Blichmann BrewEasy

[IchLiebeBier]

Hi all,
I searched and searched to try to find an answer, but didn't see it. If it's been asked before, sorry.

I know the 5 gallon turnkey system comes with 7.5 gallon MT, and you can't get a 10 gallon MT with the turnkey system. BUT...if you buy it piecemeal, can you make your own BrewEasy system with a 10MT/10BK setup and get everything to work the same way?

Thanks.

 

[jackers252]

So I know this has been talked about, but I'm trying to understand why it's so hard to do five gallon batches in the 10 gallon BrewEasy. From their FAQ:

5 gallon batch in 10 gallon BrewEasy™:

When brewing smaller batches in the larger system you will encounter a thinner mash bed, which can lead to cloudier wort. We recommend at least 10 pounds of grain to avoid an overly thin mash bed. We highly recommend purchasing the 9”, BE-000159-00, to accommodate the smaller mash.

When brewing with gas, caramelization can be an issue with low volumes in the bottom kettle of the BrewEasy™. This is especially problematic with the electric BrewEasy™ as the BoilCoil™ must remain fully submerged during operation. You should always maintain a minimum volume of 5 gallons in the bottom kettle at all times. It is important to set the AutoSparge™ float to maintain this minimum volume.

The BrewMometer™ will likely not be an effective method of verifying the mash temperature as the mash bed will not reach the stem of the BrewMometer™.

This is the part I don't understand:

We highly recommend purchasing the 9”, BE-000159-00, to accommodate the smaller mash.

What is the 9" BE-000159-00 and how can it help?

 

[IchLiebeBier]

^ That's one of the reasons I don't want to step up to a 10 gallon system. I want 2 x 10gallon pots to do stronger 5 gallon brews. I currently do all grain with 10 gallon cooler and 10 gallon BK. I see no reason to go any bigger, just because they don't offer 2 x 10s in the turnkey system.

 

[jackers252]

So I know this has been talked about, but I'm trying to understand why it's so hard to do five gallon batches in the 10 gallon BrewEasy. From their FAQ:



This is the part I don't understand:


What is the 9" BE-000159-00 and how can it help?

So Brian from Great Fermentations says you can definitely do 5 gallon batches with the 10 gallon setup. The 9" BE-000159-00 is a different sparge arm. He hasn't tried the 9" arm with the 10 gallon batch but thinks it might hit. I'm planning on just swapping it out for the 5 gallon batches.

 

[IchLiebeBier]

So Brian from Great Fermentations says you can definitely do 5 gallon batches with the 10 gallon setup.

I don't disagree with that at all. But, if I were to spend that much money, I wouldn't want to have to fuss with dealing with an additional learning curve because I'm doing a smaller boil in a larger kettle.

In all honesty, that seems more like positive advertisement than the most efficient way to do a 5 gallon boil. "Go ahead and buy the bigger system. It'll work." I CAN pull a shopping cart with my truck. But I'd rather not have to.

 

[30Bones]

Thanks. I'm just tire kicking at the moment.

 

[nooloo]

So Brian from Great Fermentations says you can definitely do 5 gallon batches with the 10 gallon setup. The 9" BE-000159-00 is a different sparge arm. He hasn't tried the 9" arm with the 10 gallon batch but thinks it might hit. I'm planning on just swapping it out for the 5 gallon batches.

My first batch on the 10g was a 6g batch. I used the 9" autosparge rod and had no issues. The only thing you have to watch for is making sure you keep enough water in the MT to keep the thermometer submerged.

 

[Iansir]

I'm in a similar boat trying to decide but went with with the 5 gal system because I grabbed a used 10 gal boilermaker already . Plus want a system as compact as possible... I will brew on it in a couple weeks and report back

 

[jackers252]

I'm also leaning heavily towards the 5 gallon kit as well. I have 6 taps and brewing more isn't a bad thing

 

[hmattar]

My first batch on the 10g was a 6g batch. I used the 9" autosparge rod and had no issues. The only thing you have to watch for is making sure you keep enough water in the MT to keep the thermometer submerged.

