I bottled an IPA the other day, my second batch, and was unfortunately by my lonesome this time (had 2 friends helping with the first batch.) It was somewhat of a disaster. My 5 gallon batch yielded only 36 bottles, partly due to not realizing that a handful of my bottle were screwtops, but a more troubling reason was my capper. Now, full disclosure, the first time I bottled beer, I was filling and not capping, and my friend didn't seem to have any trouble with it. This time, however, I had myriad problems. On some bottles, the cap wouldn't seal all the way forcing me to either pop it off and try again, or keep pressing down on the capper to get it on. A good amount of pressure is needed to get them on, but sometimes the very same amount of pressure I used on the last bottle would snap the top of the next bottle clean off. I tried switching my method up (using less pressure, using more pressure, adjusting grip, etc.) but I just kept breaking and/or not being able to get the cap to fully seal. Is this operator error, since my friend didn't seem to have much trouble with it last time, or could I possibly just have a ****ty capper? It's nothing fancy, it's just the basic one that comes with most homebrew starter kits with the 2 handles.
Bottling woes
- Thread starter BrettV
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mlyday
Well-Known Member
Having the right bottles makes all the difference in the world. Most of my bottles are from smithwicks or bells bottle, those bottles take the cap with ease. This last batch I had a few of the founders shorter fatter bottles. I kept feeling like I was going to snap the top off, or that they didnt get a good seal.
impur
Well-Known Member
Hmm odd. I bottled last night, and haven't had any problems with that same capper. I have the red batwing looking one. Actually my 3 year old niece has no problems using it, since she HAD to help somehow. If you were breaking the bottles you are obviously using too much force.
I just set the cap on the bottle, open the capper wide, sit the cup looking middle of the capper right on top of the cap on the bottle and push down the handles evenly. I don't even have to apply much pressure.
You'll get it, just practice. Caps are cheap.
I just set the cap on the bottle, open the capper wide, sit the cup looking middle of the capper right on top of the cap on the bottle and push down the handles evenly. I don't even have to apply much pressure.
You'll get it, just practice. Caps are cheap.
See, that's the thing. I always made sure the caps were on properly, but I usually had to put a good amount of pressure to get it on. Only a few times did the cap go on without putting some muscle into it. There was virtually no way to tell whether that amount of pressure would successfully get the cap on, or if it would break the bottle.
Justibone
Well-Known Member
I hear that!
Did any of your non-screwtop bottles give you trouble? Probably not.
Were both of your two friends capping? And was one holding the bottle while the other worked the capper? That's what SWMBO does for me, and it helps tremendously.
This can happen for either screwtop or pryoff bottles.
These are the cheaper bottles; often they say "do not refill". The glass is thinner, I think, and b/c they are screwtop you really have to crank down on them, so they break more easily.
Rapid temperature changes can also make the glass more fragile and prone to snapping.
Both! Haha. No, seriously, if you want an easy brew day just go ahead and buy some bottles meant for homebrewers. Most of my beer goes into storebought bombers nowadays, and that simplifies brewday quite a bit.
It was only the pry-offs that gave me trouble, because I didn't even attempt to cap the screwtops. At first I was dumping them because I didn't want to contaminate the beer by transfering it, but after I realized I had filled about 5 or 6 screwtops, I said "EFF THIS!" and transfered them to another bottle anyway, and just marked them with a little x so I knew which ones were transfered and why they might taste funny if there was any contamination.
I do use a wide variety of bottles. There was everything from Smuttynose and Sam Adams to Negro Modelo and Pacifico. Because all of the labels were scrubbed off, I don't know which are which when I'm filling them (except for some, either because the name of the brewery is etched on the bottle, or some have a distinct shape.) Maybe it's time to bite the bullet and buy some homebrew bottles.
Justibone
Well-Known Member
I made that recipe up. Next time I'll use more brown sugar and less bittering hops, though, because you can barely taste the brown sugar. I'll have to post the recipe later -- my brew book is at home.
It's all-extract ATM, but it could stand a partial mash TBH.
It's all-extract ATM, but it could stand a partial mash TBH.
tallybrewer
Well-Known Member
I use the "red capper" that came with my starter kit, too. The only problem I've ever had with shearing the tops off bottles when capping is when using bottles from Anchor.
