months old. I've been wondering if age can improve an already good mead. Well, of course it can. This mead at 3 months is the equivalent of a 2 year old mead I made with Wyeast dry mead yeast.

My cyser BOMM has cleared nicely in a month and is quite good already.
At this rate, I don't think I'll ever need another yeast!

I would love to hear other folks progress if you have any comments.

 

[JSappenf]

My adulterated BOMM is still bubbling. I am very curious about how it will turn out since the fermentation has been so vigorous. Next Sunday will be 4 weeks.

 

[Atek]

An update here, my true BOMM is still bubbling a bit and cloudy, where my jBOMM (nottingham) is also still bubbling but is MUCH more clear than the BOMM. Both smell the same (good).

On a side note it surprises me that no acids are added to this, guess I'll have to wait and taste before making that judgement however.

 

[loveofrose]

Adding acids upfront is no longer advised as it drops the pH too much for the yeasties. This can often result in stuck ferments.

Instead, let the ferment finish, then add acid to your taste.

 

[JSappenf]

So I pitched two vials of Belgian Golden Ale yeast WLP570 4 weeks and 2 days ago. It appears to still be bubbling (maybe not as vigorously). Still waiting for it to finish. It doesn't look like it will finish before Thanksgiving, but it will be close.

 

[loveofrose]

What is the gravity? Bubbles don't mean anything. It could have been done two weeks ago and still bubble.

Also, I use Wyeast 1388. While 1388 and WLP570 originate from Duvel, they do have different characteristics associated with how the companies propagate them. I'm not sure if your mead is a fair comparison as a result of this.

You haven't mentioned the most important thing though.
How does it taste? Cloudy or not it should still taste good if it is a comparable yeast.

 

[Shellysbrew]

That you for posting this. I need to do some shopping and then I will be trying this. It will be my first time at making any thing other then milk beer.

 

[Descender]

What is the gravity? Bubbles don't mean anything. It could have been done two weeks ago and still bubble.
.

If it bubbles, it's still making alcohol, right?

 

[MarshmallowBlue]

Yes, LoR went a little overboard as far as meaning nothing. They do mean something, but most people relate it to these things,

1. A batch starting/ not starting (wrong because a bad seal may mean ferment but no bubbles. Check your gravity)
2. A batch is bubbling less than another one so it's not going as fast (Bubbles from batch to batch DO mean nothing since Co2 will need more pressure before pushing larger amounts of water / fluid up the airlock)
3. A batch is finished (It may mean it has slowed down, but won't tell you that its stopped. Check your gravity)

 

[RegarRenill]

Does the potassium carbonate go in only at the start or at the breaks, as well?

 

[loveofrose]

Does the potassium carbonate go in only at the start or at the breaks, as well?

Only at the start.

 

[estricklin]

Subbed.

 

[RegarRenill]

I figured as much , just wanted to confirm. i just bottled my 1st mead (brewed at the end of April). It was a huge hit, but the next few batches (brewed 1 month apart) are still new and harsh tasting. This recipe should give me a way to mollify the people clamoring for more of my mead without having to wait a year til it mellows, lol.

 

[RegarRenill]

Ignore this posting, thanks.

 

[loveofrose]

If it bubbles, it's still making alcohol, right?

While It's true that yeast turn sugar into ethanol and CO2, much of the gas is dissolved into solution. Over time, the CO2 will degas out of solution, but this can take a long time. I've had meads that hit a gravity of 0.98 in two weeks continue to bubble for a year. This is why I say bubbles are no indication as to whether fermentation is complete.

 

[Edbert]

I just started another batch of BOMM, tonight I add a round of nutrients. I noticed I am very low on Fermaid-K, but I have a lot of other brand nutrients, either Go-Ferm or BrewVint (cannot remember which). Is it okay to substitute? I think I have enough "K" to finish this batch, just wondering about the future.

A few more questions came up because I am used to making beer not mead...

• Does it matter what temperature it is stored at after the final round of nutrients and agitation?
• How about light, should it be stored in a dark place like beer?
• The sediment, it is bad because of flavor or just because cloudiness is not desired.

The first batch took some getting used to, it was VERY pale yellow and VERY clear (looked like bud light without the carbonation/head), my final gravity was under 1.00. My tastes, I have to confess I was not all that pleased when I first tasted it, I can definitely sense the "dry" term, not exactly like dry wine but similar. I also DEFINITELY prefer it sweetened. By adding an ounce or so of honey to a glass it tastes more like I expected. Don't get me wrong though...I enjoy it enough to make another batch!

But I was wondering if it makes sense to add several ounces to the gallon after it reaches the 1-month mark. It would make serving it much easier and more simple. Would that start up another fermetation cycle or all the critters dead by then?

 

[loveofrose]

Is it okay to substitute?
It's better than nothing, but I cannot say if the results will be comparable.


[*]Does it matter what temperature it is stored at after the final round of nutrients and agitation?
Nope, you can ferment and store at 80 F and it will still be clean.