I think in a different way. I did a 7 gallon batch to make sure the boilcoil is allways submerged.

 

[Danam404]

Hi all,
I searched and searched to try to find an answer, but didn't see it. If it's been asked before, sorry.

I know the 5 gallon turnkey system comes with 7.5 gallon MT, and you can't get a 10 gallon MT with the turnkey system. BUT...if you buy it piecemeal, can you make your own BrewEasy system with a 10MT/10BK setup and get everything to work the same way?

Thanks.

If you could find a way to replicate an adapter lid that would work with this setup, sure. Right now the only adapter lid they make that mates two of the same kettle together is the 20 gallon.

 

[IchLiebeBier]

If you could find a way to replicate an adapter lid that would work with this setup, sure. Right now the only adapter lid they make that mates two of the same kettle together is the 20 gallon.

Danam,
Thanks for the info. That's the kind of thing I was looking to find out. It looks like you could rig something up, like putting a pizza pan over the lid to set the bigger pot onto (although I'm sure their legal would say not to do it).

What about the control module? Do you have to select the pot sizes in the setup so that it factors the amounts of water and other ratios, or is it pretty independent of that?

Thanks.

 

[nooloo]

Danam,
Thanks for the info. That's the kind of thing I was looking to find out. It looks like you could rig something up, like putting a pizza pan over the lid to set the bigger pot onto (although I'm sure their legal would say not to do it).

What about the control module? Do you have to select the pot sizes in the setup so that it factors the amounts of water and other ratios, or is it pretty independent of that?

Thanks.

The control module (and I'm assuming you meant the ToP) is only concerned with the temperature of the circulating liquid and heating that liquid to the desired temperature. It doesn't factor in pot sizes or water amounts.

 

[mash-mongrel]

^ That's one of the reasons I don't want to step up to a 10 gallon system. I want 2 x 10gallon pots to do stronger 5 gallon brews. I currently do all grain with 10 gallon cooler and 10 gallon BK. I see no reason to go any bigger, just because they don't offer 2 x 10s in the turnkey system.

The 10gal setup doing 5gal high gravity beers would be the answer. I have a high gravity 10gal recipe that I had to cut back to 5 gal because the mashtun wouldn't hold all the grains for a 10 gal batch.

 

[jackers252]

Another stupid question. I plan to brew in my basement. I have a sliding window on the opposite side of the basement as my dryer. I'm planning on having a dedicated 240 gfci outlet and breaker installed beside that window, but I'm having problems getting an electrician out to help.

The ToP comes with a 12 foot extension cord already. Can I plug that into an extra Blichmann 12 foot extension cord (making total of 24 feet) until I get an electrician out to install the new breaker? Is that too much of a load for that far?

 

[mash-mongrel]

Another stupid question. I plan to brew in my basement. I have a sliding window on the opposite side of the basement as my dryer. I'm planning on having a dedicated 240 gfci outlet and breaker installed beside that window, but I'm having problems getting an electrician out to help.

The ToP comes with a 12 foot extension cord already. Can I plug that into an extra Blichmann 12 foot extension cord (making total of 24 feet) until I get an electrician out to install the new breaker? Is that too much of a load for that far?

Doing a quick Google search. The 30amp cord that comes with the coil can be doubled safety but you should check with blichmann as I am not licensed.

The gage of cord used can handle just over 30amps at 240 volts for a combined total of 7680 watts up to 50 feet long for one hour at an 80% load. The coil is 5000 watt so that's about a 65% load.

ASK BLICHMANN TO BE SAFE.

 

[Danam404]

Another stupid question. I plan to brew in my basement. I have a sliding window on the opposite side of the basement as my dryer. I'm planning on having a dedicated 240 gfci outlet and breaker installed beside that window, but I'm having problems getting an electrician out to help.

The ToP comes with a 12 foot extension cord already. Can I plug that into an extra Blichmann 12 foot extension cord (making total of 24 feet) until I get an electrician out to install the new breaker? Is that too much of a load for that far?

