American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Brewed this today!
My first AG!!
Can't thank you enough Ed for all
Of the awesome recipes you have provided for all of us to use!
:mug::

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I accidentally got a full pound of crystal 10L, which is now mixed in with my 2 pounds of vienna. Should I take out a half pound of the mix or maybe of the 2row to make up for it? Or just go with the extra half pound crystal? I'm sure it'll be fine either way, but this is the first time im using Nottingham yeast (been using 1056, as its the closest I could find), and I wanted to try to get as close to the original as possible.
 
I accidentally got a full pound of crystal 10L, which is now mixed in with my 2 pounds of vienna. Should I take out a half pound of the mix or maybe of the 2row to make up for it? Or just go with the extra half pound crystal? I'm sure it'll be fine either way, but this is the first time im using Nottingham yeast (been using 1056, as its the closest I could find), and I wanted to try to get as close to the original as possible.

IMHO, Go for it! Then make a batch with the original and compare it.
In the end you will have beer to drink.
:tank:
 
Hey all ive got a quick question for ya....
So i pitched the Nottingham yeast (Dry)
and within the first 24 hours it was very active...
i'm talking airlock bubbling 3-4 bubbles every 1-2 seconds
now (day 2) it is only bubbling about every 15 seconds..
should i be concerned????
pitch more yeast????
This is my first homebrew by myself and am a little worried.
 
Labratbrew said:
Hey all ive got a quick question for ya....
So i pitched the Nottingham yeast (Dry)
and within the first 24 hours it was very active...
i'm talking airlock bubbling 3-4 bubbles every 1-2 seconds
now (day 2) it is only bubbling about every 15 seconds..
should i be concerned????
pitch more yeast????
This is my first homebrew by myself and am a little worried.

The beer will be just fine. Things will probably stay that way (slow bubbling) for maybe a day or two more, and then appear to stop completely. However things are still moving along nicely. Do yourself a favor and don't touch it for at least 2 weeks.
 
Pdeezy said:
The beer will be just fine. Things will probably stay that way (slow bubbling) for maybe a day or two more, and then appear to stop completely. However things are still moving along nicely. Do yourself a favor and don't touch it for at least 2 weeks.

Will do. Do you think cold crashing (7days) afterwards then keg?
 
Will do. Do you think cold crashing (7days) afterwards then keg?

I personally do not cold crash, I have decent success using whirlfloc, and a 3 week primary. However, I think the consensus is that 3 days or so of a cold crash is enough.

Someone with more experience on CC want to chime in?
 
Labratbrew said:
Will do. Do you think cold crashing (7days) afterwards then keg?

As Pdeezy said, I don't think a cold crash is really needed as it gets it while its carbing up in the keg anyway. I just do 3-4 weeks in primary and then keg slow and low.
 
I thought cold crashing was all hype until I did it for 3 days made a huge difference. The trub was super compact at the bottom and the beer (while not crystal clear since I don't use any finnings) is much clearer then any of my previous brews have been. I am currently cold crashing a barleywine probably for longer since I entering my first competition with it.
 
Ply318ci said:
I thought cold crashing was all hype until I did it for 3 days made a huge difference. The trub was super compact at the bottom and the beer (while not crystal clear since I don't use any finnings) is much clearer then any of my previous brews have been. I am currently cold crashing a barleywine probably for longer since I entering my first competition with it.

A long primary and some Irish moss works great for me. Is there any reason you don't use finnings? Kegging also help clarity for me are you bottling?

Just curious...
 
I'm having a tough time searching this thread for 'fly sparging'. Apparently it returns all hits on 'sparging', even without 'fly'.

So, this being my first AG batch, and first time testing out my new stand/equipment, should I adjust anything for fly sparging? I have a 10 gallon igloo MLT, with a 2 tier single pump.

This is also my first time using Beersmith... thoroughly confused setting up a mash profile.

Thanks
 
evandena said:
I'm having a tough time searching this thread for 'fly sparging'. Apparently it returns all hits on 'sparging', even without 'fly'.