I love Sierra Nevada bottles because the labels come off so easily.
I love Sierra Nevada bottles because the labels come off so easily.
ReverseApacheMaster
Well-Known Member
I've been using the black wing capper. I've only had one bottle snap and only recently experienced a rash of poorly capped bottles, which I believe may actually be related to the caps, rather than the capper.
It sounds like you are trying to push straight down on the capper, which is putting pressure on the neck of the bottle until they snap. Instead, try to focus your strength on turning the wings inward towards the bottle (following the motion of the wings). I find this makes capping easier and less disastrous.
It sounds like you are trying to push straight down on the capper, which is putting pressure on the neck of the bottle until they snap. Instead, try to focus your strength on turning the wings inward towards the bottle (following the motion of the wings). I find this makes capping easier and less disastrous.
I've got the red wing capper. I've only used it to bottle a case of 22 ounce bombers (bought new from brew store), and 18 sam adams bottles. No major crapups yet.
I just place it on top, and press the wings home to their stops. All a smooth motion, no slamming them down or anything. Just press the device, release. After they're all done, I go back and pick each one up and try to twist the cap a little. They've all been tight so far.
I try not to push DOWN on the bottle at all, as it's not really needed. Just work the device itself to it's full range of motion, no need to lean down whatsoever.
I just place it on top, and press the wings home to their stops. All a smooth motion, no slamming them down or anything. Just press the device, release. After they're all done, I go back and pick each one up and try to twist the cap a little. They've all been tight so far.
I try not to push DOWN on the bottle at all, as it's not really needed. Just work the device itself to it's full range of motion, no need to lean down whatsoever.
Yeah, the problem hasn't been having to lean on the bottle and apply pressure in the middle; it's the amount of pressure I have to apply to the wings to get them to fully seal the bottle. I kept having caps where they had not been properly sealed all the way around the mouth making me concerned that gas could escape and air could get in leaving with flat, skunky beer. I guess it's hard to describe without a visual aid.
I used a wing capper for all of one cap. Then dad let me use "old rusty". The scariest antique all steel bench capper, you have ever seen.
About 1 week later of scouring Craig's list, I found some "beer making equipment" at a garage sale. I was the only one to show up in the am and ask for it. they produce: a bucket, some really small tubing, a bung, 3 piece airlock, and a nice bench capper as well as 2 corkers. The ONLY item I had any use for was the capper and airlock. I offered the $10.00 and they said all yours.
I do alot of my capping solo and I LOVE my bench capper that may be a better solution for doing things solo for you.
I also want to add that dad had some old soda bottle caps (Sunkist) and I thought old rusty was gonna crush the bottles before they went on. It was pretty scary but right before what I guess was the bottles breaking point the cap went on. I tell this because it seems that the caps have some play in how easy they go on. I find the red and green ones seem to be super easy and suspect that the O2/soda caps require much more force to get on.
Best of luck and If a bench capper is not in your future, you can always bottle cap water to test your skills.
About 1 week later of scouring Craig's list, I found some "beer making equipment" at a garage sale. I was the only one to show up in the am and ask for it. they produce: a bucket, some really small tubing, a bung, 3 piece airlock, and a nice bench capper as well as 2 corkers. The ONLY item I had any use for was the capper and airlock. I offered the $10.00 and they said all yours.
I do alot of my capping solo and I LOVE my bench capper that may be a better solution for doing things solo for you.
I also want to add that dad had some old soda bottle caps (Sunkist) and I thought old rusty was gonna crush the bottles before they went on. It was pretty scary but right before what I guess was the bottles breaking point the cap went on. I tell this because it seems that the caps have some play in how easy they go on. I find the red and green ones seem to be super easy and suspect that the O2/soda caps require much more force to get on.
Best of luck and If a bench capper is not in your future, you can always bottle cap water to test your skills.
The caps that worked easily with the red baron bottle capper for me were these plain simple ones: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/plain-gold-caps-144-count.html
superjunior
Well-Known Member
+1 to a bench capper. me and a freind filled and capped 5 cases of beer (22oz) in an hour and a half yesterday with no problems
beersydoesit
Well-Known Member
I use a red wing capper and don't have trouble.
