Beefing up exisiting Auber Plug and Play Controller?

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Vincanity

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So a few years back I purchased this plug and play controller from Auberins to control my mash and even do step mashes. Its dual voltage 120-240 with a max current of 15A and maximum load power of 1800W @ 120V/2400W @ 240. This worked great to control the mash with a 3500w element on 220V. After the mash I would unplug the element from the controller and use a control voltage regulator speed controller I built to control the boil. This was all back when I was stationed in Germany and the combination of the two worked flawlessly for 3 years no issues.

I would like to continue using this but beef it up a little more if possible. I opened it up out of curiosity and it seemed fairly simple inside, there's a board with quite a few wires plugged into it and the little quick connector clasps coming off the terminals from the input and output. My question is, would I be able to swap the input and output plugs off the back with more common twist lock or beefier plugs? I would re-do the back plate that's not an issue. Would I have to redo the wiring to a thicker gauge? I finally setup 220v in the garage and I'm wanting to brew but use what I currently have with a few modifications if possible. My goal is to be able to run this 3500W element to control the mash at mash temps, I would then use my boil control for the boil. Thanks!
 

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So I went ahead and pulled out the C13 input connector, its says 10 amp 250V on it and has a fuse on the inside. I have some neutrik powercon connectors from when I was going to mod my kettles with these for ease of use. My question is, can I swap the current input with the powercon? The powercon is rated 20 amp at 250 but has no fuse.
 

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So I went ahead and pulled out the C13 input connector, its says 10 amp 250V on it and has a fuse on the inside. I have some neutrik powercon connectors from when I was going to mod my kettles with these for ease of use. My question is, can I swap the current input with the powercon? The powercon is rated 20 amp at 250 but has no fuse.
careful with those neutrik powercon connectors... I used 2 for years with no issues with 4500w elements (17-18 amp) but when I stepped my bk element up to 5500w I fried both of the plugs within 2 brew sessions (plugged the bk into HLT plug after I melted the BK plug)

I use these now and they work fantastic... dont even get warm.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-Water...167866?hash=item28024b18fa:g:rYkAAOSwMmBVjBgj
you can just wire an inline fuse with them.

I service hp printers that use those c13 plugs with the fuse inside and have had more than one fail because the fuses contacts arch out and burn from the current and they arent even pulling near the 10a..
 
Thanks for the heads up @augiedoggy. So basically since I'm currently running a 3500w element I should be fine with the neutrik powercon connector especially since i wont be using the powercon connection during the boil, will only be using the controller at mash temps.. I do need to add an inline fuse though? I'll have to do some more research on that, I was planning on just soldering the powercon to the proper cables.
 
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Thanks for the heads up @augiedoggy. So basically since I'm currently running a 3500w element I should be fine with the neutrik powercon connector especially since i wont be using the powercon connection during the boil, will only be using the controller at mash temps.. I do need to add an inline fuse though? I'll have to do some more research on that, I was planning on just soldering the powercon to the proper cables.
Yes you should be fine. I would put an inline fuse in myself for safety. otherwise you could have a potential fire hazzard if the element draws more than the 20a or so but not enough to trip the 30a? main breaker... I have my 5500w and 4500w elements on 25a and 20a fuses in my panel and my 1800w rims element on 10a fuses... some people get carried away with breakers for this which is great if you have the money to spend but fuses will be way more compact and do the job just fine. the nice thing about a double pole breaker is it will shut off both legs of power if theres and issue where 2 fuses might not both blow leaving a brown out type power condition which is still a hazard from what I understand.
 

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