Bottom draining keg mash tun false bottom

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DPB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
136
Reaction score
0
Thinking about making a bottom draining mash tun from a spare keg so I can start doing more no sparge brews. I currently have a newly created rims system and was wondering if there is a recommended size/type false bottom so I know how large to make the keg opening. Also, I was considering using a few small dabs of food grade, high temp. silicone adhesive to keep the false bottom in place during the mash (shouldn't be a problem cleaning tun by blasting the bits of grain out with a hose).

Thanks!
 
My bottom draining MLT is an upside down keg- using the sanke connection as the drain. Bobby_M at brewhardware.com sells the perfect set up for bottom draining MLTs that are set up like that- https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/sankebdrain3.htm

I then used a "Jaybird" false bottom with a stand- http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.c...lse_Bottom_Bottom_Draining_Level_1_Stand.php- with a reverse hinge (because the top is not straight up and down, since the keg is upside down, if that makes sense).
 
Thanks Yooper!

The triclamp connection looks perfect.

In regards to the false bottom, do you have any issues with it floating and
did you purchase the level one stand or the level two?

Thanks again!
 
Thanks Horseshoot. Looks like I'll be contacting Bobby again for the fittings.
Curious to know if your false bottom tends to float when mashing/sparging with 12+ gallons of water. Some have recommended silver soldering threaded rod to the bottom of keg poking it through the false bottom and securing false bottom with a nut to keep it in place.

Do you notice any channeling when you recirculate? Thanks!
 
No problem.

I've not noticed a tendency for the false bottom to float. Altho, I must confess, I'm not sure I'd know what to look for. It's pretty heavy.

I've not had issues with channeling.
 
Thanks Yooper!

The triclamp connection looks perfect.

In regards to the false bottom, do you have any issues with it floating and
did you purchase the level one stand or the level two?

Thanks again!

I purchased the level one stand. It never floats, so no problems there. However, there is one problem. If you look at the upside down keg, there is a 'flower petal' type looking indentation on the bottom, and grain slips down under the stand there. I contacted Jay about it, and he was going to make me a level 1 type stand that was further out to sit more on the bottom and avoid that indentation (you'll have to look at the keg from the top, looking into it to see what I mean, I think), because I did have some issues as a result of that. The grain itself wasn't much, but I also would get air in the piping and it would create a vacuum, even if I put water in there first. I'd blow in the ballvalve to 'gurgle' it out, and then it would work- but strike water is HOT and I didn't enjoy that a bit!

So, recently, I got a BIAB bag from Wilserbrewer, and put that over the false bottom and lined the keg- and it works like a charm! If it does sort of create a vacuum, I just pull the grainbag away from the sides, and I can hear the water go 'glug, glug' down in there, and then I'm fine for recirculating and using the pump.

In retrospect, I don't think it was the false bottom's stand at all, and the minimal amount of grain was never the issue so I think most people would find that false bottom and stand perfectly adequate. Something in my system with the plumbing and pump created the vacuum, and the bag was a cheap and easy fix- and made cleaning 100% easier besides!
 
Thanks again for the responses. My keg has the "flower petal" indentation as well. I'll be contacting Jaybird for the false bottom and will be sure to mention this when I order.
 
I'm on the upside-down keggle + Bobby bottom-drain fitment + Jaybird false bottom with lvl 1 stand team. I crush at 0.028" and had some problems draining on a couple brews, even with rice hulls. Tried the wilser BIAB method as per Yooper's suggestion and first brew went fine with no rice hulls.


One extra piece of info, I had asked Jaybird if there was any max weight restriction on the fb + lvl 1 stand and he assured me the tolerance was far over the amount of grain + water you could fit in a keggle.
 
I have a bottom drain keggle mash tun as well. I have the PICO style false bottom and grain always gets passed it. It's a nightmare almost every brew day since the grain clogs the 1/2in tube that runs to the ball valve. the quickest solution i have come up with is to force my sparge water back into the bottom of the mash tun with the assistance from my chugger pump to clear the clog. however, I have been thinking of recirculating from the bottom drain into the lock line sparge arm that I have when I add the grain. I'm thinking this may not clog the tube if there is a constant flow of water.
Regardless of this....

...I have just ordered a bag from Wilser and I'm hoping that this solves my issues. The only thing i'm worried about is loss of efficiency. Yoopers, Did you notice any loss when you first started using the bag?

I have been getting around 85% efficiency so a minor loss would be that big of a deal.

Thanks!
Kevin
 
...I have just ordered a bag from Wilser and I'm hoping that this solves my issues. The only thing i'm worried about is loss of efficiency. Yoopers, Did you notice any loss when you first started using the bag?

I have been getting around 85% efficiency so a minor loss would be that big of a deal.


I don't think the bag itself will cause any loss in efficiency. For some, I would say it might offer some assistance on gaining efficiency as you can crush more fine (though if recirculating, you might want to keep it back a bit - been meaning to play with this).
 
Back
Top