Some bottles I had a lot of trouble with when I started, so I don't use them anymore. European bottles typically with a "bronze" color as opposed to plain brown bottles. Mostly the necks seemed just a bit small and the caps didn't seat convincingly.
Cappers are simple. You are just forcing a metal cup down over the cap and bottle. Pressure doesn't really make a loose cap fit, though perhaps you can force a too small cap over a big neck.
I wager you'll find a pattern in the bottles that don't work well. Don't use those anymore.
I stopped using Paulaner, and some English bottles.
I put the cap in the capper, and then apply the capper to the bottle for what that's worth.
Some bottles I had a lot of trouble with when I started, so I don't use them anymore. European bottles typically with a "bronze" color as opposed to plain brown bottles. Mostly the necks seemed just a bit small and the caps didn't seat convincingly.
Cappers are simple. You are just forcing a metal cup down over the cap and bottle. Pressure doesn't really make a loose cap fit, though perhaps you can force a too small cap over a big neck.
I wager you'll find a pattern in the bottles that don't work well. Don't use those anymore.
I stopped using Paulaner, and some English bottles.
I put the cap in the capper, and then apply the capper to the bottle for what that's worth.
How do you know they weren't sealed? I've used a wing capper for years with no problem. It takes remarkably little pressure to cap - if you're bearing down, that would be wrong, in my experience. Could it be the caps were just fine, you thought they weren't, so you kept using more and more pressure until things got all bollixed up?
beersydoesit
Well-Known Member
I can't speak for Brett but I could take the caps off with my fingers. Even if they were sealed, It wasn't good enough for me.
a good capper is definitely NOT something you should cheap out on. Given that bench cappers are only *barely* more money than some of the wing cappers out there, it really puzzles me why they're not way more popular. A bench capper makes an otherwise tedious chore a lot nicer, and I can cap any bottle I come across with impunity - twist top or otherwise!
I also highly recommend that you splurge on a bottle tree and vinator bottle sanitizer, to make bottling almost pleasant.
I also highly recommend that you splurge on a bottle tree and vinator bottle sanitizer, to make bottling almost pleasant.
machinist09
Active Member
I just gotta say that the first batch I ever did was with the two-handled capper. I broke about 6 bottles and had nearly a dozen without a good seal. I continue to use screw-tops to this day without any problems. The solution: an upright, bench-mount type capper.
You do have to use the right bottles, and I'm not sure what the commercial bottle situation is in the USA, but here, 90% of all beer comes in the same bottles, and we pay a recycling deposit(which we get back, of course). These are all 341ml brown glass. They work just fine.
You do have to use the right bottles, and I'm not sure what the commercial bottle situation is in the USA, but here, 90% of all beer comes in the same bottles, and we pay a recycling deposit(which we get back, of course). These are all 341ml brown glass. They work just fine.
Another vote for bench cappers.
With any equipment/procedure a lot of it has to do with experience but even then thin bottles and lousy equipment is going to make your life much harder than it has to be.
EDIT: And I invested in a couple cases of brown 22oz bottles. Heavy bottles, less of them to fill and easy to cap. They've lasted many, many, batches now.
With any equipment/procedure a lot of it has to do with experience but even then thin bottles and lousy equipment is going to make your life much harder than it has to be.
EDIT: And I invested in a couple cases of brown 22oz bottles. Heavy bottles, less of them to fill and easy to cap. They've lasted many, many, batches now.
A general rule I live buy: having the right tools makes any task so much more bearable. Sure, you can strip wire with your teeth, change a u-joint with a BFH and a couple of sockets, or pile up some crap so you can climb up and change the lighbulb above the landing - but wire strippers, a shop press, and a stepladder are just WAY nicer. Same for beer.
AluminumGerbil
Well-Known Member
A friend loaned me a bench capper for my first brew because he said the wing cappers were crap. Me and another buddy bottled my first 5 gallon batch using both and we were both WAY faster with the wing capper and preferred it. I've done a few other batches and don't plan on upgrading any time soon. I wonder if the OP has some off sized bottles. Most of mine are New Belgium bottles and are cake to recap. Am I the only one that prefers a wing? My only complaint is the circle imprint it leaves on the top of the cap.
jkreuze
Well-Known Member
Not all bottles are created equal. The brown longnecks seem to work the best for me. I tried capping the shortneck Newcastle bottles (not screwtops) with my wing capper but the bottles would tend to pop towards or away from me unless I was really careful, so all those bottles went to recyclingland.
