Bottle conditioning a big beer?

[Ali01]

First I need to apologize for adding too many threads
I really think I need to know things before I try anything new
I don't want things to end up in disaster
I want to brew a sweet beer
Like Scotch ale
Found a recipe
It says the fg is 1.020
Now my question is why should an ale yeast stop in that fg? Is it because it has reached the maximum abv level? Is that's the case, how can I bottle condition it? If I add sugar, it won't ferment it
The other thing I'm worried about is the beer getting infected by some wild yeast or bacteria that can ferment sugars in high abv, with an fg of 1.020, that was definitely result in bottle bombs, right?

 

[Velnerj]

What is the SG? Bigger beers tend to finish higher due to the fact that theres just more of everything in there, including more non-fermentables.

A long time ago I made a barley wine with SG of 1.100. I can't remember the FG but it was higher than usual, abv was around 11% (suppose I could figure out fg now but I'm too lazy.). It took about 6 months to finally carbonate. It was delightful after 18 months.

Higher abv beers can bottle condition, once you reach a certain range (depending on the yeast) it might take a while...

 

[GoodTruble]

Different yeast strains have different abv limits. High FG in bigger beers is a combo of yeast hitting its limit and/or just more non-fermentable sugars. Many "Scottish Ale" yeasts have somewhat low alcohol tolerance.

Most big beers will still bottle condition/carb but it may take a lot longer (weeks or months). There also specialty yeasts you can add for carbing/bottle conditioning. - I haven't used those however. In my experience, if you used a yeast strain that has abv limits anywhere close to your beer, it will carb with time.

I did a 1.15 OG beer down to 1.024 FG with Nottingham. And a 1.10 OG all the way down to 1.010 with Mangrove Jack M41. They both bottle conditioned fine.

I also suggest using one plastic bottle in the batch so you can monitor carb levels just by squeezing/feeling the plastic bottle.

And infections can lead to bottle bombs in any beer. Follow your sanitation procedures, and you should be fine. Or at least, at no greater risk with a big beer than any other beer.

 

[mac_1103]

My chocolate milk stout had a final gravity over 1.03, not because the yeast pooped out but because it has a lot of unfermentable sugars and dextrins that contribute to the gravity even though the yeast can't do anything with them. That stuff can't cause bottle bombs unless you contaminate the beer with something that can metabolize it. If the recipe says the final gravity is supposed to be 1.020 then it means that the yeast will stop at 1.020 because there's nothing left for the yeast to do. If you're suspicious of the recipe, plug it into an online calculator like this one.

 

[MaxStout]

Fermenting big beers takes longer. Make sure you are at final gravity before you bottle. I.e., take 2 or 3 gravity readings a couple days apart. If they are the same, should be ready. However, if you have a stuck fermentation, like if the beer stops fermenting at a gravity much higher than expected, be careful. It could referment in the bottles, in addition to the priming sugar you add. If the FG is stuck, re-pitch with any neutral beer yeast that can handle the final ABV and give it some more time in the FV.

Bottle conditioning will also take longer. Leave them alone for at least a few months, then try one. If it's still "green," wait a few more months, etc.

I brewed a Scottish strong ale last fall, about 9.5%. I tried a few this past spring and summer, and they weren't bad, but not great. But now, the beer is really hitting its stride. I look forward to sipping those this winter, when they are 14-15 months old. Patience is key!