So, this being my first AG batch, and first time testing out my new stand/equipment, should I adjust anything for fly sparging? I have a 10 gallon igloo MLT, with a 2 tier single pump.

This is also my first time using Beersmith... thoroughly confused setting up a mash profile.

Thanks

I second that...
I fly sparge and I use a 10 gallon rubbermaid container for mlt and hlt....
 
Labratbrew said:
I second that...
I fly sparge and I use a 10 gallon rubbermaid container for mlt and hlt....

Hmmm after some research I think I am going to try a batch sparge for my first AG because I have a round cooler with a SS braid. I'll need a FB if I want to fly sparge.
 
Hmmm after some research I think I am going to try a batch sparge for my first AG because I have a round cooler with a SS braid. I'll need a FB if I want to fly sparge.

I use a $2.00 shower head in my 10 gal cooler. It's called a Sparge-O-Matic.
Works great with a pump. I can clear the wort before transfer very easy.
:ban:

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Nice.
Do loose any heat when mashing?

I pre warm my cooler with the water from my HLT as it comes up to temp.
About 10 minutes works well. I use a sealed indoor/outdoor probe to monitor the temperature in the closed cooler.
After I’m sure I don’t have any dry spots in the grain I leave it closed. I have never had a problem with efficiency this way and get high SG from my grain. I did take a drill and made the holes larger. Works great and I can keep the sparge level just above the grain.
:mug:
 
My first time ever brewing beer, all on my DIY two tier. Im hooked! Biggest thing I learned, wort needs to be cool before taking gravity. I thought I had WAY too much water to get my preboil gravity readings, but I taking a reading in 180 degree wort won't work. Can't wait to try it!


image-2169348885.jpg


Here's a pic of the action. My next batch will be smoother.
 
I was brewing a batch of MysticMead's Raging Red Irish Red Ale, and I cracked open one of my EdWort's Haus Pale Ales and saw this:

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Yey clear beer.
 
Anybody had any attenuation issues with this? After 3 weeks fermenting with a starter, and 12 days primed all at 65, I have it in the cooler at 38 on gas for 4 days now and it is cloudy and tastes like it hasn't quite finished (very malty). I will check gravity after a week if it still tastes the same. I'm hoping it's just green but I'm getting ansy.

Edit: what am I saying? I used nottingham yeast with no starter and no hydration. I think I aerated the next morning with my drill. It took off after about 24 hours and went non stop for about 5 to 7 days.
 
Anybody had any attenuation issues with this? After 3 weeks fermenting with a starter, and 12 days primed all at 65, I have it in the cooler at 38 on gas for 4 days now and it is cloudy and tastes like it hasn't quite finished (very malty). I will check gravity after a week if it still tastes the same. I'm hoping it's just green but I'm getting ansy.

Nope, mine hit FG after less than a week. OG 1.050 pitched a yeast starter on 3/18/12 and it was 1.008 by 3/25/12.

What was your SG reading before you kegged?
 
Nope, mine hit FG after less than a week. OG 1.050 pitched a yeast starter on 3/18/12 and it was 1.008 by 3/25/12.

What was your SG reading before you kegged?

Didn't measure. I'll check it later this afternoon.
 
Anybody had any attenuation issues with this? After 3 weeks fermenting with a starter, and 12 days primed all at 65, I have it in the cooler at 38 on gas for 4 days now and it is cloudy and tastes like it hasn't quite finished (very malty). I will check gravity after a week if it still tastes the same. I'm hoping it's just green but I'm getting ansy.

I always make this with re-hydrated S-05 and it always gets down to about 1.010.
 
I Brewed this on 3/25.
OG was 1.045
FG is 1.005
To me it tastes kind of dilute
cold crashing now and will keg in 2-3 days..
anyone experience the same issue and it taste better later?
 
mrcastellino said:
Here is my Bee Cave Haus Pale...quite quaffable indeed :mug:

Very nice looking. How long did you ferment for & how long in the keg before you poured that?