I run my brew easy on a 50 foot extension cord from my detached garage thru a window into my laundry room. works great. you can find a good price on extension cords on ebay, and i got an adapter to convert the twist lock plug to a dryer outlet plug from a site that sells accessories for electric cars.



Luckily I'm closing on a house in 2 weeks that has GFCI 240v and hot water access right in the garage built in... like a match made in heaven. some might call it "washer/dryer hookups".... i call it "honey we are moving the laundry room somewhere else".

 

[jackers252]

Ok, I purchased the 5 gallon, 240V kit.

I've been reading back through this thread, ordered my ph meter, setup my beersmith 2 profile but I do have a question yet. What "mash profile" do I use? I am trying to calculate how much water I need for 12 lbs of grain. Using the BIAB medium body profile, it says to add 35 quarts (8.75 gallons).

Does that seem light to anyone else? I can post my brewsmith profile if it will help.

 

[chisena]

IMO the ToP is a joke compared with competing solutions.

 

[the_mc]

Ok, I purchased the 5 gallon, 240V kit.

I've been reading back through this thread, ordered my ph meter, setup my beersmith 2 profile but I do have a question yet. What "mash profile" do I use? I am trying to calculate how much water I need for 12 lbs of grain. Using the BIAB medium body profile, it says to add 35 quarts (8.75 gallons).

Does that seem light to anyone else? I can post my brewsmith profile if it will help.

I just use the single infusion profiles. Then review the total water needed and split it by transferring the water needed to the MT as 1.25 QRT per pound of grain.

 

[SwitchbladeSquirrel]

Ok, I purchased the 5 gallon, 240V kit.

I've been reading back through this thread, ordered my ph meter, setup my beersmith 2 profile but I do have a question yet. What "mash profile" do I use? I am trying to calculate how much water I need for 12 lbs of grain. Using the BIAB medium body profile, it says to add 35 quarts (8.75 gallons).

Does that seem light to anyone else? I can post my brewsmith profile if it will help.

I have the 5 gallon 240V breweasy too. I've been using between 8.75 and 9 gallons total water each batch, grist depending, for 5.5 gallon batches.

 

[jackers252]

Thanks Squirrel and MC. I'm anxious to get rocking on this thing. I have a pretty simple ESB recipe I'm going to break it in with.

 

[nooloo]

I just use the single infusion profiles. Then review the total water needed and split it by transferring the water needed to the MT as 1.25 QRT per pound of grain.

I'm curious how that has been working for you? I have been using the BBIAB mash profiles but finding they need a bit of tweaking as my volumes into the boil kettle are coming up a bit short.

Not sure if I'm experiencing more loss to dead space in the MT or if I'm getting more absorption in the grain. A few more brews and I should have this thing dialed in.

 

[gotbags-10]

Wondering about putting a grain bag in the MT. As of now you can only take the top third of the grain bed without getting grain in your boil kettle. If I add the bag maybe I could mix the whole grain bed during mashing to squeeze a few more points of efficiency. Thoughts ?

 

[nooloo]

Wondering about putting a grain bag in the MT. As of now you can only take the top third of the grain bed without getting grain in your boil kettle. If I add the bag maybe I could mix the whole grain bed during mashing to squeeze a few more points of efficiency. Thoughts ?

Granted I only have 2 brews under my belt (both ~1.055 OG) but so far efficiency really hasn't been an issue. It has been on par with my old cooler/batch sparge system. Using a bag would be overkill IMO and not sure it would improve efficiency all that much.

 

[30Bones]

I don't get the hang up on efficiency. Granted I want to see around 70%, but if I hit my numbers I consider the brewday a win.

 

[IchLiebeBier]

Question on clarity:

I understand the concept of recirculating through the mash bed. But does this work out properly in reality?

When I do a Vorlauf with my cooler, I usually get fine grain husks at first before it clears up (I use a copper manifold now because I kept grabbing and stretching the SS braid with my mash paddle when I used a braid). After a couple of quarts, it comes out clear.

In the BrewEasy with the standard false bottom, do husks come out at first, and if so, then do the husks all get recirculated back efficiently, or do they just swirl around in the BK and you have to dip them out with a strainer?