The Kirkland (CostCo brand) beer comes in decent bottling bottles, or if your girlfriend likes to periodically buy you the big bombers of craft beer, those work just fine, too.
But --
Bottling gave me the will to buy a second fridge, kegs, CO2 and taps, and it has been worth every cent, and then some.
The Kirkland (CostCo brand) beer comes in decent bottling bottles, or if your girlfriend likes to periodically buy you the big bombers of craft beer, those work just fine, too.
But --
Bottling gave me the will to buy a second fridge, kegs, CO2 and taps, and it has been worth every cent, and then some.
Justibone
Well-Known Member
I think a quick search through some Internet recipe databases would yield a better recipe, but here is an elementary beermaking recipe for brown sugar stout:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/extract-only-stout-191351/#post2221135
WCrane
Well-Known Member
I swiped a "antique" bench capper of Ebay for about $20 shipped. Did about 70 bottles Both 12oz and 22oz) flying solo in no time this weekend. The older just have that rustic feel.
LCTitan
Well-Known Member
I am using the cheap Black Beauty wing capper and finding it very easy to use. I usually fill about 5 bottles and then cap. So far 100% capped just fine and no broken bottles. Next batch I will get my son involved in the bottling process to speed things along a bit.
KevinW
Well-Known Member
Most of mine are New Belgium, Sam Adams, Sierra Nevada, and Deschutes. I have a few craft brew 22's and a ton of storebought 22's.
My red wing capper works great for all. I have noticed that some brands leave an indent in the cap while others don't but all my beers come out fine.
I wonder if the OP just has a defective capper? It could have been damaged since being used last! Of course this is just my opinion!
guitarsophist
Member
I use mostly the squat Sierra Nevada bottles and 22 oz. bombers that had craft brew in them, but I have also used the taller 12 oz bottles from Sam Adams, Mendocino, and others with no problem, all with my Red Baron wing capper. There is no indentation on the caps, and it is easy to work. I throw out screw tops and other non-standard bottles. Someone gave me some Pacifico bottles, but these are thin with a different kind of ridge around the top, so I don't think the wing capper could grab them. I threw those out too.
John
John
Justibone
Well-Known Member
One reason not to use a benchtop capper: you don't have a benchtop.
When we get a house someday I'll have a workbench. Until then the kitchen counter has to make do.
When we get a house someday I'll have a workbench. Until then the kitchen counter has to make do.
AluminumGerbil
Well-Known Member
The one I used was bolted to a 2x2 piece of plywood. Stabilized it quite well.
Same thing happened to me. Used an old, crappy capper and it was a nightmare. Payday is this Friday and I'm investing in a new, higher-quality capper. ><
One thing to keep in mind is that the bell in the wing cappers can be removed by unscreweing it. If the bell comes unscrewd you may not be pressing the caps down far enough. Make sure the bell is secured tightly in the capper. It should take very little pressure to properly seal a pop top bottle.
Even though I have never had a problem with my red wing capper, I still highly recommend getting a bench capper. I have an old one that a friend gave me when I first started and it's been awesome.
Look on Ebay and see all of the bench cappers for not much money and tell me it's not worth it!
Look on Ebay and see all of the bench cappers for not much money and tell me it's not worth it!
rico567
Well-Known Member
I got the red wing capper with my original kit....never had any problems with it, but I switched to grandpa's old bench capper because of arthritis in my wrists, and never looked back.
I cap all sorts of bottles, and have with both cappers- Sam Adams, Schlafly, Red Hook, Dogfish Head, Boulder Beer, Michelob, Saranac....the list goes on. No problems with any. I think you've got something pretty fundamentally wrong here.
I cap all sorts of bottles, and have with both cappers- Sam Adams, Schlafly, Red Hook, Dogfish Head, Boulder Beer, Michelob, Saranac....the list goes on. No problems with any. I think you've got something pretty fundamentally wrong here.
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