Mine is rather cloudy after a 10 day ferment and another week in the keg. It tastes great, but still a bit green and has very little head & head retention..., possibly a side effect of mashing too low at 149F?
 
Second AG batch (second brew, ever), and I got 87%? Can this be right?
Preboil gravity: 1048
OG: 1063

Should I add some water to the carboy?
 
I followed the recipe spot on (grain bill, IBUs, mashed @ 152 etc.) but did a 3 week primary ferment @ 67 (no secondary) with a WLP001 yeast slurry from a local microbrewery (OG 1.052, FG 1.011).
For the most part I always do 3 week primarys for my brews even though in some cases its overkill. It certainly might not be necessary for this brew but i tend to err on the side of caution.

After the three weeks i cold crash for a few days at 33 and the transfer to the keg. The picture was taken from 2 weeks (~ 5 weeks in total) conditioning in the keg. While its good now (and crystal clear) i definetly think its still slightly on the green side and will really hit its stride after a few more weeks. Maybe im picky but i rather be patient and wait it out until shes in her prime :D

If its still cloudy ...just wait it out. I believe Edwort mentioned he doesnt even touch his until its been 8 weeks in the keg. Not only will the beer drop clear it will be that much tastier!

Cheers :mug:
 
I have made this brew (or close variants) about 10 times now. I have always had crystal clear beer. And by crystal, I mean as clear as a bell. I ferment for two weeks in the primary, cold crash for three days, and keg with gelatin. After the first few pints, it's clear. I also tried fermenting this beer at lager temps and then lagering it for a month to see what difference it would make. I didn't notice any drastic changes, but I do prefer the "regular" fermentation with a three day cold crash.
 
mrcastellino said:
If its still cloudy ...just wait it out. I believe Edwort mentioned he doesnt even touch his until its been 8 weeks in the keg. Not only will the beer drop clear it will be that much tastier!

Cheers :mug:

I checked my notes and it seems I was extremely over anxious ;) I brewed on 3/17/12 and pitched a 1L starter of washed notty
on 3/18/12. Verified FG on 3/25/12 and kegged it on 3/26/12, so it's had just under 2 weeks in the keg.

Couple that with using pellet hops without a hop spider and not using a fining agent in the boil and I'll be surprised if it ever really drops clear. Since it was my first AG brew and I don't have an established pipeline to allow it to age properly I jumped the gun.

Next time I plan to:

A) leave it in primary for at least 14 days to allow the yeast to finish cleaning up.
B) use whirlfloc in the boil unless I plan on washing the yeast from that batch, in which case I'll use gelatin at kegging.
C) force carb and then disconnect and let it age in the fridge.
 
I managed to go grain to glass with this in a week. Hit all the measurements right on, pitched a 1L starter of SD SuperYeast WLP090, hit 1.009 day 5, and cold crashed for two days before kegging. Tastes great but I did get cold break into the fermenter so there is a bit of chill haze @ dispensing temp (46).

In case anyone was wondering why I pushed it so fast...I was out of beer! I've never done something that fast before and it's nice to know I can get some great beer so quick.
 
Just did this for my first all-grain batch. 10 gal orange cooler with stainless false bottom. This rig did great and I think this will turn out great. Weather has been all over the place lately so I will probably have to be shuttling this upstairs and down to keep the temp constant.
 
Just tried mine after 2 weeks in primary and then 3 days in kegs. It's good now. I had to push it because the house is getting to 80 degrees during the day. It's a good thing I brewed 10 gallons so that it will last long enough to compare later. Pretty hazy but thats my doing. I will throw some more hops in next time for fun Thanks Ed.
 
furner said:
Just did this for my first all-grain batch. 10 gal orange cooler with stainless false bottom. This rig did great and I think this will turn out great. Weather has been all over the place lately so I will probably have to be shuttling this upstairs and down to keep the temp constant.

Put it in a bin or bucket of water to help regulate the temp changes.
 
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