[*]How about light, should it be stored in a dark place like beer?
I generally store in the dark, but it is likely a non issue. Beer hops reacts with light. Mead doesn't have hops.


[*]The sediment, it is bad because of flavor or just because cloudiness is not desired.
A little of both. While this particular yeast sediment isn't too bad, it does contribute some flavor that I don't care for.

I can definitely sense the "dry" term...
Yes, most people like to backsweeten a bit. Save a bottle of dry for the 3 month mark and you may think differently.

But I was wondering if it makes sense to add several ounces to the gallon after it reaches the 1-month mark. It would make serving it much easier and more simple. Would that start up another fermetation cycle or all the critters dead by then?
I often backsweeten this way. At this point, it should be at max ABV tolerance. I add some honey and mix. Take a gravity reading. Wait a week and see if it is stable. If stable and above 12-13% ABV, then it's good to bottle.

 

[Newsman]

Shake once a day to aerate for the first week. No water in airlock for 7 days.
Don't forget to monitor the gravity with a hydrometer so that you know when to add the nutrients!

Any reason you couldn't use pure O2 and an aerating wand/stone?

 

[loveofrose]

Any reason you couldn't use pure O2 and an aerating wand/stone?

As far as oxygen is concerned, that would be fine. But you still need to degas to get the excess CO2 out of solution. CO2 is very acidic and can drop the pH.

 

[JSappenf]

Any reason you couldn't use pure O2 and an aerating wand/stone?

So the "How to Brew" book I am reading said that pure O2 hasn't shown to have any benefit compared to simple aeration. In fact, during taste testing, the pure 02 batches got poorer ratings.

 

[RegarRenill]

Another question: how well would yeast as hint work for this? I'm on a limited brewing budget (expecting a baby in January), so the $6.25 +shipping could get out of my price range quickly...but my one buddy washes his yeasts and has great results (from beer). Wasn't sure if its a viable option since mead stresses the yeast more from what I've read?

 

[loveofrose]

Another question: how well would yeast as hint work for this? I'm on a limited brewing budget (expecting a baby in January), so the $6.25 +shipping could get out of my price range quickly...but my one buddy washes his yeasts and has great results (from beer). Wasn't sure if its a viable option since mead stresses the yeast more from what I've read?

Yeast as hint? I don't understand the question.
If you mean reuse the same yeast through washing or rack a new batch on the yeast cake of a previous batch, then yes, that works. I've done it for three generations with no effect on performance.

 

[Newsman]

So the "How to Brew" book I am reading said that pure O2 hasn't shown to have any benefit compared to simple aeration. In fact, during taste testing, the pure 02 batches got poorer ratings.

Then why do all the "experts" tell you to use pure O2 for 30 seconds over using compressed air for 5 minutes? Not trying to start an argument, but just about every thread on aerating wort on here that I"ve read says to use pure (non-medical) O2 and a stone for 30 seconds or aerate using like an aquarium pump and stone for 5 minutes. None of them have commented on poor flavors, etc.

 

[RegarRenill]

Yeast as hint? I don't understand the question.
If you mean reuse the same yeast through washing or rack a new batch on the yeast cake of a previous batch, then yes, that works. I've done it for three generations with no effect on performance.

Yes, yeast washing is what I was asking about. Sorry, am using the app on my iPhone. Damned small keyboard, chubby fingers and autocorrect conspire against me. Thanks for the response!

 

[JSappenf]

Then why do all the "experts" tell you to use pure O2 for 30 seconds over using compressed air for 5 minutes? Not trying to start an argument, but just about every thread on aerating wort on here that I"ve read says to use pure (non-medical) O2 and a stone for 30 seconds or aerate using like an aquarium pump and stone for 5 minutes. None of them have commented on poor flavors, etc.

John J. Palmer How to Brew 2006 page 71

"Interestingly enough, that also seems to be the consensus of Ron Cooper and The Strand Brewers club of Redondo Beach, California, in the 'For Geeks Only' section of the March/April 2004 issue of Zymurgy magazine. In the article 'Oxygen and Hydrogen Peroxide in Beer,' they brewed twenty-three batches of various beers, using shaking/pouring, air pumps, oxygen tank, and hydrogen peroxide. Why they could not make any definitive conclusions, competition results for the various beers indicated that the oxygen tank beers 'seemed thinner or washed out, like smaller beers.' Malt and hobp flavors seemed reduced. This perception was even greater in the hydrogen peroxide-treated batch (5 milliliters per 5 gallons), where a 47 IBU IPA was judged 'thin and estery,' 'not much hop,' 'sweet and insipid.' All of the beers had fermented well with good attenuation; the shortcomings may be due to an oxidized wort, as opposed to an aerated one."

