I have the 120v Power Controller paired to a 2250w BoilCoil installed in a 10 gallon Spike Kettle. I recently stumbled across a Short Circuited Brewing video where Bryan used the 240v model to hold steady at 152F with very little variability in temperature. I was just wondering if anyone with the 120v model had attempted this and if so at what power level did you have it set? I'm guessing both versions would be comparable just that the 120v version would need to use a different setting due to differences in available wattage. I have been stirring every 15 minutes and taking a reading during these times and notice up to 4 degree temp losses within the 1st measurement and although I get that holding it at exactly any given temperature is necessary I would like to be close for consistency sake. I've always seen BIAB guys talking about losing no more than a degree or two during a 60 minute mash using a sleeping back or similar to insulate but that has never been my experience.
Blichmann Power Controller Holding Temps?
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RufusBrewer
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I assume you are talking about the blichmann product the is a simple up-down variable power controller. It has power in, power out and a knob, no display or temp probe.
If you are using that to maintain temps of a mash, what you are doing is inject heat into the mash to compensate for heat lost in your brewing rig. In this case, knowing what somebody else sets their controller to is of little use to you.
Another brewer's rig will have different pattern if heat loss. And different practices, stirring, pumping wort, etc.
IMO the place to start is to minimize heat loss. Insulate as much as is practical and affordable. The more you prevent heat loss, the less fixing you need to do with you heating element.
Where you have the blichmann set, how often you have it on, etc will be the experience and knowledge of trial and error.
Perhaps others can share their process of how they figured out what works for them to help you get your process sorted our.
If you are using that to maintain temps of a mash, what you are doing is inject heat into the mash to compensate for heat lost in your brewing rig. In this case, knowing what somebody else sets their controller to is of little use to you.
Another brewer's rig will have different pattern if heat loss. And different practices, stirring, pumping wort, etc.
IMO the place to start is to minimize heat loss. Insulate as much as is practical and affordable. The more you prevent heat loss, the less fixing you need to do with you heating element.
Where you have the blichmann set, how often you have it on, etc will be the experience and knowledge of trial and error.
Perhaps others can share their process of how they figured out what works for them to help you get your process sorted our.
It makes sense that variability in the brewers process and environment will change what setting is applied. I was more so looking for a general idea to use as a jumping off point to shorten the trial and error process if possible.
I forget who the op was but I did read a post that mentioned maybe we should wait 15 minutes or so for the temperature to homogenize before taking our initial reading. This got me thinking that maybe I'm also not heating to a high enough strike temp to compensate for grain temperature.
For minimizing heat loss I've two layers of reflectix and secured it to the kettle with velcro for easy removal. Maybe a third would help but I'm not sure at this point it has a high enough R value to make much difference.
I forget who the op was but I did read a post that mentioned maybe we should wait 15 minutes or so for the temperature to homogenize before taking our initial reading. This got me thinking that maybe I'm also not heating to a high enough strike temp to compensate for grain temperature.
For minimizing heat loss I've two layers of reflectix and secured it to the kettle with velcro for easy removal. Maybe a third would help but I'm not sure at this point it has a high enough R value to make much difference.
While it's possible to use a power controller to fine tune to equilibrium that lasts for short periods of time, you really would need to stay present for most of the mash to babysit it. You could take some of that stress away by using a digital thermometer in the mash that has a programmable low and high temp alarm feature.
I have considered using my itc-308 & a thermowell in the kettle lid to monitor temperature during the mash. I know I could build a PID for true control but I'm trying to get the most out of my current equipment before I go through a more significant process overhaul.
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