Thanks.

 

[the_mc]

Question on clarity:

I understand the concept of recirculating through the mash bed. But does this work out properly in reality?

When I do a Vorlauf with my cooler, I usually get fine grain husks at first before it clears up (I use a copper manifold now because I kept grabbing and stretching the SS braid with my mash paddle when I used a braid). After a couple of quarts, it comes out clear.

In the BrewEasy with the standard false bottom, do husks come out at first, and if so, then do the husks all get recirculated back efficiently, or do they just swirl around in the BK and you have to dip them out with a strainer?

Thanks.

If you let the grain bed settle for 10 minutes before recirculating, no husks get through to the BK. Nice and clear.

 

[the_mc]

I'm curious how that has been working for you? I have been using the BBIAB mash profiles but finding they need a bit of tweaking as my volumes into the boil kettle are coming up a bit short.

Not sure if I'm experiencing more loss to dead space in the MT or if I'm getting more absorption in the grain. A few more brews and I should have this thing dialed in.

It has been working great for me. Pretty good efficiency...between 75 and 80%. Water volumes have been right on target.

 

[jackers252]

Prince we are recirculating during the mash, would longer mash times increase efficiency points?

 

[the_mc]

Prince we are recirculating during the mash, would longer mash times increase efficiency points?

It would be an interesting test. I know that most BIAB info I have read suggests a 90 minute mash for better efficiency.

 

[BierHausPR]

It would be an interesting test. I know that most BIAB info I have read suggests a 90 minute mash for better efficiency.

Almost certainly. I did a 90 min mash at 146F, and the mash efficiency was about 82% if I remember correctly.

Stirred the upper 3rd of the mash every 15 mins.

 

[jackers252]

Wow, good results, Bier.

So you just mashed longer? Do you think there is a risk of extracting tannins with longer mashes? What is your opinion of just raising it to the "sparge" temp for longer than the recommended 10 minutes? That would stop the conversion process.

 

[the_mc]

Wow, good results, Bier.

So you just mashed longer? Do you think there is a risk of extracting tannins with longer mashes? What is your opinion of just raising it to the "sparge" temp for longer than the recommended 10 minutes? That would stop the conversion process.

It is recommended by many BIABer's to mash for 90 minutes with no adverse affects such as tannins.

 

[jackers252]

Great, thanks for the tip. I don't know much about BIAB so this is like a new learning experience for me.

I'm loving how small of a footprint the Breweasy is.

 

[BierHausPR]

I always mash 90 min for dry saisons, and tannins are a problem at high temps and over-sparges.

Brewed a 13 gal Imperial Smoked Stout yesterday. Target OG was 1.085 and measured was 1.083. Got 65% efficiency, but the grist was huge (48lbs), and only mashed for 60 min at 152F. Mash out at 168F for 15min.

Did a 75min boil and my boiloff was less than I expected, but the OG was pretty good. I always have problems with the boiloff because at sea level with an ambient temp of 86F, if I don't set the cycle to control de boil, I miss the target post-boil volume.

 

[Danam404]

It is recommended by many BIABer's to mash for 90 minutes with no adverse affects such as tannins.

I know guys who mash overnight with no ill effects.. 90 minutes will certainly not hurt, and i would tend to agree that it helps.

Glad to see people are getting a handle on efficiency!

 

[silhouette]

I was assembling my brew easy this weekend. I was wondering where folks used the PTFE thread tape. Far as i could tell the directions only specified on the out of the pump and male end of the ball valve (attached to the pump).

Should i use the tape
- on the quick connects for kettle?
- on the "in" for the pump?
- on the temperature sensor?

Thanks!

 

[BierHausPR]

Wherever the Blich QDs have a red O-rings, and the Temp sensor screws into the TOP, won't need thread tape. The water pump inlet and outlet may need them if its NPT thread.

 

[BierHausPR]

Danam404,

Where'd you snatch the sweet Heat resistant gloves you use on the vid?? Link me up to Amazon!!

Thanx!