 

[Newsman]

John J. Palmer How to Brew 2006 page 71

"Interestingly enough, that also seems to be the consensus of Ron Cooper and The Strand Brewers club of Redondo Beach, California, in the 'For Geeks Only' section of the March/April 2004 issue of Zymurgy magazine. In the article 'Oxygen and Hydrogen Peroxide in Beer,' they brewed twenty-three batches of various beers, using shaking/pouring, air pumps, oxygen tank, and hydrogen peroxide. Why they could not make any definitive conclusions, competition results for the various beers indicated that the oxygen tank beers 'seemed thinner or washed out, like smaller beers.' Malt and hobp flavors seemed reduced. This perception was even greater in the hydrogen peroxide-treated batch (5 milliliters per 5 gallons), where a 47 IBU IPA was judged 'thin and estery,' 'not much hop,' 'sweet and insipid.' All of the beers had fermented well with good attenuation; the shortcomings may be due to an oxidized wort, as opposed to an aerated one."

Did the book go into whether this was done as a double-blind study or did the tasters go in knowing which beers were which? If they knew, going in, which were which, then one should discount their findings as possibly biased There's a reason medical studies are supposed to be "double-blind" you know.

 

[JSappenf]

As of having performed some "medical studies", I am well aware of their nuances and potential for biases. If you are really interested in how they performed their studies, I am sure it would be simple to look up. I have yet to read any evidence that using pure oxygen provides some benefit to the brewing process.

 

[loveofrose]

I don't know if it is detrimental or not to use pure oxygen. Really could care less because the way I do it now works (without).

If someone is willing to do a side by side experiment they could settle the matter, but right now it's all hand waving and wild conjecture.

 

[wuk-i]

I've been a lurker for over a year on here. This thread got me off my butt to register.

Would this recipe work as a pyment?

 

[loveofrose]

Someone over at gotmead tried it as a pyment and was very happy with the results. Just make sure your SG is in the the 1.1-1.09 range by reducing the honey to compensate for the sugar in the grape juice. Other than that, it is the same protocol. Let us know how it turns out!

 

[wuk-i]

Someone over at gotmead tried it as a pyment and was very happy with the results. Just make sure your SG is in the the 1.1-1.09 range by reducing the honey to compensate for the sugar in the grape juice. Other than that, it is the same protocol. Let us know how it turns out!

The juice I'm getting has a brix of 22 or OG of 1.092, so I really won't be using much honey will I? Unless I want it sweet, right?

 

[loveofrose]

You can use half grape juice and half water/honey. Or 2/3 and 1/3.
Whatever you choose is fine.

 

[rfsido]

What yeast would you recommend for bottle conditioning? I've gotten a request for a lightly-sparkling mead.
Should I use pasteur champagne, or will that ferment sugars that were beyond the reach of the Strong Ale yeast and cause bombs?
Or, should I just add priming sugar the way I would for beer and hope that the existing yeast can finish the job?

 

[loveofrose]

What yeast would you recommend for bottle conditioning? I've gotten a request for a lightly-sparkling mead.
Should I use pasteur champagne, or will that ferment sugars that were beyond the reach of the Strong Ale yeast and cause bombs?
Or, should I just add priming sugar the way I would for beer and hope that the existing yeast can finish the job?

Adding priming sugar at bottling would probably work. I've seen this yeast hit 14.4% before. If you want to make sure it works, use a SG of 1.09.

 

[Atek]

I racked this today and tasted, not bad, definitely cleaner than most meads at this age but... As for enjoy ability at one month... Not there yet. That being said I still can tell this is going to be one of THE best meads I've ever made. I've made quite a few....

 

[loveofrose]

I racked this today and tasted, not bad, definitely cleaner than most meads at this age but... As for enjoy ability at one month... Not there yet. That being said I still can tell this is going to be one of THE best meads I've ever made. I've made quite a few....

To those with refined mead palettes, 3 months is money. I have some tucked away for long term aging to see how it developes over time. The point of this protocol is to be a drinkable traditional at one month, but that doesn't mean age won't improve it! I think folks new to Mead will like it at one month. I tend to wait for the 3 month mark before I get into it.

 

[jhm614]

Got my first batch going! Found some Orange Blossom honey at Wally World -- 12oz for $3.85. Newbie questions:
Why no water in the air lock for the first 7 days?
How does de-gassing every day help?

 

[MarshmallowBlue]

I'd put water in the airlock.

CO2 is produced by yeast during fermentation, it stays in solution and is toxic to yeast (just like we breathe out CO2 which is toxic to us). Degassing it removes it form solutions for healthier ferments and less issues.

 

[Edbert]

I just racked batch #2 to a new bottle for drinking at 31 days. I have an immature mead pallete and am far FAR from a conniosuer. But for this batch I had much more sucess in final clarity, and when I removed it from the "primary" I added what was left from the 3lbs of honey. To make room in the 1Gal bottle I had no choice but to drink it. In my noob opionion is was DELICOUS! Probably too sweet and green for you old hands but I can definitely say I like this stuff. Time will tell if I can leave some in a bottle for 3 months or not, I'm betting on "no".

Batch 3 was started as soon as I could clean and sanitize the equipment.